Haynes Range Rover Manual

[Sir Paolo]

Hi All, with the nearly constant road gritting now, it’s time to take my Chimaera of the road for a valley gasket change and other jobs.
I know it’s not particularly difficult and I’m quite handy with spanner’s, but I’d like to be fully prepared.
I understood that a Haynes P38 manual would be useful as Steve Heath’s book doesn’t cover this in detail?
Btw - it’s a ‘98 Serp
Many thanks 👍

[Belle427]

It's handy to have around for torque specs etc but the fitting description is very brief.
Most of what you need to know can be found online or here, it's not a hard job.

[Penelope Stopit]

https://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manuals/Wor...


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PDF-RANGE-ROVER-P38-199...

Edited by Penelope Stopit on Sunday 13th January 11:46

[ianwayne]

Most libraries have a range of Haynes manuals. I borrowed the Range Rover one for just that job myself, "Range Rover 1970 - 1992."

Most things were obvious really if you've worked on any other cars, but I do remember it said not to full tighten the 2 end gasket clamps (rubber gaskets under them) until all the other bolts were fully tight. The valley gasket has 'front' stamped on it for help

[Steve_D]

ianwayne said:

...............The valley gasket has 'front' stamped on it for help

Most don't.
Steve

[ianwayne]

I mentioned it because the Haynes manual made reference to a 'front' stamping so it should be. You could fit it facing the 'wrong' way but mine seemed symmetrical to me and I doubt it would have mattered. It is shaped such that you wouldn't fit it upside down.

[Sir Paolo]

Many thanks for your responses!

I do have a query surrounding the fuel rail though - do I need to 'release' the pressure in the system before removing the fuel lines, and is it possible to remove the fuel rail without removing the injectors first?
OK - that was two questions

Cheers guys!

[ianwayne]

The Schrader valve (like a car tyre valve) on the off side can be pressed to release excess pressure (have a cloth handy!) but there shouldn't be much if it's been a day or two since the ignition has been on.

You can't remove the injectors first, they are sandwiched between the rail and the manifold.

I've removed the injectors from 2 of my Chimaeras and you have to pull harder than you think! On both occasions, some injectors released at the rail end and some at the inlet manifold end. If the injectors stay behind in the manifold, twisting as you pull will release the rubber O-ring a bit easier.

[Sir Paolo]

Thanks, Ian - much appreciated.

From what you've said, do I have to remove the injectors, or can I leave them in situ once I've removed the inlet/fuel rail?

Cheers

[ianwayne]

If you're removing the inlet manifold only to change the valley gasket, then you don't HAVE to remove the fuel rail and injectors, you can leave it all assembled. But while you're there...….

If you're goin that far, it may be worth removing the fuel rail an having the injectors professionally cleaned and O-rings replaced. That's why I did it and this time I had the fuel rail cleaned and powder coated too. But it's your decision how much work you want to do.

Here's my rail afterwards:

[Sir Paolo]

Hi Ian, thanks - it may well be the thin end of the wedge alright.
I'm sure I'll find other jobs 'while it's in bits'.

I have been thinking about renewing the temperature sensors (not least because the gauge over-reads by 15deg), but that's probably a subject for a new thread...………………………

[Steve_D]

Sir Paolo said:

.................I have been thinking about renewing the temperature sensors (not least because the gauge over-reads by 15deg), but that's probably a subject for a new thread...………………………

They all do that, Sir.

Steve

[Sir Paolo]

Hi Steve, so I hear.

IIRC, you can disconnect the TVR sender and use the RR sender with a 100ohm resistor - so at least the gauge is accurate around critical temps(?)...

[ianwayne]

It has occurred to me that the fuel rail may be in the way (?), i.e. inhibit access to the inlet manifold bolts. Without removing the plenum and trumpet base, I couldn't be sure.

[Sir Paolo]

Hi Ian, I guess it's the access to the inlet m/f bolts that got me wondering whether or not I need to remove the fuel rail first.

[debaron]

ianwayne said:

It has occurred to me that the fuel rail may be in the way (?), i.e. inhibit access to the inlet manifold bolts. Without removing the plenum and trumpet base, I couldn't be sure.

With a good UJ and a couple 1/4" ratchet extension bars all hard to reach bolts can be got to without too much trouble.

Trick is to work the bolts on the OPPOSITE side to where you are.

Absolutely no need to remove trumpet base or fuel rail, unless you want to.

[Sir Paolo]

Thank-you, tips like that from people in the know will save me ages of faffing around

[Steve_D]

Sir Paolo said:

Hi Steve, so I hear.

IIRC, you can disconnect the TVR sender and use the RR sender with a 100ohm resistor - so at least the gauge is accurate around critical temps(?)...

Why bother. Just ignore the numbers printed on the gauge and get used to where the needle normally sits. If it goes somewhere else you can start to worry.

Steve

[Sir Paolo]

Hi Steve, true enough, but sometimes I can’t always hear the fans kicking in and out (on at 92 and off at 87).
The other issue is that the gauge reading still climbs to the end of the scale - which is apparently due to the TVR sender being in a ‘dead end’ away from the normal flow of coolant (like the RR one is).
I suppose it’s about peace of mind really.
Having said that I was stuck on the M25 for 2 hours during one of the hottest days last year without issue, even though it was nerve wracking at the time!