Aftermarket Ecu warm up enrichment
Discussion
I think you are a rare person if you think that waiting a few engine turns is somehow more important than the potential for bore washing.
I don't have access to any new cars to see how quickly they start up, the newest car I own is a 52 plate .. but I suspect the rapid startup is because the combination of multiple missing teeth on the flywheel and the incorporation of cam sensors allows more rapid locking on to the crank sync than we can have with our 36-1 tooth crank trigger wheels - ie the first squirt of a full sequential system might be less than a full engine turn. BUT - It certainly isn't because they are injecting fuel into a stationary engine.
I put a very low priority on many of the reasons you have stated and therefore this thread has become one of those agree to disagree moments for me.
I'm obviously nowhere near as much of a petrolhead as you
I don't have access to any new cars to see how quickly they start up, the newest car I own is a 52 plate .. but I suspect the rapid startup is because the combination of multiple missing teeth on the flywheel and the incorporation of cam sensors allows more rapid locking on to the crank sync than we can have with our 36-1 tooth crank trigger wheels - ie the first squirt of a full sequential system might be less than a full engine turn. BUT - It certainly isn't because they are injecting fuel into a stationary engine.
I put a very low priority on many of the reasons you have stated and therefore this thread has become one of those agree to disagree moments for me.
I'm obviously nowhere near as much of a petrolhead as you
"Starts On The Button" thats old sales patter Dave it just means it starts and runs ..... sometimes 
like mentioned already maybe I'm missing something 
a second or two to burst into life whats the difference ? maybe I got lucky (doubt it) but I've never felt the need to shorten the cranking further and I also dont want to unleash a gobful of fuel into the intakes on a cold engine if its not necessary with piston rings and bores that may of drained of oil over a long period in fact thats the last thing you want
like mentioned already maybe I'm missing something a second or two to burst into life whats the difference ? maybe I got lucky (doubt it) but I've never felt the need to shorten the cranking further and I also dont want to unleash a gobful of fuel into the intakes on a cold engine if its not necessary with piston rings and bores that may of drained of oil over a long period in fact thats the last thing you want In reality, does anyone know how far the fuel gets from a single 60ms squirt? I'm not talking here of multiple ignition on offs, just a normal start up, turn the key, wait a moment whilst the pump runs, crank the engine.
It is, after all, described as a wall wetting and not a bore washing priming pulse.
It is, after all, described as a wall wetting and not a bore washing priming pulse.
Dougal9887 said:
In reality, does anyone know how far the fuel gets from a single 60ms squirt? I'm not talking here of multiple ignition on offs, just a normal start up, turn the key, wait a moment whilst the pump runs, crank the engine.
It is, after all, described as a wall wetting and not a bore washing priming pulse.
Well that depends where that cylinder is in its cycle so could be shot behind a closed valve or straight over an open valve , like I say I would rather not have a shot-full of anything if not necessary and especially not before the motor cranking , struggling to see why we are into 4 pages for an issue that IMO dont exist or need fixing It is, after all, described as a wall wetting and not a bore washing priming pulse.
Edited by Zener on Wednesday 8th July 11:00
Not much further than a closed or partially opened valve I’d suspect, obviously into and on top a piston on an open valved inlet port.
It’s an odd one for sure.
Some sense in it but no sense in every time ignition switch gets turned on especially as we have to do that to open boot etc.
If it’s related to temperature surely it won’t happen unless engines very cold anyway.
Just seems nuts to think you could flood the engine through turning ignition on and off too many times before actually attempting to fire it.
I think the after market ecu deliver more than enough fuel with better injectors etc for a start up. Mine requires no throttle at all really and it has no stepper motor, basic tickover is low at 750 revs and it still starts on a cold wet day. I introduce revs slowly from that point on as oil starts moving, it works really well, no cam rattle from higher uncontrolled revs after initial start which I always got on the old system with raised revs using stepper motor.
Timing is the key here I reckon as a layman.
Why do these ecu have these tables to use if you’d rather not in reality is my question!
It’s an odd one for sure.
