Chim - buying advice
Discussion
Echo the above, I drove 5 or 6 in just over a week. They were all very different.
In the end I brought one from TopCats. It was spot on and I got new outriggers as part of the deal. It didn't put a foot wrong in all the time I owned it and wasn't much more than the private cars I looked at.
They are not known for selling cars but its worth dropping Warren a line because he looks after a lot of cars so he might know of something coming up to suit your time frame.
In the end I brought one from TopCats. It was spot on and I got new outriggers as part of the deal. It didn't put a foot wrong in all the time I owned it and wasn't much more than the private cars I looked at.
They are not known for selling cars but its worth dropping Warren a line because he looks after a lot of cars so he might know of something coming up to suit your time frame.
Here is a MKII for a starter.
http://tonygilbertcars.co.uk/listing/tvr-chimaera-...
I thought about it and popped in unannounced one day earlier in the year to see where his place was but it was a foul day and neither of us wanted to uncover it in the wind and rain.
http://tonygilbertcars.co.uk/listing/tvr-chimaera-...
I thought about it and popped in unannounced one day earlier in the year to see where his place was but it was a foul day and neither of us wanted to uncover it in the wind and rain.
Most people who can afford one, don't mind paying more for a dealer, so more than most cars, there's a big difference in price. Some dealers sell dodgy motors, so that's no guarantee, but if you're in the Bristol Area, check out Amore Autos... you'll get 100% honest advice.... you can look over their cars, and they will actively put you OFF buying if it's not right for you... they want 100% happy customers.
You can get a good one for 12k private or dealer... at that price, dealer is likely to be Mk1, or 80k miles plus, you might get 50k miles, Mk2 private for the same money. Remember a 14k Private advert, might well sell for 12k!
If in doubt, find someone to take... or check out a local meet, see TVRCC for details, someone will help you out, as the TVR community is somewhat unique.
You can get a good one for 12k private or dealer... at that price, dealer is likely to be Mk1, or 80k miles plus, you might get 50k miles, Mk2 private for the same money. Remember a 14k Private advert, might well sell for 12k!
If in doubt, find someone to take... or check out a local meet, see TVRCC for details, someone will help you out, as the TVR community is somewhat unique.
magooagain said:
Wasn't that up for for sale for ages in Cheshire? Certainly reads as the same car.The bloke who's selling it has had about 20 last ever TVR's
Looks a lovely example, but if it was me paying that kind of money for a 400 I would personally go for a higher mileage 'restored' car than an ultra low mileage one that is still on completely original chassis & engine- regardless of how few miles it's done and how it's been kept.
That might just be me though. I'd feel pig sick if I paid top money and then still ended up having to shell out for an engine re-fresh or fitting the new outriggers within a couple of years.
Also, regarding Chim's in general, I'd never feel totally comfortable paying a premium for low miles on a model of car that is well known for sticking odometers.
I'll readily admit though that 3 years and £7k+ spent on my Chim since purchase has made me quite risk averse...
That might just be me though. I'd feel pig sick if I paid top money and then still ended up having to shell out for an engine re-fresh or fitting the new outriggers within a couple of years.
Also, regarding Chim's in general, I'd never feel totally comfortable paying a premium for low miles on a model of car that is well known for sticking odometers.
I'll readily admit though that 3 years and £7k+ spent on my Chim since purchase has made me quite risk averse...
Squirrelofwoe said:
Looks a lovely example, but if it was me paying that kind of money for a 400 I would personally go for a higher mileage 'restored' car than an ultra low mileage one that is still on completely original chassis & engine- regardless of how few miles it's done and how it's been kept.
That might just be me though. I'd feel pig sick if I paid top money and then still ended up having to shell out for an engine re-fresh or fitting the new outriggers within a couple of years.
Also, regarding Chim's in general, I'd never feel totally comfortable paying a premium for low miles on a model of car that is well known for sticking odometers.
I'll readily admit though that 3 years and £7k+ spent on my Chim since purchase has made me quite risk averse...
That might just be me though. I'd feel pig sick if I paid top money and then still ended up having to shell out for an engine re-fresh or fitting the new outriggers within a couple of years.
Also, regarding Chim's in general, I'd never feel totally comfortable paying a premium for low miles on a model of car that is well known for sticking odometers.
I'll readily admit though that 3 years and £7k+ spent on my Chim since purchase has made me quite risk averse...
Cracked me up
If you fancy an ornament that’s a great car to buy. It does look rather nice and quite a rare thing if it’s as solid as it looks.
