My project MGB GT.
Discussion
mgtony said:
Kentish said:
Thanks guys for the comments and opinions.
I was thinking wires too but I'm quite keen on the centre lock minilites but i agree they do not look right with the eared spinners - I would opt for the centre hex nut type spinners if I do decided to go for them. They do look good and fill the arches well on the knock on axled cars. The are nice & easy to wash too
If I do go for wires again, I will go for the standard 14" painted ones and respray them with a chrome finish paint since you can get some really durable paints in that finish now and they are less likely to corrode and look rough like some chrome ones can after a couple of years.
I'm still not sure, I had sort of decided on the minilites earlier but now I'm not certain
Why go for painted ones and then try to spray them chrome instead of buying chrome wire wheels? just wondered.I was thinking wires too but I'm quite keen on the centre lock minilites but i agree they do not look right with the eared spinners - I would opt for the centre hex nut type spinners if I do decided to go for them. They do look good and fill the arches well on the knock on axled cars. The are nice & easy to wash too
If I do go for wires again, I will go for the standard 14" painted ones and respray them with a chrome finish paint since you can get some really durable paints in that finish now and they are less likely to corrode and look rough like some chrome ones can after a couple of years.
I'm still not sure, I had sort of decided on the minilites earlier but now I'm not certain
The other reason is that modern chroming of wire wheels is not as durable as it once was and they do harbour corrosive brake dust that is difficult to remove and wheel cleaner is usually acid based whoch is bad for the chrome plating.
Therefore, modern paint can be more durable than chrome plating. It's also easier to paint them again in the future. They are also considerably cheaper to buy so it does not matter so much if you need to paint them in the future
Last weekend I managed to do a little work on the B
New callipers have been fitted, new Goodrich braided hoses, new discs and new hubs.
I have also just received a new set of MWS wire wheels (as per the original in 14" painted and not chrome - too bling)
New tyres and tubes are being fitted at the weekend and the wheels fitted to new hubs.
I noticed though that I may have a small fluid leak somewhere but not from the new parts just fitted because the brakes had some air in them and the mat under the car had a little fluid on but it could have been a small amount of coolant as I also have a small coolant leak somewhere.
Jobs left to do are, sort the small coolant leak and a small oil leak, fit new rear shoes, new rear cylinders, handbrake cable and electronic ignition.
Only the rear brakes failed the MOT so it should pass again
The old hubs were pretty worn and probably the cause of the clonking, we'll soon see when the new rear hubs and new wheels are fitted!
The wheels themselves were not too bad as they had been replaced a while ago (bill in folder).
I just thought I'd get a new set as they are not expensive at £88 each and are good quality.
New hubs were around £220 for all 4, new hub bearings were £9 each, callipers were around £80 the pair, Goodrich hoses around £40, tyres and tubes around £160 the set, front pads about £9, rear shoes £20, rear cylinders £20 a pair, rear brake adjusters £30 a pair, handbrake cables £20.
New callipers have been fitted, new Goodrich braided hoses, new discs and new hubs.
I have also just received a new set of MWS wire wheels (as per the original in 14" painted and not chrome - too bling
)New tyres and tubes are being fitted at the weekend and the wheels fitted to new hubs.
I noticed though that I may have a small fluid leak somewhere but not from the new parts just fitted because the brakes had some air in them and the mat under the car had a little fluid on but it could have been a small amount of coolant as I also have a small coolant leak somewhere.
Jobs left to do are, sort the small coolant leak and a small oil leak, fit new rear shoes, new rear cylinders, handbrake cable and electronic ignition.
Only the rear brakes failed the MOT so it should pass again
The old hubs were pretty worn and probably the cause of the clonking, we'll soon see when the new rear hubs and new wheels are fitted!
The wheels themselves were not too bad as they had been replaced a while ago (bill in folder).
I just thought I'd get a new set as they are not expensive at £88 each and are good quality.
New hubs were around £220 for all 4, new hub bearings were £9 each, callipers were around £80 the pair, Goodrich hoses around £40, tyres and tubes around £160 the set, front pads about £9, rear shoes £20, rear cylinders £20 a pair, rear brake adjusters £30 a pair, handbrake cables £20.
New wire wheels are now fitted with new tyres and ready to go on.