Some sense in it but no sense in every time ignition switch gets turned on especially as we have to do that to open boot etc.
If it’s related to temperature surely it won’t happen unless engines very cold anyway.
Just seems nuts to think you could flood the engine through turning ignition on and off too many times before actually attempting to fire it.
I think the after market ecu deliver more than enough fuel with better injectors etc for a start up. Mine requires no throttle at all really and it has no stepper motor, basic tickover is low at 750 revs and it still starts on a cold wet day. I introduce revs slowly from that point on as oil starts moving, it works really well, no cam rattle from higher uncontrolled revs after initial start which I always got on the old system with raised revs using stepper motor.
Timing is the key here I reckon as a layman.
Why do these ecu have these tables to use if you’d rather not in reality is my question!
Discussion.... The action or process of talking about something in order to exchange ideas.
Typically those involved in the discussion may not agree, opinions are subjective, as such we shouldn't always expect a black and white answer that defines right or wrong.
I like a car that starts promptly with minimal cranking, others may prefer to hear it churn and churn before the start, there's no right or wrong... it's really just a point of personal preference.
Enjoy your TVRs guys, at the end of the day the real fun only begins after its started and nicely warmed up
Typically those involved in the discussion may not agree, opinions are subjective, as such we shouldn't always expect a black and white answer that defines right or wrong.
I like a car that starts promptly with minimal cranking, others may prefer to hear it churn and churn before the start, there's no right or wrong... it's really just a point of personal preference.
Enjoy your TVRs guys, at the end of the day the real fun only begins after its started and nicely warmed up
ChimpOnGas said:
Discussion.... The action or process of talking about something in order to exchange ideas.
Typically those involved in the discussion may not agree, opinions are subjective, as such we shouldn't always expect a black and white answer that defines right or wrong.
I like a car that starts promptly with minimal cranking, others may prefer to hear it churn and churn before the start, there's no right or wrong... it's really just a point of personal preference.
Enjoy your TVRs guys, at the end of the day the real fun only begins after its started and nicely warmed up
Fair Comment Typically those involved in the discussion may not agree, opinions are subjective, as such we shouldn't always expect a black and white answer that defines right or wrong.
I like a car that starts promptly with minimal cranking, others may prefer to hear it churn and churn before the start, there's no right or wrong... it's really just a point of personal preference.
Enjoy your TVRs guys, at the end of the day the real fun only begins after its started and nicely warmed up
Moving forward a quarter of a century, my daughter's 2019 SEAT stops the engine when the car is stopped at, say, traffic lights, and seems to start it again immediately on releasing the footbrake (it's an auto).
I have not actually counted the churns of the starter, but have never thought it took more than a second or so from cold when she starts it right under my open office window.
What kind of witchcraft are they employing?
I have not actually counted the churns of the starter, but have never thought it took more than a second or so from cold when she starts it right under my open office window.
What kind of witchcraft are they employing?
ChimpOnGas said:
Discussion.... The action or process of talking about something in order to exchange ideas.
Typically those involved in the discussion may not agree, opinions are subjective, as such we shouldn't always expect a black and white answer that defines right or wrong.
I like a car that starts promptly with minimal cranking, others may prefer to hear it churn and churn before the start, there's no right or wrong... it's really just a point of personal preference.
Enjoy your TVRs guys, at the end of the day the real fun only begins after its started and nicely warmed up
What I think we can agree with is after market ECU do offer plenty of control with plenty of features for the tuner to explore. Some engines might be tuned so hard they do indeed need some extra fuel to get the bugger fired up so many of these features must be there for good reason. Typically those involved in the discussion may not agree, opinions are subjective, as such we shouldn't always expect a black and white answer that defines right or wrong.
I like a car that starts promptly with minimal cranking, others may prefer to hear it churn and churn before the start, there's no right or wrong... it's really just a point of personal preference.
Enjoy your TVRs guys, at the end of the day the real fun only begins after its started and nicely warmed up
What I like is how if it’s set up well any after market ecu can run a little old RV8 if the tuner is the nuts and has years of fuel maps for various tunes at his disposal. Best guess maps as my car is a basic 450 base map needed only a few tweaks, more road mapping adjustments than anything. Like two or three runs, self learning has kept it well in tune ever since.
