Fuel Hose

Author
Discussion

Belle427

8,969 posts

233 months

Wednesday 22nd August 2018
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I used the gates stuff i linked to for the lp side of the pump but if i have to do it again id probably use the cohline stuff.

dhutch

14,388 posts

197 months

Wednesday 22nd August 2018
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Belle427 said:
I used the gates stuff i linked to for the lp side of the pump but if i have to do it again id probably use the cohline stuff.
Any reason for that?

Belle427

8,969 posts

233 months

Wednesday 22nd August 2018
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dhutch said:
Any reason for that?
Not really, just being over the top i suppose!


sparkythecat

7,903 posts

255 months

Sunday 14th October 2018
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lancepar said:
I've added a couple of notes from when I was fidding with my hose, the low pressure side of the pump that is.

After fitting the tank and to adjust the length of hose from the outlet to the solid humped back pipe over the suspension, nice one TVR, I found removing the pump to chassis mountings and moving the pump forwards made life easier than removing the tank again.



To seal the two holes, carbon cannister one as well, on the rear bulkhead I made a thin soft rubber cover which will be stuck in place with PolyAdhesiveSealant then a small bead of the stuff around the fuel pipe and split. Same as TVR did but neater in my opinion.




Maybe too late for you Paul but may be of use to others.

cool
I've taken my fuel tank out recently. Rather than a neat round bulkhead hole with a rubber cover glued on, I found a larger, vaguely oval hole that had probably been shaped by a very angry man with a blunt padsaw then sealed with a good half pound of silicone sealant.



lancepar

1,020 posts

172 months

Monday 15th October 2018
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thumbup

Haha, that's how they left the factory O.E. fitting Polyurethane Adhesive Sealant, also known as Sikaflex, Tiger seal etc,you will find it used everywhere, bugger to remove.

Suprised TVR didn't include a tube in the tool kit.

The seal I made will also cover the redundant Carbon Cannister hose hole, still not glued on, undecided whether to shorten the humpback pipe a tad.

cool:

Loubaruch

1,172 posts

198 months

Monday 15th October 2018
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sparkythecat said:
I've taken my fuel tank out recently. Rather than a neat round bulkhead hole with a rubber cover glued on, I found a larger, vaguely oval hole that had probably been shaped by a very angry man with a blunt padsaw then sealed with a good half pound of silicone sealant.
Have you checked that the steel humped fuel connector is not being hit by the suspension arm? It looks a bit close in your pic!

http://www.bertram-hill.com/replacing-the-fuel-lin...

lancepar

1,020 posts

172 months

Monday 15th October 2018
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Loubaruch said:
Have you checked that the steel humped fuel connector is not being hit by the suspension arm? It looks a bit close in your pic!

http://www.bertram-hill.com/replacing-the-fuel-lin...
Yes it is close on mine (lancepar) but there is clearance with the car on its wheels.
I pointed it out to the PO when he came visiting the other day and he said it was like that when he dismantled it.

Before re-piping I read bertram's mods and I may modify it as he suggests by shortening, if it keeps bugging me when I look at it that is.hehe

Will be easy enough.

cool


Loubaruch

1,172 posts

198 months

Monday 15th October 2018
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Before cutting the steel tube take the car for a run and put some grease on the suspension arm you will then see if it touches when the spring is compressed. May save you a job!

Steve_D

13,747 posts

258 months

Monday 15th October 2018
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Being so close to the suspension pivot point the arm moves very little. If you shorten the hump tube you will loose the flare which helps keep the hose on. Even if it does touch it will only be under suspension compression and will do nothing more than press against it so is never going to wear it away.

Steve

lancepar

1,020 posts

172 months

Tuesday 16th October 2018
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Steve_D said:
Being so close to the suspension pivot point the arm moves very little. If you shorten the hump tube you will loose the flare which helps keep the hose on. Even if it does touch it will only be under suspension compression and will do nothing more than press against it so is never going to wear it away.

Steve
That's right I had forgot that.
Cheers
cool

Loubaruch

1,172 posts

198 months

Wednesday 17th October 2018
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Steve_D said:
Being so close to the suspension pivot point the arm moves very little. If you shorten the hump tube you will loose the flare which helps keep the hose on. Even if it does touch it will only be under suspension compression and will do nothing more than press against it so is never going to wear it away.

Steve
Fair comment but I would sooner lose the flare and add another fuel clip than having the suspension bash the fuel supply however minor the collisions

dhutch

14,388 posts

197 months

Wednesday 17th October 2018
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Re-flare? Some sort of barb/flare is fairly important.

Steve_D

13,747 posts

258 months

Wednesday 17th October 2018
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Flare would be ideal but in this position less important as the hose/assembly cannot come off being trapped between the tank and the pump both of which are fixed position. I doubt you will get another hose clip in there.

Steve

lancepar

1,020 posts

172 months

Wednesday 17th October 2018
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rolleyes

There be no flare on the tank outlet stub, just a straight pipe.



cool