Suspension Settings

[Belle427]

I have an alignment/height adjustment check coming up this week and have read the various threads on heights ie 150 rear 140 front. I’m happy enough their hunter system will hold all the other info.
My car was set up years ago but I’ve always felt it sat a little too low.
It’s was more like 130 rear 120 front.
I’ve measured at the tubular corner part of the outrigger as I find the triangular section hard to get an accurate reading.
I’ve also seen the wishbones should be set level for correct suspension operation.
Could anyone give me a definitive answer on where to start?
Purely everyday road driving and running Gaz Golds with standard wheel sizes.

[spitfire4v8]

Belle427 said:

I have an alignment/height adjustment check coming up this week and have read the various threads on heights ie 150 rear 140 front. I’m happy enough their hunter system will hold all the other info.
My car was set up years ago but I’ve always felt it sat a little too low.

What made you think it was too low and why did you not do anything about it years ago?

Belle427 said:

It’s was more like 130 rear 120 front.

Is that bad? if so how did it manifest itself in the driving of the car. It can't have been that bad or else you'd have changed it ?

Belle427 said:

I’ve measured at the tubular corner part of the outrigger as I find the triangular section hard to get an accurate reading.

How accurate do you need it to be? Don't get caught up with the to-the-nearest-mm-gang

Belle427 said:

I’ve also seen the wishbones should be set level for correct suspension operation.

Which wishbones? and why? and what happens to them when you sit in the car? or someone else sits in the car? are you going to re-weld the pickup points every time the load in the car changes? what happens when you go over a bump and the arms move? What if level wishbones (whichever ones you decide should be level, you're not going to get them all level unless you start welding new pickup points on the chassis for some) cocks up the balance for you?

Belle427 said:

Could anyone give me a definitive answer on where to start?

No-one can, because set up is personal preference. But you might like to start at the standardish tvr settings of around -3/4deg camber and around 10mins toe in front 20-30 mins toe in rear total (they had a few minor changes over the years with car spec changes etc, but that's a fair enough starting point)

Belle427 said:

Purely everyday road driving and running Gaz Golds with standard wheel sizes.

You will get the usual replies to this topic of you must have X part level and you must have 149.28mm height at 12.7mm back from the front of the outrigger (though they were never that accurately welded on anyway .. they couldn't even get the wishbone holes placed consistently, what chance do you think you have of measuring an outrigger and use that as a basis for suspension measurements?

Trust your Hunter guys to do their job (presumably they have a good reputation?) , or take it somewhere else / buy some cheap tools and do it yourself.

Incidently, I know hunters seem to be a go-to machine for suspension, but the one I had the misfortune to use at a garage I worked at once was miles out, despite having been set-up by someone who supposedly knew what they were doing. I doubt that they did. Horrendous tyre wear at the correct settings and I ended up resetting many with a string box on the floor, which is my preferred method anyway, you know if it's right or not. But you don't get a pretty printout.


Much of this post is exaggeration/tongue in cheek, but quite frankly you will get a load of tosh info for setting up. Treat the tvr settings as a guide and evolve your own set up from there.

I've spent a lifetime (nearly) setting up cars and generally for road cars all you need is this:

does it track straight and true?
is it supple enough to not throw you around inside the car, yet stiff enough to control the body movements and spring energy. (good luck with that)
does it have any dangerous handling traits and can they be trimmed out? (driver error aside)
do you have a particular handling balance you like consistent with safety (it's a road car after all, you've got to accept a degree of compromise)
can you get the shopping in it / two people / full tank of fuel / holiday luggage * delete as applicable, or if not are you prepared to adjust it for when you do?
Can you get into your work car park / golf club / supermarket without it grounding out?

etc etc .. basically does it do what you want it to (within the limitations of the original design), and if not what don't you like, tell your set up guy BEFORE he starts adjusting things .. it's common sense really .. you get the picture.

[Belle427]

Thanks, I will let them get on with it.

[phazed]

Belle427 said:

Thanks, I will let them get on with it.

No offence, I love your reply

[fieryfred]

I read various posts & checked my heights while adjusting my racing red shocks.
I had ordered new Bilsteins but in the mean time by adjusting the racing red's i got a nice smooth ride back & front.
Now i have new outriggers & the car looks well balanced.
So here are the figures.
From outriggers.
Front 157mm right, 150mm left
Rear 145mm right, 143mm left
Wheel arch clearance.
Front 32mm left, 23mm right.
Rear 38mm left, 30mm right.
This looks like its falling to the right for arch clearance & left from outriggers.

What you can not assume is that the outriggers are flat & even back to front & left to right.
The shock's are set correctly using the threaded adjustment.
The shocks can be tired & need rebuilding.

Now with the Bilsteins fitted.
From outriggers.
Front 154mm right, 149mm left
Rear 155mm right, 157mm left
Wheel arch clearance.
Front 27mm left, 24mm right.
Rear 55mm left, 52mm right.
I can live with the few mm difference.

So your shocks make a big difference in the dimensions you are checking.
I had my Geo checked & the only slight adjustment was to the rear.
So dont go mad trying to adjust, if it rides right & feels right leave it.
Check your shock's.
If anyone wants a set of racing reds PM me next week.

[Belle427]

fieryfred said:

I read various posts & checked my heights while adjusting my racing red shocks.
I had ordered new Bilsteins but in the mean time by adjusting the racing red's i got a nice smooth ride back & front.
Now i have new outriggers & the car looks well balanced.
So here are the figures.
From outriggers.
Front 157mm right, 150mm left
Rear 145mm right, 143mm left
Wheel arch clearance.
Front 32mm left, 23mm right.
Rear 38mm left, 30mm right.
This looks like its falling to the right for arch clearance & left from outriggers.

What you can not assume is that the outriggers are flat & even back to front & left to right.
The shock's are set correctly using the threaded adjustment.
The shocks can be tired & need rebuilding.

Now with the Bilsteins fitted.
From outriggers.
Front 154mm right, 149mm left
Rear 155mm right, 157mm left
Wheel arch clearance.
Front 27mm left, 24mm right.
Rear 55mm left, 52mm right.
I can live with the few mm difference.

So your shocks make a big difference in the dimensions you are checking.
I had my Geo checked & the only slight adjustment was to the rear.
So dont go mad trying to adjust, if it rides right & feels right leave it.
Check your shock's.
If anyone wants a set of racing reds PM me next week.

That’s a great help, thanks.