Another body off thread.
Discussion
Thanks Peter / Simon 
I was almost there 6 months ago looking at it.
I positioned the car and completed the lift as a one man operation in no time using Steve’s large axle stand technique. The higher the better for old man backs and it allows you to see the underside while pressing the button.
As we are savvy builder types once body was lined up with ramp legs I used marker paint on the floor and pencilled in the wheel centres and longitudinal lines of the tyres.
The idea being I will roll chassis back onto those lines and have a chassis almost exactly in line with the body that has not moved from its position on the ramp.
5 mins work to save 30 giggling it around.
Last time it went down very smoothly so now I’m more confident not such a big deal.
Question
What grease should I use with new steering rack gators.
Thanks Al
I was almost there 6 months ago looking at it. I positioned the car and completed the lift as a one man operation in no time using Steve’s large axle stand technique. The higher the better for old man backs and it allows you to see the underside while pressing the button.
As we are savvy builder types once body was lined up with ramp legs I used marker paint on the floor and pencilled in the wheel centres and longitudinal lines of the tyres.
The idea being I will roll chassis back onto those lines and have a chassis almost exactly in line with the body that has not moved from its position on the ramp.
5 mins work to save 30 giggling it around.
Last time it went down very smoothly so now I’m more confident not such a big deal.
Question
What grease should I use with new steering rack gators.
Thanks Al
Classic Chim said:
Progressing steadily.
Finished off engine bay heat matting incl sealing up engine wiring harness bung which had split.
Handbrake cable attached.
PS hyd hose kit from TVR PARTS ONLINE fitted.
New thermostat and gasket
Brake and fuel lines finished including clutch slave pipe fitted.
Fuel filter and fuel hoses from pump to filter to solid fuel line fitted.
Lots of cleaning of engine as car stood outside for 6 months,,, not amusing one bit considering I spent years detailing the bugger.
Under sealed body area where Riggers run and rubbed down my drivers side floor area inside car around seat rear bolt hole which has split slightly.
I will be fibreglassing in an extra big washer and strengthening it in this area tomorrow with the fibreglassing.
After lots of thought I’ve decided adding stone chip to riggers is not such a good idea so I’ll likely use the Dinitrol cans to re black the body underside.
I need to replace gearbox and Dif oils next.
I’m ticking the list of jobs off to do whilst body is off and struggling to find excuses not to put body back on..
I love them as a rolling chassis.
I’ll try and remember to take some photo’s tomorrow
ETA hose clips,,,,, important info lol!
I faff about making sure all hose clips can be accessed and undone easily when body is one. Fuel filter hoses are a classic case. The Dif and chassis tubes make access with the body on very tight so I positioned both fuel filter clips to be able to use an extension from underneath the car. Building it is also about the next time someone needs to work on the car.
It’s so very easy to make mistakes now that are a real problem later down the line so for me this is really important to think ahead and consider these scenarios.
The only thing I’m good at which goes right back to childhood is race preparation.
It’s the excellence that’s required on race bikes that sticks with me to this day. I’m no fabricator but I will do my best to build something and consider what it will be like trying to undo something in a field or pit floor down the line.
Mechanics appreciate this and a Tvr mechanic would suss these cock ups in an eye shot so it’s why it takes time and makes me feel good,
Finished off engine bay heat matting incl sealing up engine wiring harness bung which had split.
Handbrake cable attached.
PS hyd hose kit from TVR PARTS ONLINE fitted.
New thermostat and gasket
Brake and fuel lines finished including clutch slave pipe fitted.
Fuel filter and fuel hoses from pump to filter to solid fuel line fitted.
Lots of cleaning of engine as car stood outside for 6 months,,, not amusing one bit considering I spent years detailing the bugger.
Under sealed body area where Riggers run and rubbed down my drivers side floor area inside car around seat rear bolt hole which has split slightly.
I will be fibreglassing in an extra big washer and strengthening it in this area tomorrow with the fibreglassing.
After lots of thought I’ve decided adding stone chip to riggers is not such a good idea so I’ll likely use the Dinitrol cans to re black the body underside.
I need to replace gearbox and Dif oils next.
I’m ticking the list of jobs off to do whilst body is off and struggling to find excuses not to put body back on..
I love them as a rolling chassis.
I’ll try and remember to take some photo’s tomorrow
ETA hose clips,,,,, important info lol!
I faff about making sure all hose clips can be accessed and undone easily when body is one. Fuel filter hoses are a classic case. The Dif and chassis tubes make access with the body on very tight so I positioned both fuel filter clips to be able to use an extension from underneath the car. Building it is also about the next time someone needs to work on the car.
It’s so very easy to make mistakes now that are a real problem later down the line so for me this is really important to think ahead and consider these scenarios.
The only thing I’m good at which goes right back to childhood is race preparation.
It’s the excellence that’s required on race bikes that sticks with me to this day. I’m no fabricator but I will do my best to build something and consider what it will be like trying to undo something in a field or pit floor down the line.
Mechanics appreciate this and a Tvr mechanic would suss these cock ups in an eye shot so it’s why it takes time and makes me feel good,
QBee said:
I hope it both goes well and gives you pleasure, Alun. Looking forward to seeing you and the car again some time soon. 
