Plenum and Intake Mods
Discussion
.350Matt said:
If you want to set your ignition timing up then you'll need a timing light, preferably one of those with an advance dial so you can find out exactly where the timing is now.
Confirm that the TDC mark on the pulley is correct - many are not - no. 1 sparkplug out and use feelers / dial gauge etc
Mark TDC on pulley with white paint / tippex
Fit timing light in line with no 1 cylinder
Loosen the dizzy clamp bolt - not enough so the dizzy moves freely just so you can move it by hand without it being too stiff
Remove vacuum advance line from dizzy
Start engine run until warm - (mabye do this before fitting timing light etc)
Aim light at the white mark and so so you can see the pointer on the block,
Adjust strobe light with dial until the pointer and TDC mark line up
Read off dial for timing in degrees.
Set dial to where you want it to be ( 8-10°BTDC is fairly normal)
Swing dizzy so TDC mark and pointer line up
Refit everything then go and drive and see if you've got any detonation, typically happens at peak torque ( 3000-4000Rpm) under full throttle.
If you can hear it over everything else come back a few degrees
To do this properly you need a detonation detection system or det cans as they are known
http://autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=1353
Easy eh?
Matt
And for those of us not into electronics - you can buy one off the shelf here :Confirm that the TDC mark on the pulley is correct - many are not - no. 1 sparkplug out and use feelers / dial gauge etc
Mark TDC on pulley with white paint / tippex
Fit timing light in line with no 1 cylinder
Loosen the dizzy clamp bolt - not enough so the dizzy moves freely just so you can move it by hand without it being too stiff
Remove vacuum advance line from dizzy
Start engine run until warm - (mabye do this before fitting timing light etc)
Aim light at the white mark and so so you can see the pointer on the block,
Adjust strobe light with dial until the pointer and TDC mark line up
Read off dial for timing in degrees.
Set dial to where you want it to be ( 8-10°BTDC is fairly normal)
Swing dizzy so TDC mark and pointer line up
Refit everything then go and drive and see if you've got any detonation, typically happens at peak torque ( 3000-4000Rpm) under full throttle.
If you can hear it over everything else come back a few degrees
To do this properly you need a detonation detection system or det cans as they are known
http://autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=1353
Easy eh?
Matt
http://www.thor-racing.co.uk/KNOCK_BLOCK_-LNK_KNKB...
crackedfinger said:
ACT
Really!That's odd, as I've received a smooth elbow from ACT and it's cetainly not made from silicon but rubber. Having just checked their site as far as I can see there's no mention of them being silicon either.
Their coolant pipes maybe, but the TVR induction hose.......no.
Crazycraig said:
crackedfinger said:
ACT
Really!That's odd, as I've received a smooth elbow from ACT and it's cetainly not made from silicon but rubber. Having just checked their site as far as I can see there's no mention of them being silicon either.
Their coolant pipes maybe, but the TVR induction hose.......no.
GreenV8S said:
Crazycraig said:
crackedfinger said:
ACT
Really!That's odd, as I've received a smooth elbow from ACT and it's cetainly not made from silicon but rubber. Having just checked their site as far as I can see there's no mention of them being silicon either.
Their coolant pipes maybe, but the TVR induction hose.......no.
We can supply Silicone elbows, but the big problem is cost, don't forget our induction hose kits also include hoses up to 4ft long, in silicone they would cost alot more and could kink easily, the satin finish black rubber we use is well within spec for heat resistance and is also popular for non modifying owners (90% of the customers) as it gives a "standard look" i.e looks like the car left the factory with them fitted.
Tim ACT Ltd
Tim ACT Ltd
russ turner said:
crispian22 said:
just fitted a thermal plenum spacer plate from tvr power,also whilst it was off,polished up all the inside's of the trumpets(was thinking of shortening them but need to read more into it)fitted a silicone elbow from plenum to afm,and straight silicone hose from afm to filter,it has made it a completly different car to drive,throttle response is infinatly better,it seems a hell of a lot quicker too throughout the whole rev range.for the cost of a few hours work in the garage and the silcone hose's(£68)it is probably the best thing(and cheapest)i've done to mine so far!!
CrisWhere did you get the silicone hoses from ?
Russ
Been monitoring the induction discussions with interest, just a couple of questions...
1) Blending the trumpet base - What exactly is that then?
2) The standard filter is a Pipercross style foam filter and I notice that the ACT induction kit includes a K&N paper filter. It was my understanding that a foam filter flows air easier but is harder to keep clean. So which is best for our cars?
3) Apparently the optimum plenum volume should be equal to the engine capacity so whilst going to all the trouble to make an insulator is it not worth including a spacer to enlarge it on a 450 or 500? I think TVR Power sell them.
Cheers,
Al
1) Blending the trumpet base - What exactly is that then?
2) The standard filter is a Pipercross style foam filter and I notice that the ACT induction kit includes a K&N paper filter. It was my understanding that a foam filter flows air easier but is harder to keep clean. So which is best for our cars?
3) Apparently the optimum plenum volume should be equal to the engine capacity so whilst going to all the trouble to make an insulator is it not worth including a spacer to enlarge it on a 450 or 500? I think TVR Power sell them.
Cheers,
Al
Al 450 said:
Been monitoring the induction discussions with interest, just a couple of questions...
1) Blending the trumpet base - What exactly is that then?
2) The standard filter is a Pipercross style foam filter and I notice that the ACT induction kit includes a K&N paper filter. It was my understanding that a foam filter flows air easier but is harder to keep clean. So which is best for our cars?
3) Apparently the optimum plenum volume should be equal to the engine capacity so whilst going to all the trouble to make an insulator is it not worth including a spacer to enlarge it on a 450 or 500? I think TVR Power sell them.
Cheers,
Al
1 / when trumpets are removed and base plate is blended (do a search and you'll find images)1) Blending the trumpet base - What exactly is that then?
2) The standard filter is a Pipercross style foam filter and I notice that the ACT induction kit includes a K&N paper filter. It was my understanding that a foam filter flows air easier but is harder to keep clean. So which is best for our cars?
3) Apparently the optimum plenum volume should be equal to the engine capacity so whilst going to all the trouble to make an insulator is it not worth including a spacer to enlarge it on a 450 or 500? I think TVR Power sell them.
Cheers,
Al
2/ we supply both filters both flow the same when clean / new
3/ Plenum volume increase offers tiny gain the distasnce from trumpet to plenum roof is the main factor.
saw a guy at tvr power on sat blending a base for a 500 taraka,he reckons that this does give a significant increase in bhp but at a loss to mid range torque,depends how you want the engine to behave really?
i'm going to shorten all of the existing trumpets for starters,see how i go with it?
i'm going to shorten all of the existing trumpets for starters,see how i go with it?
Hi,
I've bought the super flare trumpet set and thermal gasket, however, I need some help please?
When I undo the plenum hex bolts to remove the top half of the plenum chamber, I can not actually remove the cover from the car as the steppa motor assembly on the back of the plenum fouls under the bulkhead meshy type cover at the bottom of the windscreen. Is there a knack to removing the plenum or do I need to take it off another way?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Chris
I've bought the super flare trumpet set and thermal gasket, however, I need some help please?
When I undo the plenum hex bolts to remove the top half of the plenum chamber, I can not actually remove the cover from the car as the steppa motor assembly on the back of the plenum fouls under the bulkhead meshy type cover at the bottom of the windscreen. Is there a knack to removing the plenum or do I need to take it off another way?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Chris
Managed to squeeze the plenum chamber out with brute force in the end. A blow torch to each of the old trumpets soon had them loose enough to pull out. Just got to wait overnight for the epoxy to cure before trial blast. Also fitted the full ACT solid induction pipe system and K&N filter. Hoping to notice a difference with my 400!
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