Battery Cut Off switch WITHOUT ECU-Reset?

[Penelope Stopit]

blitzracing said:

Penelope Stopit said:

blitzracing is definitely not going to love this one

If you knew what you where taking about you would realise that all the main current switching for the ECU is done by grounding the relays in the loom or grounding the injectors, the ECU itself does not supply any significant current so you don't need a 20 amp fuse to supply 12v on the ECU Pin 15 as this is where your permanent feed would need to go.

I'm beyond bored with your nit picking, go and bother another forum with your 3 posts a day about nothing of any use, you wont find any friends here.

Edited by blitzracing on Tuesday 18th June 21:49

I do know what I'm talking about and I'm not nit picking

There is no way that a 1 Amp fuse should be fitted in the Pin 15 supply
Considering that the original cable is fused at 20 Amps I am miffed as to why you chose a 1 Amp fuse

The current draw through the fuse to Pin 15 is at present an unknown, the size of the cable to Pin 15 is known to be of an 8 Amps minimum continuous current rating yet could be 16 Amps

We don't tend to see that the original 20 Amps fuse is blowing due to a short at Pin 15 caused by an ECU internal short circuit

Now we know that it's better to work with the known's rather than the unknown's don't we

Although it would be good to know the maximum current draw at pin 15, this figure is not needed

There is an 8 Amp cable to Pin 15 and it can be protected with a 10 Amp blade fuse that will pop instantly should the cable short to ground

Apart from us working with an unknown current draw, a 1 Amp fuse is not physically strong enough, 1 Amp fuses are extremely flimsy

A 10 Amp blade fuse should be used in the Pin 15 supply cable and is a great improvement compared to the 20 Amp fuse used by TVR

[Penelope Stopit]

Steve_D said:

A 1 amp supply into pin 15 of the RCU will probably be more than enough to keep the memory going.
At present that comes from fuse 2 (20 amp) but fuse 2 also supplies the main supply into the ECU pin 2 plus the MAF and 8 injectors hence why it is 20 amp.

Steve

probably is not a solution, we are dealing with an unknown value

This is apart from my above observations

[blitzracing]

Penelope Stopit said:

I do know what I'm talking about and I'm not nit picking

There is no way that a 1 Amp fuse should be fitted in the Pin 15 supply
Considering that the original cable is fused at 20 Amps I am miffed as to why you chose a 1 Amp fuse

The current draw through the fuse to Pin 15 is at present an unknown, the size of the cable to Pin 15 is known to be of an 8 Amps minimum continuous current rating yet could be 16 Amps

We don't tend to see that the original 20 Amps fuse is blowing due to a short at Pin 15 caused by an ECU internal short circuit

Now we know that it's better to work with the known's rather than the unknown's don't we

Although it would be good to know the maximum current draw at pin 15, this figure is not needed

There is an 8 Amp cable to Pin 15 and it can be protected with a 10 Amp blade fuse that will pop instantly should the cable short to ground

Apart from us working with an unknown current draw, a 1 Amp fuse is not physically strong enough, 1 Amp fuses are extremely flimsy

A 10 Amp blade fuse should be used in the Pin 15 supply cable and is a great improvement compared to the 20 Amp fuse used by TVR

.. Do you honestly think Lucas are going to use half a dozen different wire sizes to match the current drawn within a loom? How much current do you think it takes to keep an ECU memory running? It wont be even 8 amps for sure, it might be a few milliamps. What you don't get is the 20 amp bit supplies all the relays and AFM , not just the ECU bit ONCE THE IGNITION IS ON. Unlikely seeing as the system is isolated apart from pin 15. I might take some notice if you had actually worked on these cars or systems first hand, but I think we will be in for a very long wait for that to happen. So for now go back to your ladybird book of magnets bulbs and batteries and stick to things you know about and don't bother trying to dig yourself out of the hole you have dug yourself, no one is interested.

