Range Rover Temp Sender Thread Size?

[SILICONEKID 357HP]

I will do and then I can try your clutch.

[Tekno]

I’ve put the sender in and connected the spade connector from what I gather to be the correct source. Car warmed really well. Then it went to 90C on the gauge and no fans. It then accelerated up to 100, still without fans. I cut the engine and got the RG connected.

I waited 30 mins prior to starting the engine again. It’s saying 70C on RG and 90C on the gauge.

Any advice as to what the bloody hell is going on? Dodgy new sender?

Edited by Tekno on Wednesday 6th May 15:07

Edited by Tekno on Wednesday 6th May 15:32

[Zener]

Possibly mine went bad a couple of hrs after install my daughter snapped this pic for me whilst moving it actually hit 100 on the journey back once I discovered what the issue was a replacement was sent out easily enough & no problem since I had a spare (purchased 2) so just sent in the resistance offset/comparison between the two at a couple of different temps as they requested (which were huge in OHMS terms) still I recovered fully after a pants change when looking down and seeing this on a run out

Edited by Zener on Wednesday 6th May 16:58

[LLantrisant]

most probably those parts are in reality made in china or made in india....

[QBee]

Mine was spot on. You have been unlucky.

[trumpet1608]

I have this mod fitted and the gauge shows the real temperature (checked with an infra red temp reader thingy).

However, not long after I fitted it I was driving to Switzerland in very hot weather and all was well until I started driving through the tunnels under Zurich where the temperature rose from a stable 90±2deg C to 105. Panic set in but I couldn't stop. I eventually cleared the tunnels and turned the lights off and the temp gauge immediately dropped to 90 again. Obviously I checked this out and every time the lights are turned on the temp goes up.

I suspect, but am ready to be corrected, that when the lights are on the voltage to the temp gauge falls resulting in the raised temp reading.

I noticed that in the photo the lights are on and maybe the same phenomenon is at work.

All the best

Dick

[LLantrisant]

this sounds the typical problem on historic british cars where temp. & fuel gauge had been supplied with 10V via a voltage stabilizer...once the stab. was faulty , readings where way out.

but, Chimaera and V-stabilizer? i guess not...the instruments are of a modern type, therefore voltage fluctuation should not influence their readings.

[mk1fan]

Fault on the common earth?

[Steve_D]

mk1fan said:

Fault on the common earth?

Could well be. The body of the gauge is earthed but normally only by the clamp that holds the instrument in the dash so it is impossible to get a really tight connection.

Steve

[QBee]

Steve_D said:

QBee said:

.........................my recently fitted Caerbont oil temperature gauge was shouting “Stop” at well over 115 degrees C. ........................

David Vizard in one of his Chevy books says oil temp up to 149 is OK for synthetic oils 121 for mineral.

Steve

Just to follow up on this, I had a slight tappety noise under acceleration in the ensuing months after this track day and 115-125 degree oil temperatures.
I then went on a second track day in September, knowing something was up, and mid-afternoon the tappetty noise became a heavy mechanical noise mid-lap. Drove home at low revs and sent the car to Mat Smith.

Mat pulled the engine out and then apart, emptied out the oil which, stank and was totally burnt, so clearly Valvoline VR1 Racing 10w60 wasn't good for 149 degrees C. End result was a spun big end bearing and collateral damage, engine now in the final stages of being rebuilt after machining, new bearings, pistons, re-ground crankshaft etc etc.

However, I am convinced that the gauge, with the new sender, was tetling me the true water temperature (around 90 degrees with a turbo on a warm track day), and that the Caerbont oil temperature gauge was telling me the truth regarding the oil temperature, as it fitted with other Chimaera owners oil temperatures on that day

[Zener]

What were the other bearings like? how often is the oil changed ? running those oil temps for extended periods is not ideal for a glorified mineral oil regardless of what the packaging says syn blend is not synthetic oil if it was it would state Fully Synthetic

[QBee]

Zener said:

What were the other bearings like? how often is the oil changed ? running those oil temps for extended periods is not ideal for a glorified mineral oil regardless of what the packaging says syn blend is not synthetic oil if it was it would state Fully Synthetic

Yes, my mistake it would seem.

I spoke to Valvoline tecnichal in the Netherlands.

He admitted that calling an oil VR1 "Racing", when it was arguably not fit for racing, could be seen as misleading.

He also admitted that calling an oil that was part synthetic "synthetic technology" could mislead idiots like me who, having seen in the past that Shell and Castrol 10 w 60 Racing oils WERE fully synthetic, assumed that Valvoline's "synthetic technology" was too.

He recommended that I use their FULLY synthetic 5 w 50 Racing in future, as it would withstand higher temperatures and, being thinner at these temperatures, would flow better around the engine and give better cooling.

