Discussion
ChimpOnGas said:
Good price you say Daz, not after you've put one of those tiny over priced bottles of ZDDP additive in it.
Completely unnecessary too.
Just buy the Penrite I recommended, its all you need.
Dave Completely unnecessary too.
Just buy the Penrite I recommended, its all you need.
Does old gas bag use any oil?
I'm on millers and it seems to like to drink it .No smoke and no marks on the garage floor but it's going some where
It's doing about 1/2 a mark to 750 miles
It may be time to change
jojackson4 said:
ChimpOnGas said:
Good price you say Daz, not after you've put one of those tiny over priced bottles of ZDDP additive in it.
Completely unnecessary too.
Just buy the Penrite I recommended, its all you need.
Dave Completely unnecessary too.
Just buy the Penrite I recommended, its all you need.
Does old gas bag use any oil?
I'm on millers and it seems to like to drink it .No smoke and no marks on the garage floor but it's going some where
It's doing about 1/2 a mark to 750 miles
It may be time to change
Petrol or gas, makes no difference, the oil stays cleaner longer now its on LPG but the consumption remains exactly the same.
Used half a litre every 1500 miles on Millers CSS 20w60, uses half a litre every 1500 miles on Penrite HPR15 15w60.
Some Rover V8s may use less but I believe this is quite acceptable oil consumption for this engine.
Peter, yours seems to be about double mine but I still think this could be viewed as being as within acceptable limits for a Rover V8.
I doubt changing your oil will have much effect on it unless you're currently running your car on a very light oil.
I'd just keep a close eye on it and keep the level topped up, if it starts to consume significantly more then it would be worth investigating further.
But for now, as it is, I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.
Edited by ChimpOnGas on Sunday 8th December 21:45
chim666 said:
The TVR v8's been to TVR Power for a bit of fettling before being installed in the car, also I think you'll find that your average 1960s Rover wasn't running at anywhere near the temperature, revs or performance that our TVRs are, that's why a synthetic rather than mineral oil is specified.
Use a 20/50 if you want, but I wouldn't buy your car off you
I disagree with you, the main advantage synthetic has over mineral is longevity as in modern engines with 10 of 15 k service intervals. If you are changing it every 3 or 5 k as most of us are a good mineral is just as good in these types of engine. Use a 20/50 if you want, but I wouldn't buy your car off you
My Chim has 95 k on it and uses no oil ( apart from what leaks out).
[quote=jojackson4]It there triton I think it's a bit pissy
I may have to try the pen stuff
To go with the sump plug magnet and the v8 filter
Back to the oil it doesn't get used at this time of year so a thicker oil
May be better?[/quote
You wont go wrong with Penrite HPR15 15w60.
And there's no need to add any expensive tiny bottles of ZDDP additive.
http://www.classic-oils.net/Product-349/Products-b...
Sadly neither a magnet or a good filter will have any impact on your oil consumption, but will help to protect your engine.
Do you mean Titan oil?
If so Titan is a brand name of Fuchs Lubricants who produce good quality oils.
The important question is "What grade is it?"
what do you consider "a bit pissy?"
If your Titan oil is a 5W-40 weight or lighter, then you might see slightly lower oil consumption from a heavier oil like Penrite HPR15 15w60.
Bit if you're using Titan 20w50 the Penrite HPR15 15w60 isn't going to make much difference.
I know you said there are no drips on the floor under your car, but these engines can leak badly, possibly leaking almost as much as they burn.
Get under the car & have another look, you may find all the oil is just getting blown back over the chassis.
Finally, make sure all your engine breathers are free, as even a partially blocked breather filter and/or breather pipes can cause high oil consumption.
Penrite HPR15 15w60 is an excellent oil, but it isn't a miracle cure for high oil consumption.
I may have to try the pen stuff
To go with the sump plug magnet and the v8 filter
Back to the oil it doesn't get used at this time of year so a thicker oil
May be better?[/quote
You wont go wrong with Penrite HPR15 15w60.
And there's no need to add any expensive tiny bottles of ZDDP additive.
http://www.classic-oils.net/Product-349/Products-b...
Sadly neither a magnet or a good filter will have any impact on your oil consumption, but will help to protect your engine.
Do you mean Titan oil?
If so Titan is a brand name of Fuchs Lubricants who produce good quality oils.
The important question is "What grade is it?"
what do you consider "a bit pissy?"
If your Titan oil is a 5W-40 weight or lighter, then you might see slightly lower oil consumption from a heavier oil like Penrite HPR15 15w60.
Bit if you're using Titan 20w50 the Penrite HPR15 15w60 isn't going to make much difference.
I know you said there are no drips on the floor under your car, but these engines can leak badly, possibly leaking almost as much as they burn.