Edited by blitzracing on Wednesday 19th June 13:50

[Penelope Stopit]

blitzracing said:

Penelope Stopit said:

I do know what I'm talking about and I'm not nit picking

There is no way that a 1 Amp fuse should be fitted in the Pin 15 supply
Considering that the original cable is fused at 20 Amps I am miffed as to why you chose a 1 Amp fuse

The current draw through the fuse to Pin 15 is at present an unknown, the size of the cable to Pin 15 is known to be of an 8 Amps minimum continuous current rating yet could be 16 Amps

We don't tend to see that the original 20 Amps fuse is blowing due to a short at Pin 15 caused by an ECU internal short circuit

Now we know that it's better to work with the known's rather than the unknown's don't we

Although it would be good to know the maximum current draw at pin 15, this figure is not needed

There is an 8 Amp cable to Pin 15 and it can be protected with a 10 Amp blade fuse that will pop instantly should the cable short to ground

Apart from us working with an unknown current draw, a 1 Amp fuse is not physically strong enough, 1 Amp fuses are extremely flimsy

A 10 Amp blade fuse should be used in the Pin 15 supply cable and is a great improvement compared to the 20 Amp fuse used by TVR

.. Do you honestly think Lucas are going to use half a dozen different wire sizes to match the current drawn within a loom? How much current do you think it takes to keep an ECU memory running? It wont be even 8 amps for sure, it might be a few milliamps. What you don't get is the 20 amp bit supplies all the relays and AFM , not just the ECU bit ONCE THE IGNITION IS ON. Unlikely seeing as the system is isolated apart from pin 15. I might take some notice if you had actually worked on these cars or systems first hand, but I think we will be in for a very long wait for that to happen. So for now go back to your ladybird book of magnets bulbs and batteries and stick to things you know about and don't bother trying to dig yourself out of the hole you have dug yourself, no one is interested.

Edited by blitzracing on Wednesday 19th June 13:50

blitzracing said:

Do you honestly think Lucas are going to use half a dozen different wire sizes to match the current drawn within a loom?

Although cable sizes have nothing to do with the fact that you recommend a 1 Amp fuse for the ECU permanent supply which is not good practice....

I don't think anything. I know it because I have to know it

Lucas often used 9/012, 14/012, 28/012, 44/012, 65/012 in their wiring harnesses

I've rebuilt a wiring harness that had too bigger cables in it due to a stock shortage of the required thinner ones

I never take anything for granted as this can be very costly

blitzracing said:

How much current do you think it takes to keep an ECU memory running?

I don't need to think anything about what current could be drawn through the ECU permanent supply circuit and have earlier explained why, I will repeat myself just for you

The original 20 AMP TVR fuse isn't protecting the ECU in any way, the 20 amp fuse is protecting the cable to the ECU. Once the ECU cable is isolated from the relay supply cables and re-run as a single cable connecting to the battery side of a master switch, it can then be protected with a 10 Amp blade fuse

It would still be interesting to witness current draw measurements being taken from the ECU Pin 15 circuit but the result won't alter the fact that your suggestion of using a 1 Amp fuse to protect it is ludicrous

blitzracing said:

What you don't get is the 20 amp bit supplies all the relays and AFM , not just the ECU bit ONCE THE IGNITION IS ON

I assure you I do get it. Please don't shout

blitzracing said:

I might take some notice if you had actually worked on these cars or systems first hand, but I think we will be in for a very long wait for that to happen

My knowledge and hands-on experience is vast. There is no need for you to wait as it's already happened

blitzracing said:

So for now go back to your ladybird book of magnets bulbs and batteries

Your above comment would be funny if posted by a youngster. Please don't tell me what to do

blitzracing said:

don't bother trying to dig yourself out of the hole you have dug yourself

I don't understand how you can think this way. I have posted some information and shared it here

blitzracing said:

no one is interested

Maybe not, maybe, who knows. That said, if just one person reads through my above help in the future and fits a 10 Amp fuse to protect the supply to Pin 15 rather than your suggested 1 Amp fuse.....It will all have been worthwhile

[ChimpOnGas]

Please leave the TVR community alone Penelope Stopit!

[Classic Chim]

Blitz has helped hundreds if not thousands of people with Ecu and many other electrical faults.
As a Tvr owner people like Steve, Mark, Simon and many others offer their expertise for free so please don’t ruin it for the rest of us with this tedious nonsense as their contribution to this forum is key to its success and hundreds of us keep our cars going via much of this helpfull and practical advice and we don’t need someone taking that away now do we.......
have a good day

[Tonymg]

ok bad photo but it works all the time for me

[blitzracing]

ChimpOnGas said:

Please leave the TVR community alone Penelope Stopit!

I think this was the last forum left for him that he had not already bored to death and been told to leave.

