Jobs, Progress and Questions!

Jobs, Progress and Questions!

Author
Discussion

Monsterlime

Original Poster:

764 posts

111 months

Thursday 29th August
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Thank you!

Belle427

3,887 posts

178 months

Thursday 29th August
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Sorry but I can only find one and it is indeed a 6.8K ohm rating, I think that is the ecu one as Steve says.

Monsterlime

Original Poster:

764 posts

111 months

Thursday 29th August
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Ok, great, thank you. I'll test mine and confirm they are doing what they should.

LLantrisant

427 posts

104 months

Saturday 31st August
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Monsterlime said:
New bolt (90mm) arrived yesterday and in an unexpected moment of quiet, fitted it. Now the coil doesn’t flop about, but I made sure not to tighten it too far, mainly just enough to secure the coil bracket.

Simple things make stuff just feel better. I’ll replace the other bolts with nice shiny ones after I have the Plenum off.

all bolts looks to be inox, besides the one holding the coil-bracket...its a galvanized......which immediately identifies the typical "built in a shed at home" mentality.

do it once , do it right.

there is no excuse :" but i could get the longer bolt for the moment just in galvanized" "i will change it later" "its just a temporary solution"

i beg it will be there even in 3 years.



Edited by LLantrisant on Saturday 31st August 08:49

Monsterlime

Original Poster:

764 posts

111 months

Saturday 31st August
quotequote all
LLantrisant said:
all bolts looks to be inox, besides the one holding the coil-bracket...its a galvanized......which immediately identifies the typical "built in a shed at home" mentality.

do it once , do it right.

there is no excuse :" but i could get the longer bolt for the moment just in galvanized" "i will change it later" "its just a temporary solution"

i beg it will be there even in 3 years.



Edited by LLantrisant on Saturday 31st August 08:49
Ok, so this is my ignorance, why is galvanised bad? I was intending on replacing all of the bolts with those, I got a set, when I take the Plenum off.

Having a 1 year old doesn’t leave huge amounts of time so I need to choose my battles as it were. wink

Most things I’ve done so far are when I’m supposed to be working and the wife is out!

Classic Chim

9,366 posts

94 months

Saturday 31st August
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Hide the bank details but just buy stainless bolts and be done with it wink
Adds a nice touch.



TwinKam

1,245 posts

40 months

Saturday 31st August
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Stainless bolts aren't expensive nowadays, plenty of suppliers on the Bay; I have found Kays to be good quality and value, well stocked and fast....oh and buy a box of assorted (stainless) washers while you're at it... wink ... use especially where slotted holes are concerned.
Don't omit to use Copaslip where stainless bolts are into aluminium.

Monsterlime

Original Poster:

764 posts

111 months

Saturday 31st August
quotequote all
Ok, got it smile

I didn’t actually buy them because they were cheap, I got them because they were the right size, so have no issue changing to stainless.

The cost isn’t really the problem, it’s the deliveries! The wife hates having more stuff in the house! eBay is good because I can send it to Argos and pick it up when she isn’t around!

Monsterlime

Original Poster:

764 posts

111 months

Tuesday 3rd September
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You will all be delighted to know, I am sure, that a set of stainless bolts, washers and copper grease is all winging its way to my nearest Argos so I can sneak it past the Mrs and fix my heinous error. biggrin

Unfortunately buying things is currently the only "work" I have had time to do, for now.

Monsterlime

Original Poster:

764 posts

111 months

Tuesday 3rd September
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Time this morning was found for some work!

Reading the Bible, Mr Heath says that if BOTH lamba's are showing an error then it is likely the heater supply to both probes. So I thought I would check the fuse for the heater, and of course, after looking at various fuse box layouts, mine seems to adhere to this one (it is a 1997 car) -



However, as you can see from my actual fuse box, the "Blank" one above has a 10AMP fuse in it. Also, the slot (14) that is for the heater has a 20AMP fuse in it, not a 15. My heater fan works, but I haven't had a chance to run the car out to check the heat from it, and the fuse is not blown, but this concerns me that it may have killed both lambda sensors. I'll put a 15AMP fuse in, and will try and get my probes into the back of the lambda's themselves when I can run the car next (I don't really want to start buying new lambda's if I don't have to, and the US Ebay seller, Global Automotive doesn't appear to have any, I did ask them).



