Discussion
I have just replaced the Otter Switch on the rad and wanted to bleed the system. I believe the bleed nut is positioned on the RHS top of the rad and is a nut not a screw? After loosening this, there was no air escape so assume good ( this was after running to temp and letting cool and topping up swirl tank).
Just wanted to check this was correct procedure as I was suprised that no air was released?
Thanks in advance
Just wanted to check this was correct procedure as I was suprised that no air was released?
Thanks in advance
Yes. Should be something like a 10 mm nut or Allen key type.
Usually on the r/h side of rad so do check.
Undo your swirl pot ( big nut)
Make sure it’s full of coolant, get a helper ready with a jug of coolant and undo rad bleed screw.
Gravity will force water out that hole, keep swirl pot full at all times.
Soon as water flows consistently which is usually almost instantly nip it up.
If you’ve kept your swirl pot full no air should get in and your good to go.
To fully bleed the system you’d now open bleed screw on the Inlet manifold and connect that via a tube to a filling jug secured and sealed into your swirl pot and half full of coolant keeping that pipe submerged at all times. Water and any air will be constantly travelling through that pipe once engine temp rises and back into your jug.
Run the engine upto temp with heater on full hot and until no bubbles appear in your tube and now you should have bled any air out of both the rad and most importantly the top of your engine.
Check both top and bottom rad hoses are hot and heater runs hot.
Close everything off and jobs a good un.
Usually on the r/h side of rad so do check.
Undo your swirl pot ( big nut)
Make sure it’s full of coolant, get a helper ready with a jug of coolant and undo rad bleed screw.
Gravity will force water out that hole, keep swirl pot full at all times.
Soon as water flows consistently which is usually almost instantly nip it up.
If you’ve kept your swirl pot full no air should get in and your good to go.
To fully bleed the system you’d now open bleed screw on the Inlet manifold and connect that via a tube to a filling jug secured and sealed into your swirl pot and half full of coolant keeping that pipe submerged at all times. Water and any air will be constantly travelling through that pipe once engine temp rises and back into your jug.
Run the engine upto temp with heater on full hot and until no bubbles appear in your tube and now you should have bled any air out of both the rad and most importantly the top of your engine.
Check both top and bottom rad hoses are hot and heater runs hot.
Close everything off and jobs a good un.
Edited by BritishTvr450 on Tuesday 18th June 09:53
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