[Penelope Stopit]

Tonymg said:

ok bad photo but it works all the time for me

Yes these do work good as an isolator switch that is not to be switched off while the engine is running, the only doubt I have about them is the current carrying capacity

Specification:
Voltage: 12V
Rated Current: 200A
Max Current: 500A for 5 seconds
Round disk diameter: 2.36'' (60mm)
Feet Spacing: 1.35'' (34.5mm)
Height: 2.99'' (76mm) (no key)
Overall height: 4.25'' (108mm) (with key)

Package included:
1 x battery switch
2 x Key
1 x Waterproof cover

[ChimpOnGas]

Penelope Stopit said:

Yes these do work good as an isolator switch that is not to be switched off while the engine is running, the only doubt I have about them is the current carrying capacity

Specification:
Voltage: 12V
Rated Current: 200A
Max Current: 500A for 5 seconds
Round disk diameter: 2.36'' (60mm)
Feet Spacing: 1.35'' (34.5mm)
Height: 2.99'' (76mm) (no key)
Overall height: 4.25'' (108mm) (with key)

Package included:
1 x battery switch
2 x Key
1 x Waterproof cover

Surely it would be better with a few relays

[Belle427]

Some relay porn for you, bottom of first page.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

[blitzracing]

Ill raise you 5 relays :



Sharing beer last night with a few genuine TVR owners and I now think I,m being far too mean to Penelope, I mean look at the facts.

His vast knowledge of Lucas wiring and excessive relays is God like,and we mere minions don't need him to have any real life profiles / pictures / web sites of his cars and wiring to know this. He is so divine he will share his knowledge with us whether we like it or not to save us from our evil ways... and what a hero that will take a 1 amp fuse in the chest just to prevent a TVR owner from fitting the wrong one- talk about leading from the front. As for come backs, he has more than the ex wife, so I should know when I,m beaten. I will now scurry off now issuing the words "we are not worthy", and go and get my hands dirty in the garage in the real world......

[Oldred_V8S]

blitzracing said:

Ill raise you 5 relays :



Sharing beer last night with a few genuine TVR owners and I now think I,m being far too mean to Penelope, I mean look at the facts.

His vast knowledge of Lucas wiring and excessive relays is God like,and we mere minions don't need him to have any real life profiles / pictures / web sites of his cars and wiring to know this. He is so divine he will share his knowledge with us whether we like it or not to save us from our evil ways... and what a hero that will take a 1 amp fuse in the chest just to prevent a TVR owner from fitting the wrong one- talk about leading from the front. As for come backs, he has more than the ex wife, so I should know when I,m beaten. I will now scurry off now issuing the words "we are not worthy", and go and get my hands dirty in the garage in the real world......

That was the classic Penny and who can forget the solution looking for a problem that is the 24v charging circuit? Cue even more relays, was it 9 or 10?

Penny do you ever wonder why you get into so many spats on PH and then do you wonder what the common denominator is?
I've seen so many people who never get involved in arguments on here, get embroiled in one with you. Why?
Your posts follow a common pattern.

1. You offer a solution
2. Someone diplomatically points out a flaw in said solution.
3. You take umbrage and instead of saying something along the lines of "oops, I missed that," you dig a hole and try to twist the conversation/information.
4. Knowledgeable poster replies reaffirming their information
5. You continue to dig a hole and try to obfuscate the situation

4&5 then get repeated ad nauseum until the knowledgeable person tires of arguing with a brick wall and leaves the thread/forum (see above)

As Blitz said above, we have never seen what you have done on your car, never seen anything like real-world experience to suggest the solutions you have offered are tried and tested by yourself (or even others).

Others have requested pictures of solutions you have written up and how it has been used on your own car. These requests are always met with silence.

You appear to be very good at collating information, trawling the web and using cut and paste. That works for so long but doesn't fill people with confidence that what you are offering has been tried and tested on your own car(s). There are many knowledgeable people on here who can spot someone masquerading as an expert, especially when that person gets called out by someone with a higher level of knowledge. How the wanna-be expert handles that is a mark of that person; unfortunately you have failed the test.

Penny, as Blitz, COG, Classic Chim and others have said, please go. Do the decent thing and take whatever personal problems you have, that stop you interacting in an adult fashion with others, off to another forum.
Maybe even setup that car electrical website where you can share your love of relays with others. Don't worry, the proposed Government tightening up on porn sites will not affect your enjoyment of the Radio Spares website.

You are spoiling a great forum and potentially risking a lot of knowledge to disappear as the people with that knowledge get pissed off with your attitude and leave. We need those people and others that are prepared to share their time, knowledge and real world experience of the cars we all love.

Please, just go.

[phillpot]

Amen.

[ChimpOnGas]

phillpot said:

Amen.

+1

[Belle427]

For all you penny fans.

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...