ChimpOnGas said:
Definitely not just to purge the rail 
With regard to this specific point it doesn't matter a jot if you're applying priming pulse to prime the engine on 'Key On' or during cranking.... which being frank is just cranking fuel (and as we all know there's a separate feature for that), if priming pulse really was just there to purge the rail you wouldn't need a declining temp referenced table to calibrate it.
Lets be sensible here, purging the fuel rail by opening the injectors would be a very wasteful strategy, it would also be very poor for emissions and very damaging to both lambda sensor a catalyst life. For all these reasons I guarantee no OEM engine management system would adopt such a strategy, as we know traditional feed and return systems have for a long time now been replaced with the now almost universally adopted returnless system, which in theory should suffer even worse fuel boiling issues.
Toyota adopted the returnless arrangement in the late 1990s with Honda following suit a year or so later, despite no longer benefiting from the fuel tank heat sink effect of the traditional feed and return setup I'd put money on Toyota and Honda still having nothing to do with the wasteful and damaging strategy of opening the injectors to purge the fuel rail of bubbles. Irrespective of when you apply it.... priming pulse is there to prime the engine, if it was to purge the rail it would for sure be called purge pulse.
As was proved pretty much right from the start of internal combustion engine development, an engine will definitely burst into life much more readily and with far less cranking if you introduce some fuel before cranking. Whether you're stabbing the throttle on your DCOE Webers or tickling the Amal on your old Triumph Bonnie the practice of giving the engine a sniff of pre-cranking fuel is as old as the hills, and was only adopted because it worked. If you then put that engine on injection the exact same rules apply and it'll still thank you for a prime (lets call it priming pulse) of fuel..... because at the end of the day its very much still an internal combustion engine.
I was trying to find a good post to quote to comment on this discussion and I think this one is as good as any although not all of my points relate to it.With regard to this specific point it doesn't matter a jot if you're applying priming pulse to prime the engine on 'Key On' or during cranking.... which being frank is just cranking fuel (and as we all know there's a separate feature for that), if priming pulse really was just there to purge the rail you wouldn't need a declining temp referenced table to calibrate it.
Lets be sensible here, purging the fuel rail by opening the injectors would be a very wasteful strategy, it would also be very poor for emissions and very damaging to both lambda sensor a catalyst life. For all these reasons I guarantee no OEM engine management system would adopt such a strategy, as we know traditional feed and return systems have for a long time now been replaced with the now almost universally adopted returnless system, which in theory should suffer even worse fuel boiling issues.
Toyota adopted the returnless arrangement in the late 1990s with Honda following suit a year or so later, despite no longer benefiting from the fuel tank heat sink effect of the traditional feed and return setup I'd put money on Toyota and Honda still having nothing to do with the wasteful and damaging strategy of opening the injectors to purge the fuel rail of bubbles. Irrespective of when you apply it.... priming pulse is there to prime the engine, if it was to purge the rail it would for sure be called purge pulse.
As was proved pretty much right from the start of internal combustion engine development, an engine will definitely burst into life much more readily and with far less cranking if you introduce some fuel before cranking. Whether you're stabbing the throttle on your DCOE Webers or tickling the Amal on your old Triumph Bonnie the practice of giving the engine a sniff of pre-cranking fuel is as old as the hills, and was only adopted because it worked. If you then put that engine on injection the exact same rules apply and it'll still thank you for a prime (lets call it priming pulse) of fuel..... because at the end of the day its very much still an internal combustion engine.
I have the benefit of hindsight here; throughout the discussion slight differences in terminology are mostly responsible for apparent differences of opinion.
There are two things that need to happen to get a good start. The first of these is to prime the fuel rail. i.e. generate some pressure in the rail and purge the rail of any air. The second is to achieve some wall wetting ahead of the first rotations of the crank. The fuel pump prime purges the fuel rail, and the priming pulse width does the wall wetting. These are, on pretty much every ECU, different settings and in different orders of magnitude (fuel pump prime is typically in seconds, whereas priming pulsewidth is in ms).
