Rad removal

[mhowe7]

HI to all.

Just bought my first TVR (Chimaera 4.0HC, 1994 in Silver) so pretty new to this game and would appreciate any good advice.

Few teething problems to get sorted including a water leak. Seems from past forums that a leaking rad is a fairly common problem, mine seems to have the same signs, i.e coolant on the recess under the rad etc.
Can anyone tell me how easy it is to remove the rad myself, not had a go yet but wondered if there are any tips??

Cheers
Mark

[shpub]

It is not difficult but there the thing is a tight fit and the potential for bodywork damage is quite high. The bonnet needs to come off and the system drained. The fans have to come off (makes things lighter) and note where any rubber packing goes. The detailed procedure is in the bible 2.

Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk

[trefor]

Instead of removing the bonnet you can lift it higher by using something like a broom as a prop against the top of the engine (being careful where/how you place it).

It is a tight fit though. The rad is not too heavy, but it's wide so it helps if you're tall so you can reach in and over to drag it out. If you're vertically challenged I suggest an assistant.

Use lots of masking tape on the inner wings - you will sratch them.

T/.

[incorrigible]

You'll need two people to remove the bonnet, and with 2 people you'll probably find it fairly straightforward to remove the rad.

I found it easier to remove and re-attach the fans when the rad was out

With Tref on the masking tape, but put some cloth tape (duck tape etc) on top of the masking tape, the sharp edges will go straight through paper tape, don't put the duck tape straight on the paint though, the glue can stay on and be a real pain

[mhowe7]

Cheers for the advice, doesn't sound too bad.
Are all the fixings accesible in the engine bay or do I have to start removing the front grille to get access underneath?

Mark

[thornogson]

there is no need to remove the bonnet, comes out easy with two people to lift it. You cannot remove the fans until it is out as the bottom studs are not accessible. Have some contact adhesive ready as the foam packing pieces will need re sticking to the rad. Have tyraps and new jubilee clips ready, you may need two clips per hose if they have been really tight as the indentation in the hose will mean you will not be able to retighten enough to stop leaks.

[thornogson]

just noticed your point about the grill. You will only have to take it off if the fixing nuts are really tight and you cannot get them off because the rubber bush twists so you may have to remove the inner nut(s.

[K3NJW]

I'd get someone else to do it, or I did. Chap came round, took the old rad out, rebored it and put it back in for £198 + VAT. Much easier..... no chipping of paintwork, and no bonnet removeal. Actually it didn't even interfere with watching the telly.

[shpub]

The fan thing is very dependent on which of the several mounts you have and they can be removed from the mounts. Taking the bonnet off just makes life easier. I have heard stories of people knocking the stay out in mid rad lift and the bonnet falling down on their heads....

Steve

[swilly]

Based on the above I would get confirmation that the rad is actually leaking and not just a hose etc.

[Qube]

HI to all.

Just bought my first TVR (Chimaera 4.0HC, 1994 in Silver) so pretty new to this game and would appreciate any good advice.

Few teething problems to get sorted including a water leak. Seems from past forums that a leaking rad is a fairly common problem, mine seems to have the same signs, i.e coolant on the recess under the rad etc.
Can anyone tell me how easy it is to remove the rad myself, not had a go yet but wondered if there are any tips??

Cheers
Mark

You get coolant under the rad if the expansion bottle is too full, it pushes the coolant out past the cap thru expansion, check your expansion bottle to see how full it is, keep it topped up to about half way or lower only, if its to full remove the coolant with a thin plastic tube back to the half way mark, Don't listen to the TVR handbook or Bible , where it says to keep it topped up within 2" of the top, thats a sure sign of blowing the rad completely !.

[gideonr]

swilly said: Based on the above I would get confirmation that the rad is actually leaking and not just a hose etc.

Yes, mine is currently leaking from a hose, but the coolant is running down the hose and appearing on the garage floor directly underneath the radiator.

[AJPL]

I removed my rad thinking that that was where the leak was and it pressure tested OK. Turned out it was leaking from behind the water pump and the coolant somehow found its way to the gutter under the rad. Might be better to pressure test the system in situ to make sure exactly where it is coming from.

[shpub]

Qube said:

HI to all.

Don't listen to the TVR handbook or Bible , where it says to keep it topped up within 2" of the top, thats a sure sign of blowing the rad completely !.

This has been updated in the new edition.
Bible 2 states that this level varies from car to car and that some are bottom of tankers, some are middle tankers and others are 2 inch from the top tankers. Find where your car comes to and use that. The rad cap should cope with any excess fluid as it has a pressure valve that will release coolent. If this fails then the pressure will build and blow at the next weakest point. The rad caps usually fail open so that they leak BTW

[mhowe7]

Got the rad out, thanks for the advice on taping up the inner wings, to say it is tight is a bit of an understatement!!
Had rad tested and definitely leaking.

Been offered the option to add a bigger core to the rad thus giving more efficient cooling. However as temp seems ok when on the move, guess it is probably better to try and improve the fan system. Current fan guards a bit battered but do work.

Anyone tried a bigger core in the rad??
Standard fans seem to be Fiat Tipo! Are these ok or are there any better suggestions? (Previous forums mention a two-stage fan - where can I get these from?)

p.s. already got lower temp stat fitted

Cheers
Mark

[timshap]

Interesting comments...am just considering the same on my 94 500. I can honestly say that have not lost a drop of coolant over the past 5 years. The problem is when viewed from the grill (front) a large section of the vertical fins are damaged and extremely brittle.
in fact an area of approx 2 sq inches has sunk in 1/4 inch. The fins literally crumble when touched..
Having driven the car in warmer climes i am becoming aware of the fact that one day it might just go pop!
Views any one?? What are the options on recoring as same and costs of aluminium possibly?
Tim

[ribol]

If you want to change the rad fair enough but the fins are only there to increase the surface area to help cooling, if it does not leak and you have no problems I would leave well alone.

Edited to say: 2 sq inches is nothing in proportion to the size of the core

Ivan


>> Edited by ribol on Wednesday 26th February 08:55

[the dodger]

timshap - fins do most of heat transfer and are very important. They also support the tubes structurally. I would say IMHO that your rad is sufferring from external corrosion and needs re-coring or replacing.