Driving in cold conditions
Discussion
When I bought my car I was told to not push the revs past 3000 until the car had warmed up to 70 degrees.
Now that the cold weather is really with us, when I'm on the move, the temp gauge never seems to get above 50 - 60 degrees compared to its usual 70 - 80 degrees.
So assuming that I've driven a few miles to warm the engine up, am I alright to push past 3000 revs in these cold conditions, or do I risk doing some damage ?
Now that the cold weather is really with us, when I'm on the move, the temp gauge never seems to get above 50 - 60 degrees compared to its usual 70 - 80 degrees.
So assuming that I've driven a few miles to warm the engine up, am I alright to push past 3000 revs in these cold conditions, or do I risk doing some damage ?
These threads may be useful for working out what is wrong.
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=4103&f=8&h=0
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=4683&f=8&h=0
A search under the Chimeara forum for "thermo" gives a few additional threads. I noticed that the running temp did not get above about 55 however it got up to 90 when stationary (without the heater on). This weekend I found that with the heater on full the temp when stationary remained at about 88 without the fans coming on.
3 possible problems IMHO. a) sender, b) gauge, c) thermostat.
Bob
Edited to add note on heater.
>> Edited by bob the planner on Monday 6th January 13:02
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=4103&f=8&h=0
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=4683&f=8&h=0
A search under the Chimeara forum for "thermo" gives a few additional threads. I noticed that the running temp did not get above about 55 however it got up to 90 when stationary (without the heater on). This weekend I found that with the heater on full the temp when stationary remained at about 88 without the fans coming on.
3 possible problems IMHO. a) sender, b) gauge, c) thermostat.
Bob
Edited to add note on heater.
>> Edited by bob the planner on Monday 6th January 13:02
Nope sounds like excessive air flow cooling the engine. Solution is to block off part of the rad to stop the air coming in and overcooling the engine. And yes not a good idea to boot it if the temp is still only around 50 ish. And don't forget to remove it when the warmth returns.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
>> Edited by shpub on Monday 6th January 13:53
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
>> Edited by shpub on Monday 6th January 13:53
oo.. if were getting into cold air blast theory you've got to read this thread 
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=18082&f=8&h=0&hw=
I'm sure Steve still has warm memories of it
Matt.
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=18082&f=8&h=0&hw=
I'm sure Steve still has warm memories of it
Matt.
3000 rpm??? I never rev it above 2000 rpm until its at least 80C (on the dial!)... am I being over cautious? Not sure, really, cos I did drive like that for a fortnight (up to 3000 while cold) and apart from using more petrol it also used up more oil... maybe just a coincidence. :shrug:
I try and keep it below 2000rpm untill the oil pressure starts indicating a drop in pressure at idle. That way I am assured that the oil (and motor) are properly warmed up.
As for temps in the cold, my Chimaera has been consistently about 5 to 8 degrees coler in this weather, but still in the "normal" range between 70 and 90.
Harrigan
As for temps in the cold, my Chimaera has been consistently about 5 to 8 degrees coler in this weather, but still in the "normal" range between 70 and 90.
Harrigan
Driving in cold conditions? Worried about cold air blast? Unsure how to prevent chapped lips? You need Avon's "Cold Weather Nourishing Face Cream"
I slap it on before open top driving in these artic conditions. Damn fine product! Since I started using it I haven't had any chaps on my face! (oo-er, sounds kinda kinky
) Hutch
Hope you guys keeping it below 2000 aren't using any throttle. Full throttle @2000 is going to be much more damaging than 1/4 throttle @3000
I was told that it's best to warm an engine up with a bit of load on it, ie drive it rather than let it idle for 5 minutes, something to do with the oil meniscus in a big end bearing. Don't know what people in London are meant to do
I was told that it's best to warm an engine up with a bit of load on it, ie drive it rather than let it idle for 5 minutes, something to do with the oil meniscus in a big end bearing. Don't know what people in London are meant to do
hut49 said:
You need Avon's "Cold Weather Nourishing Face Cream"
LOL. Can't be any worse than their ZZ1s ... or is that another Avon, I wonder, actually ... wasn't there a bloke on Blakes's 7 called Avon .... was he the one that sat on your face? am I rambling? Do I win ten pounds? :cold air blast:
incorrigible said: Hope you guys keeping it below 2000 aren't using any throttle. Full throttle @2000 is going to be much more damaging than 1/4 throttle @3000
I was told that it's best to warm an engine up with a bit of load on it, ie drive it rather than let it idle for 5 minutes, something to do with the oil meniscus in a big end bearing. Don't know what people in London are meant to do
i dont think my neighbours would appreciate me idling for 5 minutes outside my house first thing in the morning (Chimaera + sports exhaust
) as for throttle use, I drive it like a wuss until I'm happy with the temp reading... if the engine's cold and i'm at the lights even someone in a 1 litre micra will be able to beat me once the lights go green!
tantivy said:
hut49 said:
You need Avon's "Cold Weather Nourishing Face Cream"
LOL. Can't be any worse than their ZZ1s ... or is that another Avon, I wonder, actually ... wasn't there a bloke on Blakes's 7 called Avon .... was he the one that sat on your face? am I rambling? Do I win ten pounds? :cold air blast:
I think I'm keeping up, but when did Avon sit on my face? If you have pictures, then ten pounds seems assured - from both sides (or should I say cheeks)
Hutch
randy said: The reason you have to warm a car up is to let the oil warm and get thinner so that it can penetrate the bearings. Whether the oil is warm enough is not shown accurately from water temp, you really need to wait for the oil temp to raise and for the oil pressure to drop.
Heartily seconded. 100% right randy - falling oil gauge is the way to go, provided it's working...good brief post.
ps Hutch - re 'chaps on your face' let's leave it there before someone contacts The Cheeky Girls...hee hee (any tivs in Transylvania I wonder?)
>> Edited by tantivy on Tuesday 7th January 21:43
All I have the same problem on mine - overcooling. When around town (in this cold weather) it generally sits about 70 - 90ish with the fans coming on as expected. However when on dual carriageways and motorways the car will not get past 60 (same as someone else mentioned above).
Shpub - you mentioned blocking off / covering part of the rad to sort this out in this cold weather to combat some of this issue. What do you suggest to do this with? Will this have an adverse affect to sitting in traffic?
Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers!
Shpub - you mentioned blocking off / covering part of the rad to sort this out in this cold weather to combat some of this issue. What do you suggest to do this with? Will this have an adverse affect to sitting in traffic?
Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers!
Plastic sheet and yes you may need to remove it in traffic. Try it and see.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Mine sits at between 50-60 once on the hoof, even if I push it as much as you can in these inclement conditions. Once I hit traffic and sit it almost instantly rises to above 70. My conclusion was very much the cold air blast theory, but even with putting the number plate back in the middle of the grill it's made no difference, so I keep an eye on the oil pressure and wait for it to drop before picking up the pace.
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