Discussion
pits said:
.........or is it just a case of a new dizzy?
Avoid replacement dizzy if you can. Last one we bought had the wrong mechanical advance degrees. I had to strip it down and modify it. Even then I had no way of confirming if the advance curve was correct but it seemed to perform OK.Steve
(I think) I have the distributor that came off my car when I converted to coil packs/Emerald ECU.
I think it is resting somewhere in my mancave until the day someone needs it.
Drop me an email if you do need one and I will have a look for it.
I know the cap was appropriated several years ago by a local Grief owner who was having Griff from his ignition system.
I think it is resting somewhere in my mancave until the day someone needs it.
Drop me an email if you do need one and I will have a look for it.
I know the cap was appropriated several years ago by a local Grief owner who was having Griff from his ignition system.
QBee said:
(I think) I have the distributor that came off my car when I converted to coil packs/Emerald ECU.
I think it is resting somewhere in my mancave until the day someone needs it.
Drop me an email if you do need one and I will have a look for it.
I know the cap was appropriated several years ago by a local Grief owner who was having Griff from his ignition system.
Will let you know on that, I may hit the local club guys up first to see if I can get one locallyI think it is resting somewhere in my mancave until the day someone needs it.
Drop me an email if you do need one and I will have a look for it.
I know the cap was appropriated several years ago by a local Grief owner who was having Griff from his ignition system.
Right, I have done the trigger test.
Original amp nothing
New amp I get spark by shoving a screwdriver between it and fuel pump primes, 3 pin stock item for a Land Rover.
I then adjusted the gap and have nothing (closer) so I am going to set it back to stock now, but it was consistently firing on the test.
Crank on key though and no spark though.
Adjusted back to stock 15thou and nothing, completely dead, so I have just ordered a new trigger head, will give that a try, and will mean it has new amp and trigger head, and if that doesn't work, I am stumped.
For anyone that may need this later in life the part number is as it took me ages to find calling it a trigger head.
Rover V8 35dlm8 distributor trigger head Magnetic sensor RTC5090
For anyone that may need this later in life the part number is as it took me ages to find calling it a trigger head.
Rover V8 35dlm8 distributor trigger head Magnetic sensor RTC5090
Well I don't know
New amp
New trigger head
12v at coil
12v at ignition amp
Can't get the new trigger head to work on test
Can't get old trigger head to work on test
Voltage is dropping it 7-8V at coil on crank
Not sure what there is left to try, I haven't got the metal relay for the fuel pumps(?)
Try a Powerspark dizzy?
New amp
New trigger head
12v at coil
12v at ignition amp
Can't get the new trigger head to work on test
Can't get old trigger head to work on test
Voltage is dropping it 7-8V at coil on crank
Not sure what there is left to try, I haven't got the metal relay for the fuel pumps(?)
Try a Powerspark dizzy?
Belle427 said:
Voltage seems low at coil, maybe try a direct battery feed to it briefly for test purposes.
Going to have a look at it tomorrow, just fitted another brand new Bosch coil, voltage still dropping to 7v on crank, can't get trigger to provide spark, what else is left? Everything in the line is brand new, coil, ignition amp, trigger head, all new, leads are 12 months old, as is cap and rotor, I have got a new ingition amp plug to go on next, will de-pin and fit that, but I have 12v to the plug, and voltage out of ignition amp with ignition on.
pits said:
Going to have a look at it tomorrow, just fitted another brand new Bosch coil, voltage still dropping to 7v on crank, can't get trigger to provide spark, what else is left?
Everything in the line is brand new, coil, ignition amp, trigger head, all new, leads are 12 months old, as is cap and rotor, I have got a new ingition amp plug to go on next, will de-pin and fit that, but I have 12v to the plug, and voltage out of ignition amp with ignition on.
Just because its new, doesn't mean it's good (copywrite "South Main Autos").Everything in the line is brand new, coil, ignition amp, trigger head, all new, leads are 12 months old, as is cap and rotor, I have got a new ingition amp plug to go on next, will de-pin and fit that, but I have 12v to the plug, and voltage out of ignition amp with ignition on.
Mr O of the above Youtube channel is a diagnostics expert and that's his mantra,
Sounds like it might be a high resistance connection with that voltage drop under load.
Been through and tested it all, I am now satisfied that everything new works, I can consistently get spark and fuel pump goes every single time.
