Trying to fall in love again

Trying to fall in love again

Author
Discussion

TV8

3,122 posts

175 months

Wednesday 28th August 2019
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Franky boy said:
Hi,

Direct leads no extenders, got rid of them ages ago, using heat socks to prevent heat damage.

Cheers

Frank
Decent leads I assume.

Franky boy

Original Poster:

110 posts

164 months

Wednesday 28th August 2019
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Yes

Belle427

8,964 posts

233 months

Wednesday 28th August 2019
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You need to verify your timing figures to make it worthwhile.
Usually with full vacuum you could leave it set at 12 degrees btdc, adding full vacuum to this should add another 6 degrees, taking it to roughly 18 degrees at idle. It did on mine anyway.
Make yourself a large cup of tea and have a read.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

Franky boy

Original Poster:

110 posts

164 months

Wednesday 28th August 2019
quotequote all
Cheers Belle, two tea's down and still going!

fausTVR

1,442 posts

150 months

Thursday 29th August 2019
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OP, I've only quickly scanned the thread so far, as I've just washed mine and about to hop in for trundle. Has anyone yet mentioned the ECU temperature sender? I thought this was recently discovered to be at the root of the shunting with many cars, they do go out of range with age and this is said to be the easiest cure often times. I'm not in here that much but it wasn't long ago raised. Good luck anyway.

Franky boy

Original Poster:

110 posts

164 months

Thursday 29th August 2019
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Last time I used rovergauge the temps where pretty much the same, on screen and dash, but will have another look.

Cheers

JD1000

11 posts

56 months

Tuesday 24th September 2019
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As Squirrelofwoe said - talk to plenty of people first before changing cams - well, I have done that and it seems everyone has a different opinion....
Mine is a stock standard 96 Chimaera 4.0 (not HC) with 21,000kms only.
I want to upgrade to hottest street cam - any recommendations please?

I am only interested in low end torque/0-100km/h acceleration - car will not be used on the track at all.
Currently, I am doing a full decat, removing the MAF, boring the plenum intake to 72mm +/- and fitting the Link system, and perhaps fiddling around inside the plenum.
Later next year (time permitting) I will fit a twin rotor M90 Eaton or similar - just because it sounds good.
The experienced local TVR expert (last count 9 TVRs in his workshop) recommends the 5.0 litre cam and says pocketed pistons are NOT necessary.
Seems the standard cam specs are not available (TVR intellectual property apparently!) so I don't how much of an improvement the replacement cam will give me.

So any advice on what/where to buy would be highly appreciated.

phazed

21,844 posts

204 months

Tuesday 24th September 2019
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When I had my 4.6 L I had a real steel typhoon camshaft.

Remainder of the specifications was similar to what you are going to do.

72 mm plenum
Usual smoothbore intake mods.
All cats removed
Standard cylinder heads
Still working with the old 14 CUX

This gave a realistic 275 bhp figure on a realistic rolling road .

Pistons were standard 4 L and not pocketed.

Edited by phazed on Tuesday 24th September 10:41

Belle427

8,964 posts

233 months

Tuesday 24th September 2019
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I squeezed just about 270 bhp out of my 400, that was with heads, plenum, intake, trumpets and cam.
The car is very streetable and pulls well low down, cam is a V8D Mc1.
No piston pockets needed.
Not a company I'd be in any rush to use again though but their parts are very good.
Real steels offerings look very good and decent value.

Edited by Belle427 on Tuesday 24th September 10:31

JD1000

11 posts

56 months

Monday 30th September 2019
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Thanks so much for your help guys - I'll most likely go with the Real Steel Typhoon option then. As well as (presumably) the high rev lifters, although not sure I'll ever be doing many high revs. No Autobahns around here!
Just ordering replacement (Protech) shocks which seem to come recommended on the forum.
Jon

markcoopers

595 posts

193 months

Monday 30th September 2019
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Bit late to the party on this tread but my POV on a few comments raised.

I have a 5L car, an early 96 Mk1 with about 63k on the clock that i became the custodian of about 15 months ago. The first job i did was pack it off to Joolz for an Emerald ECU swap. Now i will be the first to point out that it RR'ed at 303bhp and was working well, so perhaps did not "need" a new ECU, but i did not want that falling out of love experience from dealing with these kind of issues. The Kit replaces all the 1970's electrics, but uses new Peugeot coils and a replacement Bosch stepper motor. I am pleased with the results as it means i can jump in and it fires up and just works.

I did think about MS and fitting it myself having done this recently on an MX5 and various Kit cars over the years......All of which reminded me the Kit is never quite the complete kit, it never quite works in your application and needs a tweek that at best means a delay and worst complete frustration and that falling out of love feeling. With the MX5 we had an issue with the EUC, in that it was missing an internal wire and could not see the VTPS working, ths took 3 weeks to sort with various photos between the ECU builder, me and a friend who had it on his driveway in bits........You get what you pay for.

Lastly i have owned previously a Z4M roadster. Wonderful car and does everything a modern easy living roadster should. I came to it following a stripped out Westfield and not surprisingly it lacked the driver involvement and drama......it was sold on within 6 months. I know today that if i went back to one, it would answer all the issues i may have around falling out of love with the TVR, but it would equally not give me any reason to fall into love with it like the TVR does. Seems odd to write this, but the Z4m seems very vanilla in the car world these days