Up up and away

[Zener]

When I see the Comp Cams and Cloyes instantly thought RS I use Comp Cams mech lifters myself good stuff

[jojackson4]

Bit of head work after I dropped the chassis in Sheffield

Both heads back together

[jojackson4]

Nob

[Zener]

When removing rear crank main seal remove cap and replace T seals too makes fitting that seal a breeze with no chance of dislocating the tension spring , and your sorting another source of oil leaks too

[jojackson4]

Zener said:

When removing rear crank main seal remove cap and replace T seals too makes fitting that seal a breeze with no chance of dislocating the tension spring , and your sorting another source of oil leaks too

Crucifix seals what’s the best method of installing them?

[Zener]

Smear of Reinzosil or similar (not regular RTV) this also aids sliding the bearing cap into the block without snagging/dragging the T seals , you then trim the ends at the gasket face as necessary, make sure the oil seal is square to the cap and block as you tighten the cap torquing etc

[jojackson4]

Clutch arm done with the reinforcement plate
New rear seal not turned up yet

Managed to get some other stuff as well
Only taken 5 years so brembo is the new hunt

[Classic Chim]

jojackson4 said:

Clutch arm done with the reinforcement plate
New rear seal not turned up yet

Managed to get some other stuff as well
Only taken 5 years so brembo is the new hunt

Brembo
Change the bush thingies that the arm pivots on. My clutch pedal feels slick since Peter changed those. Coupled to a new clutch it’s a far smoother operation. Greasing the gear stick joints really helps too.

Brembo E38?
I noticed the old Ferrari 360 we have at work has Suspiciously similar brakes to my E 38 ones.
I might investigate further and ask the mechanics the spec and maybe if they have a spare pad I could check against the size of the BMW ones I’m using. I imagine those pads will be slightly more aggressive on the Ferrari which I’d like to try.
Maybe a BMW forum might have info on sporty pads for the E38 cars at half the cost
I feel I don’t get the E38 road car ones hot enough unless I’m really pressing on so just want more steel in the pad compound to gain heat quicker on application. Scrape the disc more.
They are marvellous but I feel slightly under used on a light car.
I want to wear them out faster

Edited by Classic Chim on Wednesday 16th March 08:57

[jojackson4]

[jojackson4]

Classic Chim said:

Brembo
Change the bush thingies that the arm pivots on. My clutch pedal feels slick since Peter changed those. Coupled to a new clutch it’s a far smoother operation. Greasing the gear stick joints really helps too.

Brembo E38?
I noticed the old Ferrari 360 we have at work has Suspiciously similar brakes to my E 38 ones.
I might investigate further and ask the mechanics the spec and maybe if they have a spare pad I could check against the size of the BMW ones I’m using. I imagine those pads will be slightly more aggressive on the Ferrari which I’d like to try.
Maybe a BMW forum might have info on sporty pads for the E38 cars at half the cost
I feel I don’t get the E38 road car ones hot enough unless I’m really pressing on so just want more steel in the pad compound to gain heat quicker on application. Scrape the disc more.
They are marvellous but I feel slightly under used on a light car.
I want to wear them out faster



Got some new clutch things

Edited by Classic Chim on Wednesday 16th March 08:57

[Steve_D]

jojackson4 said:

What does the other side look like?
The cup the ball sits in wears and can wear right through which is why you, and others, have fitted the backing plate.

The reason it wears is that the pivot ball it sits on either has a flat on the end or some have a hole in the end all of which not only increases the wear it also leaves a lump in the cup. If you are going to reuse an old arm you should grind out the lump. If you don't you could end up with a 'notchy' pedal action in particular if the replacement clutch assembly is slightly taller/shorter which will leave the arm pivoting at a slightly different angle and the lump hanging up on the hole in the pivot ball.

Steve

[jojackson4]

Steve_D said:

What does the other side look like?
The cup the ball sits in wears and can wear right through which is why you, and others, have fitted the backing plate.

The reason it wears is that the pivot ball it sits on either has a flat on the end or some have a hole in the end all of which not only increases the wear it also leaves a lump in the cup. If you are going to reuse an old arm you should grind out the lump. If you don't you could end up with a 'notchy' pedal action in particular if the replacement clutch assembly is slightly taller/shorter which will leave the arm pivoting at a slightly different angle and the lump hanging up on the hole in the pivot ball.

Steve

It looks ok nothing nasty
To be honest I have only done it because it’s there on the bench looking at me

[Classic Chim]

What I find weird here is my original fork arm had the welded plate already there. I assumed Tvr did this mod when building the car. Mines a 2000 year car so quite late in the build process.
I bought a new one off Dom at powers and that two comes with the strengthening plate.
So was Pete’s a replacement arm or do Tvr come with the standard arm?
Great Info Steve. I really appreciate that description.

[Zener]

Steve_D said:

jojackson4 said:

What does the other side look like?
The cup the ball sits in wears and can wear right through which is why you, and others, have fitted the backing plate.

The reason it wears is that the pivot ball it sits on either has a flat on the end or some have a hole in the end all of which not only increases the wear it also leaves a lump in the cup. If you are going to reuse an old arm you should grind out the lump. If you don't you could end up with a 'notchy' pedal action in particular if the replacement clutch assembly is slightly taller/shorter which will leave the arm pivoting at a slightly different angle and the lump hanging up on the hole in the pivot ball.

Steve

I use a big washer then build up the hole until it penetrates through into the pivot cup and then reshape the cup profile with a ball headed burr thus ridding the wear/ridge Steve describes thus killing two birds with one stone so to speak e.g (this is not a TVR arm however)

[pits]

I am doing the same with my clutch arm, unfortunately I found this a bit too late, but seems a really good idea
https://britrest.com/product-category/clutch-parts...

[jojackson4]

Hopefully got the cam timing sorted and the new seal has turned up

Then had a bks to it moment
New mains ordered as the rear is looking a bit second hand

Hopefully they will land this time next week but at least I can do the heads

[jojackson4]

Reinzosil
Is that same type of stuff to Derko ?

[Zener]

jojackson4 said:

Reinzosil
Is that same type of stuff to Derko ?

[jojackson4]

Zener said:

yes:

I have that woohoo

[jojackson4]

Cam timing done


Heads on but not toqued up



Cam and lifters in and lubed up