No engine bay or chassis pics.
Couldn’t agree more.
Edited by Classic Chim on Monday 4th November 16:26
Squirrelofwoe said:
Looks a lovely example, but if it was me paying that kind of money for a 400 I would personally go for a higher mileage 'restored' car than an ultra low mileage one that is still on completely original chassis & engine- regardless of how few miles it's done and how it's been kept.
That might just be me though. I'd feel pig sick if I paid top money and then still ended up having to shell out for an engine re-fresh or fitting the new outriggers within a couple of years.
Also, regarding Chim's in general, I'd never feel totally comfortable paying a premium for low miles on a model of car that is well known for sticking odometers.
I'll readily admit though that 3 years and £7k+ spent on my Chim since purchase has made me quite risk averse...
I'd agree with that 100% and is exactly what I did with my recently acquired Chimaera 500. On paper it has done 85k miles but in reality it is almost a new car with 4k miles after a circa £20k refurb. Better than a car costing much more with less paper miles IMHO.That might just be me though. I'd feel pig sick if I paid top money and then still ended up having to shell out for an engine re-fresh or fitting the new outriggers within a couple of years.
Also, regarding Chim's in general, I'd never feel totally comfortable paying a premium for low miles on a model of car that is well known for sticking odometers.
I'll readily admit though that 3 years and £7k+ spent on my Chim since purchase has made me quite risk averse...
To highlight the importance of thoroughly checking the outriggers....
I sold my Chimaera a couple of months ago after being told by a TVR Dealership and a well respected TVR 'guru' that the outriggers were shot and holes were evident. They even looked dodgy to me so I decided to cut my losses and sell it, with the buyer aware of the condition of the outriggers.
The car is now for sale again (but not with the person I sold it to) with a large mark-up and with a 'completely solid and waxoyled chassis',and I know for a fact that the chassis is still original, so some poor sod will have an unexpected bill for £2k if he doesn't carry out a thorough check underneath and scrape away the waxoil in the usual areas.
I sold my Chimaera a couple of months ago after being told by a TVR Dealership and a well respected TVR 'guru' that the outriggers were shot and holes were evident. They even looked dodgy to me so I decided to cut my losses and sell it, with the buyer aware of the condition of the outriggers.
The car is now for sale again (but not with the person I sold it to) with a large mark-up and with a 'completely solid and waxoyled chassis',and I know for a fact that the chassis is still original, so some poor sod will have an unexpected bill for £2k if he doesn't carry out a thorough check underneath and scrape away the waxoil in the usual areas.
And just to add to the outrigger discussion...
My Chimaera is a 2000 reg on original outriggers.
Naturally, I was concerned as to their condition so decided to have all the Waxoyl stripped off and the thorough inspection done by a TVR specialist.
They reported "The chassis and outriggers are solid with only the slightest remedial work required to the chassis jacking points. I can comfortably say they are the best original outriggers and chassis I've seen on a car of this age and mileage".
As as a result I had the jacking points cleaned and treated with POR15 and then re waxoyled.
So why has his chassis lasted?
Maybe because it's a later car - not in the troublesome 98/99 period for chassis corrosion.
Its been garaged stored for most of its life and certainly for the last 12 years having met the two previous owners.
Its not often got wet.
I avoid driving on salty roads.
It's been waxoyled treated (which I know can hide a multitude of sins, but not in this case).
However, I know that when I come to sell I may have to get the outriggers replaced as most people would be suspicious of a 20 year old car on originals....
Just thought it worth reporting that some outriggers do survive into old age !!!
My Chimaera is a 2000 reg on original outriggers.
Naturally, I was concerned as to their condition so decided to have all the Waxoyl stripped off and the thorough inspection done by a TVR specialist.
They reported "The chassis and outriggers are solid with only the slightest remedial work required to the chassis jacking points. I can comfortably say they are the best original outriggers and chassis I've seen on a car of this age and mileage".
As as a result I had the jacking points cleaned and treated with POR15 and then re waxoyled.
So why has his chassis lasted?
Maybe because it's a later car - not in the troublesome 98/99 period for chassis corrosion.
Its been garaged stored for most of its life and certainly for the last 12 years having met the two previous owners.
Its not often got wet.
I avoid driving on salty roads.
It's been waxoyled treated (which I know can hide a multitude of sins, but not in this case).
However, I know that when I come to sell I may have to get the outriggers replaced as most people would be suspicious of a 20 year old car on originals....
