Discussion
Hi guys had a very good day today finally managed to lift the body off using six no supports, front and rear, and 2 on each side. I jacked the whole car as high as i could safely get it, placed the supports underneath the body,and slowly lowered the chassis down to the floor [see 1st pic] The next step was to build the cuplock scaffold frame around the car,and using wooden supports to span across the scaffold, lift the body high enough using the threaded supports of the scaffold to slowly raise the body to the required height. Sorry if this sounds a bit complicated but it was fairly easy [2nd pic shows the scaff frame] Once the chassis was rolled out from under the car the body was relowered back onto the 6 no supports where it will now no doubt stay for some considerable time. Will post my chassis resto progress at later dates. The scaff frame i made to suit, and once i have finished with it will be available to fellow tvr owners to borrow free of charge,Tom
Thats amazing, All proper cars should be built like these. I will do this over winter if I still have mine... Looking good!
Is it a huge job - did you shear most of the bolts?
What do you have lined up whilst the body is off?
Keep up the good work, hope you will keep us updated with loads of pics...
All the best,
Tom
Is it a huge job - did you shear most of the bolts?
What do you have lined up whilst the body is off?
Keep up the good work, hope you will keep us updated with loads of pics...
All the best,
Tom
There's good stuff about body off/2"lift on the Griffith pages.
Does anyone know if there are any differences between the Griff and Chim when it comes to lifting the body?
Ideally I'd like to lift the tub enough to get a good look at the condition of the tops of the out riggers before deciding whether to go the whole hog and take it off.
http://www.thegriffithpages.com/modifications/chas...
Does anyone know if there are any differences between the Griff and Chim when it comes to lifting the body?
Ideally I'd like to lift the tub enough to get a good look at the condition of the tops of the out riggers before deciding whether to go the whole hog and take it off.
http://www.thegriffithpages.com/modifications/chas...
Edited by poorpeet on Tuesday 4th November 10:12
poorpeet said:
There's good stuff about body off/2"lift on the Griffith pages.
Does anyone know if there are any differences between the Griff and Chim when it comes to lifting the body?
Ideally I'd like to lift the tub enough to get a good look at the condition of the tops of the out riggers before deciding whether to go the whole hog and take it off.
I wrote that (with a lot of help from AnthonyJ's original body off article)Does anyone know if there are any differences between the Griff and Chim when it comes to lifting the body?
Ideally I'd like to lift the tub enough to get a good look at the condition of the tops of the out riggers before deciding whether to go the whole hog and take it off.
It might be slightly easier on the Chim if you can get to the two lower front body to chassis bolts below/behind the radiator. It's a pain getting the Griff rad out and if you don't have to do it on the Chim so much the better. Any differences should be very minor IMO.
Ask away if you've any questions.
Hi again thought it was about time for an update. I have managed to totally strip the chassis which was far from easy as everything was seized solid. The outriggers were intact with only one or two holes but plenty of rust all round. For a twelve year old car with full history it was quite scary to see the state of the chassis and some of the wishbones. The two front lower had both serious corrosion, not noticable at first but once inspected closely off the car they are fit only for scrap. Also the drivers side upper has some corrosion so ill renew this one as well. All the others were in very good condition due i think to them being very well waxoiled. I started to fab and predrill all new mounting plates,[see pics] and having purchased some seamless tube of the correct dia, i have now left the cutting/reweld of the new tubing to a local engineering firm. Once this is complete i will post pics and cost details as a reference for anyone else. The next step after welding is shot/bead blast and primer. I had thought about getting it repowder coated but epoxy primer and two pack is the way im going. Again costing etc will be posted. Im not obsessed with how much will it cost, but i have found when you mention "Im restoring a tvr" the price seems to esculate so any pointers i can give to anyone else i will. Will update again in the new year, Tom
Body off jobs, engine rebuilds and many other things concerning cars no problem, digital cameras, computers etc a different story. Chris i have all on to get the camera to take pics, uploading them onto the forums i have not got a clue, thats where george my youngest son comes in very handy.
Great pic's, This looks like to only way to do the job properly, and i guess there are a lot of Chims that look fine on the out side, but if you did this is the only way to find out the truth.
I am under taking a similar project, but not with my Chim. The out riggers on this car we rusty and the rest of the car looked fine, if fact one specialist garage said it just needed them replacing and a respray. but i have now replaced around half of the chassis, well the guy who is doing it has.
