Seeking Quality Wheel Nuts
Discussion
So far so good, my shiny new nuts arrived this morning 
Looking good so far, they are definitely way better quality than what I've had in the past from other sellers.
The chrome finish looks great, the threads are well cut and the collars rotate nicely, I'll see how they fit my Imolas this evening
Looking good so far, they are definitely way better quality than what I've had in the past from other sellers.
The chrome finish looks great, the threads are well cut and the collars rotate nicely, I'll see how they fit my Imolas this evening
So I replaced my existing set of M12 x 1.5 wheel nuts with a 60 degree seat, with a new set of M12 x 1.5 wheel nuts with a 60 degree seat, all other measurements such as sleeve diameter and thread depth were carefully measured while choosing the new nuts, finally I took the advice of the vendor who agreed with my choice and reiterated the benefit of a floating seat.
People reading this post should be reassured my new nuts are better by design due to the 60 degree seat being separate and able to rotate around the nut (the floating seat), of course this floating collar/seat does not actually rotate at all, friction between the wheel and the floating seat ensures it stays static, the nut rotates around it as you tighten the nut on the stud.
This in contrast to my old solid nuts with their integral 60 degree seat, when you tighten a solid nut the whole thing rotates including the seat face, this grinding rotational force acting on the wheel stresses and fractures the powder coat that's there to protect the wheel. As we all know once powder coat fails water gets under it, and before you know it aluminum oxide is the result lifting more and more of the powder coat.
I'll get a photo of this corrosion that I believe started on my wheels because the solid nuts fractured the powder coat in the nut recesses, in places this corrosion has started to creep out of the nut recesses and is spoiling the look of my wheels. However, the floating collar/seat is actually there for safety, it takes the stress away from the alloy wheel itself when you tighten the nuts with an impact wrench (air gun), and transfers the pulling load through the nut directly to the stud where is should be thus avoiding potential wheel damage. Finally the floating collar/seat reduces irregular friction between wheel and nut caused by rough surface, and thus stabilises the torque, essentially it helps you to ensure the same torque is applied accurately every time.
Right, with that out of the way I can now reveal the real reason for me playing with my nuts all week
So lying under the car recently removing my damaged ARB and and tightening up all my exhaust tray bolts that were left barely finger tight after my chassis restoration, I noticed my rear tyres (Rainsport 3s) are down to 3.5mm so I've bought myself a set of Rainsport 5s that will go on the car before too long and well in advance of the wet weather Autumn months.
And as with many such things one thing leads to another, my rear wheels are definitely in need of a refurb but I've been waiting for my tyres to wear out to do this as it saves me the cost of paying someone to fit my Camskill sourced Rainsport 5s. So I then look at my existing wheel nuts which are a mismatched set and rather crusty too (see above), clearly they needed to go!
To reassure everyone my new Ford Ghia wheel nuts (just the way the vendor describes them) are great and fit perfectly, their thread size/pitch and 60 degree seat faces are all exactly the same as my old nuts, and importantly the 60 degree seat faces are the correct angle for my Imola wheels that have a concave 60 degree nut receiving inner faces x 4 per wheel. The only difference being my new bright zinc plated nuts (almost as shiny as chrome) are a lot nicer looking and better made, oh and thanks to Barreti (Ian) who highlighted the need for the rotating seat they no longer stress and break the powder coat on my wheels which should mean my upcoming wheel refurb will last better than the last.
Worn tyres = wheel refurb, which in turn demands I sort me nuts out
I hope this post is helpful to others, I've been speaking with the guy who owns Alloy Wheels & Nuts, having been specialising in this market for some 10 years it's quite clear he knows what he's talking about when it comes to wheel nuts and bolts, he also sources good quality parts much of his stock coming from Itally as he refuses to sell cheap Chinese parts. Having taken his professional and experienced advice I can confirm after fitting his bright zinc plated Ford Ghia M12 x 1.5 rotating seat wheel nuts, they work absolutely perfectly on a TVR Chimaera fitted with Imolas.
https://www.alloywheelnutsandbolts.co.uk/
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Ghia-wheel-Sleeve-...
Enjoy
People reading this post should be reassured my new nuts are better by design due to the 60 degree seat being separate and able to rotate around the nut (the floating seat), of course this floating collar/seat does not actually rotate at all, friction between the wheel and the floating seat ensures it stays static, the nut rotates around it as you tighten the nut on the stud.
This in contrast to my old solid nuts with their integral 60 degree seat, when you tighten a solid nut the whole thing rotates including the seat face, this grinding rotational force acting on the wheel stresses and fractures the powder coat that's there to protect the wheel. As we all know once powder coat fails water gets under it, and before you know it aluminum oxide is the result lifting more and more of the powder coat.