Just thought it worth reporting that some outriggers do survive into old age !!!
Perhaps the outrigger issue, is relative to what time of the year that the chassis was made. Chassis that stood outside during damp cold winter months with no protective coating will corrode faster than those made in the summer especially with the salty sea air of Blackpool.
I have had the pleasure of owning 8 TVR's that were made in the 98/99 period and none of them have had serious chassi issues - bar scrape back the powder coat where required and paint with white hammerite and application of waxoyl.
I have had the pleasure of owning 8 TVR's that were made in the 98/99 period and none of them have had serious chassi issues - bar scrape back the powder coat where required and paint with white hammerite and application of waxoyl.
JimTC said:
And just to add to the outrigger discussion...
My Chimaera is a 2000 reg on original outriggers.
Naturally, I was concerned as to their condition so decided to have all the Waxoyl stripped off and the thorough inspection done by a TVR specialist.
They reported "The chassis and outriggers are solid with only the slightest remedial work required to the chassis jacking points. I can comfortably say they are the best original outriggers and chassis I've seen on a car of this age and mileage".
As as a result I had the jacking points cleaned and treated with POR15 and then re waxoyled.
So why has his chassis lasted?
Maybe because it's a later car - not in the troublesome 98/99 period for chassis corrosion.
Its been garaged stored for most of its life and certainly for the last 12 years having met the two previous owners.
Its not often got wet.
I avoid driving on salty roads.
It's been waxoyled treated (which I know can hide a multitude of sins, but not in this case).
However, I know that when I come to sell I may have to get the outriggers replaced as most people would be suspicious of a 20 year old car on originals....
Just thought it worth reporting that some outriggers do survive into old age !!!
Its good to hear your outriggers are solid..........problem is it's not just the outriggers, its the rest of the chassis also.My Chimaera is a 2000 reg on original outriggers.
Naturally, I was concerned as to their condition so decided to have all the Waxoyl stripped off and the thorough inspection done by a TVR specialist.
They reported "The chassis and outriggers are solid with only the slightest remedial work required to the chassis jacking points. I can comfortably say they are the best original outriggers and chassis I've seen on a car of this age and mileage".
As as a result I had the jacking points cleaned and treated with POR15 and then re waxoyled.
So why has his chassis lasted?
Maybe because it's a later car - not in the troublesome 98/99 period for chassis corrosion.
Its been garaged stored for most of its life and certainly for the last 12 years having met the two previous owners.
Its not often got wet.
I avoid driving on salty roads.
It's been waxoyled treated (which I know can hide a multitude of sins, but not in this case).
However, I know that when I come to sell I may have to get the outriggers replaced as most people would be suspicious of a 20 year old car on originals....
Just thought it worth reporting that some outriggers do survive into old age !!!
As you say, even with solid outriggers if i was in the market to buy, i would go for one that has had a full body lift and outrigger replacement, irrespective of how good an owner says the chassis is.
Personal choice, but i would rather see the chassis on a TVR without any waxoyl any where near it, because it just hides problems.
I sure the waxoyl on your car is hiding nothing, .............but it is there.
All the welds on my chassis were rusty, not because of salty roads etc, but simply because none of the welds were cleaned before powder coating.
The main pic of my chassis shows waxoyl all along the main box section rails, and once this was all cleaned off, it exposed all the rust on the welds.
They are all going to look like this, hence the use of waxoyl to hide, and also to possibly prevent further rust / corrosion.
The pictures are of my chassis and knowing how they rust, especially on ALL of the welds, convinced me that a full chassis repair, blast and paint [NOT POWDERCOAT] was the only way to go.
As the OP says...." some outriggers do last into old age ' this is true, but it is only a matter of time.
As you can see, a lot of advice, opinion and wisdom! Don't be put off, buy with your eyes wide open and expect that something will need fettling sooner or later and you'll not be disappointed. The best comment I think that I've seen re outriggers is that "they are to be regarded as a service item" - at some point in the life of the car, they are probably going need replacing.
Just to add my two penn'orth....
