Pro Street Style MGB GT
Discussion
Another little job has been to sort out the steering wheel. I had bought a small "Mountney" wheel at the NEC last year "On Spec". I found an old boss in my spares stash but the O.D. of the boss was the I.D. of the wheel........ - the earlier picture of the wheel in place was just a precarious balance job!
So I have now cut out three small aluminium tabs out of thick sheet and these bolt onto the hub and the wheel bolts onto the tabs. The spline was slightly smaller than the column spline but with a bit of careful filing and broaching in situ it is all good.
So I have now cut out three small aluminium tabs out of thick sheet and these bolt onto the hub and the wheel bolts onto the tabs. The spline was slightly smaller than the column spline but with a bit of careful filing and broaching in situ it is all good.
In the meantime, I was able to use the welder today - so I finally repaired my lacy gusset!
Then I got stuck into bendy tubes - or rather stuck bendy tubes to exhaust flanges.
Then I had to put the temporary steering column back into its correct location to put the rear three pipes on.
Then I got stuck into bendy tubes - or rather stuck bendy tubes to exhaust flanges.
Then I had to put the temporary steering column back into its correct location to put the rear three pipes on.
More work on the dashboard - cutting out the clear plastic cover for the speedo and revcounter
Then filing and fitting.........
I also made a frame to attach to the back of the dashboard around the steering column
It is then welded to the chassis rails
The bodyshell can be lifted at the front with the dashboard/steering still in place.
Then filing and fitting.........
I also made a frame to attach to the back of the dashboard around the steering column
It is then welded to the chassis rails
The bodyshell can be lifted at the front with the dashboard/steering still in place.
I have tried the other servo in place but the pedal is a bit close to the exhaust and I think it might be "over servoed" with the lighter weight and much smaller front discs so I might try using the MG twin master set up without the clutch pedal.
I wonder if this is being read by many people as only "Benters" has commented for the past few months???
I wonder if this is being read by many people as only "Benters" has commented for the past few months???
Thanks tuffer and e600
Nice to know that it is not empty out there!
Anyway I have been playing with the MG pedals and reversed them to put the unit on the floor( - which I did on the original "Super B").
I have also been cutting exhaust bends.......
Nice to know that it is not empty out there!
Anyway I have been playing with the MG pedals and reversed them to put the unit on the floor( - which I did on the original "Super B").
I have also been cutting exhaust bends.......
Edited by Flying Phil on Tuesday 17th November 16:39
By way of a change today I revisited the inlet system. All the manifolds have been smoothed inside and tidied on the outside. Then they were bolted to the heads and the carbs loosely bolted in place. One carb will need shaped, thick, gaskets, as the welding had tilted the stubs.
Then I put the radiator in place and the wings back on.
The next problem area will be the water pump outlet to radiator - the outlet points down and slightly back - and the steering rack is nicely in the way. It would be good if the outlet on three bolts could be rotated 120 degrees - but the three bolts are isosceles not equilateral!!!
Anyway looking at the grille - and the radiator showing underneath it, I thought about the front end treatment - the original "Super B" had a sheet aluminium air dam with small lip. (It now has a fibreglass Sebring style). I thought a more modern approach might be a larger deeper grille - then I remembered I had bought my newer MG grille..........
It is just playing around but I think it may work?
Then I put the radiator in place and the wings back on.
The next problem area will be the water pump outlet to radiator - the outlet points down and slightly back - and the steering rack is nicely in the way. It would be good if the outlet on three bolts could be rotated 120 degrees - but the three bolts are isosceles not equilateral!!!
Anyway looking at the grille - and the radiator showing underneath it, I thought about the front end treatment - the original "Super B" had a sheet aluminium air dam with small lip. (It now has a fibreglass Sebring style). I thought a more modern approach might be a larger deeper grille - then I remembered I had bought my newer MG grille..........
It is just playing around but I think it may work?
Progress - The two front grilles have been swopped and the older - now lower grille, has been split to remove the centre vertical bar with its integral MG shield.
The water outlet casting has been cut and will be re welded with the outlet at a much better angle for the radiator.
I also put a battery to the starter and it only "Clicked" but I'm not sure if there is some sort of inhibitor tied into the automatic transmission??
The water outlet casting has been cut and will be re welded with the outlet at a much better angle for the radiator.
I also put a battery to the starter and it only "Clicked" but I'm not sure if there is some sort of inhibitor tied into the automatic transmission??
I didn't have a chance to have another look at the starter electrics but I have found the gear selector and operating cable. Needless to say that the selector is back at the Diff unless I put a loop in the thick Bowden cable so I will try and get a shorter system sorted - direct from the shifter to the change lever?
Here is a picture of the more fixed front double grille.
Here is a picture of the more fixed front double grille.
Thanks Benters - here is more.....
I spent a bit of time dismantling the gear selector. The gearbox end was just a collet which locked onto a rod end of the cable. The other end was just a simple bearing held in place with a split pin. Then I put the selector cover back on the gear lever - and realised that it fitted the other way round (I had only put it loosely back together after stripping it from the XJ-S). Then it all made sense! The Bowden cable loops back 180 degrees to put the selector back above the gearbox......(Pic to follow).
I spent a bit of time dismantling the gear selector. The gearbox end was just a collet which locked onto a rod end of the cable. The other end was just a simple bearing held in place with a split pin. Then I put the selector cover back on the gear lever - and realised that it fitted the other way round (I had only put it loosely back together after stripping it from the XJ-S). Then it all made sense! The Bowden cable loops back 180 degrees to put the selector back above the gearbox......(Pic to follow).
benters said:
This is great engineering to me. . . .. grinder, welder and a can do attitude, top marks
Don't forget the big hammer!Here is the picture of the gearlever in approx position
- a frame/gearbox cover will provide the fixing points.
And here is where the fuel tank will sit.
When I revise the rear framework, it will be lower.
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