The garage charged just £20 to fit the tyres and inner tubes
Next jobs are the other front hub and disc and hub bearing to go on; the rear brake adjusters and handbrake cables and the rear cylinders and shoes and rear splined hubs to fit.
Then fit new wheels
I should hopefully have an MOT pass after that and a car free of clonking as I take up drive
A few more mecanical jobs remain; coolant leak and an oil leak (both small); perhaps an oil pump as I noticed the oil pressure does not come up straight away on starting and it fluctuates and I know it's not the gauge!
Is this normal on a MGB?
Sort the stainless exhaust which does not adequately clear the chassis and drums on the underside of the car.
The twin SU carbs also need some new throttle return springs and the mixture adjusting as it is running a little rich.
I should have quite a sound car after these few jobs.
Next steps will be to continue refurbishing the interior and to tackle those few bubbles in the paint; a temporary fix initially and then a full repaint at a later time
I also need the correct early chrome front grille (anyone got one or want to swap for the more popular chrome and black honeycombe grille)?
And have the bumpers re-chromed.
Clean or replace headlining and refinish dash.
Done!
The garage charged just £20 to fit the tyres and inner tubes
Next jobs are the other front hub and disc and hub bearing to go on; the rear brake adjusters and handbrake cables and the rear cylinders and shoes and rear splined hubs to fit.
Then fit new wheels
I should hopefully have an MOT pass after that and a car free of clonking as I take up drive
A few more mecanical jobs remain; coolant leak and an oil leak (both small); perhaps an oil pump as I noticed the oil pressure does not come up straight away on starting and it fluctuates and I know it's not the gauge!
Is this normal on a MGB?
Sort the stainless exhaust which does not adequately clear the chassis and drums on the underside of the car.
The twin SU carbs also need some new throttle return springs and the mixture adjusting as it is running a little rich.
I should have quite a sound car after these few jobs.
Next steps will be to continue refurbishing the interior and to tackle those few bubbles in the paint; a temporary fix initially and then a full repaint at a later time
I also need the correct early chrome front grille (anyone got one or want to swap for the more popular chrome and black honeycombe grille)?
And have the bumpers re-chromed.
Clean or replace headlining and refinish dash.
Done!
Kentish said:
mustard tab said:
pics please when the wheels are on
Will do but they will look the same as those on page 1 I chose to go for the same 14" wires but they are new from MWS and a set of asymmetrical tyres (did not want too modern a tread pattern).
i have to say that your choice may be taking things a little too far for my liking. dont get me wrong its your car and your hard earned so the choice is yours as they say, but as your tyres are your only contact point with the tarmac and will influence your braking acceleration and steering, thats a high price to pay for originality.
would welcome your thoughts.
mustard tab said:
Kentish said:
mustard tab said:
pics please when the wheels are on
Will do but they will look the same as those on page 1 I chose to go for the same 14" wires but they are new from MWS and a set of asymmetrical tyres (did not want too modern a tread pattern).
i have to say that your choice may be taking things a little too far for my liking. dont get me wrong its your car and your hard earned so the choice is yours as they say, but as your tyres are your only contact point with the tarmac and will influence your braking acceleration and steering, thats a high price to pay for originality.
would welcome your thoughts.
I think you took that the wrong way, they are a modern tyre but not a modern looking tread pattern.
For example, these would look much better
Than these
citron yellow said:
Having just bought a '74 BGT I am eagerly awaiting the next update!
It won't be too much longer I hope!I have the new hub bearings, new hubs, new rear shoes, cylinders, rear brake adjusters, handbrake cables and new wheels and tyres all ready and waiting to be fitted - I just need some time to do it!
I should pass the MOT after this.
After that I'm going to tackle some bodywork; the front bumper mounting on the chassis needs a small plate welding to it. I'm going to replace both front wings and the front valance.
The sills have a few bubbles, I'm going to grind these back and prepare them ready for paint.
There are a couple of other spots where I have some bubbling too, nothing too serious but all of them will be treated and prepared for spraying.
During the summer, I'm going to take a bodyshop course so I'm hoping to perhaps hire a spray booth after and do the paintwork myself.
A quick update.
I spent half a day the other weekend on the MGB.
I got the new front hubs, discs and bearings all replaced now; so the front is all complete.
