advice on buying a Chim 500

[tiny]

Decided to buy a 500.I've read most of the older threads here and have received some great input directly from a few posters (particularly Boiler-thanks again) but could use some additional help.I'm a TVR novice but have recently moved from a 355( 18 months of great noise/presence but dodgy electrics)into a C4S ( 3 months of great reliability but limited presence).I'd be most grateful for any advice on the following -:

1)Dealer v private buying
2)Current pricing
3)Known problems
4)Other?

thanks in advance

[Mark.S]

1) I've bought both of mine privately with the re-assurance of an inspection by a specialist (David Batty in my case) prior to purchase. Some prefer the peace of mind a dealer/warranty may provide but its a large premium for possibly little gain.

2) Browse the for sale section of the site to get a rough idea of pricing. Usually 100+ cars to use as a guide.

3) Not heard any 500 specific problems mentioned. Not unusual to find a few niggles after buying but no widespread faults that I've heard of.

4) You know it makes sense!

[ribol]

Months of great noise/presence but dodgy electrics

No change there then

Ivan

[jigs]

4). Buy the one that says Griffith 500 on the back.

[Pies]

I'm currently in a similar position to you (novice) although i'm looking for a different car.I am getting a specilist to find the car and inspect it.This appear the best way as they are not pushing you to buy a particular car,as could be the case with a dealer.
Being a novice I would not contemplate trying to buy one on my own as it could take a while checking cars before you even know a good one from a bad one.

sorry cant comment on typical faults to look for

[Big Al.]

Pies said: I'm currently in a similar position to you (novice) although I’m looking for a different car. I am getting a specialist to find the car and inspect it. This appears the best way as they are not pushing you to buy a particular car, as could be the case with a dealer.
Being a novice I would not contemplate trying to buy one on my own as it could take a while checking cars before you even know a good one from a bad one.

I think that pies is almost on the button, if you know TVR's buy private, if you don't go trade.

Things do and will go tits up (as with any make).

It's a nice feeling when to break down (wash my mouth out with soap and water) to have a friendly voice on the end of a phone to give guidance and assistance too a mechanical numpty.

Even though you have had it checked out by an independent, he may not be there on the day you need him.

So you pays your money and you takes your choice!

It’s up to you.

Happy hunting.

[boiler]

Tiny,
I forgot to mention drive as many of them as possible, and practice the

[tiny]

Thanks to all for advice.Please don't flame me but I've changed my mind and am now going for a Griff 500
- I just felt I needed something a liitle harder after the Fezzer and it is an icon.After a fair amount of research I have tracked down two seemingly good cars - one with a main dealer (98R ) and one privately (2000X).Will let you know which way I jump or fall !

Thanks again

[UpTheIron]

Tiny,

Using brain rather than heart then the Griff is the "sensible" option - better residuals - for me the Chim has the better looks with a smattering of practicality (and no I'm not a golfer, but you can get a mountain bike in the boot).

I'm on my second Chim and have looked at many and was determined to buy my new one privately to save a few quid. I ended up buying from a dealer as they had the exact spec I wanted. It was mint when purchased and would have passed any inspection. 14 days later I am in need of major engine work to correct some serious water ingress.

Suddenly the premium I paid to get a warranty seems incredibly sensible.

But at the end of the day a TVR is a purchase that must be led from the heart, otherwise you would not buy at all. So just make sure you buy the car you want and to hell with rational thought.

[tiny]

Can you have your cake and eat it ? i.e buy privately ( with of course a professional inspection ) and then purchase a warranty which surely is esentially just another form of insurance - anybody done this?

[boiler]

If you are going to buy a Griff, I'll take all my advice back .

BTW the Chim 500 is no slouch either! Mine does 160 with 1/4 tonne of ballast in it.

[tiny]

Guys

Uptheiron -sorry to hear your engine probs
Pies - which agent are you using to find car?
Boiler - guess 90% of your excellent advice applies to Griff ownership so I'm going to hang onto it!

Am going to post my warranty Q in other forums - so apologies in advance for duplication this thread

[Pies]

I'm using Rob Ingleby his web site here

http://findasportscar.co.uk/

Others include James Agger his web site is here

www.jamesagger.com/index.asp

There are others but both of these have been recommended personaly to me

[Pies]

Forgot to mention

Join TVRCC if not done so

Get a copy of the "bible" by Steve Heath available from TVRCC web site

www.tvrcc.com/

[beano500]

Backing up everyone else's thoughts:

1)Dealer v private buying

Go halfway with an independent specialist, such as Adrian Blyth, James Agger, David Gerald or Fernhurst, or use the services of Rob Ingleby or Julian Lane or David Batty to check a prospective private purchase. Contact the factory to get more details of a private purchase - they have records and can be really helpful (don't forget an HPI check!)


2)Current pricing

Like anything else, it's worth what someone will pay for it. Generally Chimaera's are in good supply secondhand at the moment (cf Griffith!) but a good 500 will probably be at the upper limit compared with an average 4 litre.

3)Known problems

If you can't find a known problem discussed someone on PH it probably isn't a known problem! Keep reading! oh and buy "The Bible" from Mr Heath. He didn't toil for all those hours for nothing!!!!

4)Other?

Spend some time doing face exercises ready for teh inevitable stretching which will occur with ownership

[Steve_T]

1) Buy privately, using a good independent to inspect your potential purchase and keep hold of the cash you save vs dealer prices in case you have a big problem. That way you don't have to commit all your money straight away.

3) 500s generate more heat and therefore the cooling system must be up to scratch. I've never had a problem, however I do have Leven's low temp kit installed in mine, which has given considerable peace of mind sitting in traffic. There are other similar solutions out there from www.modwise.com and so on. If you spend quite a lot of time in traffic, as I do, then I think these are well worth a look.

4) Other bits and bobs
a) Is the driver's footwell carpet in - no, well the car probably leaks then. Fear not it can be sorted.
b) Are the carpets fading in the sunlight? A new set is a few hundred notes fitted.
c) Get the bonnet open and have a look at the wishbones as these tend to rust. Not expensive to replace, but perhaps an indicator of how well the car has been looked after.
d) Have a look at the tyres, good boots for these cars are Bridgestone SO2s or SO3s. Anything different and I'd be careful the owner hadn't been skimping elsewhere too.
e) Stone chips on the nose? Another few hundred for a respray, possibly more. Again an indicator of how hard a life the car has had.
f) Reliability - someone's bound to ask you. Mine's done 20000 more miles in my hands and never let me down once. The backup for the Tiv has had a less fortunate history, so don't believe the hype!

Just my five cents,
Steve

P.S. The extra big boot is a really useful as for a start putting the roof in is easy rather than requiring surgical precisionm plus you can get loads of stuff in on trips to Le Mans etc.