Another body off thread.
Discussion
TVRSJW said:
Fantastic job ! Alun ! Glad it’s ready to use !
Thanks and yes close now. Need geo setting and headlight reflectors which I have tucked away and a couple of front tyres for MOT and hopefully she starts a new chapter. Car is awaiting trailer which should mean I bring it home tomorrow now and not a moment too soon.
Thanks gents. Good man Dave. That’s a bit of inspiration right there 
That will be great that. When we met your car was still a dream in a way and no engine and mine well I’m just surprised we didn’t fall out of it
Both cars have taken a fair leap forwards.
Alan with your own space it’s great fun. I’d buy another tomorrow If I had a decent space.
It’s really basic in so many ways.
I only made one tool for manifold bolts and the rest is just quality spanners etc.
It says something that I left a few jobs until last.
Steering arm (wrong ) connect it to rack early on as its a nightmare when you have put Y piece in etc first. I can not get the arm on both ends of the splines without first loosening rack bolts and pushing it forwards which is not so simple all connected up!
Handbrake cable and lever. Almost the last thing I did I was dreading it so much.
Obviously connected to calipers and tracked to gearbox area while body was off so easy and infact I’d cleaned out threads in chassis first and connected up handbrake no problem. 20mins later all adjusted up using feel!
My handbrake works on the principle 3 clicks and it’s binding, 4th and its gripping the wheels but requires probably 25 ft of arm torque to pull it upto to forth click so i replicates it’s old feel and it’s perfect as I held it at a steep angle on tilt trailer no problem.
In fact using my vac pump I appear to have no air in my brakes as they are working too though This all needs checking once I have engine running. So a few bleed and leak checks to do once I fit clutch pipe hose and try and run her up.
That’s the acid test afterall.
She’s home though and what a relief. My son gave me a huge hug so somethings gone right lol
That will be great that. When we met your car was still a dream in a way and no engine and mine well I’m just surprised we didn’t fall out of it
Both cars have taken a fair leap forwards.
Alan with your own space it’s great fun. I’d buy another tomorrow If I had a decent space.
It’s really basic in so many ways.
I only made one tool for manifold bolts and the rest is just quality spanners etc.
It says something that I left a few jobs until last.
Steering arm (wrong ) connect it to rack early on as its a nightmare when you have put Y piece in etc first. I can not get the arm on both ends of the splines without first loosening rack bolts and pushing it forwards which is not so simple all connected up!
Handbrake cable and lever. Almost the last thing I did I was dreading it so much.
Obviously connected to calipers and tracked to gearbox area while body was off so easy and infact I’d cleaned out threads in chassis first and connected up handbrake no problem. 20mins later all adjusted up using feel!
My handbrake works on the principle 3 clicks and it’s binding, 4th and its gripping the wheels but requires probably 25 ft of arm torque to pull it upto to forth click so i replicates it’s old feel and it’s perfect as I held it at a steep angle on tilt trailer no problem.
In fact using my vac pump I appear to have no air in my brakes as they are working too though This all needs checking once I have engine running. So a few bleed and leak checks to do once I fit clutch pipe hose and try and run her up.
That’s the acid test afterall.
She’s home though and what a relief. My son gave me a huge hug so somethings gone right lol
Boys we know it makes sense.
Two things
Firstly mechanics are hard hard men.
Secondly the epoxy paint is Quality.
It’s rock hard and as Chimp on Gas used to mention, it seems bonded in such a way as to be connected to the steel.
Sadly the painter was a bit blind but only on wishbones which are old anyway. I have 1/2 litre of paint left over so some final touch up here and there but the chassis looks mint underneath.
I dropped an open ended spanner 19mm clean off the rigger rail from 4 ft high with a very loud donk. Crapped myself then could not even find an imprint mark. It just bounced off.
It’s not like paint at all.
I think It should last really well.
I know this because if you don’t tap out every hole this paint has entered you will not get a bolt to enter it. Belt the bolt with a hammer to break the paint lock won’t work either.
On the smaller threads The paint will withstand the turning go tight and strip threads before you get through it.
Even with new quality taps this was a proper cutting operation.
I couldn’t believe how tight even the taps were. You could hear them cutting so 1/4 turn in 1/2 turn out or tap would bind and likely break as they were so tight.