Priming pulse is not there to purge the fuel rail, it is there to wet the walls, and that is why it has a temperature curve. You don't need a massive prime on a hot engine because the fuel vaporises more readily, but it definitely helps with cold starts.
With that clarification, the only thing left to consider from the discussion is whether a priming pulsewidth should occur before the engine begins to turn. To me it seems obvious that it should only occur when an intent to start the engine is detected. I do know of an ECU that does it at key-on as it's the one I run (and as a result I only have a 2ms priming pulsewidth). I have the luxury of being able to change the software; I've never liked it that way anyway for all the reasons stated earlier in the thread. I think it should probably happen as soon as cranking is detected though (the first or maybe second time a tooth passes the sensor), not when sync is achieved as that can be quite a long time later depending on the trigger wheel in use.
Cranking fuel is different again of course. That is the amount of fuel (typically an enrichment parameter over the base map) that should be used during cranking which in turn is typically based on rpm. The point is you want the first cranking pulse to be different to all the others so a priming pulse that is added to the initial cranking fuel is not just cranking fuel. Cranking fuel and priming pulse have to be separated because of that.
Although I don't know this for certain I suspect different ECUs adopt slightly different strategies to combine cranking and priming pulses. Some might add the priming pulse to the first cranking pulse and do one squirt. Others might do two successive squirts for each of the two durations when cranking is detected, and others might replace the first cranking pulse with the priming pulse duration directly. The strategy being adopted dictates how big that priming pulse might be. If you add priming pulse into the cranking strategy in any of these ways then you have to wait for sync to execute the priming pulse and can't do it as soon as crank movement is detected.
I think one of the reasons people want cars to start quickly is because of that sinking feeling you get when you start cranking and it seems like it isn't going to fire up. Because I don't currently have a large priming pulse mine is one of those cars that cranks a bit before it fires. It always starts, but never quite as soon as you'd hope.
Edited by ric355 on Wednesday 8th July 20:21
QBee said:
Moving forward a quarter of a century, my daughter's 2019 SEAT stops the engine when the car is stopped at, say, traffic lights, and seems to start it again immediately on releasing the footbrake (it's an auto).
I have not actually counted the churns of the starter, but have never thought it took more than a second or so from cold when she starts it right under my open office window.
What kind of witchcraft are they employing?
I have not actually counted the churns of the starter, but have never thought it took more than a second or so from cold when she starts it right under my open office window.
What kind of witchcraft are they employing?
Zener said:
Thousands of hrs in development/perfecting
Which describes my Canems journey well 
I'm my own worse enemy really, my expectations for how my TVR should drive are completely uncompromising, and to obsessive levels measured against OEM modern car standards of refinement. What may be perfectly acceptable to some is disappointingly poor to me, and while there have been frustrations along the way I guarantee you I'm not alone, the real difference is I'm in a the very small group of people who are actually brave enough to lay these challenges bare to all on these pages, where most tend to hide their issues. Comically some confuse this openness with the belief the system I'm working with is poor where the truth is quite the opposite, they then sit smug thinking they've chosen better when the reality is their results are some way behind my own.
But none of that matters if they've met their expectations, its just my expectations and standards are higher. As engine management learning goes I'm still very much primary school level, I removed the unmappable 80's tech engine management system the car came with and went with an aftermarket ECU which while way better as it gives me a lot more control, is at the end of the day really just 1990's engine management tech. All our usual suspect aftermarket ECUs in the RV8 TVR world be it a MegaSquirt, Emerald, MBE or Canems are 90's engine management tech, as such while they are way better than the old 14CUX, if we're honest with ourselves none of these systems can hand on heart be described as cutting edge
. To make things a bit more fun I chose to work with an ancient and very basic internal combustion engine designed in the late 1950's, I then installed a fast road cam, a lightened flywheel, and retained the very compromised 1980's tech V8 fuel injection plenum design. Not content with this I then took things to a whole new level of calibration complexity by making my TVR run on two completely different fuels that have very different behaviors demanding unique fuel and ignition strategies, essentially the car demands I map it twice over, once on petrol and then again on LPG.
