Range Rover Temp Sender Thread Size?
Discussion
The purpose of a thread is to tell a story, and if people are interested in this I'm sure they'll invest 10 minutes to read the full story.
Of course the story is not over, we really need some more feedback from people who've tried the TT6811-03 sender, the findings of one do not amount to a fully confirmed success by any stretch.
I'd want to hear the feedback from a few more who've tried the TT6811-03 sender before we fully endorse it.
Of course the story is not over, we really need some more feedback from people who've tried the TT6811-03 sender, the findings of one do not amount to a fully confirmed success by any stretch.
I'd want to hear the feedback from a few more who've tried the TT6811-03 sender before we fully endorse it.
Well, the Caerbont sender worked for me too!
Cheers Dave!
My temperature gauge would always read at 15deg higher than it should, and it would take an age to move off the max, even when on the move again.
As you couldn’t always hear the fans working being stuck in traffic was always quite unnerving
No problem now- the gauge is very accurate and you can see the fans pulling the temp down.
One of the best TVR mods ever-
Cheers Dave!
My temperature gauge would always read at 15deg higher than it should, and it would take an age to move off the max, even when on the move again.
As you couldn’t always hear the fans working being stuck in traffic was always quite unnerving
No problem now- the gauge is very accurate and you can see the fans pulling the temp down.
One of the best TVR mods ever-
Ordered mine yesterday. Caerbont are not the best organised company in terms of taking the order, but it was dispatched immediately and should be with me today. And they didn't seem to want me to order 2, either.
Thanks Dave - I am expecting it to be a good mod, especially as i do tend to run hot on summer track days with the turbo doing its stuff.
I saw Mat Smith yesterday afternoon, and he was very interested in it.
Thanks Dave - I am expecting it to be a good mod, especially as i do tend to run hot on summer track days with the turbo doing its stuff.
I saw Mat Smith yesterday afternoon, and he was very interested in it.
Good stuff chaps 
Please do keep the feedback coming as so far only I and my friend Paul (Sir Paolo) have fitted the TT6811-03, both of us are seeing promising early results but it would be good to see the comments from others who've tried this sender.
As previously covered please be aware the sender is approximately 8mm shorter than the original.
Since my video test when I first fitted the sender I have seen a few more over temp spikes, the spike only happens once and at the point my 88 degree thermostat opens, as the true coolant temp reaches 90c in the inlet manifold the gauge overshoots reaching 98c for just a second or two before quickly returning to the correct 90c.
This over temp spike on the gauge is a proven false reading as confirmed by my Canems software that takes its reading from the original Lucas ECU sender sat in the inlet manifold right next to my new TT6811-03 sender, I'm not in the least bit concerned about this momentary spike as it only lasts a second or two and is proven false.
I suspect the short length of the sender is why I'm seeing the momentary over temp spike and it may also be my TVR would benefit from a quick bleed of its cooling system, it's possible the shorter sender is momentarily seeing a pocket of steam instead of true coolant contact? As I say it'll probably disappear after I've bled the system and other than the momentary temp spike my experiences are that fitting the TT6811-03 sender is a significant improvement over what TVR gave us.
Please share your additional feedback on the TT6811-03 sender here, your contribution will benefit other owners of TVR Chimaeras & Griffiths fitted with Caerbont gauge sets.
Thanks, Dave.
Please do keep the feedback coming as so far only I and my friend Paul (Sir Paolo) have fitted the TT6811-03, both of us are seeing promising early results but it would be good to see the comments from others who've tried this sender.
As previously covered please be aware the sender is approximately 8mm shorter than the original.
Since my video test when I first fitted the sender I have seen a few more over temp spikes, the spike only happens once and at the point my 88 degree thermostat opens, as the true coolant temp reaches 90c in the inlet manifold the gauge overshoots reaching 98c for just a second or two before quickly returning to the correct 90c.
This over temp spike on the gauge is a proven false reading as confirmed by my Canems software that takes its reading from the original Lucas ECU sender sat in the inlet manifold right next to my new TT6811-03 sender, I'm not in the least bit concerned about this momentary spike as it only lasts a second or two and is proven false.