Pure strength of the paint.
Another basic example was the handbrake handle bolts which I’d screwed into chassis before painting, I had those in a vice and wire brush for minutes to break the paint down! I almost gave in and looked for new bolts.
Amazing stuff.
Two things
Firstly mechanics are hard hard men.
Secondly the epoxy paint is Quality.
It’s rock hard and as Chimp on Gas used to mention, it seems bonded in such a way as to be connected to the steel.
Sadly the painter was a bit blind but only on wishbones which are old anyway. I have 1/2 litre of paint left over so some final touch up here and there but the chassis looks mint underneath.
I dropped an open ended spanner 19mm clean off the rigger rail from 4 ft high with a very loud donk. Crapped myself then could not even find an imprint mark. It just bounced off.
It’s not like paint at all.
I think It should last really well.
I know this because if you don’t tap out every hole this paint has entered you will not get a bolt to enter it. Belt the bolt with a hammer to break the paint lock won’t work either.
On the smaller threads The paint will withstand the turning go tight and strip threads before you get through it.
Even with new quality taps this was a proper cutting operation.
I couldn’t believe how tight even the taps were. You could hear them cutting so 1/4 turn in 1/2 turn out or tap would bind and likely break as they were so tight.
Pure strength of the paint.
Another basic example was the handbrake handle bolts which I’d screwed into chassis before painting, I had those in a vice and wire brush for minutes to break the paint down! I almost gave in and looked for new bolts.
Amazing stuff.
Edited by Classic Chim on Monday 29th March 15:32
And while I’m thinking about the pain of some of it 
The single best tip I can think of is do what pro’s do and use copper slip on every single nut and bolt.
It’s not only good practice it saves hours and I do mean hours tightening up otherwise very tight bolts that bind or snag. Exhaust manifolds being an example. Trying to do up one of those bolts only half way in with a spanner... it ain’t happening I tell you. I managed to get mine on and fairly tight by hand to the point I was only a turn or two away with a spanner to tight. That saved at least an hr each side.
I have done manifolds in the past dry,,, I’d learnt my lesson.
I also used copper slip on my Y piece so when clamping them up they slide together with a firm hand palm rather than a mallet. That took 10 mins that way.
This single good practice saved me many hours I think. Even expansion bottle threads are tight after years of corrosion so it’s just a lot easier and way faster.
The single best tip I can think of is do what pro’s do and use copper slip on every single nut and bolt.
It’s not only good practice it saves hours and I do mean hours tightening up otherwise very tight bolts that bind or snag. Exhaust manifolds being an example. Trying to do up one of those bolts only half way in with a spanner... it ain’t happening I tell you. I managed to get mine on and fairly tight by hand to the point I was only a turn or two away with a spanner to tight. That saved at least an hr each side.
I have done manifolds in the past dry,,, I’d learnt my lesson.
I also used copper slip on my Y piece so when clamping them up they slide together with a firm hand palm rather than a mallet. That took 10 mins that way.
This single good practice saved me many hours I think. Even expansion bottle threads are tight after years of corrosion so it’s just a lot easier and way faster.
Loubaruch said:
Thanks Alun for taking the time to document everything. A valuable resource for any other owner contemplating a body off rebuild.
Excellent job!
Thanks Paul. Excellent job!
Doing a thread is a pain in the arse but I now find vital.
A few weeks ago now I pulled body off to actually finish it and was not sure where to start.
My head was full of this important detail and that...
I came home and went to the start of this thread, ignored most of what I wrote but the first pictures were so important because they were all detail of how she was. I’m a bit anal on having things how Powers Performance built it as engine has bent out before.
If anyone knows how to route things it’s those type of people who have learnt the hard way so wiring etc took me ages farting about. I like the O/E look so want it to be the same exactly lol.
This not only reminded me of how it should look it also meant I could remember in what order to rebuild it.
I followed a very good online description to take it apart.
I rebuilt it largely from memory after I read the first weeks pages on here.
I just had a clear vision from then on.
It’s so much work though. Pros do it for 10k all in. It’s cheap that
900T-R said:
A vastly underappreciated fact. There are so many hours in there, just getting away from you as you try to line up everything properly so the bolts will get in, or find previous work/bodges that throw you off course...