I now need to do the rear shoes, cylinders and flexi hose, brake adjusters and the handbrake cables.
I have also spotted some welding that needs doing on the outter outrigger part of the chassis under the drivers door. It's not too bad but will probably need doing before the MOT.
I spent half a day the other weekend on the MGB.
I got the new front hubs, discs and bearings all replaced now; so the front is all complete.
I now need to do the rear shoes, cylinders and flexi hose, brake adjusters and the handbrake cables.
I have also spotted some welding that needs doing on the outter outrigger part of the chassis under the drivers door. It's not too bad but will probably need doing before the MOT.
Just a brief update:-
I'll be fitting the rear shoes, cylinders and flexi hose, brake adjusters and the handbrake cables and new rear hubs this weekend.
The clonking noise I had (mentioned earlier in this thread) has now gone since the new wheels have been fitted, so it was worn splines in the wheels.
I'm really looking forward to getting her back on the road, so once the brakes are done she'll be off for a re-MOT and I'll ask them to sort the floor whilst there and also a bumper mount needs welding. Other than that she's all good.
I can then get cracking on the few bits around the bodywork - I may replace the passenger side front wing as the bottom of it has been repaired in the past and is looking quite bubbly again. I may replace both front wings and the valance eventually.
I'll be fitting the rear shoes, cylinders and flexi hose, brake adjusters and the handbrake cables and new rear hubs this weekend.
The clonking noise I had (mentioned earlier in this thread) has now gone since the new wheels have been fitted, so it was worn splines in the wheels.
I'm really looking forward to getting her back on the road, so once the brakes are done she'll be off for a re-MOT and I'll ask them to sort the floor whilst there and also a bumper mount needs welding. Other than that she's all good.
I can then get cracking on the few bits around the bodywork - I may replace the passenger side front wing as the bottom of it has been repaired in the past and is looking quite bubbly again. I may replace both front wings and the valance eventually.
Update.
I stripped the rear brakes down and found that the drivers side was full of old brake fluid and had obviously been like this for a long time.
The passenger side had been doing all the work and is probably why there was no handbrake effort that side.
I replaced the adjusters (top) and the hydraulic cylinders (bottom) and the shoes and gave everything a good clean up with brake cleaner, including inside the drums (found to be in good condition).
New wheels & tyres:-
Old fluid soaked shoes and rusty cylinders and adjusters:-
New adjuster fitted at top and cylinder at the bottom (used copper ease t lube the adjuster):-
Rear of cylinder (note that the clip is an ass to get back on)!:-
New shoes, springs and retainers fitted:-
Next was the handbrake cable; I disconnected all of it but discovered that you cannot removed it without unbolting the square metal block form the tunnel wall and to do that you really need to remove the carpet and drivers seat. I therefore inspected the existing cable and it worked OK so I lubed it as best I could and refitted it:-
Unfortunately, I was unable to get the old hubs off as my puller is not deep enough to reach the bolts so I'll either have to get a deeper puller or ask the garage to swap them over when it goes for MOT.
However, despite only failing on brakes in December I discovered some holes in the floorpan sill edges and in the floorpan itself. I brushed down and treated a lot of the surface rust and I also undersealed all the inside of the rear wheel arch wells and I tidied up the sill edges and repainted them and they look quite good but I will do them properly sometime soon, this was just to inhibit further corrosion.
Next job is to buy some replacement floorpans and outer edge repair sections, grind out the old ones and weld in the new metalwork, rustproof and seal them. Then MOT
I stripped the rear brakes down and found that the drivers side was full of old brake fluid and had obviously been like this for a long time.
The passenger side had been doing all the work and is probably why there was no handbrake effort that side.
I replaced the adjusters (top) and the hydraulic cylinders (bottom) and the shoes and gave everything a good clean up with brake cleaner, including inside the drums (found to be in good condition).
New wheels & tyres:-
Old fluid soaked shoes and rusty cylinders and adjusters:-
New adjuster fitted at top and cylinder at the bottom (used copper ease t lube the adjuster):-
Rear of cylinder (note that the clip is an ass to get back on)!:-
New shoes, springs and retainers fitted:-
Next was the handbrake cable; I disconnected all of it but discovered that you cannot removed it without unbolting the square metal block form the tunnel wall and to do that you really need to remove the carpet and drivers seat. I therefore inspected the existing cable and it worked OK so I lubed it as best I could and refitted it:-
Unfortunately, I was unable to get the old hubs off as my puller is not deep enough to reach the bolts so I'll either have to get a deeper puller or ask the garage to swap them over when it goes for MOT.