Get under the car & have another look, you may find all the oil is just getting blown back over the chassis.
Finally, make sure all your engine breathers are free, as even a partially blocked breather filter and/or breather pipes can cause high oil consumption.
Penrite HPR15 15w60 is an excellent oil, but it isn't a miracle cure for high oil consumption.
AV8 said:
I disagree with you, the main advantage synthetic has over mineral is longevity as in modern engines with 10 of 15 k service intervals. If you are changing it every 3 or 5 k as most of us are a good mineral is just as good in these types of engine.
My Chim has 95 k on it and uses no oil ( apart from what leaks out).
^^^This^^^My Chim has 95 k on it and uses no oil ( apart from what leaks out).
I'd happily run my car on a decent mineral oil with zinc like Valvoline VR1 20w50, as long as its changed regularly.
There's absolutely nothing wrong with mineral oils, as always regular oil changes are the key.
But if you could get a fully synthetic for not much more, why wouldn't you?
In my opinion this stuff is perfect for our cars.
Its only £6 more than the Valvoline VR1 mineral and will stand far higher temperatures before it starts to break down, if desired you could also extend your changes by a few thousand miles with no risk.
And at £30.95 for 5 litres of quality fully synthetic full zinc 15w60 oil, its also a bargain.
Like I say.... "Why wouldn't you?"
ChimpOnGas said:
^^^This^^^
I'd happily run my car on a decent mineral oil with zinc like Valvoline VR1 20w50, as long as its changed regularly.
There's absolutely nothing wrong with mineral oils, as always regular oil changes are the key.
But if you could get a fully synthetic for not much more, why wouldn't you?
In my opinion this stuff is perfect for our cars.
Its only £6 more than the Valvoline VR1 mineral and will stand far higher temperatures before it starts to break down, if desired you could also extend your changes by a few thousand miles with no risk.
And at £30.95 for 5 litres of quality fully synthetic full zinc 15w60 oil, its also a bargain.
Like I say.... "Why wouldn't you?"
Have often thought of trying the Penrite myself as it seems to be great value, but it is the fact that I can source the VR1 locally that swings it for me.I'd happily run my car on a decent mineral oil with zinc like Valvoline VR1 20w50, as long as its changed regularly.
There's absolutely nothing wrong with mineral oils, as always regular oil changes are the key.
But if you could get a fully synthetic for not much more, why wouldn't you?
In my opinion this stuff is perfect for our cars.
Its only £6 more than the Valvoline VR1 mineral and will stand far higher temperatures before it starts to break down, if desired you could also extend your changes by a few thousand miles with no risk.
And at £30.95 for 5 litres of quality fully synthetic full zinc 15w60 oil, its also a bargain.
Like I say.... "Why wouldn't you?"
As for the Comma stuff, personally I wouldn't use it when something as good as VR1 is available at the price it is.
Years ago my dad used to buy Comma oil for his chainsaw but he wouldn't use it in his car.
TVR Beaver said:
SILICONEKID346HP said:
TVR Beaver said:
Too much ZZP can be detrimental... 2000 ppm is very high 
VR1 contains 2000ppm`s"Zinc/Phosphorus 0.14/0.13 "
or am I up for a whoosh parakeet?
SILICONEKID346HP said:
The zzp additive has 1800ppm in 5 litres of oil ,Most fully synthetic oils have around 800ppm .. Is that to much for a non cat engine ?
Daz, too much zinc won't do any harm at all, as long as you don't have any catalytic converters.But those tiny overpriced bottles of "ZDDP Plus" are just a waste of money.
If you use the mineral Valvoline VR1 20w50, or better still the semi-synthetic Millers CSS 20w60, or evenbetter still the fully synthetic Penrite HPR15 15w60 you'll have all the zinc you need.
Adding more zinc over a certain level doesn't give you more protection, it simply doesn't work like that.
All you're doing is wasting money
Just stop Efin about and buy the right oil mate.
ChimpOnGas said:
SILICONEKID346HP said:
The zzp additive has 1800ppm in 5 litres of oil ,Most fully synthetic oils have around 800ppm .. Is that to much for a non cat engine ?
Daz, too much zinc won't do any harm at all, as long as you don't have any catalytic converters.But those tiny overpriced bottles of "ZDDP Plus" are just a waste of money.
If you use the mineral Valvoline VR1 20w50, or better still the semi-synthetic Millers CSS 20w60, or evenbetter still the fully synthetic Penrite HPR15 15w60 you'll have all the zinc you need.
Adding more zinc over a certain level doesn't give you more protection, it simply doesn't work like that.
All you're doing is wasting money
Just stop Efin about and buy the right oil mate.
Most modern fully synthetic oils only have around 800ppm`s.
What level of zinc would you recommend for these engines ?
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