I’ve always considered myself lucky my car was just original Tvr bodges as it never really had a spanner on it in its first 10 years of life other than services. My hat goes off to anyone who does this for a living.
One other thing which helped keep a clear line of vision was to write down lists of things still to do as I was semi completing things. Some things are in place but not finished until something else meets it so before moving on i’d jot down what was still required to finish that area so when returning to it often days after I could easily pick up on what was still to do and slowly tick them off the list.
I saved a lot of head scratching by doing that.
This is the point. It’s so easy to miss small details when you have so many of them to address as your memory will fail you.
I would often take my note book home at night just to re cap and I would remember some of this detail and quickly jot it down.
These very basic back of a fag packet type notes were invaluable and saved me standing there each morning scratching my head.
Before I started after such a long lay off I laid out or separated various boxes of bits and just from that alone I could see roughly what to do.
I left this what looks like a random pile next to the car and watched it slowly reduce.
I only really made one obvious error that I’m aware of when forgetting to put Injector clips on.
Again I only realised this the next day when I looked at both my box of bits and the labelled tubs of fixings and I saw what we all know to be the darn inj clips that clip over fuel rail.
Thankfully I was able to put them on in situ by removing plenum and loosening injector rail.
I would often take my note book home at night just to re cap and I would remember some of this detail and quickly jot it down.
These very basic back of a fag packet type notes were invaluable and saved me standing there each morning scratching my head.
Before I started after such a long lay off I laid out or separated various boxes of bits and just from that alone I could see roughly what to do.
I left this what looks like a random pile next to the car and watched it slowly reduce.
I only really made one obvious error that I’m aware of when forgetting to put Injector clips on.
Again I only realised this the next day when I looked at both my box of bits and the labelled tubs of fixings and I saw what we all know to be the darn inj clips that clip over fuel rail.
Thankfully I was able to put them on in situ by removing plenum and loosening injector rail.
Edited by Classic Chim on Tuesday 30th March 07:59
I have a black torch which is also essential at times. I took longer looking for it than using it
Good news.
She’s running first turn of the key
Petrol in, pulled a plug to be sure I had spark and it tried to fire whilst checking.
Plug back in and boomed into live and idled beautifully.
I’ve cocked up one manifold gasket as it’s leaking and had one small drip from a water hose but other than that no drama at all.
No fuel line issues of power steering leaks.
Only ran here a few times until temp read 50d so need to run her again whilst bleeding water system.
Oil pressure good.
One happy boy.
Straight out the box. That’s mega.
Good news.
She’s running first turn of the key
Petrol in, pulled a plug to be sure I had spark and it tried to fire whilst checking.
Plug back in and boomed into live and idled beautifully.
I’ve cocked up one manifold gasket as it’s leaking and had one small drip from a water hose but other than that no drama at all.
No fuel line issues of power steering leaks.
Only ran here a few times until temp read 50d so need to run her again whilst bleeding water system.
Oil pressure good.
One happy boy.
Straight out the box. That’s mega.
I was admiring the RS3 yesterday and looking forward to the ride funny enough.
I hope I can still get RS3 in 17s for the front as I will need some.
If anyone wants my old fronts 215/45/27 which have bad wear lines on the inside edge ( my fault) Anthony your welcome to have them for trackdays when I get a new pair sorted out. Other than the wear they are like new really.
The only time I’ve sat in the car for over 16 months was to move it on/ off trailer on Monday.
Just moving backwards and using my brakes left me feeling very impressed.
You know years ago I added a washer or two so lowering my steering wheel just enough for the car to fit me like a glove.
It’s like an old friend I can’t wait to meet again.
All through my TVR time I always felt my car was nearly there but like most had the nagging outrigger issue looming which really is depressive if you can’t really afford such things easily,, that’s crap I chose ecu and engines instead
Getting old in spirit isn’t an option.
Right now I keep just having a quick look under the car to see the riggers are still there
And it’s a confidence inspiring thing for future development.
I now have completely rusted headlight reflectors ( pita ) job a knackered speedo and a totally US dashboard which is mostly damage caused by it standing all winter outside,
Non of this happens if you just use the car a bit. And that’s the moral of this story.
