Essential reading?
Discussion
I’d certainly recommend you getting hold of Steve Heath’s book on The Griffith and Chimaera.
It’s not much of a Haynes manual, but it does give a lot of information about the cars and many aspects of maintenance, including upgrades.
It’s also very useful for you to familiarise yourself with your new car
It’s not much of a Haynes manual, but it does give a lot of information about the cars and many aspects of maintenance, including upgrades.
It’s also very useful for you to familiarise yourself with your new car
combine04 said:
Thoroughly enjoying reading threads about upgrades/maintenance parts for my new-to-me chimaera that I collect on the 7th Nov.
Having spotted the injector upgrade thread from ChimpOnGas, I wondered what else might be worth reading through?
Combine, welcome to TVR 'world'.Having spotted the injector upgrade thread from ChimpOnGas, I wondered what else might be worth reading through?
Before launching into a raft of upgrades, I'd use the car for a while - maybe 'til this time next year, and see how it drives and how you get on with it. Might be worthwhile getting the car on a dyno to see what power its making.....search on the forums to get ball park figures for each engine size.....You may find from the dyno runs that power is down? You might find that a new cam is needed. What service history comes with the car? I've seen a recent post where replacing old ignition components gave the owner another 20bhp with before/after dyno runs.
The most often quoted restriction on the Rover V8 is its breathing - - so just whacking in bigger injectors, without getting more air to go with the increased fuel squirted by the bigger injector is not achieving anything.
Read anything from folks on the Chimaera/Griffith forums who have gone aftermarket engine ECU - most are very pleased with the results. It's not a cheap move, but usually gives more power, makes the car smoother and often gives better mpg.
Nick
Sir Paolo said:
I’d certainly recommend you getting hold of Steve Heath’s book on The Griffith and Chimaera.
It’s not much of a Haynes manual, but it does give a lot of information about the cars and many aspects of maintenance, including upgrades.
It’s also very useful for you to familiarise yourself with your new car
Yes good comment. On the look out and have missed a couple!It’s not much of a Haynes manual, but it does give a lot of information about the cars and many aspects of maintenance, including upgrades.
It’s also very useful for you to familiarise yourself with your new car
nawarne said:
Combine, welcome to TVR 'world'.
Before launching into a raft of upgrades, I'd use the car for a while - maybe 'til this time next year, and see how it drives and how you get on with it. Might be worthwhile getting the car on a dyno to see what power its making.....search on the forums to get ball park figures for each engine size.....You may find from the dyno runs that power is down? You might find that a new cam is needed. What service history comes with the car? I've seen a recent post where replacing old ignition components gave the owner another 20bhp with before/after dyno runs.
The most often quoted restriction on the Rover V8 is its breathing - - so just whacking in bigger injectors, without getting more air to go with the increased fuel squirted by the bigger injector is not achieving anything.
Read anything from folks on the Chimaera/Griffith forums who have gone aftermarket engine ECU - most are very pleased with the results. It's not a cheap move, but usually gives more power, makes the car smoother and often gives better mpg.
Nick
Thanks Nick - sage advice. Before launching into a raft of upgrades, I'd use the car for a while - maybe 'til this time next year, and see how it drives and how you get on with it. Might be worthwhile getting the car on a dyno to see what power its making.....search on the forums to get ball park figures for each engine size.....You may find from the dyno runs that power is down? You might find that a new cam is needed. What service history comes with the car? I've seen a recent post where replacing old ignition components gave the owner another 20bhp with before/after dyno runs.
The most often quoted restriction on the Rover V8 is its breathing - - so just whacking in bigger injectors, without getting more air to go with the increased fuel squirted by the bigger injector is not achieving anything.
Read anything from folks on the Chimaera/Griffith forums who have gone aftermarket engine ECU - most are very pleased with the results. It's not a cheap move, but usually gives more power, makes the car smoother and often gives better mpg.
Nick
Lots of good history with the car including a rolling road print out... 180hp! It’s a 400 so certainly down on the tvr pub chat figures and less than I’d like from a more sensible suggestion from other owners (not that the car feels sluggish with the big V8, having driven a 1.8 Westfield did a while).
I’ve planned the intake pipes from Act to help breathing, it’s had a new coil, new fuel lines and new coolant pipe work too. It already has upgraded leads and removal of the plug extenders.
The injectors looked liked a good idea since they’ve never been changed on a ‘99 car.
Re power and noise, agreed - I’ll be waiting and getting used to the new car. But would like to start the journey with a few natural/obvious benefits like filter changes, sparks etc.
