Another body off thread.
Discussion
Talking about gravity fed, all brake bleed screws opened including clutch slave cyl and draining away nicely.
Steering column disconnected from rack.
Handbrake cable detached from handle.
Speed sensor disconnected and wiring un cable tied from chassis and tucked up where it feeds through body.
Wiring coming from front o/s headlight loom fed back and tucked up by radiator opening. This is actually carbon canister charge wire and oil pressure switch wire. Carbon canister hose disconnected. Decided going into wing was unnecessary, cut pipe and will use a two way connector in future.
All other wiring disconnected and tucked up around wipers for now.
I’ve been around whole car, it’s all free and ready to lift bar 4 way hydraulic connectors on o/s body, handbrake and that’s it far as I can tell
I’ve learnt the hard way not to tempt fate,,, maybe tomorrow I try and separate chassis from body. Wish me luck.
A few photo’s
Question
1 handbrake has what looks like two retaining bolts to chassis, both marked in my picture, do both of these have to come out?
Speed sensor wiring
N/s earth point
Left and right side of wiring loom
She’s ready,,,,,,,
Steering column disconnected from rack.
Handbrake cable detached from handle.
Speed sensor disconnected and wiring un cable tied from chassis and tucked up where it feeds through body.
Wiring coming from front o/s headlight loom fed back and tucked up by radiator opening. This is actually carbon canister charge wire and oil pressure switch wire. Carbon canister hose disconnected. Decided going into wing was unnecessary, cut pipe and will use a two way connector in future.
All other wiring disconnected and tucked up around wipers for now.
I’ve been around whole car, it’s all free and ready to lift bar 4 way hydraulic connectors on o/s body, handbrake and that’s it far as I can tell
I’ve learnt the hard way not to tempt fate,,, maybe tomorrow I try and separate chassis from body. Wish me luck.
A few photo’s
Question
1 handbrake has what looks like two retaining bolts to chassis, both marked in my picture, do both of these have to come out?
Speed sensor wiring
N/s earth point
Left and right side of wiring loom
She’s ready,,,,,,,
Edited by Classic Chim on Saturday 7th December 20:20
Edited by Classic Chim on Saturday 7th December 21:58
A few more for memory 
Steering shaft and rack splined shaft.
I had to knock shaft back towards steering wheel so forcing lower UJ ( shown in pic) back a few extra mm then loosen rack bolts enough to move rack forwards enough to then swear a bit pull and tug then eventually the two separate.
Steering shaft and rack splined shaft.
I had to knock shaft back towards steering wheel so forcing lower UJ ( shown in pic) back a few extra mm then loosen rack bolts enough to move rack forwards enough to then swear a bit pull and tug then eventually the two separate.
ks and it’s easy,,,, I’ve decided Steve’s tall axle stands idea to rest body on is my preferred way, the tall stands making it easier on my back when getting underneath after partial lift to see if anything’s snagging,,, nice
My only concern here is,,, will the floor support the body weight ok.
Steve if I understand this correctly do I use chocks of wood on stands to spread the load, placing chocks / stands so weight is being applied on edges of floor where they go vertical as in picture.
This idea on all 4 corners.
My only concern here is,,, will the floor support the body weight ok.
Steve if I understand this correctly do I use chocks of wood on stands to spread the load, placing chocks / stands so weight is being applied on edges of floor where they go vertical as in picture.
This idea on all 4 corners.
Other important notes for consideration.
Lift body with doors shut and roof on.
Support rear of body when resting it on trolley just under the boot. (The rear of the car is heavy and can open up gaps at the top of the doors if not supported properly ) reliably informed, thanks Jay. Try and keep doors closed.
Lift body with doors shut and roof on.
Support rear of body when resting it on trolley just under the boot. (The rear of the car is heavy and can open up gaps at the top of the doors if not supported properly ) reliably informed, thanks Jay. Try and keep doors closed.