What I don’t want to do now is become too precious over the car so though I like seeing the shiny white paint I want to use the car so will be further weather protecting it.
Possibly the easiest way to stop muck and water forming on top of the rigger tubes is to simply use a mastic block between the rigger and body about two inches back from the front corners. That with some wax oil type product would keep them pretty safe as road grime gets funnelled back along this line. Your just blocking the path so it gets pushed down and away instead.
I hope I can still get RS3 in 17s for the front as I will need some.
If anyone wants my old fronts 215/45/27 which have bad wear lines on the inside edge ( my fault) Anthony your welcome to have them for trackdays when I get a new pair sorted out. Other than the wear they are like new really.
The only time I’ve sat in the car for over 16 months was to move it on/ off trailer on Monday.
Just moving backwards and using my brakes left me feeling very impressed.
You know years ago I added a washer or two so lowering my steering wheel just enough for the car to fit me like a glove.
It’s like an old friend I can’t wait to meet again.
All through my TVR time I always felt my car was nearly there but like most had the nagging outrigger issue looming which really is depressive if you can’t really afford such things easily,, that’s crap I chose ecu and engines instead
Getting old in spirit isn’t an option.
Right now I keep just having a quick look under the car to see the riggers are still there
And it’s a confidence inspiring thing for future development.
I now have completely rusted headlight reflectors ( pita ) job a knackered speedo and a totally US dashboard which is mostly damage caused by it standing all winter outside,
Non of this happens if you just use the car a bit. And that’s the moral of this story.
What I don’t want to do now is become too precious over the car so though I like seeing the shiny white paint I want to use the car so will be further weather protecting it.
Possibly the easiest way to stop muck and water forming on top of the rigger tubes is to simply use a mastic block between the rigger and body about two inches back from the front corners. That with some wax oil type product would keep them pretty safe as road grime gets funnelled back along this line. Your just blocking the path so it gets pushed down and away instead.
Good news.
All systems are up and running.
Brakes/ clutch oil and temps all showing good numbers.
Fans kicking in and out.
Replaced exhaust manifold gasket and she’s running quiet.
Seats installed.
Ready for a test drive to check brakes and clutch work properly but both feel good with engine running.
Power steering is working.
No leaks
I’m going to set camber as it looks like a Hillman Imp at the back but only enough to test drive it a few yards.
Interior consol and gear-lever gibbons to do but I’ll not do anything now until the car has moved under its own steam.
Steve,Frank, Peter, Anthony,Simon, lots and lots of people I need to thank. Thank you for supporting my effort. It’s simply true I would not have done this without the technical and emotional support.
Thankyou.
All systems are up and running.
Brakes/ clutch oil and temps all showing good numbers.
Fans kicking in and out.
Replaced exhaust manifold gasket and she’s running quiet.
Seats installed.
Ready for a test drive to check brakes and clutch work properly but both feel good with engine running.
Power steering is working.
No leaks
I’m going to set camber as it looks like a Hillman Imp at the back but only enough to test drive it a few yards.
Interior consol and gear-lever gibbons to do but I’ll not do anything now until the car has moved under its own steam.
Steve,Frank, Peter, Anthony,Simon, lots and lots of people I need to thank. Thank you for supporting my effort. It’s simply true I would not have done this without the technical and emotional support.
Thankyou.
phazed said:
Well done Alun. Look forward to seeing a few pictures of it finally completed.
I definitely will be having a barbecue in the summer so you better make sure it’s running well by then!
I couldn’t help myself so drove round the block. Awesome feel. Geo and wheel spacers to go on but she still goes like the wind, brakes and clutch feel lovely. I definitely will be having a barbecue in the summer so you better make sure it’s running well by then!
I just need to get over the effects of Covid lockdowns which have cost me dearly but hopefully she will be moted before too long.
Gearbox slots into reverse better than ever, no grinding or difficulty whatsoever and just feels slick with new oil.
It feels like it’s brand new
I can relax now phew.
Famous last words ,,,,, It’s a Tvr.
![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/p9PVTESo.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/n1rpeJsv" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/n1rpeJsv.jpg)
Edited by Classic Chim on Tuesday 13th April 19:15
Edited by Classic Chim on Tuesday 13th April 19:26
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