I looked into having the car dipped and primed by a well know Midland company, but two thing put me off,1st as you said when i told them what the car was the price doubled from my first enquire, when i did not them the make, and second, they have to drill 1/2 inch holes in the chassis to let the acid out that kills the rust. I have seen first hand that it is hard to flush it all out, and it seeping out 6 months later. So i went down the good old sand blasting route and then zinc paint as a first coat.
Good luck with the project, its good to see it being done PROPERLY.
I am under taking a similar project, but not with my Chim. The out riggers on this car we rusty and the rest of the car looked fine, if fact one specialist garage said it just needed them replacing and a respray. but i have now replaced around half of the chassis, well the guy who is doing it has.
I looked into having the car dipped and primed by a well know Midland company, but two thing put me off,1st as you said when i told them what the car was the price doubled from my first enquire, when i did not them the make, and second, they have to drill 1/2 inch holes in the chassis to let the acid out that kills the rust. I have seen first hand that it is hard to flush it all out, and it seeping out 6 months later. So i went down the good old sand blasting route and then zinc paint as a first coat.
Good luck with the project, its good to see it being done PROPERLY.
Hi Kenny bought the car in sept 08 and for the right price but had fully intended to do a full body off no matter what. I knew what i was buying i am just trying to point others in the right direction concerning the possible state of a chassis on what otherwise looks a fantastic car. My car from underneath just using axle stands[which is the best most would be buyers would have] looked ok, i poked with the screwdriver etc and could not put it thru anywhere, its only when you remove the body that the real state of the chassis becomes obvious. As for the wishbones im being a bit particular but thats because i intend to use poly bushes, and any weakness in the wishbones using these could prove disastrous, plus for my sins i must be one of those sad TVR nutters who loves having the car in millions of bits[well during the winter i do] thanks Tom.
kenny Chim 4 said:
How long have you owned the car?
I would have walked away from buying a TVR with that much rust to the outriggers and wishbones- which can be so obviously spotted upon inspection.
He's owned an S for a few years. Looks to me as though he bought the car as a project. He doesn't seem phased by stripping it right down. If i had a garage i would love to do the same!!I would have walked away from buying a TVR with that much rust to the outriggers and wishbones- which can be so obviously spotted upon inspection.
Only the underside of the chassis is visible to inspection remember! This can be made to look very good with waxoyl and hammerite.
I've found the same price inflation if you use tell suppliers the 3 letter word! I would ask for a chassis blast 'for my old kitcar', spaceframe chassis! Same at the breakers if you are looking for a ford/vauxhall bit....
Rather nasty that those outrigger holes are on the top of the triangular plates - completely impossible to see on pre purchase inspection. I reckon there will be quite a few griffs/chims around with holes just like those with owners none the wiser.....
Rather nasty that those outrigger holes are on the top of the triangular plates - completely impossible to see on pre purchase inspection. I reckon there will be quite a few griffs/chims around with holes just like those with owners none the wiser.....
Guy's
I currently I have my car up on axle stands. The chassis is not in that bad a condition in all honesty the wish bones could do with tidying up and there's a little odd patch of rust on the rails thats all. However I'm thinking of doing a body lift 2" to properly paint the rails taking the wish bones off re bushing.
Beats siting in watching eastenders, corrie, emerdale and the other crap the missus watches
Due to size of my garage I will only be able to do one side at a time therefore I'm thinking of lifting one side at a time. As anyone tried this? Of course I will remove all the bolts. With me taking the wishbones off I'm thinking I can get away from disconnecting the steering.
So some more questions
Do you have to fully remove the petrol tank?
Is it possible to get at the front bolts without removing the rad. How long are the bolts?
How long would it take to lift?
I will take some pictures when I have the time.
I currently I have my car up on axle stands. The chassis is not in that bad a condition in all honesty the wish bones could do with tidying up and there's a little odd patch of rust on the rails thats all. However I'm thinking of doing a body lift 2" to properly paint the rails taking the wish bones off re bushing.
Beats siting in watching eastenders, corrie, emerdale and the other crap the missus watches
Due to size of my garage I will only be able to do one side at a time therefore I'm thinking of lifting one side at a time. As anyone tried this? Of course I will remove all the bolts. With me taking the wishbones off I'm thinking I can get away from disconnecting the steering.
So some more questions
Do you have to fully remove the petrol tank?
Is it possible to get at the front bolts without removing the rad. How long are the bolts?
How long would it take to lift?
I will take some pictures when I have the time.
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