My aftermarket ECU journey has been a long one, sometimes frustrating and liberally sprinkled with the disappointing realisation the so called professionals don't always function to the same exacting standards as their customer. But I'm a realist, if you pay £2k for an engine management installation using a system that was largely undeveloped at the time, and installed by a team that all those years ago were clearly learning as they went.... its not unreasonable to expect a few challenges along the way.
Fast forward to today and I'm more or less at the end of my journey and the results are now what I expect, have I achieved something that in every single respects matches a 2020 Honda? No chance, but have I created a TVR that drives infinitely better than when it left Bristol Avenue in 1996? Absolutely I have! At the same time the Canems dual fuel system has allowed me to create a TVR that delivers the petrol cost equivalent of 50mpg which I can 100% confirm to everyone here with their pocket crippling petrol guzzling Chimaeras is absolutely game changing if like me you actually like to drive your TVR on a regular basis.
Is my Chimaera finished? No, but only because no TVR is ever finished and my self imposed obsession with perfection ensures the development never ends, and simply because no matter how good I get it... it can always be a little bit better. However, after years of tuning and hardware improvements to bring the car to its current levels of refinement and daily usability, it's now becoming increasingly clear I've more or less reached the limits of the current system.
On balance and with all the highs and lows taken into consideration, if there's one word that best describes my after market engine management journey, its.... REWARDING! Actually its been hugely rewarding, best of all the significant fuel savings I've enjoyed have ensured it's been a completely free journey too, how many people who have chosen to fit an aftermarket engine management system can say it literally paid for itself in fuel savings, I'd speculate... not many
So where do I go from here, well while I'm keen to learn a new system it certainly wouldn't be another rather basic 1990's tech engine management system like an Emerald or MBE that would only allow me run on expensive petrol anyway, that would actually be a huge step backwards. The step up in technology needs to be a big one, as I consider my the next leg on my engine management learning journey it must be properly future proofed, it needs to full of new exciting features I can individually unwrap one by one as little self learning presents to myself.
All hail the mighty Haltech Elite 2500
This bad boy gives me full LPG and petrol control like the Canems dual fuel system, but replaces the crude semi-sequential operation with fully sequential injection, to give fully sequential injection all I need is to add a single tooth and pickup on the old adapted distributor shaft. For dual fuel functionality I just need to wire both sets of injectors to the same ECU outputs, then by using a changeover relay (87/87a) I can toggle power to either set. The Elite 2500 has 8A injector drivers, so they would be configured for peak and hold to suit my LPG injectors, which will also work for the saturated petrol injectors. When toggling the changeover relay, I would also be putting power into the ECU for a map switch, which will change the injector flow rate/dead time data, and enable the different fuel/ignition correction tables.
Features:
• 8 x Fuel Injection Outputs
• 8 x Ignition Outputs
• 28 x Digital Outputs
• 10 x Analogue Voltage Inputs
• USB Laptop Communications up to 1 MB/s
• 6 x Engine Position Inputs with extensive trigger type support
• Programmable Injector Peak and Hold Currents
• OBDII Capable – Set and clear diagnostic trouble codes, view live engine data
• ESP Calibration Software – Intuitive and easy to use
• Dual CAN Bus communication for OEM and Haltech CAN Expansion
• User definable 5D Tuning – Tune by gear, Cam angle or any channel for ultimate flexibility
• Variable cam control – Independently control up to 4 camshafts Auto tune capabilities –
• Short and Long term fuel, ignition, boost and idle control learning
• Dual Channel Knock Control – with high speed digital filtering for accurate detection
• Multi-fuel Support – Support for Petrol (Gasoline),LPG, Methanol and Ethanol
• E85 Flex Fuel Ready – Direct connection to sensor.