I suspect the short length of the sender is why I'm seeing the momentary over temp spike and it may also be my TVR would benefit from a quick bleed of its cooling system, it's possible the shorter sender is momentarily seeing a pocket of steam instead of true coolant contact? As I say it'll probably disappear after I've bled the system and other than the momentary temp spike my experiences are that fitting the TT6811-03 sender is a significant improvement over what TVR gave us.
Please share your additional feedback on the TT6811-03 sender here, your contribution will benefit other owners of TVR Chimaeras & Griffiths fitted with Caerbont gauge sets.
Thanks, Dave.
its a taper thread anyway 
dont go mad its only brass 
once it starts to tighten just go another 180 degrees ish Hi All, swapping out senders is easy, but of course the fuel rail stops you getting squarely on the thing with a socket, and it’s too confined to get a ring spanner in there without removing hoses/dizzy etc.
I used a cranked combination spanner- made the job v easy- max 10 mins including removing HT leads out the way
12mm end to remove old unit and 13mm to fit new.
As has been mentioned do not over tighten or use thread sealant
Good luck
I used a cranked combination spanner- made the job v easy- max 10 mins including removing HT leads out the way
12mm end to remove old unit and 13mm to fit new.
As has been mentioned do not over tighten or use thread sealant
Good luck
Ok, so lets put the results into images we can all view easily........
A true 55c
A true 60c
A true 69c
A true 80c
A true 86c
A true 88c
A true 95c
A true 97c
Ok so I think that confirms it..... The new 1/8 NPT thread TT6811-03 sender from Caerbont is cheaper and works way better than the original 5/8 UNF threaded sender TVR fitted to a tread adapter which effectively creates a less than ideal blind spur where coolant struggles to surround the sender as well at should.
Being a 1/8 NPT thread it's also a straight swap for the Range Rover sender which sits in a much better position in the inlet manifold, this means for roughly £15.00 and 10 minutes work swapping senders every owner of a TVR Chimaera or Griffith fitted with the common Caerbont gauges can finally enjoy far more accurate and consistent coolant temperature readings.
I hope this discovery helps my fellow TVR owners?
Best regards, Dave
NB: If anyone is still running the Range Rover sender with a resistor I recommend replacing it with a TT6811-03 sender immediately, the resistor mod is not reliable and may disguise an overheating situation that could end very badly indeed!
A true 55c
A true 60c
A true 69c
A true 80c
A true 86c
A true 88c
A true 95c
A true 97c
Ok so I think that confirms it..... The new 1/8 NPT thread TT6811-03 sender from Caerbont is cheaper and works way better than the original 5/8 UNF threaded sender TVR fitted to a tread adapter which effectively creates a less than ideal blind spur where coolant struggles to surround the sender as well at should.
Being a 1/8 NPT thread it's also a straight swap for the Range Rover sender which sits in a much better position in the inlet manifold, this means for roughly £15.00 and 10 minutes work swapping senders every owner of a TVR Chimaera or Griffith fitted with the common Caerbont gauges can finally enjoy far more accurate and consistent coolant temperature readings.
I hope this discovery helps my fellow TVR owners?
Best regards, Dave
NB: If anyone is still running the Range Rover sender with a resistor I recommend replacing it with a TT6811-03 sender immediately, the resistor mod is not reliable and may disguise an overheating situation that could end very badly indeed!
thats got to be the most accurate analogue gauge to date Just finished fitting mine.
I have to mention, when I ordered I exopected to have to buy two, but they let me buy one. The downside is that carriage is £7 plus VAT (DPD next day from Swansea), so if you did get together with a friend nearby, you would be able to share the carriage cost, but would have the cost of getting the second sender to your friend - probably not worth the faff unless hen lives within a few hundred yards.
The job - b
d for access. Ok, as Simon knows, I am to spanners what he is to macrame, but all the same.....