Turn the key, nothing, no spark no fuel.
Take king lead off and test on key, it sparks once on first turn, then nothing, no spark anymore.
What am I missing, what's the difference between me rotating engine by hand and activating the ECU signal, and the key not doing it? Or doing it once
Turn the key, nothing, no spark no fuel.
Take king lead off and test on key, it sparks once on first turn, then nothing, no spark anymore.
What am I missing, what's the difference between me rotating engine by hand and activating the ECU signal, and the key not doing it? Or doing it once
Random musings whilst eating my lunch..
Speed? Don't know why it would read a sensor the slower it rotates, air gap wouldn't effect that would it?
On some old American crap the 'run' circuit and 'start' circuit are different because of current draw or something, so you'll get spark with the key in run position but not in start position.
I've finished my soup now so that is all
Speed? Don't know why it would read a sensor the slower it rotates, air gap wouldn't effect that would it?
On some old American crap the 'run' circuit and 'start' circuit are different because of current draw or something, so you'll get spark with the key in run position but not in start position.
I've finished my soup now so that is all
It may be a redherring but I once had a similar problem on a Land Rover in that while cranking the engine would fire but when the ignition key was returned to the ignition On position the engine immediately stalled, it turned out to be a faulty ignition switch, this could explain low volts reaching your ign amp?
Well I've got it to start, but it hasn't helped really.
For the 90th time I removed dizzy, stripped it, reset and rebuilt it all again, with new trigger, checked static time, refitted, and now it works, but it looks like I've knocked the timing whilst tightening the dizzy as with stepper it runs like a bag of s
t, and without unplugged the timing is way off and the idle is 2k, so retime tomorrow.
If this fails again I'm getting new dizzy
For the 90th time I removed dizzy, stripped it, reset and rebuilt it all again, with new trigger, checked static time, refitted, and now it works, but it looks like I've knocked the timing whilst tightening the dizzy as with stepper it runs like a bag of s
t, and without unplugged the timing is way off and the idle is 2k, so retime tomorrow.If this fails again I'm getting new dizzy
Normally a rough setting for a dizzy is to leave it not to tight in the approx' position and when the engine is running turn it slowly to advance it until the revs are at their highest and any further turning makes the running go all lumpy, then turn it back a tad, turn the engine off and nip the dizzy up.
Solved, eventually, replaced the ignition amp again and back to square one, got a bit pissed off with it so pulled the dizzy out to have a look at it all again and whilst sat on the bench, I started spinning the rotor arm with my finger and noticed between 3-7 oclock, or between 7 and 8 on the rotation there was a physical notchiness to the dizzy, as it was rotating it and getting to number seven the coil was firing "too early" then after 8 it was firing just on time, 4 cylinders firing retarded, 4 firing on time, so advancing or retarding the timing was not going to make any difference to the time as it was always going to be out and playing catch up.
I remedied this by putting in the Powerspark dizzy ( i am saving for body off this year, standalone and expensive parts are not high priority) the quality seems good, I did have to knock a few bits of metal off the two bottom pins on the shaft, didn't want them floating around engine bay, worth checking if you every buy.
Slotted right in, exactly where the Lucas unit was, the rear clip was an arse to get on as new sprung steel is sprung, fired the car up and it runs lovely, set a basic timing as I plan on getting it on rolling road with gas analyser to get it set properly, but apparently it has been broken since day one, and what ever originally broke was the proverbial straw on the camels back, no more stutter, no more shunting, no more crappy starting in the cold, it now pulls better in every gear and revs out smoother.
All in all very happy with the Powerspark distributor the Chimaera
I remedied this by putting in the Powerspark dizzy ( i am saving for body off this year, standalone and expensive parts are not high priority) the quality seems good, I did have to knock a few bits of metal off the two bottom pins on the shaft, didn't want them floating around engine bay, worth checking if you every buy.
Slotted right in, exactly where the Lucas unit was, the rear clip was an arse to get on as new sprung steel is sprung, fired the car up and it runs lovely, set a basic timing as I plan on getting it on rolling road with gas analyser to get it set properly, but apparently it has been broken since day one, and what ever originally broke was the proverbial straw on the camels back, no more stutter, no more shunting, no more crappy starting in the cold, it now pulls better in every gear and revs out smoother.
All in all very happy with the Powerspark distributor the Chimaera
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