• Closed Loop Boost Control – Multiple Modes – Tune by gear, wheel speed or time
• Closed Loop Idle Control – With learning for consistent idle stability
• Closed Loop 02 Control – Dual bank control for precise tuning
• Anti-Lag and Launch Control – Drag and Rally modes
• Data logging – Up to 40 channels of logging. Sampling rates up to 5ms
• Multi Level Engine Protection – Set limits for sensors and protect your engine
Outputs:
• 8 x Fuel Injector Outputs
– Current controlled injector drivers
– High or Low impedance injector compatible
– Programmable Peak Current – 0A – 8A
– Programmable Hold Current – 0A – 2A
– All spare injector outputs can be used as generic DPOs with 1A Max output.
• 8 x Ignition Outputs
– Over current protected ignition drivers
– Max current 1A per driver
– All spare ignition outputs can be used as generic DPO’s with 1A Max output.
• 6 x Digital Pulsed Outputs
– 5 x Over current protected low side pulsed outputs
– 1 x Dedicated engine control relay output which can control up to 6 relays simultaneously
• 2 x Drive By Wire Outputs
– Over current protected hi / low side motor outputs
– Suits most OEM throttle bodies and pedals
– Max Current 5A per driver
– 1A Average current
– 100KHz Max frequency
• 1 x 4 wire Stepper Motor Control
– Can be configured as 4 x hi / low side outputs
– Max drive current 1A per output
– Max sink current 1A per output
– Over current protected
Inputs:
• 10 x Analogue Voltage Inputs
– 2 are compatible with narrowband O2 sensors
– Switchable 1K Ohm Pull-up resistor for sensors
– Can tolerate up to 20V Max input voltage
– Supports up to 1.5KHz input frequency
• 2 x Engine Position Inputs
– Extensive trigger type support
• 4 x Synchronised Pulsed Inputs
– Supports variable reluctor and digital inputs
– 50KHz Max frequency
– Rated up to 20V Max input voltage
• 2 x Knock Inputs
– Supports piezo knock sensors
– Synchronised to engine position
Communications:
• 1 x CAN Bus communication for Haltech CAN expansion
• 1 x USB connection for programming
Data Logging
• On-board Data Logging, Up to 40 channels
• Fastest Sample Rate 5ms
• 1MB Internal Storage
All this for £2,000 including Haltech's very nicely built 'Premium Loom' that gets you well on the way to wiring the system and takes away an awful lot of usual headaches, things in the aftermarket engine management world have moved on massively in the last few years, offerings from Link, MoTec and Haltech are light years ahead of Canems, Emerald and the basic MBE offered for RV8 TVRs. MegaSquirt is an interesting option that despite it's DIY reputation shouldn't be ignored, I've studied it and what I would say is.. "Typically if you can think it, MegaSquirt can do it!". That's quite exciting to say the least, but the truth is a Haltech Elite 2500 does the same, but in a far better supported package from a professional well established company, the Haltech ESP Calibration Software is also extremely intuitive and easy to use which should always be a critical consideration when choosing an aftermarket engine management system.
The Haltech is without any question a serious step on form the very basic ECUs typically used on our TVRs, the Elite 2500 is a modern, extremely feature rich, and powerful engine management system from a well establish global leader in their field. Unlike some, when you email Haltech for support they actually respond, they also offer excellent YouTube tutorials to get you started and more complex software lessons to help you get the best from a system that will keep my hunger for continual learning fed for years and yeas to come. These days anyone considering replacing their old Lucas 14CUX with an aftermarket engine management system would do well to consider completely leapfrogging the usual suspect 1990's tech options typically installed on our cars, and jumping straight to something way more advanced like the Haltech Elite 2500.
Technology moves at a very fast pace, so it's a shame to become stuck in the past, personally to remain stimulated I like to learn new things, so if this is you too I recommend buying an engine management system that supports your self learning journey for years and years to come
Amazing.
What can’t be argued with is a basic old school 90’s engineered after market Ecu does exactly what they need to run a,,,,,, is it 60 year old engine design efficiently on Petrol and with a proper sealed modern style wiring harness offers reliability never known before on old school Tvr
Add in the years of development work our friendly mappers have dedicated to the subject on these very cars an after market Ecu going forward is worth its weight in gold and not just from a financial perspective. They become useable again.
