Secured my first TVR - Here come the questions!
Discussion
thanks all for your advice and words.
I think you're right, I've bought into the TVR Dream, warts and all. I keep telling myself that I did buy this as a project. Sure, it might be slightly more of a project than expected but that's ok. Unfortunately body lifts would have to be done by someone else as I don't yet have the facilities, so it may be expensive, but if I can hire a lift and some space then I can probably do it myself.
Plus this car has some nice parts on it already, and I think it would restore to a nice level. I plan to make it as close to mint as possible over the years, I'll just have to pad the wallet out a little more to get going!
I think you're right, I've bought into the TVR Dream, warts and all. I keep telling myself that I did buy this as a project. Sure, it might be slightly more of a project than expected but that's ok. Unfortunately body lifts would have to be done by someone else as I don't yet have the facilities, so it may be expensive, but if I can hire a lift and some space then I can probably do it myself.
Plus this car has some nice parts on it already, and I think it would restore to a nice level. I plan to make it as close to mint as possible over the years, I'll just have to pad the wallet out a little more to get going!
Anything below 10k is likely to be an ongoing project/ resto in some way or other so not out of the ordinary. Mostly things can be done as a rolling resto too so you can keep driving it as you go.;)
Perversely the 400 is often laundered as the lessor of these cars but some 4.0 fly and not only that the mechanicals may well have had much less abuse as the 500 especially has enough torque to pull most things out of alignment
joke 
Anyway you must be buzzin and I for one don’t want to detract from the fact you are now a TVR Owner with much fun on your hands.
Perversely the 400 is often laundered as the lessor of these cars but some 4.0 fly and not only that the mechanicals may well have had much less abuse as the 500 especially has enough torque to pull most things out of alignment
joke Anyway you must be buzzin and I for one don’t want to detract from the fact you are now a TVR Owner with much fun on your hands.
I have been following Chims for sale and was watching your new one! https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1044216
1. Speedo - either the sensor on the diff or you will need to send it off to Speedy Cables for repair (approx 6 week turnaround). You have a 3 month RAC Warranty apparently which is a dealer's way of trying to get round the Consumer Rights Act 2015. Up to you if you wish to try that route or the selling dealer.
2. Yes, targa panels are carbon fibre.
3. Access to the window is via the speaker. Then either 2 or 3 10mm nuts hold on the card - one is more or less behind the cig lighter. You need a long arm to reach the one farthest away! The rubber sheet is water protection. Use electrical contact cleaner on all connectors as you come across them.
4. All the seals are available from TVR Parts Online or Powers Performance.
5. If you search on here there are many recommendations for new hoods. Best way if you want it 'mint'.
6. The clunk may be the top diff bush (of 3) which is known to wear. A pig of a job but the bushes are cheap from the above companies. Under the car is a stainless sheet held by 17mm bolts. The exhaust is bolted to this and rubber insulators are prone to oil contamination and collapse. Cheap and easy fix.
7. Secondhand parts can be had from TVR Glen in Northumberland. Take care that you know what you are getting!!!
8. As said, gauges and senders are not very accurate and often the sender is mismatched with the gauge. Check TVR Parts Online and read the descriptions of them so you know which is correct. Worth buying/borrowing a good accurate oil pressure gauge and fitting directly to the oil pump to get a proper reading. There are dozens of posts about which oil is the best so up to you which you prefer. Mobil 1 at 0/40 or similar is way too thin IMHO.
9. You can have the outriggers replaced without lifting the body. In the link follow Phazed's method of doing it. https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
10. Enjoy
1. Speedo - either the sensor on the diff or you will need to send it off to Speedy Cables for repair (approx 6 week turnaround). You have a 3 month RAC Warranty apparently which is a dealer's way of trying to get round the Consumer Rights Act 2015. Up to you if you wish to try that route or the selling dealer.
2. Yes, targa panels are carbon fibre.
3. Access to the window is via the speaker. Then either 2 or 3 10mm nuts hold on the card - one is more or less behind the cig lighter. You need a long arm to reach the one farthest away! The rubber sheet is water protection. Use electrical contact cleaner on all connectors as you come across them.
4. All the seals are available from TVR Parts Online or Powers Performance.
5. If you search on here there are many recommendations for new hoods. Best way if you want it 'mint'.
6. The clunk may be the top diff bush (of 3) which is known to wear. A pig of a job but the bushes are cheap from the above companies. Under the car is a stainless sheet held by 17mm bolts. The exhaust is bolted to this and rubber insulators are prone to oil contamination and collapse. Cheap and easy fix.
7. Secondhand parts can be had from TVR Glen in Northumberland. Take care that you know what you are getting!!!
8. As said, gauges and senders are not very accurate and often the sender is mismatched with the gauge. Check TVR Parts Online and read the descriptions of them so you know which is correct. Worth buying/borrowing a good accurate oil pressure gauge and fitting directly to the oil pump to get a proper reading. There are dozens of posts about which oil is the best so up to you which you prefer. Mobil 1 at 0/40 or similar is way too thin IMHO.