The Range Rover sender is on top of the engine, front left corner, close to the number 1 injector. It is above the water level with the engine off, so no risk of losing any coolant. The fuel rail gets in the way of using a socket, if you are like me you are scared stiff of shearing off the old one, and no ring spanner that I own will fit properly. I can drop a socket over the sender, but then the connector on top of the sender gets in the way of the ratchet arm.
Having at first thought the old RR sender was actually 7/16ths AF, I can dispel that idea - it truly is 12mm.
Cut a 2 hour story short, having taken what I take to be the ECU sender out, disconnected the number 1 injector and removed a coolant hose, I got all the access I could, and still couldnt't get a ring spanner on it properly. I finally managed to get a Halfords deep socket on it at a slight angle and get my ratchet and extender onto the socket, and after that it was simple. I did find the new one (13mm deep socket) was stiff going in, so i took it out and cleaned the grit left by the previous one off, and then it went in, stiff but ok. Cable connected (at its maximum stretch) and everything back together.
I then took it for a drive around my local roads, not least because i had a newly fitted set of Rainsport 3s to try out (bloody hell, grip was awesome and ride very comfortable, though a spirited 7 miles did add 3psi to the pressures), and the gauge behaved exactly as i expected, keeping very close to the oil temperature gauge and giving the readings I expected. Arrived home with it saying 80, left the car idling, opened the bonnet to watch the fans, and waited. After a few seconds the gauge said 92, the fans kicked in, and then kicked out again at 88. Don't forget my car has a turbo, so tends to run a few degrees hotter than yours might.
Conclusion: Bob on, thank you Dave.
I will report again on the higher temperature ranges when i do my next track day, or if I get some traffic driving on a very hot day.
Photos if they are of any interest:
Innocent looking location after disconnecting everything I could
Temperature gauges on arriving home from my 7 mile test drive
I have to mention, when I ordered I exopected to have to buy two, but they let me buy one. The downside is that carriage is £7 plus VAT (DPD next day from Swansea), so if you did get together with a friend nearby, you would be able to share the carriage cost, but would have the cost of getting the second sender to your friend - probably not worth the faff unless hen lives within a few hundred yards.
The job - b
d for access. Ok, as Simon knows, I am to spanners what he is to macrame, but all the same.....The Range Rover sender is on top of the engine, front left corner, close to the number 1 injector. It is above the water level with the engine off, so no risk of losing any coolant. The fuel rail gets in the way of using a socket, if you are like me you are scared stiff of shearing off the old one, and no ring spanner that I own will fit properly. I can drop a socket over the sender, but then the connector on top of the sender gets in the way of the ratchet arm.
Having at first thought the old RR sender was actually 7/16ths AF, I can dispel that idea - it truly is 12mm.
Cut a 2 hour story short, having taken what I take to be the ECU sender out, disconnected the number 1 injector and removed a coolant hose, I got all the access I could, and still couldnt't get a ring spanner on it properly. I finally managed to get a Halfords deep socket on it at a slight angle and get my ratchet and extender onto the socket, and after that it was simple. I did find the new one (13mm deep socket) was stiff going in, so i took it out and cleaned the grit left by the previous one off, and then it went in, stiff but ok. Cable connected (at its maximum stretch) and everything back together.
I then took it for a drive around my local roads, not least because i had a newly fitted set of Rainsport 3s to try out (bloody hell, grip was awesome and ride very comfortable, though a spirited 7 miles did add 3psi to the pressures), and the gauge behaved exactly as i expected, keeping very close to the oil temperature gauge and giving the readings I expected. Arrived home with it saying 80, left the car idling, opened the bonnet to watch the fans, and waited. After a few seconds the gauge said 92, the fans kicked in, and then kicked out again at 88. Don't forget my car has a turbo, so tends to run a few degrees hotter than yours might.
Conclusion: Bob on, thank you Dave.
I will report again on the higher temperature ranges when i do my next track day, or if I get some traffic driving on a very hot day.
Photos if they are of any interest:
Innocent looking location after disconnecting everything I could
Temperature gauges on arriving home from my 7 mile test drive
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