Body lift time

[Jon Brown]

Finally got a garage so time to fix the car, been sat since January when the ball went through the clutch fork.



I knew the outriggers were shot so completed a 2” inch this weekend and surprisingly not that difficult to do.

Usual rot!




Bit scary when the seat belt reel mounts were only attached by some previous body sealant


I’ve now stripped the front suspension to replace a rotten and have the shocks to send back to gaz to rebuild.

Just waiting for the outrigger kit and replacement wishbones to arrive, no powered coat for this home build.

Whilst I’ve got the body raised up a bit any tips for tackling the diff bushes, looks like an evil job?

[Jon Brown]

Also, anyone know what paint is used under the wheel arches?

[Sardonicus]

Check your front upper wishbone mounts/chassis lugs as they join the top tubes beneath the manifold if your outriggers are this bad I would check the rest of the chassis carefully, all the best with your project

[phazed]

Hi Jon. Good work!

I have my outrigger kit and will do mine in a couple of weeks.

I’m not lifting the body but doing it in place.

How about making up some strengthening plates for the seats?

[Steve_D]

Sardonicus said:

Check your front upper wishbone mounts/chassis lugs as they join the top tubes beneath the manifold if your outriggers are this bad I would check the rest of the chassis carefully, all the best with your project

Also the side face of the lower chassis rail where the front outrigger tube joins.

Steve

[Sardonicus]

Steve_D said:

Sardonicus said:

Check your front upper wishbone mounts/chassis lugs as they join the top tubes beneath the manifold if your outriggers are this bad I would check the rest of the chassis carefully, all the best with your project

Also the side face of the lower chassis rail where the front outrigger tube joins.

Steve

Agreed this was an extreme example but just for ref they can go further than just outrigger corrosion, just may save the OP'er grief later on

[Jon Brown]

Amazingly the main chassis is very good, probably where oil has been leaking and protected quite well, it’s a silver chassis and these tend to be a bit better from memory.

Just a few suspension arms to change and tidy up and the ball joints to change.

Definitely recommend doing a partial lift, makes access much easier. Seriously missing the car and it’s supposed to be my wedding car for October so the sooner it’s done the better

[Jon Brown]

phazed said:

Hi Jon. Good work!

I have my outrigger kit and will do mine in a couple of weeks.

I’m not lifting the body but doing it in place.

How about making up some strengthening plates for the seats?

Thought it was about time I got round to it, couldn’t do it outside though.

I hadn’t even thought about seat mounts, might add that on the list

[Sardonicus]

Jon Brown said:

Amazingly the main chassis is very good, probably where oil has been leaking and protected quite well, it’s a silver chassis and these tend to be a bit better from memory.

Just a few suspension arms to change and tidy up and the ball joints to change.

Thats good news

[BIG DUNC]

Jon Brown said:

Amazingly the main chassis is very good, probably where oil has been leaking and protected quite well, it’s a silver chassis and these tend to be a bit better from memory.

Just a few suspension arms to change and tidy up and the ball joints to change.

Definitely recommend doing a partial lift, makes access much easier. Seriously missing the car and it’s supposed to be my wedding car for October so the sooner it’s done the better

Why only a partial lift? You have done the difficult stuff undoing everything and cutting off the old chassis bolts. For hardly any more work you could have it right off and much much better access for everything.

[LongBaz]

This was during the trial fitting, but you get the drift.

Edited by LongBaz on Monday 23 July 19:24

[Engineer1949]

totally agree with dunk why not get it right off allways something lurking including rusted chassis rails that look good but powder coat has held up and the rail is rusted from within, seems false economy to go that far and not go the extra mile body off shotblast the whole thing recoat, rebuild good for 30 years with modern coatings.


john

[Jon Brown]

Engineer1949 said:

totally agree with dunk why not get it right off allways something lurking including rusted chassis rails that look good but powder coat has held up and the rail is rusted from within, seems false economy to go that far and not go the extra mile body off shotblast the whole thing recoat, rebuild good for 30 years with modern coatings.


john

I agree, it may seem mad but I want to use the car this year and if I did the complete body off and strip down it would take months for me to complete all of that and I have other priorities at the moment.

This should hopefully be complete in a couple of weeks and can enjoy the car properly for the first time in at least a year.

[motul1974]

A full body is a 'great idea'......but can go on much longer than originally intended and you miss out on all this great weather!

[Jon Brown]

Managed to get the knackered clutch fork out, quite a heafty hole



Definitely need small hands, had to unscrew the pivot bolt whilst the clutch arm was still connected. Those that have tried might know what I’m on about.

Just need some grease and fingers crossed I can get the new one in, don’t want to have to take the gear box out if avoidable.

[Sardonicus]

Jon Brown said:

Managed to get the knackered clutch fork out, quite a heafty hole



Definitely need small hands, had to unscrew the pivot bolt whilst the clutch arm was still connected. Those that have tried might know what I’m on about.

Just need some grease and fingers crossed I can get the new one in, don’t want to have to take the gear box out if avoidable.

Getting those 2 little steel blocks to slide into the release carrier will be a PITA but all doable

[Tobs]

Sardonicus said:

etting those 2 little steel blocks to slide into the release carrier will be a PITA but all doable

Yeah... replaced the fork on mine about 8 years ago, but can still remember spending about 3 hrs under the car trying to get the blocks to slide in! Managed it in the end, but did reach the point at some stage of thinking it wasn't possible!

[Sardonicus]

Tobs said:

Sardonicus said:

etting those 2 little steel blocks to slide into the release carrier will be a PITA but all doable

Yeah... replaced the fork on mine about 8 years ago, but can still remember spending about 3 hrs under the car trying to get the blocks to slide in! Managed it in the end, but did reach the point at some stage of thinking it wasn't possible!

Theres a man that knows yes I should of said a PITA if doing whilst gearbox is still fitted to engine and in vehicle when g/box is out its easy

[Steve_D]

Sardonicus said:

......... when g/box is out its easy

Can still be a pain even with the 'box sitting in front of you.

Steve

[Jon Brown]

The clutch fork was a pain in the backside but managed to get it in and slightly easier than I thought, again my long thin hands made it an easier task.

All the rot has been cut out and new metal welded in, no need to cut any fibreglass but some repairs are needed from previous hack jobs (not mine).

Just some tidying and painting to go





My shocks have returned from gaz after a rebuild as at least one was leaking. Just got to finish putting the front suspension back together with the new lower arms and then it’s radiator and fuel tank after the body has been dropped down and bolt on.

Not the easiet jobs to have done but rewarding...hopefully back on the road in a few weeks time