Bleeding Rad

Bleeding Rad

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Discussion

Fez887

Original Poster:

331 posts

77 months

Saturday 15th June
quotequote all
I have just replaced the Otter Switch on the rad and wanted to bleed the system. I believe the bleed nut is positioned on the RHS top of the rad and is a nut not a screw? After loosening this, there was no air escape so assume good ( this was after running to temp and letting cool and topping up swirl tank).

Just wanted to check this was correct procedure as I was suprised that no air was released?

Thanks in advance

Belle427

9,260 posts

236 months

Sunday 16th June
quotequote all
Not sure it's actually a bleed screw.
If your levels and temps are ok then your good to go.
Just monitor over the next couple of heating/cooling cycles.

TJC46

2,156 posts

209 months

Monday 17th June
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Everyone has there own way of bleeding the cooling system, but the first thing i do is remove the nut on the side of the radiator, {with everything cold]

Top up the swirl tank until water is coming out of the rad and then replace the nut. You now know the rad is full of water.

Fez887

Original Poster:

331 posts

77 months

Monday 17th June
quotequote all
Thanks, the only nut visible on my rad in on the top at the far RHS? Assume this is the same?

BritishTvr450

99 posts

2 months

Tuesday 18th June
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Yes. Should be something like a 10 mm nut or Allen key type.
Usually on the r/h side of rad so do check.

Undo your swirl pot ( big nut)
Make sure it’s full of coolant, get a helper ready with a jug of coolant and undo rad bleed screw.
Gravity will force water out that hole, keep swirl pot full at all times.
Soon as water flows consistently which is usually almost instantly nip it up.
If you’ve kept your swirl pot full no air should get in and your good to go.

To fully bleed the system you’d now open bleed screw on the Inlet manifold and connect that via a tube to a filling jug secured and sealed into your swirl pot and half full of coolant keeping that pipe submerged at all times. Water and any air will be constantly travelling through that pipe once engine temp rises and back into your jug.
Run the engine upto temp with heater on full hot and until no bubbles appear in your tube and now you should have bled any air out of both the rad and most importantly the top of your engine.
Check both top and bottom rad hoses are hot and heater runs hot.
Close everything off and jobs a good un.



Edited by BritishTvr450 on Tuesday 18th June 09:53

Fez887

Original Poster:

331 posts

77 months

Tuesday 18th June
quotequote all
Top drawer people, thanks.