Is waxoyl a silent assasin?

[Chuffmeister]

Midasman said:

For what it's worth, I've noticed a big difference between the original Waxoyle and the black stuff.

Original in my experience gives excellent rust prevention, stays flexible and is very durable.

The black stuff however is evil! Although it looks good when it goes on, it seems to let the surface rusting continue underneath and starts to flake off with the rust within a few months if the conditions are damp, to the point you have to remove it and start again (with something better!). Don't know why this should be but it also applies to their underseal with added Waxoyle. Also, compared to the original it's much messier to apply and not pleasant when you are subsequently working on the car.

+1

[GTRene]

I don't know but, would/could it be a good idea to use say a spray like plasti dip for the chassis as protection? a few thick layers on some parts that are vulnerable for stones/chips, if its not good any more you can peel it off
otherwise its pretty stubborn stuff I guess, could be good?
I'm not a fan of the sticky brown wax-oil on a clean chassis...its good/nice stuff inside the pipes but not on the outside, so maybe some sort of plasti dipp or other rubber spray stuff can do good, you can get it in many colours me thinks...and does not feel dirty/sticky when its cured.

or like this brand (don't know it but sounds good?) also many colours and some say also stone protection (smaler of course)

http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-paint-coating-el...

idea or?

would something like this be better...? sounds good too, but not in many colours I guess...

http://www.kwasny.de/index.php?id=207&L=1

Edited by GTRene on Friday 1st August 23:07

[kevg]

Had a car done professionally by the dealer - poor job and it rusted out. Right, next new car I did myself to ensure thorough job - never known a car rust out so quickly (8 yrs). Wife's car is 16 years old, never had the dreaded gunge near it and the metal's still sound.

[bababoom]

Ive just spent the best part of today removing the £250 worth of under seal the previous owner paid to have done last year.
The wax oil or what ever the stuff used seems like good stuff but there was no prep work done at all.
Its shocking the job that been done, While I was scraping it off there was even places between the outriggers and body where they'd just sprayed over the st even found a piece of coal under the under seal!
I think if curiosity hadn't played on my mind the chassie would have been rotted through by this time next year.
Lucky enough its still solid and saveable.
Even though I didn't pay for it I really feel like naming and shaming the place that done the job.

Edited by bababoom on Friday 17th July 21:21

[Chuffmeister]

Don't bother with it (Waxoil). Strip back, prep and paint. Waxoil only traps the air and moisture on unprepared surfaces, which inevitably leads to rust. Once you have rust treated, under coated and painted, use clear Dinitrol for added protection.

Otherwise, body off, media blast, hot spray galvanise, etch prime and two pack epoxy mastic for long and comprehensive protection.

[fausTVR]

Each winter while SORNed, the car is up high on stands and I clean everything I can reach from beneath with spray oils and rags/paintbrush. It is actually quite an enjoyable process. If any corrosion is evident, I will treat and paint as needed. It looks about forty times better than coatings and nothing can hide from the eye apart from the outrigger tops of course. I've used the rubber flap trick over the outrigger ends before and it works well but is difficult to make it stick to the wheel arch in the first place.
Obviously it helps a lot if the chassis is pretty good to start with. So it is just a case of keeping on top.

[valvecap]

I have used Waxoyl (the original Finnagans) on a Yamaha scooter on internal pressed steel parts that go rusty and can eventually rust through. It works well in preventing rust and also stopping existing rust from spreading, Just wire brush off the loose rust first, unlike underseal Waxoyl penetrates rust and stops it getting worse. It does no set hard. .

[iPedro]

450 Paul said:

I had a suprise when I inspected my X Reg Chim. Few spots to rub down turned into 6 weekends of rubbing down and chipping away flaking powder coating that at first looked in great condition! After that I wouldnt let anyone look after the chassis for me. Speaking to fellow TVR DIYers they recc up on axel stands once a year for a good look and re apply of the anti rust stuff. I found that thining it out with white spirit worked well as you dont want it to thick. Also dont do on a cold day as the spray gun soon gunges up!

Can understand every pro and con in this forum because I've had same. Metal has to be rust free, otherwise, if the application of Waxoyl is applied thick enough to create a large enough, sealed 'bubble', any existing rust will continue to accelerate under the bubble once the OIL part of the Waxoyl dries out and hardens. You can only afford reckless application on a perfect e.g. brand new surface. Rust inhibition is the oil part, not the wax part, so thinning the stuff down with oil I have found the only solution to preventing further corrosion. Flaky paint under front lip of a bonnet the worst scenario for Waxoyl as heat from the engine dries up the oil part very quickly and the wax proves only to seal in the rusting procedure. Under rear skirt, so far I have inspected a job on my MK2 Scirocco that I experimented with about 12 months ago - no one else has ever touched my car in 21 years of ownership - and that was, remove as much rust as possible with a sander/angle grinder/by hand, full bottle (about 6 or 7 coats, application just before last coat dries) of Kurust (I know it's not that great but better than nothing), dry for a day in hot weather, followed by Tetroseal Wax Oil - you can oil it down a bit with engine oil if required. NO PAINT. So far, it seems to be working very well, and the Kurust actually really hardens up the metal the more you put on. For exterior painted areas (e.g.front lip under bonnet), forget any metal inhibition, even Dinitrol. Unless very oily, you aint gonna stop rust once it's started - that cancer needs grinding/cutting completely away from your P&J first, without any exceptions.

