Top end tappety type noise
Discussion
Now runs correctly. Combination of dirty stepper and vac leak on loose hose to brake servo unit.
Been for a drive and engine top end is certainly a lot quieter with the "loose pad" rockers replaced.
Bad news though is that engine rattle is still there at 3000 rpm.
Next steps
1.have another go at doing the exhaust gaskets although can find no evidence of a leak.
2. Look into changing big end shells.
Been for a drive and engine top end is certainly a lot quieter with the "loose pad" rockers replaced.
Bad news though is that engine rattle is still there at 3000 rpm.
Next steps
1.have another go at doing the exhaust gaskets although can find no evidence of a leak.
2. Look into changing big end shells.
phazed said:
blaze_away said:
Look into changing big end shells.
Doable but fiddly!Big ends are normally a, "knock".
More likely to be a little end imho. High mileage isn't it?
Car is high mileage ~240,000 engine less so about 70000
If it drives get it over to Dom as he’s local to have a listen Frank.
He’s got so much work I can’t imagine he’d be upset to help you with a bit of advice.
He must have heard every noise going by now.
You could always drop the pistons out through the bottom and check little ends etc if you do drop the crank.
He’s got so much work I can’t imagine he’d be upset to help you with a bit of advice.
He must have heard every noise going by now.
You could always drop the pistons out through the bottom and check little ends etc if you do drop the crank.
Classic Chim said:
If it drives get it over to Dom as he’s local to have a listen Frank.
He’s got so much work I can’t imagine he’d be upset to help you with a bit of advice.
He must have heard every noise going by now.
You could always drop the pistons out through the bottom and check little ends etc if you do drop the crank.
Yeah good shout will do.He’s got so much work I can’t imagine he’d be upset to help you with a bit of advice.
He must have heard every noise going by now.
You could always drop the pistons out through the bottom and check little ends etc if you do drop the crank.
Curious thng.........
Just bought a new timing light as my current one broke some while back.
Just marked up the main crank wheel timing marks and checked ignition timing.
According to whats showing it is so far retarded its beyond belief. Im guessing its about 25 degrees retarded.
Ie if you look at the pointer the timing marks should be about 8 degrees advanced at idle vacuum removed.
Actually the marks appear by strobè light at about 2 oclock if the pointer is a 12 oclock.
Very odd Im guessing last person in there has set valve timing all wrong and thus ignition timing is all to cock too. Not sure what to do about that.
Maybe strip and redo timing from scratch with new cam chain
Just bought a new timing light as my current one broke some while back.
Just marked up the main crank wheel timing marks and checked ignition timing.
According to whats showing it is so far retarded its beyond belief. Im guessing its about 25 degrees retarded.
Ie if you look at the pointer the timing marks should be about 8 degrees advanced at idle vacuum removed.
Actually the marks appear by strobè light at about 2 oclock if the pointer is a 12 oclock.
Very odd Im guessing last person in there has set valve timing all wrong and thus ignition timing is all to cock too. Not sure what to do about that.
Maybe strip and redo timing from scratch with new cam chain
Edited by blaze_away on Monday 3rd June 19:30
phazed said:
How very strange.
The noise couldn’t be preignition could it? If your timing is all to cock as you say!
Certainly worth considering.The noise couldn’t be preignition could it? If your timing is all to cock as you say!
Unfortunately I dont have a way to hold the crank pulley so I can undo the main bolt so xant easily correct the timing. BUT I guess it must be 1/8 of 360 degrees out....Is my logic right ? ....or is it 1/8 of 180 degrees ?
If yes then if I do the timing on next cylinder in firing order it should bring me back the timing marks or is that complete bunkum thinking ?
Reading this with interest, as my engine is making a similar noise over 3000 rpm under load. I have changed the oil so far, which reduced but didn’t eliminate the noise. I am now debating using the Wynn’s stuff, but my instinct is to take it to a man what knows, and see what he thinks.
If for some reason it is pre-ignition that would be strange in Anthony’s, (QBee‘s) case as his engine has recently been mapped and that is fixed. Of course, anything is possible in this world and the run-up to Mat’s and a listen by his expert ears would confirm or dispel this theory.
So given the above, pre-ignition is highly unlikely in your case.
Regarding Franks, anything is possible!
So given the above, pre-ignition is highly unlikely in your case.
Regarding Franks, anything is possible!
FoxTVR430 said:
blaze_away said:
Curious thng.........
Just bought a new timing light as my current one broke some while back.
Silly question but is this the cause may be ??Just bought a new timing light as my current one broke some while back.
Edited by blaze_away on Monday 3rd June 19:30
Both show same as being massively retarded.
phazed said:
But you won't be able to fit them back!
I’d agree although I’ve never done it, just remember Rich defo changed crank shells in situ, I can’t remember if he took the pistons out though so I bow to your greater knowledge Peter. Can’t imagine getting piston rings into bores from underneath is anything but a pita and reet dodgy anyway.
Is it the same Frank who was asking SteveSprint about ecu stuff because of dreadful fuel consumption? If so, retarded timing would certainly cause that, but what you've measured it stupidly retarded, are you sure you're hooked up to cylinder 1 ?
Have you checked that TDC on the pulley is physically TDC on cyl 1 ?
As chimpongas keeps saying, sort the basics first.
Have you checked that TDC on the pulley is physically TDC on cyl 1 ?
As chimpongas keeps saying, sort the basics first.
phazed said:
Maybe not impossible but it will be really difficult to get the spring compressor the piston and your hand all in there at the same time.
It’s got to be done from above so heads off, my red herring. If someone changed the Cam and got timing gears out of alignment by say 30d, put it together then realised, could they then set timing by working out their own tdc and marking pulley wheel resulting in and unbeknown to Frank the timing marks being way off what he’s expecting,, just thinking aloud.
The car had a Cam change in its history
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