Classic Chim said:
I’ve decided Steve’s tall axle stands idea to rest body on is my preferred way, the tall stands making it easier on my back when getting underneath after partial lift to see if anything’s snagging,,, nice
My only concern here is,,, will the floor support the body weight ok.
Steve if I understand this correctly do I use chocks of wood on stands to spread the load, placing chocks / stands so weight is being applied on edges of floor where they go vertical as in picture.
This idea on all 4 corners.
I used some home made box section supports, 6 off them in total. 2 each side, one under the front and one at the rear. My only concern here is,,, will the floor support the body weight ok.
Steve if I understand this correctly do I use chocks of wood on stands to spread the load, placing chocks / stands so weight is being applied on edges of floor where they go vertical as in picture.
This idea on all 4 corners.
I jacked the car as high as possible, placed the six supports under the body and then lowered the chassis down.
I then used a scaffold frame and timber under the wheel arch to raise the body high enough to "roll out" the chassis.
Now this is the important bit i then lowered the body back down onto the 6 supports and it stayed that way under a cover for about 4 to 6 months.
As others have said, keep the doors closed and the roof on, and support the front and rear, not just the centre section of the body.
Classic Chim said:
I’ve decided Steve’s tall axle stands idea to rest body on is my preferred way, the tall stands making it easier on my back when getting underneath after partial lift to see if anything’s snagging,,, nice
My only concern here is,,, will the floor support the body weight ok.
Steve if I understand this correctly do I use chocks of wood on stands to spread the load, placing chocks / stands so weight is being applied on edges of floor where they go vertical as in picture.
This idea on all 4 corners.
Yes undo both bolts on the handbrake lever. You can leave it on the chassis but it does not release from the gaiter easily so best left hanging in the body.My only concern here is,,, will the floor support the body weight ok.
Steve if I understand this correctly do I use chocks of wood on stands to spread the load, placing chocks / stands so weight is being applied on edges of floor where they go vertical as in picture.
This idea on all 4 corners.
Make your wood blocks as wide as possible to spread the load. You may not be able to position the stands as close to the body edge as you would like because when the chassis is down on its wheels the chassis parts have got to clear the spread of the axle stand legs. In your picture where you have drawn the block try and imagine the base of the axle stand fitting where your block is. It may not be an issue for you as your stands will not be as big. Ours are ex army so have quite a spread as can be seen in my earlier pictures.
Re. taking the load it will be OK but you would not want to leave it like that for any length of time. In this case as soon as the chassis is back down on its wheels you are going to reposition the ramp arms under the body and continue the lift from there so your blocks and stands are now redundant.
When you put the body down onto your trolley you can either lay it on a couple of lengths of 4x2 and use those to support the boot or just support the main body on the trolley, wheel it to where it will be stored, then just use a baulk of timber and a bottle jack under the boot. The front does not need support unless you plan for your chassis to take a very long time.
There is a surprising difference in body stiffness. Some cars don't show any significant sag whilst others we can't get support under there fast enough.
Steve
Thanks Steve, I’ve got all that. I know it’s sunday.
Your advice has helped tremendously as has everyone who’s offered support.
Thanks Dave, will do re pictures
TJC very impressive given its on your drive way and again Thankyou.
I’ve often looked at your profile and wondered if your a bit sadistic as it says you enjoyed every minute of your body off experience
I totally get you now
Who mentioned sleepless nights,,,, yep that too, I’m knackered from lying there trying to photo frame everything so I remember what the hell i’m doing putting it back together down the line, this is the easy bit.
For me I’ve separated it into various categories.
Basically disconnect
Front end
Rear end
Interior
Engine bay
Etc so broken down into smaller segments making it easier to remember. We’ll see.
I’m nervous now. Here goes. TTFN.
Your advice has helped tremendously as has everyone who’s offered support.
Thanks Dave, will do re pictures
TJC very impressive given its on your drive way and again Thankyou.