9. You can have the outriggers replaced without lifting the body. In the link follow Phazed's method of doing it. https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
10. Enjoy
Your new car is mentioned in this ongoing thread. There is a picture on page 2 by Scrumpyjack.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
The dealer has responded as well.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
The dealer has responded as well.
ianwayne said:
What you think is the hood coming away at the sides may just be the Velcro sections coming away that the hood inside edges stick to in the up position. A common thing.
I wonder if the OP means the bottom front couple of inches of the rear section that aren't attached to anything and tuck into the rubber seal behind the window?I thought my hood was shagged when I bought the car and saw that. However the replacement rear section I had made is exactly the same, and eventually I worked out that the loose bit is there just to take the strain off the fabric when you fold the rear section back.
I have no idea if all the hoods are made like mine though.
Edited to add, my explanation isn't the clearest, so I'll post a photo up later today........
You have a point. Looking again at the photos, the sides have had 3 studs attached (a lá 1960s cars) so it may be what you suggest.
There's what looks like an additional aerial base attached to the top of the rear section too. Only the first 12 images are previewed but if you click on the main photo and scroll to the right, there are actually 20! Photo no 16 shows it.
https://www.classicandsportscar.com/classifieds/cl...
There's what looks like an additional aerial base attached to the top of the rear section too. Only the first 12 images are previewed but if you click on the main photo and scroll to the right, there are actually 20! Photo no 16 shows it.
https://www.classicandsportscar.com/classifieds/cl...
yeah I'll have to get a picture to show what I mean about the hood, I'm sure it's fixable but as I'm new I don't know what is right and what isn't.
and yes there is an aerial added to the roof. I don't like this, and will remove it by probably getting a new hood completely when I come to that part of the fix up
and yes there is an aerial added to the roof. I don't like this, and will remove it by probably getting a new hood completely when I come to that part of the fix up
Technoholic said:
Yes that could be great. But yeah wrong Hazlemere! I could try to work out how and when I can get there though!
I’d drive half the length of the country to get Phazed advice on the chassis,, That’s the best offer you’ll get all day if not all week. In fact I have driven half the length of the country for Peters advice, clutch and diff replaced too, he’s pretty damn good on these cars
Belle427 said:
What sort of money are we talking for a chassis refurb using all the original parts?
How longs a piece of string. Depends who does the work and how much chassis restoration needs to take place.
You’ll need to be a skilled metal worker/ welder/ mechanic to do it all yourself but it has been done.
That way you could do it for less than the price of a short holiday
but it will take or could take many hours Labour which is really where the cost lies,,, assuming you can re use all the original parts that is. It’s no small under taking as to go this far you’d end up replacing most sundries which can become a very long list. Bushes to ball joints etc etc, why do all that work and not replace this stuff as it wears anyway.
My fag packet calc
All the tools and skills and labour so only paying out for paint and parts, 2.5/3k to something like 5/6k depending on what covering your using on the chassis and how much you replace.
When you think about it there’s a few bushes and mountings etc etc brake lines and the odds and sods, nothing outrageously expensive though.
If these cars are to truelly realise there potential as great cars going forward most will have to have this chassis correction done at some point as it’s possibly the single biggest problem that left the factory as they all have a poor coating in reality, it’s surprising they have lasted this long.
Ball park figures based on my recent Griff body off.
For a specialist to blast the chassis, supply and fit new outriggers and powder coat, £2,500
I placed a parts order with a well known specialist for new bushes, new clutch, and everything that at that point I thought I would need (e.g. handbrake cable, ball joints and loads of other misc stuff), for just less than £2,000.
A subsequent order for shocks / springs and other stuff I had missed was around £1,000
Over the course of reassembly, most weeks my wife would pop down to the local motor factor with a list of stuff I had prepared on Sunday evening. In total, this was around another £2,000
We are now onto non essential stuff, but sportmotive headlights and some tasty bits from ACT was another £2,000.
Just for the record, the specialist who did the chassis work said they would have charged £4,000 for labour had they done the body off job in house.
I know it is possible to do the outriggers without lifting the body, but based on my experience, I would really recommend that you go down the body lift route. Slightly more expensive now, but you know it has been done properly and that there are no more hidden surprises.
For a specialist to blast the chassis, supply and fit new outriggers and powder coat, £2,500
I placed a parts order with a well known specialist for new bushes, new clutch, and everything that at that point I thought I would need (e.g. handbrake cable, ball joints and loads of other misc stuff), for just less than £2,000.
A subsequent order for shocks / springs and other stuff I had missed was around £1,000
Over the course of reassembly, most weeks my wife would pop down to the local motor factor with a list of stuff I had prepared on Sunday evening. In total, this was around another £2,000
We are now onto non essential stuff, but sportmotive headlights and some tasty bits from ACT was another £2,000.
Just for the record, the specialist who did the chassis work said they would have charged £4,000 for labour had they done the body off job in house.
I know it is possible to do the outriggers without lifting the body, but based on my experience, I would really recommend that you go down the body lift route. Slightly more expensive now, but you know it has been done properly and that there are no more hidden surprises.
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