I’ve got a fair way to go but I just want it assembled enough to finish commissioning it at home if I run out of ramp time Anthony. One way or another it will be back in my possession by the end of next week which coincides with my Covid first jab so yeah finally.....
phazed said:
What was the fibreglass repair for Alun?
A crack about 2 inches long had developed where the seat mount bolt goes through. I’ve spread the load by adding matting and tomorrow will add more localised layers 100 mm x 100 mm or so just to be sure then use some large washers when bolting seat down. I’m finishing things while it’s on the ramp really. A few details that only showed themselves once it was apart.
Replaced gearbox and Dif oil today though the oil that came out the Dif looked almost new which was a pleasant surprise.
If my experience is anything to go by, don't be too surprised if you're not firing on all 8 the day after your COVID jab.
I got the full range of COVID symptoms, just for 24 hours, including a 38 degree temperature.
All fine the next day.
But then you might not have any issues at all. Good luck
I got the full range of COVID symptoms, just for 24 hours, including a 38 degree temperature.
All fine the next day.
But then you might not have any issues at all. Good luck
QBee said:
If my experience is anything to go by, don't be too surprised if you're not firing on all 8 the day after your COVID jab.
I got the full range of COVID symptoms, just for 24 hours, including a 38 degree temperature.
All fine the next day.
But then you might not have any issues at all. Good luck
Duly noted. I got the full range of COVID symptoms, just for 24 hours, including a 38 degree temperature.
All fine the next day.
But then you might not have any issues at all. Good luck
I’ve not been firing on all cylinders for years mind
QBee said:
If my experience is anything to go by, don't be too surprised if you're not firing on all 8 the day after your COVID jab.
I got the full range of COVID symptoms, just for 24 hours, including a 38 degree temperature.
All fine the next day.
But then you might not have any issues at all. Good luck
Which vaccine did you have?I got the full range of COVID symptoms, just for 24 hours, including a 38 degree temperature.
All fine the next day.
But then you might not have any issues at all. Good luck
The Astra/Zeneca ( Oxford one) has produced after effects in many people I know but the Pfizer vaccine does not appear to have any after effects.
Loubaruch said:
QBee said:
If my experience is anything to go by, don't be too surprised if you're not firing on all 8 the day after your COVID jab.
I got the full range of COVID symptoms, just for 24 hours, including a 38 degree temperature.
All fine the next day.
But then you might not have any issues at all. Good luck
Which vaccine did you have?I got the full range of COVID symptoms, just for 24 hours, including a 38 degree temperature.
All fine the next day.
But then you might not have any issues at all. Good luck
The Astra/Zeneca ( Oxford one) has produced after effects in many people I know but the Pfizer vaccine does not appear to have any after effects.
But I had had COVID about 7 weeks before the jab, so I guess the presence of antibodies in my system may have caused my reaction.
However, when you got onto local neighbourhood forums discussing getting the jab, you find that there are quite a lot who have a moderate reaction to it. A sore shoulder for a few days afterwards is the most common. Other symptoms usually don't last more than a day or so
I don't blame the media for not talking about reactions to the jabs - for once they are being socially responsible, as it would be very wrong to put a large proportion of the population off having the jab just because a few percent of the population have had mild to moderate reactions to it.
Alun,
The body was on my restored Chim' when I got it, but the fuel tank was not so the original chassis fixings were not seen by me.
I needed to replace the hex' bolts with domed headed bolts at the top chassis fixings behind the fuel tank because it was catching the hex' bolts when I came to re-fit it, even though it was dimpled.
Lance
The body was on my restored Chim' when I got it, but the fuel tank was not so the original chassis fixings were not seen by me.
I needed to replace the hex' bolts with domed headed bolts at the top chassis fixings behind the fuel tank because it was catching the hex' bolts when I came to re-fit it, even though it was dimpled.
Lance
lancepar said:
Alun,
The body was on my restored Chim' when I got it, but the fuel tank was not so the original chassis fixings were not seen by me.
I needed to replace the hex' bolts with domed headed bolts at the top chassis fixings behind the fuel tank because it was catching the hex' bolts when I came to re-fit it, even though it was dimpled.
Lance
That’s correct Lance. . The top ones are as per original TVR and domed, the bottom ones should be hex head but these are what I got sent? It’s harder to use the Allen headed on the bottom ones as they are recessed down so using a socket Allen won’t work. I used a standard Allen Key so it’s actually easier to get a spanner on than an Allen key.
Those bolts hold the whole of the backend up, well actually pinch it to the chassis which then takes the load.
The body was on my restored Chim' when I got it, but the fuel tank was not so the original chassis fixings were not seen by me.
I needed to replace the hex' bolts with domed headed bolts at the top chassis fixings behind the fuel tank because it was catching the hex' bolts when I came to re-fit it, even though it was dimpled.
Lance
That’s correct Lance. . The top ones are as per original TVR and domed, the bottom ones should be hex head but these are what I got sent? It’s harder to use the Allen headed on the bottom ones as they are recessed down so using a socket Allen won’t work. I used a standard Allen Key so it’s actually easier to get a spanner on than an Allen key.
Those bolts hold the whole of the backend up, well actually pinch it to the chassis which then takes the load.
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