Actually there may be one exception but only suitable in certain areas that never get cleaned or reached with a hosepipe - you decide. If you want to treat rust in hard-to-reach areas under the body so it never goes any worse, e.g. top side of fuel tank join and rear cross member bar, try motorcycle chain lube spray! This stuff NEVER dries out, it's like syrup and is VERY sticky (and messy!) (designed so it won't fly off a spinning motorcycle chain). You can remove it easily with diesel or white sprit, etc, so no worries about over-application. Over time it will develop a dusty, dirty layer that will protect it from further dust and dirt sticking to it and building up too much crap. And with the spray pipe connected, gives a very directional application if required. This stuff NEVER dries out, so it really will stop dead any further corrosion. Make sure it's not the DRY chain lube that dries to a white finish. That stuff's rubbish even for motorcycle chains! I use Silkolene Pro Chain. FYI, riding for 35 years Silkolene has consistently been the best at everything oil to do with motorcycles, including racing.

Areas I use chain lube as a corrosion protection on my car (and that require spray-on application as difficult to reach):

• UNDER the front engine bay panel - the top, front panel facing you, you rest your tools on when you lift the bonnet.
• All the topside areas of suspension including metal parts of the brake line system
• Fuel filler pipe and surrounding bracketry, once all plastic cowling has been removed first.
• Fuel tank sides. Bottom and top side actually not needed - just the sides and where the upper and lower join
• All intricate metal areas you can't be bothered to reach with a paint brush whilst you're Waxoyling - you could finish off with the Waxoyl brush if required!

As I say it is sticky, so don't be alarmed 2 minutes later you notice dandelion seeds and other floating debris starting to build up on the surfaces already! This is for areas you're never going to clean. Your MoT guy will stop hating you once the stuff has a nice light coating of dust and dirt!

Edited by iPedro on Saturday 11th August 12:44

[blitzracing]

I had the joy of owing a 1978 Lancia Monte Carlo that I pumped about 5 gallons of waxoyl into over the years. OK, so each year come MOT time the local car welder guy would be ready with steel plate, and a wet towel for my arrival to patch the car up and put it out as there was so much waxoyl in the cavities it would ignite with the welder. Trying to stop a 1970s Lancia rusting was an impossible task.

[LLantrisant]

Wayoyl is a very "old" fashioned way of preventng corrossion....and its a very "dirty" one

today´s modern corrossion protections like fluid-film, mike sanders are transparetn waxes or greases which give a much better protection and in the same time a neater look

for me, since years, a wayoled car is a walk-away......its an indicator that the seller wants to "hide" soomething.

[Springbank]

Totally agree with PRTVR. Had my 1995 chimaera for 19 years and used old engine oil each winter and then stone chip on the areas prone to stones from the wheels. Chassis was still as good as when I purchased the car. Just sold car last month and guy who purchased car couldn't believe how good the chassis was. So much so he asked me for details of the oil I used - my answer was old used oil!!

[Sardonicus]

Waxoyl DIY rubbish Dinitol is a pro product that I can vouch for as can many major manufacturers but been proved time and time again if you can stand the oily mess old engine oil works I have witnessed 30 year old + door bottoms for example on models that are prone to tin worm in these areas with zero signs of corrosion and it creeps which is exactly what your after its a yearly job to reapply however if there are drain holes in sealed cavity's no problem

[LLantrisant]

and the best rust-protection is:

clean the car underneath!!! regulary!!


if you drive on dirty roads (by the way: are there any "clean" roads in Ulk besides the motorway?): wash the car when returning back home or at least 1 time per week.

if you even drive in winter (dirty AND salty roads): wash the car when returning back home.

you would be surprised who long the car would be in good nick...without the usual corrosion problems on the chassis and suspension parts.

some of the corrossion problems have to do with the "mentality" of maintenance from the owners.

Edited by LLantrisant on Thursday 16th August 10:41

[Sardonicus]

LLantrisant said:

and the best rust-protection is:

clean the car underneath!!! regulary!!


if you drive on dirty roads (by the way: are there any "clean" roads in Ulk besides the motorway?): wash the car when returning back home or at least 1 tome per week.

if you even drive in winter (dirty AND salty roads): wash the car when returning back home.

you would be surprised who long the car would be in good nick...without the usual corrosion problems on the chassis and suspension parts.

some of the corrossion problems have to do with the "mentality" of maintenance from the owners.

Agreed many owners prefer to wash the body and consider they have done their bit for preserving the car

[gavgavgav]

Anyone tried ACF50? Works wonder on bikes over the winter, no mess really.