Some simple upgrades/changes that you might find beneficial:
Spark plugs - the standard NGK B7ECS plugs as specified by TVR might be fine if your annual driving diet of TVR driving is long cross country blasts, but for anything like normal mixed motoring with traffic thrown in, you need 6 rated plugs. I use the iridium ones (BPR6EIX) because many years with a large Lexus converted me to plugs that last 60,000 miles and so always give you best performance, but even a straight swap to any of the 6 rated plugs will serve you well. Buy only from good car parts shops - there are far too many fakes out there on the likes of EBAY.
Handling - your dampers may be up to 25 years old, so a quick check over is in order. These cars are pretty sensitive on the handling front. I hated mine when i first got it, it was all over the place and a misery to drive compared to my Saab estate. Quick trip to my local TVR expert (avoid Kwik Fit at all costs) and I was the first customer on his brand new Hunter 4 wheel aligner. An hour and £100 later, and the handling was transformed. I have also changed to aftermarket dampers, as I do track days, but a decent set of the standard Bilsteins will be fine for road use.
Tyres - check the date code on your tyres, not the tread depth. It's in a little rectangle on the sidewall. Four digits, week number and year. So, for example, 2618 is June 24th - 30th 2018. If they are over 6 years old, replace. And do your research - tyres that grip from cold get my vote.
Christmas present list (hint to your other half)
Alloy stalks and handbrake grip - Leven used to make these, but a lady called Anne Billyard makes them and sells them via Faceache. They are a nice upgrade.
Pedals - Peter Essling makes lovely alloy pedals, , which also give you adjustment on the throttle pedal as well as the other two. They come in wide or narrow - I chose narrow, wide are three holes wide.
Cup holders. When you have finished falling about laughing, driving a Chimaera in summer is thirsty work. No aircon, V8 heater. You need somewhere to put your bottle/can. A geezer on Facebook was making them on his 3D printer in 2018 and may well be willing to make more. They fit in the triangle between the seat backs.
Spark plugs - the standard NGK B7ECS plugs as specified by TVR might be fine if your annual driving diet of TVR driving is long cross country blasts, but for anything like normal mixed motoring with traffic thrown in, you need 6 rated plugs. I use the iridium ones (BPR6EIX) because many years with a large Lexus converted me to plugs that last 60,000 miles and so always give you best performance, but even a straight swap to any of the 6 rated plugs will serve you well. Buy only from good car parts shops - there are far too many fakes out there on the likes of EBAY.
Handling - your dampers may be up to 25 years old, so a quick check over is in order. These cars are pretty sensitive on the handling front. I hated mine when i first got it, it was all over the place and a misery to drive compared to my Saab estate. Quick trip to my local TVR expert (avoid Kwik Fit at all costs) and I was the first customer on his brand new Hunter 4 wheel aligner. An hour and £100 later, and the handling was transformed. I have also changed to aftermarket dampers, as I do track days, but a decent set of the standard Bilsteins will be fine for road use.
Tyres - check the date code on your tyres, not the tread depth. It's in a little rectangle on the sidewall. Four digits, week number and year. So, for example, 2618 is June 24th - 30th 2018. If they are over 6 years old, replace. And do your research - tyres that grip from cold get my vote.
Christmas present list (hint to your other half)
Alloy stalks and handbrake grip - Leven used to make these, but a lady called Anne Billyard makes them and sells them via Faceache. They are a nice upgrade.
Pedals - Peter Essling makes lovely alloy pedals, , which also give you adjustment on the throttle pedal as well as the other two. They come in wide or narrow - I chose narrow, wide are three holes wide.
Cup holders. When you have finished falling about laughing, driving a Chimaera in summer is thirsty work. No aircon, V8 heater. You need somewhere to put your bottle/can. A geezer on Facebook was making them on his 3D printer in 2018 and may well be willing to make more. They fit in the triangle between the seat backs.
Concentrate on the reliability side rather than the bling.
alarm/ immobiliser as most were wired wrong from the factory and can cause starting issues.
Ditch the plug extenders, fit some Ngk bpr6es spark plugs and some new leads.
Check you cap and rotor are good quality and not cheap Chinese junk.
Make sure the coil is a quality original Bosch item.
alarm/ immobiliser as most were wired wrong from the factory and can cause starting issues.
Ditch the plug extenders, fit some Ngk bpr6es spark plugs and some new leads.
Check you cap and rotor are good quality and not cheap Chinese junk.
Make sure the coil is a quality original Bosch item.
combine04 said:
Yes good comment. On the look out and have missed a couple!
This may not be of any help, but I bought my copy a couple of years ago from Steve Heath directly; his site is www.shpub.co.uk - unfortunately it now states he is currently not selling until the pandemic is over.I had also been of the mistaken impression that the books were only available secondhand, but in fact they are (usually) available brand new at £40 - I've seen tatty used ones advertised for more than £50.