I recommend that I ignore marketing names, and research any oil I intend to use in future as thoroughly as I should have researched this oil.

Poorer and wiser.

[Zener]

Anthony it certainly dont make you an idiot its slightly underhand marketing hype thats at play here apparently according to something I once read the Racing bit is in place because of the ZDDP additives compulsory/legal requirement (USA produced oils anyway) in the states or such like due to Zinc potentially damaging exhaust emission equipment catalyst etc long term I am looking at Joe Gibbs Driven range (proper fully syn oils) at the moment as the ZDDP additive package is real issue with a flat tappet cam not BS , if your not aware I run a relatively big solid cam which I would like to save for as long as possible , what many fail to realise is its not just a matter of a failed cam but the metallic damaging silt it shoves into the oiling system regardless of your oil filter especially if it fails in a shortish period I have witnessed the carnage twice on the RV8 and its not pretty bearings, pistons, rockers etc , anyway fear I'm going off topic

Edited by Zener on Wednesday 13th May 11:59

[QBee]

Zener said:

Anthony it certainly dont make you an idiot its slightly underhand marketing hype thats at play here apparently according to something I once read the Racing bit is in place because of the ZDDP additives compulsory/legal requirement (USA produced oils anyway) in the states or such like due to Zinc potentially damaging exhaust emission equipment catalyst etc long term I am looking at Joe Gibbs Driven range of oils at the moment as the ZDDP additive package is real issue with a flat tappet cam not BS , if your not aware I run a relatively big solid cam which I would like to save for as long as possible , what many fail to realise is its not just a matter of a failed cam but the metallic damaging silt it shoves into the oiling system regardless of your oil filter especially if it fails in a shortish period I have witnessed the carnage twice on the RV8 and its not pretty bearings, pistons, rockers etc , anyway fear I'm going off topic

Edited by Zener on Wednesday 13th May 11:57

Kind words, Simon, but I still feel stupid. I knew I had to have fully sympathetic oil. I should have checked.

Mat said i had a spun big end bearing. He has changed all big end and main bearings and had the crank reground. He has also changed pistons and piston rings while he had the engine apart anyway, the bores have been honed, and all other bearings, gaskets and seals have been replaced.

Once he has finished we just need to review the oil cooler situation to maximise cooling (the old one had to be binned anyway) and run the engine in.

I know what you mean about silt damage - the turbo failed on my latest Saab shed (sadly not long after i bought it}. The turbo itself wasn't silly money from Neo Bros, but because the turbo bearing has collapsed I had to replace all the other associated pipework etc which more than doubled the parts bill.

[Zener]

Unless it states fully syn its not syn blend, semi syn, syn technology, syn engineered blah blah is just clever marketing bks IMO

[SILICONEKID 357HP]

QBee said:

Yes, my mistake it would seem.

I spoke to Valvoline tecnichal in the Netherlands.

He admitted that calling an oil VR1 "Racing", when it was arguably not fit for racing, could be seen as misleading.

He also admitted that calling an oil that was part synthetic "synthetic technology" could mislead idiots like me who, having seen in the past that Shell and Castrol 10 w 60 Racing oils WERE fully synthetic, assumed that Valvoline's "synthetic technology" was too.

He recommended that I use their FULLY synthetic 5 w 50 Racing in future, as it would withstand higher temperatures and, being thinner at these temperatures, would flow better around the engine and give better cooling.

I recommend that I ignore marketing names, and research any oil I intend to use in future as thoroughly as I should have researched this oil.

Poorer and wiser.

I wonder if that's the problem with my car ,the big ends .
Heavy metallic noise from cold then disappears. It's also makes the same noise on high load .

[Zener]

Less than a few hours work to check/confirm and bolt-up again Daz kill two birds with one stone if its due for oil and filter change anyway

[QBee]

As I understand it, Daz, dropping the sump reveals the relevant oily bits, IF, and only IF, that's the problem.
One man's heavy mechanical noise is another man's Swiss watch tick.

[SILICONEKID 357HP]

Its took so long to not have oil leaks from the sump and I'm not confident putting it back .

Some of the TVR owners are now buying a new rubber type gasket which apparently seals the sump every time .

Would thick or thin oil work better with piston slap ? that's what Mat told me .
It's only done 15k and v8d have listened to it .
It's always had quality oil in it and I've been to pod say half a dozen times and I've done three track days .
I think any warranty is void with any of the above .
I would of thought a 360hp 5l should beable to take a bit of racing and a few visits to pod because it's high performance .
Why bother having a high powered car if it's only for the road .

[Tekno]

Happy to report that Chris @ Redline Components provided a replacement and it is bob on the money and the fans chimed in bang on as expected. Can recommend Chris as a source for this sender.