However, despite only failing on brakes in December I discovered some holes in the floorpan sill edges and in the floorpan itself. I brushed down and treated a lot of the surface rust and I also undersealed all the inside of the rear wheel arch wells and I tidied up the sill edges and repainted them and they look quite good but I will do them properly sometime soon, this was just to inhibit further corrosion.
Next job is to buy some replacement floorpans and outer edge repair sections, grind out the old ones and weld in the new metalwork, rustproof and seal them. Then MOT
During the weekend, the rear brakes were finished (adjustments).
The front hubs were fitted the other week but the disc was binding on the pads one side so off came the wheel, hub, bearings, disc and caliper that side.
I discovered that the spacer the hub mounts to on the stub axle would not fully press home to the base of the stub axle and was throwing out the disc by a few mm's and enough to make the brakes drag.
I took the spacer off and machined out the centre so that it would fit the stub axle and all was fine on reassembly.
I bled the brakes again once it was all back together and noticed some fluid dripping from the middle of brand new front caliper
I took it off again, removed the pads & with the brake hose connected got my trusty assistant to push the pistons out by applying the brakes. The rubber seal arounf the piston had not been assembled properly in the caliper!
I took the caliper apart for better access and very carefully ran the edge of a sharp flat bladed screwdriver around the rubber seal to tease it out and seat properly. I put it all back together, bled the brakes again and it appeared to be all OK
The little MGB went for MOT this morning and passed with just one advisory of slight play in a steering ball joint.
Off to the post office I went to collect my free tax disc and now I'm back on the road in the little B
It has been 7 months since the B has been driven any distance so after a fill up with petrol I went for a long run and I'm pleased to report that my efforts on the brakes, hubs & new wheels has resulted in a car that stops quite well and nice and evenly and there are no longer any nasty clonking noises on take up of drive.
The front hubs were fitted the other week but the disc was binding on the pads one side so off came the wheel, hub, bearings, disc and caliper that side.
I discovered that the spacer the hub mounts to on the stub axle would not fully press home to the base of the stub axle and was throwing out the disc by a few mm's and enough to make the brakes drag.
I took the spacer off and machined out the centre so that it would fit the stub axle and all was fine on reassembly.
I bled the brakes again once it was all back together and noticed some fluid dripping from the middle of brand new front caliper
I took it off again, removed the pads & with the brake hose connected got my trusty assistant to push the pistons out by applying the brakes. The rubber seal arounf the piston had not been assembled properly in the caliper!
I took the caliper apart for better access and very carefully ran the edge of a sharp flat bladed screwdriver around the rubber seal to tease it out and seat properly. I put it all back together, bled the brakes again and it appeared to be all OK
The little MGB went for MOT this morning and passed with just one advisory of slight play in a steering ball joint.
Off to the post office I went to collect my free tax disc and now I'm back on the road in the little B
It has been 7 months since the B has been driven any distance so after a fill up with petrol I went for a long run and I'm pleased to report that my efforts on the brakes, hubs & new wheels has resulted in a car that stops quite well and nice and evenly and there are no longer any nasty clonking noises on take up of drive.
I have been using the B daily this week and it is great.
The brakes are very good now I have done a few miles, not as good as a modern car but very good compared to how they were.
I have been able to plod along with traffic at 70mph + with no trouble but it can be a bit tiring as you have to watch out for people not making allowances for a car with a longer stopping distance .....like the woman who undertook me and cut me up tonight and then braked immediately in front of me.
The brakes are very good now I have done a few miles, not as good as a modern car but very good compared to how they were.
I have been able to plod along with traffic at 70mph + with no trouble but it can be a bit tiring as you have to watch out for people not making allowances for a car with a longer stopping distance .....like the woman who undertook me and cut me up tonight and then braked immediately in front of me.
Then you will have to make the allowances for others. The MGB is quite small and literally overlooked by other road users today ... I followed a Blue Triumph TR2 along the M5-M50 today ~ it looked like iris blue ~ the same colour as my second MGB I had back in the mid 1960s. It looked and was absolutely tiny compared to the other motorway traffic despite keeping up and going with the flow.