I'll get a photo of this corrosion that I believe started on my wheels because the solid nuts fractured the powder coat in the nut recesses, in places this corrosion has started to creep out of the nut recesses and is spoiling the look of my wheels. However, the floating collar/seat is actually there for safety, it takes the stress away from the alloy wheel itself when you tighten the nuts with an impact wrench (air gun), and transfers the pulling load through the nut directly to the stud where is should be thus avoiding potential wheel damage. Finally the floating collar/seat reduces irregular friction between wheel and nut caused by rough surface, and thus stabilises the torque, essentially it helps you to ensure the same torque is applied accurately every time.
Right, with that out of the way I can now reveal the real reason for me playing with my nuts all week
So lying under the car recently removing my damaged ARB and and tightening up all my exhaust tray bolts that were left barely finger tight after my chassis restoration, I noticed my rear tyres (Rainsport 3s) are down to 3.5mm so I've bought myself a set of Rainsport 5s that will go on the car before too long and well in advance of the wet weather Autumn months.
And as with many such things one thing leads to another, my rear wheels are definitely in need of a refurb but I've been waiting for my tyres to wear out to do this as it saves me the cost of paying someone to fit my Camskill sourced Rainsport 5s. So I then look at my existing wheel nuts which are a mismatched set and rather crusty too (see above), clearly they needed to go!
To reassure everyone my new Ford Ghia wheel nuts (just the way the vendor describes them) are great and fit perfectly, their thread size/pitch and 60 degree seat faces are all exactly the same as my old nuts, and importantly the 60 degree seat faces are the correct angle for my Imola wheels that have a concave 60 degree nut receiving inner faces x 4 per wheel. The only difference being my new bright zinc plated nuts (almost as shiny as chrome) are a lot nicer looking and better made, oh and thanks to Barreti (Ian) who highlighted the need for the rotating seat they no longer stress and break the powder coat on my wheels which should mean my upcoming wheel refurb will last better than the last.
Worn tyres = wheel refurb, which in turn demands I sort me nuts out
I hope this post is helpful to others, I've been speaking with the guy who owns Alloy Wheels & Nuts, having been specialising in this market for some 10 years it's quite clear he knows what he's talking about when it comes to wheel nuts and bolts, he also sources good quality parts much of his stock coming from Itally as he refuses to sell cheap Chinese parts. Having taken his professional and experienced advice I can confirm after fitting his bright zinc plated Ford Ghia M12 x 1.5 rotating seat wheel nuts, they work absolutely perfectly on a TVR Chimaera fitted with Imolas.
https://www.alloywheelnutsandbolts.co.uk/
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Ghia-wheel-Sleeve-...
Enjoy
Zener said:
Well done Dave, just curious might of known you did your homework on this one 
It's nuts mate 
Seriously though, the shouldered part of the sleeve/floating seat actually locates the Imola beautifully, it's like they are made for the wheel, and the 60 degree floating seat design itself is a real improvement over a 60 degree solid nut.
The threads on my new nuts are well cut and the bright zinc plating is actually very close to a chrome finish, overall they seem very well engineered and fit better than anything else I've used in the past, but only time will tell how the plating copes with our UK winters and salt laden roads
At the end of the day for £23 for a set of 16 these Ford Ghia wheel nuts from 'Spot On Nuts & Bolts' seem, errrr...Spot On
, I'd love stainless but they are all the solid type and I'm beggered if I'm paying £100 for a set of wheel nuts!I hope this post helps others looking for quality wheel nuts that are better by design and suit their Imola shod Chimaera
Interestingly I have been using alloy wheel nuts for a while little less un-sprung all helps, they dont last forever and clean threads and correct tightening discipline are essential and definitely no rattle guns (air tools etc) 
as did road going Porsche models, Triumph Stag MK2 etc , for low maintenance I would follow Daves find
as did road going Porsche models, Triumph Stag MK2 etc , for low maintenance I would follow Daves find Zener said:
Interestingly I have been using alloy wheel nuts for a while little less un-sprung all helps, they dont last forever and clean threads and correct tightening discipline are essential and definitely no rattle guns (air tools etc) as did road going Porsche models, Triumph Stag MK2 etc , for low maintenance I would follow Daves find
Hi Simon, tapping into your professional experience a couple of questions if I may? as did road going Porsche models, Triumph Stag MK2 etc , for low maintenance I would follow Daves find 1. Do you torque wheel nuts?
2. If you do, what torque setting do you use?
I was also taught to re-check tightness/torque after a few miles, would you agree this remains necessary?
ChimpOnGas said:
This in contrast to my old solid nuts with their integral 60 degree seat, when you tighten a solid nut the whole thing rotates including the seat face, this grinding rotational force acting on the wheel stresses and fractures the powder coat that's there to protect the wheel. As we all know once powder coat fails water gets under it, and before you know it aluminum oxide is the result lifting more and more of the powder coat.
That's true for wheels that have the flange that the nut sets into cast as part of the wheel. The rims I've just bought have an alloy bush pushed into the mounting plate that the nuts bear on. You can scuff that up all you like I'd imagine, it won't cause any issues with corrosion. Except with the bush itself, which would be replaced when the wheels need a re-furb.
Never had to re-torque wheel nuts after a week 500 miles whatever 
I think thats tyre shops covering their arse which is understandable I suppose or written into their public liability insurance its not in mine, certain very late vehicles I do however 
fastener feel is a wonderful thing in my trade once you got it many a decent DIY'er does too , getting back to the beginning again regarding the re-tightening/re-torquing bit I have had customers query this with tyre shops and my answer is when you purchase a new car do you take it back after a week or short mileage covered to check wheel nuts/bolt security ? NO of course you dont the only reason I can see this being an issue is if you mounted corroded alloy hub faced wheels or dirty hubs together or poorly coated/refurbed wheels where coatings had been able to creep onto the wheel nut taper faces and thats just shoddy fitting regardless so can all be dismissed unless your a bodger monkey 
I think thats tyre shops covering their arse which is understandable I suppose or written into their public liability insurance its not in mine, certain very late vehicles I do however fastener feel is a wonderful thing in my trade once you got it many a decent DIY'er does too , getting back to the beginning again regarding the re-tightening/re-torquing bit I have had customers query this with tyre shops and my answer is when you purchase a new car do you take it back after a week or short mileage covered to check wheel nuts/bolt security ? NO of course you dont the only reason I can see this being an issue is if you mounted corroded alloy hub faced wheels or dirty hubs together or poorly coated/refurbed wheels where coatings had been able to creep onto the wheel nut taper faces and thats just shoddy fitting regardless so can all be dismissed unless your a bodger monkey Riff Raff said:
ChimpOnGas said:
This in contrast to my old solid nuts with their integral 60 degree seat, when you tighten a solid nut the whole thing rotates including the seat face, this grinding rotational force acting on the wheel stresses and fractures the powder coat that's there to protect the wheel. As we all know once powder coat fails water gets under it, and before you know it aluminum oxide is the result lifting more and more of the powder coat.
That's true for wheels that have the flange that the nut sets into cast as part of the wheel. The rims I've just bought have an alloy bush pushed into the mounting plate that the nuts bear on. You can scuff that up all you like I'd imagine, it won't cause any issues with corrosion. Except with the bush itself, which would be replaced when the wheels need a re-furb.
Riff Raff said:
Zener said:
Me! I had a Mini with Cosmics on. 6x10 IIRC.
joking aside they were a strong well built wheel , seem to remember a lot of Mini's and Imps etc wearing these I suspect these inserts are a hard aluminium alloy, if they were steel you'd have galvanic corrosion issues.
I actually think this is the real source of my wheel corrosion, an aluminium wheel and interference fitting steel wheel nuts are a always going to promote corrosion boys
This is because the wheel is made from less noble aluminium, so it is always going to become the sacrificial anode!
I actually think this is the real source of my wheel corrosion, an aluminium wheel and interference fitting steel wheel nuts are a always going to promote corrosion boys
This is because the wheel is made from less noble aluminium, so it is always going to become the sacrificial anode!
Riff Raff said:
Zener said:
Me! I had a Mini with Cosmics on. 6x10 IIRC.https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/26115/lot/2/?cate...
ChimpOnGas said:
Hi Guys,
I've been speaking with the guy from Alloy Wheel Nuts & Bolts....
https://www.alloywheelnutsandbolts.co.uk/
He's been very responsive and happy to answer my questions, he does also seem to know his subject too, he's been specialising in wheel nuts/bolts for some 10 years.
Apparently most of his stock is sourced from Italy, so hopefully a lot better quality than the wheel nuts I've suffered in the past?
Sorry been through my invoices and cant fingers it .I've been speaking with the guy from Alloy Wheel Nuts & Bolts....
https://www.alloywheelnutsandbolts.co.uk/
He's been very responsive and happy to answer my questions, he does also seem to know his subject too, he's been specialising in wheel nuts/bolts for some 10 years.
Apparently most of his stock is sourced from Italy, so hopefully a lot better quality than the wheel nuts I've suffered in the past?
They were between 40 to 50 quid .
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