Austin Seven said:
This may not be of any help, but I bought my copy a couple of years ago from Steve Heath directly; his site is www.shpub.co.uk - unfortunately it now states he is currently not selling until the pandemic is over.
I had also been of the mistaken impression that the books were only available secondhand, but in fact they are (usually) available brand new at £40 - I've seen tatty used ones advertised for more than £50.
I saw one advertised on Facebook for £45 but the seller didn’t have the decency to respond... then again in ebay and it went for £89!! Didn’t feel the latter was worth it!!I had also been of the mistaken impression that the books were only available secondhand, but in fact they are (usually) available brand new at £40 - I've seen tatty used ones advertised for more than £50.
Belle427 said:
Concentrate on the reliability side rather than the bling.
alarm/ immobiliser as most were wired wrong from the factory and can cause starting issues.
Ditch the plug extenders, fit some Ngk bpr6es spark plugs and some new leads.
Check you cap and rotor are good quality and not cheap Chinese junk.
Make sure the coil is a quality original Bosch item.
Again some great advice. alarm/ immobiliser as most were wired wrong from the factory and can cause starting issues.
Ditch the plug extenders, fit some Ngk bpr6es spark plugs and some new leads.
Check you cap and rotor are good quality and not cheap Chinese junk.
Make sure the coil is a quality original Bosch item.
I’ve had a new coil just fitted as believe the other was starting to fail. Plug extenders have been removed and high quality ceramic leads installed. Unsure on plugs but will do! Cap and rotor I’ll check. Alarm is on the list - hoping the chap that comes over from France may make a return To the UK after covid cools down again (is it Carl?).
Call Davis regarding the alarm. He did mine in January this year, great job and boot release.
http://www.hf-solutions.co.uk/home/4586165669
http://www.hf-solutions.co.uk/home/4586165669
Relayer said:
Call Davis regarding the alarm. He did mine in January this year, great job and boot release.
http://www.hf-solutions.co.uk/home/4586165669
+1 for Dave Fairclough, top bloke knows TVR’s we’ll.http://www.hf-solutions.co.uk/home/4586165669
Fitted a new Meta alarm and immobiliser on my Chim
combine04 said:
Thanks Nick - sage advice.
Lots of good history with the car including a rolling road print out... 180hp! It’s a 400 so certainly down on the tvr pub chat figures and less than I’d like from a more sensible suggestion from other owners (not that the car feels sluggish with the big V8, having driven a 1.8 Westfield did a while).
I’ve planned the intake pipes from Act to help breathing, it’s had a new coil, new fuel lines and new coolant pipe work too. It already has upgraded leads and removal of the plug extenders.
The injectors looked liked a good idea since they’ve never been changed on a ‘99 car.
Re power and noise, agreed - I’ll be waiting and getting used to the new car. But would like to start the journey with a few natural/obvious benefits like filter changes, sparks etc.
Even without TVR pub talk, thats well down on power- its about par with the untuned 3.9 used in the Range Rovers. Did the rolling road print out show you the air / fuel ratio? Post it if you have it so we can see where the missing ponies are.Lots of good history with the car including a rolling road print out... 180hp! It’s a 400 so certainly down on the tvr pub chat figures and less than I’d like from a more sensible suggestion from other owners (not that the car feels sluggish with the big V8, having driven a 1.8 Westfield did a while).
I’ve planned the intake pipes from Act to help breathing, it’s had a new coil, new fuel lines and new coolant pipe work too. It already has upgraded leads and removal of the plug extenders.
The injectors looked liked a good idea since they’ve never been changed on a ‘99 car.
Re power and noise, agreed - I’ll be waiting and getting used to the new car. But would like to start the journey with a few natural/obvious benefits like filter changes, sparks etc.
It's Carl Baker to whom you are referring re alarms - www.tvruk.tv I think.
Dave Fairclough has a good reputation too.
You mentioned changing the coil - the ignition amplifier is another cause of grief from time to time too.
Dave Fairclough has a good reputation too.
You mentioned changing the coil - the ignition amplifier is another cause of grief from time to time too.
blitzracing said:
Even without TVR pub talk, thats well down on power- its about par with the untuned 3.9 used in the Range Rovers. Did the rolling road print out show you the air / fuel ratio? Post it if you have it so we can see where the missing ponies are.
I don’t currently. But should have more when I pickup the car on the 7th 👍blitzracing said:
Even without TVR pub talk, thats well down on power- its about par with the untuned 3.9 used in the Range Rovers. Did the rolling road print out show you the air / fuel ratio? Post it if you have it so we can see where the missing ponies are.
Would be about/near right if it's the at the wheels figure, though. 
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