1960s ...back then, I thought my MGB was quite large ~ by today's fat gut, big-arsed, bulky, far too high average vehicle dimensions it is positively miniscule ... as opposed to a cool~mini... Oh please yourselves...
Later, I saw a TR4 in the same blue colour ~ maybe there's a TR Triumph enthusiasts' get together in the Upton-on-Severn, Worcs Area sometine soon.
Look how small that car looks in the modern Motorway traffic... Scarey or what :~
..
1960s ...back then, I thought my MGB was quite large ~ by today's fat gut, big-arsed, bulky, far too high average vehicle dimensions it is positively miniscule ... as opposed to a cool~mini... Oh please yourselves...
Later, I saw a TR4 in the same blue colour ~ maybe there's a TR Triumph enthusiasts' get together in the Upton-on-Severn, Worcs Area sometine soon.
Look how small that car looks in the modern Motorway traffic... Scarey or what :~
..
Sometimes, that is easier said than done but yes, I do make allowances for as many as possible.
The most amusing one was before I did all the brakes hubs wheels & tyres and the old B had a habit of locking up with clouds of smoke under heavy braking.
There was a Saab pulled out of a side road straight across in front of me, I braked hard but he was a cocky sod and was smirking as he pulled slowly and deliberately from the side road but that smirk soon changed to a look of panic as I headed for his drivers door with my front wheels locked, tyres squealing and blue smoke pouring from the tyres
That trait is no longer evident with all the work I've done recently. The previous Pirelli tyres, despite having loads of tread were absolutely awful and they went to the tip!
The most amusing one was before I did all the brakes hubs wheels & tyres and the old B had a habit of locking up with clouds of smoke under heavy braking.
There was a Saab pulled out of a side road straight across in front of me, I braked hard but he was a cocky sod and was smirking as he pulled slowly and deliberately from the side road but that smirk soon changed to a look of panic as I headed for his drivers door with my front wheels locked, tyres squealing and blue smoke pouring from the tyres
That trait is no longer evident with all the work I've done recently. The previous Pirelli tyres, despite having loads of tread were absolutely awful and they went to the tip!
MGJohn said:
Look how small that car looks in the modern Motorway traffic... Scarey or what
What - I mean no it's not scary (to me at least), a motorbike is a lot smallerI used my previous Spridget for months going up, and back, the M1 and M6, on the inside lane doing 50 mph because of a gearbox problem, it was fine
Going back I used to have to slow down despite the next vehicle to me on the inside lane being a quater of a mile away otherwise I'd undertake the nose-to-tailers in the other two lanes
I've also used my present Midget, previous MGBs, MX-5, smart, Suzuki Cappucinno, Fiat Cinquecinto, wife's Copen and my Westies for many, many motorway miles without any worries
SB - Nigel said:
MGJohn said:
Look how small that car looks in the modern Motorway traffic... Scarey or what
What - I mean no it's not scary (to me at least), a motorbike is a lot smallerI used my previous Spridget for months going up, and back, the M1 and M6, on the inside lane doing 50 mph because of a gearbox problem, it was fine
Going back I used to have to slow down despite the next vehicle to me on the inside lane being a quater of a mile away otherwise I'd undertake the nose-to-tailers in the other two lanes
I've also used my present Midget, previous MGBs, MX-5, smart, Suzuki Cappucinno, Fiat Cinquecinto, wife's Copen and my Westies for many, many motorway miles without any worries
It's understandable. Witness the large truck driving along at speed with a small car tucked under the front of the cab ... apparently driver did not know it was there until alerted... I believe there's some footage on YouTube.
Quite a while since I checked, but, according to the Highway Code, if traffic in the lanes to your right have to slow down as very frequently happens on today's over loaded Motorways and Roads, you in a nearside lane can 'undertake' even if you too are slowing down or simply maintaining speed. Sometimes under those conditions vehicles in nearside ( mistakenly called the 'slow' lane ) can make faster progress than that traffic in the mistakenly called 'fast' lanes... happens a lot on that form of madness known as the M25 ... every time I use it which I try to avoid where possible for that reason... it's simply never an enjoyable experience any more.
.
Gassing Station | MG | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff