Another body off thread.
Discussion
It’s so unfair,, I have to do all the hard slog for the rest of us,, all 3 of us 
And your leaving
Now Brexit is settled we can get on,,,, surely it will pick up now we are on a new exciting path and everyone will be modding their cars and doing trackdays again.. probably still are but on Facebook.
And your leaving
Now Brexit is settled we can get on,,,, surely it will pick up now we are on a new exciting path and everyone will be modding their cars and doing trackdays again.. probably still are but on Facebook.
Well I would like to add to the forum but am quite a way off with progress or lack of i'll start in the spring but just getting brackets TIG'ED up etc for my Megasquirt MS3X upgrade (different logic VAG coil packs) and the new diff build is finalised and ready for the final assy (no more set/up dummy builds) may even get the later tail housing fitted to the Tremec T5 , not spending hours after work in the evening messing around with this stuff its too cold and not physical enough to keep warm and I spend enough hours here already roughing it 
once the weather turns I'll be back on the plan
once the weather turns I'll be back on the plan Edited by Zener on Tuesday 17th December 14:52
Classic Chim said:
My car is almost 20 years old.
I’d say the riggers have been on there way out from as little as 5 years old based on the levels of rot. Other than the front o/s corner most of it does grind back to real steel but very thin.
Then you have the top side of the chassis which looks like new overall. Very odd.
It’s impossible to say as each car lives a different life.
Anything living up north or near a sea is going to be prone,,, so that’s all of us then
The bottom picture of the mid section which looks and is well rotten, even that grinded back to steal so although well shot still actually intact if only about 1 mm thick.
Its an interesting one Alun, your outrotters are clearly shot but the rest of your chassis seems pretty mint from look of it and that's where all the structural strength is.I’d say the riggers have been on there way out from as little as 5 years old based on the levels of rot. Other than the front o/s corner most of it does grind back to real steel but very thin.
Then you have the top side of the chassis which looks like new overall. Very odd.
It’s impossible to say as each car lives a different life.
Anything living up north or near a sea is going to be prone,,, so that’s all of us then
The bottom picture of the mid section which looks and is well rotten, even that grinded back to steal so although well shot still actually intact if only about 1 mm thick.
Edited by Classic Chim on Monday 16th December 13:06
It's all about impact damage and chips in the powder coat, once the powder coat is breached corrosion sets in fast, but if it remains intact the steel beneath will last indefinitely. This is why I went with bullet proof epoxy mastic paint not powder coat as its way better at resisting stone chips ect.
Its also why I've gone with outrotter protection, I genuinely feel the use of outrotter protectors and two pack epoxy mastic paint will significanly extend the life these most vulnerable parts of the chassis.
ChimpOnGas said:
Its an interesting one Alun, your outrotters are clearly shot but the rest of your chassis seems pretty mint from look of it and that's where all the structural strength is.
It's all about impact damage and chips in the powder coat, once the powder coat is breached corrosion sets in fast, but if it remains intact the steel beneath will last indefinitely. This is why I went with bullet proof epoxy mastic paint not powder coat as its way better at resisting stone chips ect.
Its also why I've gone with outrotter protection, I genuinely feel the use of outrotter protectors and two pack epoxy mastic paint will significanly extend the life these most vulnerable parts of the chassis.
Both are the way forward, rigger protection,, a friend has a plan... I dunno what it is yet but that’s a way off my radar for now. It's all about impact damage and chips in the powder coat, once the powder coat is breached corrosion sets in fast, but if it remains intact the steel beneath will last indefinitely. This is why I went with bullet proof epoxy mastic paint not powder coat as its way better at resisting stone chips ect.
Its also why I've gone with outrotter protection, I genuinely feel the use of outrotter protectors and two pack epoxy mastic paint will significanly extend the life these most vulnerable parts of the chassis.
Wherever there is a breach or chipped bit there’s rust, but if you clean it back it usually only takes a bit before your back to bonded powdercoat and zero rust. Depends how long it’s been getting attacked, if it’s been oil coated it does sort of protect it far better.
I agree painted properly and protected riggers you could fully expect another 20 years use.
The Tvr Chassis is a meaty bit of kit, I do love it’s tough guy image
It’s a damn good thing and saves you in a crash,,, sort of !
Thanks for the encouragement chaps 
Tvr wasn’t to concerned with 20 years down the line, not even 10 in all honestly, if the powder coat is adhered to a freshly blasted chassis I’m sure it lasts longer, in cases where some poor owners chassis was up a wall awaiting collection for powdercoat who knows how long any of them were powder coated directly without blasting... in some cases almost every weld shows signs of powdercoat breaking down and rust forming.
Maybe it’s very early life can dictate things years down the line, some owners or most hopefully used them in all weathers when new so it just depends on what life it had from day one. Winter use as we know accelerates corrosion 10 fold if used on salty roads.
Simple deflectors for outrigger protection,,, mud flaps we used to call em solves half your problem,
Simple heat protection around top chassis tubs saves the other.
Chassis should remain sound if looked after,, its when rust forms and left for years thats the real problem. Simple maintenance could have saved a lot of them from more remedial work needing to be carried out now.
Tvr wasn’t to concerned with 20 years down the line, not even 10 in all honestly, if the powder coat is adhered to a freshly blasted chassis I’m sure it lasts longer, in cases where some poor owners chassis was up a wall awaiting collection for powdercoat who knows how long any of them were powder coated directly without blasting... in some cases almost every weld shows signs of powdercoat breaking down and rust forming.
Maybe it’s very early life can dictate things years down the line, some owners or most hopefully used them in all weathers when new so it just depends on what life it had from day one. Winter use as we know accelerates corrosion 10 fold if used on salty roads.
Simple deflectors for outrigger protection,,, mud flaps we used to call em solves half your problem,
Simple heat protection around top chassis tubs saves the other.
Chassis should remain sound if looked after,, its when rust forms and left for years thats the real problem. Simple maintenance could have saved a lot of them from more remedial work needing to be carried out now.
Englishman said:
Indeed. This is a picture of the ones fitted by the original owner to my SEAC. Outriggers and rest of the chassis still fine after 32 years!
:A picture paints a thousand words..
I always liked a tasteful mud flap,, I know the fixings rotted out and rusted holes in the wings back in the day on NORMAL cars,,,,,
Now if that’s not proof if the jobs done correctly,,,,, rigger issues could become a thing of the past,,, for awhile
Wedge, more and more in fashion if you ask me. Top draw and those wheels... speechless
Can anyone help with a link to the threaded bar for seat belt mounts in outrigger on eBay, tried searching and someone even posted it on here somewhere, bugger if I can find it now!
Fuel pipe and R9 fuel hose and brake lines ordered including a new slave pipe.
Christmas coming,, shops closed,, better order some stuff before it’s to late to receive.
The holiday period seems a good a time as any to crack on. I’m a long way off but now things are coming apart I can replace bushes in arms and all those other jobs that come about from a big job like this. You either devote every spare hour or this job will take months.
Rustbuster EM121 2 pack paint ordered.
Make a list this evening...
Fuel pipe and R9 fuel hose and brake lines ordered including a new slave pipe.
Christmas coming,, shops closed,, better order some stuff before it’s to late to receive.
The holiday period seems a good a time as any to crack on. I’m a long way off but now things are coming apart I can replace bushes in arms and all those other jobs that come about from a big job like this. You either devote every spare hour or this job will take months.
Rustbuster EM121 2 pack paint ordered.
Make a list this evening...
Decent fuel hose clips 13/15mm https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/stainless-ste...
Zener said:
Decent fuel hose clips 13/15mm https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/stainless-ste...
Ordered a dozen Handy things
QBee said:
My car is a 99.
Hence the "flaky" outriggers.
Mine had to be replaced in 2013, similar state then to Alun's now.
Car had covered 73,000 miles at the time.
That’s really interesting, 75,000 on mine. Probably a fluke. Hence the "flaky" outriggers.
Mine had to be replaced in 2013, similar state then to Alun's now.
Car had covered 73,000 miles at the time.
Powdercoat and road attack, it’s never going to end well. Clearly where it’s protected from stone and element effect Powdercoat lasts quit well but any area of rubbing or things bouncing off it will break it down fairly quick.
Oh and thanks to Brian Horsfield on facebook I’ve found the 7/16th threaded bar for outriggers. Thanks a million.
Steve_D said:
Keep going Alun..... took another body off this morning.
Steve
Your stamina astounds me Steve. All the bending and leaning over does for me in no time which is a real pity as I love it really. Steve
Thanks I need all the encouraging I can get. Back on it tonight, last corner to remove.
Then Dif then ,,,,,,,,, it goes on forever
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