I checked all of the 15 amp fuses and the one in slot 6 was blown, so I put a replacement in (seemed odd that it was the alarm and hazards, they worked fine, when I broke down), and I hadn't worked out which layout my fuse box was while in there. It was a cheapy one though so I need to source some decent ones - any suggestions on a good fuse supplier?

Basically, my fuse box layout is confusing me. Am I right in thinking someone has put the wrong fuses in some slots?

Moving on from there, I decided to check the 2 resistors from the coil to the ECU and rev counter. OOOOOHH boy.



The otherside was worse. I sprayed some contact cleaner on them, and into the connections to/from the loom and then cleaned up the resistor contacts fully. The insides of the connectors looked fine though.

One resistor reads spot on, the other seems to be a bit high. Both have identical part numbers on them, so they should be the same. I got no reading at all from the one reading high before I cleaned it up.





I'll go ahead and see if I can find some replacements. I'm going to wrap them up once replaced as well, to try and prevent that corrosion again.

Loubaruch

804 posts

143 months

Tuesday 3rd September
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Rimmer brothers appear to stock them:

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-DRC1752LP?gclid=EAI...

Monsterlime

Original Poster:

764 posts

111 months

Tuesday 3rd September
quotequote all
Loubaruch said:
Rimmer brothers appear to stock them:

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-DRC1752LP?gclid=EAI...
Thank you! And wow they are more expensive than I thought they would be.

phillpot

15,215 posts

128 months

Tuesday 3rd September
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Would something like these do the job (value should be 6.8)?....... resistors


Edited by phillpot on Tuesday 3rd September 14:37

Sardonicus

16,310 posts

166 months

Tuesday 3rd September
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Way to heavy duty for the job of those resistors

Steve_D

12,523 posts

203 months

Tuesday 3rd September
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Monsterlime said:
........Reading the Bible, Mr Heath says that if BOTH lamba's are showing an error then it is likely the heater supply to both probes. So I thought I would check the fuse for the heater, and of course, after looking at various fuse box layouts, mine seems to adhere to this one (it is a 1997 car) -.........
The lambda heaters are not fused. They are a direct supply from the fuel pump relay (white/orange wires). the fuse that supplies the relay has to be OK or the fuel pump would not work. If the Lambda heaters are not getting +12V then you may have the wrong type relay.

Steve

Monsterlime

Original Poster:

764 posts

111 months

Tuesday 3rd September
quotequote all
Steve_D said:
The lambda heaters are not fused. They are a direct supply from the fuel pump relay (white/orange wires). the fuse that supplies the relay has to be OK or the fuel pump would not work. If the Lambda heaters are not getting +12V then you may have the wrong type relay.

Steve
Ok, thank you.



Both are the same, and Googling seems to indicate they are the right ones. Will check the lambda's directly next chance I get.

Penelope Stopit

4,932 posts

54 months

Tuesday 3rd September
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I'm as certain as can be that one fuel pump relay terminal 87 supplies the pump and the other fuel pump relay terminal 87 supplies the Lambda sensors

The thing is, when turning the ignition on that relay is only momentarily switched on to prime the fuel system, once the engine starts the relay is switched back on and remains on

An easy mistake to make when testing for a supply to the Lambda Sensors is to test when the engine isn't running

You could test them by connecting a long lead test lamp to a Lambda Sensor supply cable and watch the lamp when turning the ignition on.....the lamp should momentarily switch on. The other way to test for the Lambda Sensor supply is to do it with the engine running but be careful.....hands and fingers....you know

Penelope Stopit

4,932 posts

54 months

Tuesday 3rd September
quotequote all
6.8 Ohms 5 Watt rating will do the job, probably get away with quarter Watt

There is a mouser UK depot, well there was, not used them in a while


https://eu.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Resistors...

phillpot

15,215 posts

128 months

Wednesday 4th September
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Sardonicus said:
Way to heavy duty for the job of those resistors
But would that do any harm?


Belle427

3,887 posts

178 months

Wednesday 4th September
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Here is the 14 cux diagram, as you can see lambdas are fed from fuel pump relay terminal 87a.