I’ve often looked at your profile and wondered if your a bit sadistic as it says you enjoyed every minute of your body off experience
I totally get you now
Who mentioned sleepless nights,,,, yep that too, I’m knackered from lying there trying to photo frame everything so I remember what the hell i’m doing putting it back together down the line, this is the easy bit.
For me I’ve separated it into various categories.
Basically disconnect
Front end
Rear end
Interior
Engine bay
Etc so broken down into smaller segments making it easier to remember. We’ll see.
I’m nervous now. Here goes. TTFN.
Steve D from Southways Tvr idea with axle stands is spot on. This is easy as a one man operation but used my friend who knows a thing or two to operate lift as I checked everything was free.
Other than rear section carbon canister hose that still had cable ties attaching it to chassis,, der which took seconds to remove nothing caught at all.
The most stressful bit was well not very stressful. Thanks again the tips and advice have saved a lot of headaches.
Body came free very easily using the stands to support body and using the ramp to lower chassis away.
Then simply re position ramp arms to lift body clear and roll chassis away.
Other than rear section carbon canister hose that still had cable ties attaching it to chassis,, der which took seconds to remove nothing caught at all.
The most stressful bit was well not very stressful. Thanks again the tips and advice have saved a lot of headaches.
Body came free very easily using the stands to support body and using the ramp to lower chassis away.
Then simply re position ramp arms to lift body clear and roll chassis away.
Edited by Classic Chim on Sunday 8th December 21:23
Edited by Classic Chim on Monday 9th December 00:26
Now the fun really starts. 
Sardonicus said:
Well done Alun 
look at those nice tidy mechanical's
look at those nice tidy mechanical's I especially like my exhaust ports, well the nice clean heads anyway Yeah a good base to start with.
It’s not the late basket case I’ve always believed it to be
Top tube powder coat like new over most of it
Riggers are rot city though.
Pictures won’t load, maybe PH has a max capacity per day ?
Dave85chim said:
Good going Alun!
What a difference some space makes!
Are you painting the chassis?
Thanks mate What a difference some space makes!
Are you painting the chassis?
Makes a huge difference.
Body is now moved over and out the way in the corner. It’s a big space alright.
I’ve not taken a pic yet but two things come to mind, ok three
Door gaps only increased about 2-3mm if that using the axle stands,
Trolley we’ve used with a few bits of wood have supported it also keeping gaps minimal. Well chuffed there.
Oh and it’s not very heavy.
Yes paint chassis but by a pro most likely, taking engine and gearbox out first after a proper evaluation of the frame first. Tuesday will be informative.
That’s it I’m done.
25/28 hrs working time maybe, double that without the facilities.
Frank helping and Garry Townsend my great friend offering his garage and time when I needed it.
I’m glad he let me just get on with it because I could concentrate really well just buzzing around the car from job to job on my list.
I have to stress, my car has had a lot of work done in the past, the front half especially has been totally renewed other than my Mexico labelled gearbox
even the dif has been in and out so almost everything I've touched has come free really nicely. Rotten bolts being the exception but that’s no buggy really.
Steve_D said:
Well done Alun.
Sat here waiting for the next questions.
Steve
Hahahah Sat here waiting for the next questions.
Steve
and Thankyou Steve. Mt friend builds stockcars, brand new stands unopened
What a crack that was.
I told my mate to leave me alone for a few hours while I cut wood and finished off separating handbrake and 4 way union on body for hydraulics.
I only asked him back in when everything was in place and I’d already dropped chassis a few inches, I’m so glad you mentioned the spread of the axle stand legs,,,,, I got that spot on with a level
Get that wrong and your lowering the chassis onto them so that is really the only consideration,
My fears of body weight was unfounded, the floor easily supports it with big chocks of wood, the front with no bonnet is very light.
I’m sure there will be plenty of questions
I love my Chassis, I think they look chunky as hell. Looks good with the 17’s and bigger than standard tyres.
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