Yes we have different expectations like my love of no stepper motors as I love to control every rev the engine rotates. I can control it when cold for a few seconds then increase revs, no engine rattles, it’s a god send on my engine when cold.
Needing it to start within a few blinks of an eyelid does not interest me too much but by god I admire those that do
What can’t be argued with is a basic old school 90’s engineered after market Ecu does exactly what they need to run a,,,,,, is it 60 year old engine design efficiently on Petrol and with a proper sealed modern style wiring harness offers reliability never known before on old school Tvr
Add in the years of development work our friendly mappers have dedicated to the subject on these very cars an after market Ecu going forward is worth its weight in gold and not just from a financial perspective. They become useable again.
Yes we have different expectations like my love of no stepper motors as I love to control every rev the engine rotates. I can control it when cold for a few seconds then increase revs, no engine rattles, it’s a god send on my engine when cold.
Needing it to start within a few blinks of an eyelid does not interest me too much but by god I admire those that do
As your standards are super high you may be disappointed with a haltech startup as fuel is only squirted once the ecu has locked to the trigger.
Here's what my software says about fuel prime:
Fuel prime pulse : the very first pulse of fuel when the engine initially cranks and obtains trigger sync.
Perish the thought.
Here's what my software says about fuel prime:
Fuel prime pulse : the very first pulse of fuel when the engine initially cranks and obtains trigger sync.
Perish the thought.
As has been said before we are all here to learn.
I don't really see a few seconds of cranking to be an issue so I'm probably going to leave the priming pulse on its 5 ms setting.
After all I only carry out less than 3000 miles per year and my car is mostly started from the garage.
It's been interesting learning about the priming pulse though and how it changes the starting characteristics.
I don't really see a few seconds of cranking to be an issue so I'm probably going to leave the priming pulse on its 5 ms setting.
After all I only carry out less than 3000 miles per year and my car is mostly started from the garage.
It's been interesting learning about the priming pulse though and how it changes the starting characteristics.
Noticed Link on your list Dave lots of the old school Ford guys round here are on Link ecu's and TB's with their 14 DOHC & Duratecs etc in Escorts etc, versatile kit at a good price apparently and one on a Pectel 
very expensive kit but on a different level, he's on huge TB's but that thing makes over 320HP from just 2.3 Litre's so is no expense spared in his case , one of these guys also runs a BOB Cosworth V6 motor on MS3 like you say sooo much choice nowadays , I even read somewhere of a guy that configured an OE BMW Siemens MS43 ECU to run on a tuned Ford V6 engine all do-able if you have the mapping software I guess and the BMW ecu is a very clever unit even though its getting on for 20 years old but can be picked up for £50 and insanely reliable as are many OE units GEMS,Siemens,Bosch etc etc
and one on a Pectel very expensive kit but on a different level, he's on huge TB's but that thing makes over 320HP from just 2.3 Litre's so is no expense spared in his case , one of these guys also runs a BOB Cosworth V6 motor on MS3 like you say sooo much choice nowadays , I even read somewhere of a guy that configured an OE BMW Siemens MS43 ECU to run on a tuned Ford V6 engine all do-able if you have the mapping software I guess and the BMW ecu is a very clever unit even though its getting on for 20 years old but can be picked up for £50 and insanely reliable as are many OE units GEMS,Siemens,Bosch etc etc Edited by Zener on Thursday 9th July 11:25
spitfire4v8 said:
As your standards are super high you may be disappointed with a haltech startup as fuel is only squirted once the ecu has locked to the trigger.
Here's what my software says about fuel prime:
Fuel prime pulse : the very first pulse of fuel when the engine initially cranks and obtains trigger sync.
Perish the thought.
I seem to have upset you Here's what my software says about fuel prime:
Fuel prime pulse : the very first pulse of fuel when the engine initially cranks and obtains trigger sync.
Perish the thought.
Or one of your friends?
BTW thanks for contacting me the other week, it's nice you showed such genuine concern and you only had my best interests at heart, the good news is I corrected all the issues so I can return to to business as usual.
Send my regards to your friend
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