First of all, I bought my Chim from a dealer (Amore). Yes, I possibly paid a little bit more than I might have done in a private sale, BUT I got great service, the opportunity to look at several cars at once, and a warranty. I'm pretty 'hands-on' with regards to maintenance and repair and also bought the car to drive as much as possible. I bought the car knowing that it needed some cosmetic tidying (e.g.carpets) but happy that I had a bit of a project to work on. Over the next couple of months I uncovered a couple of things that weren't quite right but not immediately apparent (worn water pump, clutch slave cylinder starting to leak). I contacted Amore who said, "no problem, book it in to a specialist and get it sorted". I was happy to do the work myself, bought the parts from a specialist supplier and Amore reimbursed me straight away. Over the fist winter of ownership, I decided to strip out the front suspension to clean/paint/check the bushes etc. When I stripped off the lower wishbones, there was a lot of corrosion around the rear mount on both sides - near impossible to see even if the car was on a ramp. Although it was over six months since since I'd bought the car, I spoke to Amore, as the corrosion couldn't have 'appeared' that quick. "Not a problem - Get new ones". Now that's what I call service, and a very good reason to buy from a reputable dealer.
Second - Look for a car that's actually been driven on the road. These cars are like boats - they need to be used. A car that's never seen a raindrop might look vet pretty, but it might also have a hissy fit it you drive it in the rain or sit in traffic and leak like a sieve if it stands outside. The outrigger conundrum will be debated forever, but they are a straightforward fix IF needed. Speak to owners who have experienced cars which cut out for no reason, 'shunt' at low speed or have near-untraceable electrical issues, and then you'll have a more balanced overview of ownership. A car that has been well-maintained (not necessarily by a specialist, but make sure that there's a comprehensive service log and receipts) and well used - not abused - would always get my vote over a snowflake car.
I started off TVR ownership with an S3, then a Chimaera. I also (somehow) now seem to have a Tuscan which I bought privately, eyes-wide-open, earlier this year. It was in "great condition, always garaged, only 3000 miles in the last ten years". Right. By the end of negotiations, I was happy that I was in a sensible place price-wise as I expected a fair amount of recommissioning. Yes it had a current MoT, Yes it has a (partial) service history (including an engine rebuild). Yes the first owner (I'm the third) seems to have been very 'particular' about their car - BUT there's work to be done. Electrical gremlins, suspension sorting, 7mm tread on perished tyres, peeling powder coat on wishbones. One possible down-side of buying a car from a dealer is that you don't always get to talk to a previous owner - a little-used car might not turn out to be a reliable as you would hope.
And finally - with a good suspension set-up, standard ignition in good order and a specialist ECU setup these cars are a jot to drive. Look for a car where the previous owner has paid attention to the little things that make driving the car a memorable experience for all of the right reasons.
Hope this helps. Good hunting.
Just to add my two penn'orth....
First of all, I bought my Chim from a dealer (Amore). Yes, I possibly paid a little bit more than I might have done in a private sale, BUT I got great service, the opportunity to look at several cars at once, and a warranty. I'm pretty 'hands-on' with regards to maintenance and repair and also bought the car to drive as much as possible. I bought the car knowing that it needed some cosmetic tidying (e.g.carpets) but happy that I had a bit of a project to work on. Over the next couple of months I uncovered a couple of things that weren't quite right but not immediately apparent (worn water pump, clutch slave cylinder starting to leak). I contacted Amore who said, "no problem, book it in to a specialist and get it sorted". I was happy to do the work myself, bought the parts from a specialist supplier and Amore reimbursed me straight away. Over the fist winter of ownership, I decided to strip out the front suspension to clean/paint/check the bushes etc. When I stripped off the lower wishbones, there was a lot of corrosion around the rear mount on both sides - near impossible to see even if the car was on a ramp. Although it was over six months since since I'd bought the car, I spoke to Amore, as the corrosion couldn't have 'appeared' that quick. "Not a problem - Get new ones". Now that's what I call service, and a very good reason to buy from a reputable dealer.
Second - Look for a car that's actually been driven on the road. These cars are like boats - they need to be used. A car that's never seen a raindrop might look vet pretty, but it might also have a hissy fit it you drive it in the rain or sit in traffic and leak like a sieve if it stands outside. The outrigger conundrum will be debated forever, but they are a straightforward fix IF needed. Speak to owners who have experienced cars which cut out for no reason, 'shunt' at low speed or have near-untraceable electrical issues, and then you'll have a more balanced overview of ownership. A car that has been well-maintained (not necessarily by a specialist, but make sure that there's a comprehensive service log and receipts) and well used - not abused - would always get my vote over a snowflake car.
I started off TVR ownership with an S3, then a Chimaera. I also (somehow) now seem to have a Tuscan which I bought privately, eyes-wide-open, earlier this year. It was in "great condition, always garaged, only 3000 miles in the last ten years". Right. By the end of negotiations, I was happy that I was in a sensible place price-wise as I expected a fair amount of recommissioning. Yes it had a current MoT, Yes it has a (partial) service history (including an engine rebuild). Yes the first owner (I'm the third) seems to have been very 'particular' about their car - BUT there's work to be done. Electrical gremlins, suspension sorting, 7mm tread on perished tyres, peeling powder coat on wishbones. One possible down-side of buying a car from a dealer is that you don't always get to talk to a previous owner - a little-used car might not turn out to be a reliable as you would hope.
And finally - with a good suspension set-up, standard ignition in good order and a specialist ECU setup these cars are a jot to drive. Look for a car where the previous owner has paid attention to the little things that make driving the car a memorable experience for all of the right reasons.
Hope this helps. Good hunting.
^^^^^ What a great honest post that is.
Today my car has taken its journey to the garage I’m using to remove the body to replace out riggers.
There’s nothing much wrong with them other than one 1 mm hole which I actually provoked into finding by bashing away with a hammer, the point is it might be a small hole but it’s there.
Having spent 7-8 years replacing all the bolt on bits and pieces including new Ecu etc etc I’ve arrived at a car I didn’t really think possible in so much as the clutch is very light, starts in any weather and drives as perfectly as I imagine it could.
Honestly getting a decent set of all weather tyres have added a final touch of much needed class comfort and most importantly road holding.
It’s not one individual thing that’s made the difference but including new Dif all these things combine, my friend had a brand new Chim in 96 32k I think he paid for it and then a Cerb and finally 3 Tuscans, he drove my car today and pronounced it the best Tvr he’s ever driven as an overall package which gobsmacked me as he’s not generous with comments at any time!
I sometimes think mine must drive about as good as it gets but then remember I’ve seen a lot of very nice Tvr at meets and clearly many other owners have great cars so that’s pure arrogance but I do sometimes wonder if many are this easy to drive and as enjoyable to drive.
It’s these reasons why I persist,,
The oddest thing is this flash bloke comes into my mates place, loads a money and then goes on about his 50k Porsche which is now worth 32k and costing him thousands in repairs. I didn’t bother asking him what was wrong, he was ranting like a good un....
He was down on all things Porsche including some of the people repairing them so it just goes to show,,, he even mentioned low mileage examples as being a bigger risk than ones where mileage has proved it to be reliable, wouldn’t touch them was his response. He’s own Porsche for years so really a very informed chap.
I thought about my little Tvr that’s fast as hell itself,, all for less than half that money and that’s with all the mods including engine rebuild and even a pleb like me can repair it, well some of 
Today my car has taken its journey to the garage I’m using to remove the body to replace out riggers.
There’s nothing much wrong with them other than one 1 mm hole which I actually provoked into finding by bashing away with a hammer, the point is it might be a small hole but it’s there.
Having spent 7-8 years replacing all the bolt on bits and pieces including new Ecu etc etc I’ve arrived at a car I didn’t really think possible in so much as the clutch is very light, starts in any weather and drives as perfectly as I imagine it could.
Honestly getting a decent set of all weather tyres have added a final touch of much needed class comfort and most importantly road holding.
It’s not one individual thing that’s made the difference but including new Dif all these things combine, my friend had a brand new Chim in 96 32k I think he paid for it and then a Cerb and finally 3 Tuscans, he drove my car today and pronounced it the best Tvr he’s ever driven as an overall package which gobsmacked me as he’s not generous with comments at any time!
I sometimes think mine must drive about as good as it gets but then remember I’ve seen a lot of very nice Tvr at meets and clearly many other owners have great cars so that’s pure arrogance but I do sometimes wonder if many are this easy to drive and as enjoyable to drive.
It’s these reasons why I persist,,
The oddest thing is this flash bloke comes into my mates place, loads a money and then goes on about his 50k Porsche which is now worth 32k and costing him thousands in repairs. I didn’t bother asking him what was wrong, he was ranting like a good un....
He was down on all things Porsche including some of the people repairing them so it just goes to show,,, he even mentioned low mileage examples as being a bigger risk than ones where mileage has proved it to be reliable, wouldn’t touch them was his response. He’s own Porsche for years so really a very informed chap.
I thought about my little Tvr that’s fast as hell itself,, all for less than half that money and that’s with all the mods including engine rebuild
and even a pleb like me can repair it, well some of Edited by Classic Chim on Tuesday 26th November 11:12
Edited by Classic Chim on Tuesday 26th November 11:13
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