My project MGB GT.

[Kentish]

Thanks Nigel, I'll check that out too.

Sounds like I could take the bulb off and just let it drain at will?

I do have a mesh at the intake, so hopefully not too much rubbish has drained through.

With regard to wheels.

Was the wear aspect of splines hubs and wheels why you suggested replacing them with alloys, are the knock on type known to suffer premature spline wear?

If I change from wires to bolt on type I'll need to change hubs, is this easy to do or does it mean a new rear axle?

I'm not sure which mine will have (banjo or tube)?

Your advice is much appreciated!

Edited by Kentish on Friday 24th April 12:28

[Kentish]

ahockley said:

It think any kind of splined hub/wheel arangement will suffer wear - the rate of it can be minimised by applying copper grease at each change and ensuring the correct tightness on the spinners apparently. I was told that replacing both hub and wheels at the same time was necessary, as if this is not done one will rapidly wear the other.

I'm not sure about axle types I'm afraid.

Thanks Alastair.

I think I'll have to give one or two of the MGB parts specailists a call to see what they suggest for prices for both options.

Minilites are likely to require a fair bit less maintenance than wire wheels over the years but may involve a lot more work to change over to and the wires look great IMHO. Minilites look very nice too though.

[Kentish]

Thanks for all the info guys.

I've decided to source a pair of 1965>1969 front seats to rebuild as I appear to have a later pair of front seats with headrests fitted.

I've seen the MGBHive covers in the flesh and they are very good quality so will probably go for a set of those.

[Kentish]

I've fitted my Mountney steering wheel, a pair of new chrome window winders and a nice new gear ball knob (original type).

I've not done a lot more but will over the summer.

[Kentish]

Job Parts Req'd

Interior Seats (pre-1970)
Interior Seat covers
Interior Seat foam
Interior Seat webbing
Interior Seat belts
Interior Carpet set (Black)
Interior Trim panel set (Black)
Interior Radio console to match centre armrest console
Interior Dash capping
Interior Dash wood trim kit (Burr Walnut)
Interior Overdrive switch
Interior Headlining

Exterior Respray
Exterior Chrome bumper (Front)
Exterior Chrome bumper (Rear)
Exterior Early Chrome Grill
Exterior Headlights
Exterior Headlight chrome trim
Exterior Front side & indicators
Exterior Rear light clusters
Exterior Reverse lights
Exterior Number plate lights
Exterior Number plates (Black/Silver, front & rear)

Engine & Mechanics Brake discs & pads (Front)
Engine & Mechanics Brake drums & shoes (Rear)
Engine & Mechanics Rear wheel cylinders
Engine & Mechanics Rear differential
Engine & Mechanics Hubs (all 4)
Engine & Mechanics Wire wheels
Engine & Mechanics Tyres
Engine & Mechanics Electronic ignition/distributor
Engine & Mechanics K&N airfliters

[Kentish]

A lot of it can be done over time but I reckon I'm going to spend around £5-6k!

A lot of the parts are insignificant in value so I'm going to try and buy parts each month and then do a few jobs, save more, buy a few parts, do some more jobs and so on until all the mechanical bits are sorted and then I'll start accumulating new trim each month and also save for new paintwork and then fit the trim after the B comes back with fresh paint.

I need to time things appropriately though, so that the glass comes out for painting and after the paint a new headlining is fitted.

Can you buy headlining kits?
I've not seen any, so may be a job for an upholsterer.

[Kentish]

SB - Nigel said:

Kentish you must talk to more people who actually use their classic MGs and less to those fair weather users and show queens

Spend more of your money now, on petrol - drive your car, save a bit of money for FULL regular servicing (and repairs) and replace and "improve" later next year

A BGT - you should be driving it from now until, well, you sell the car

I have been using the B

Unfortunately, I ended up stranded 3 times because it keeps cutting out.

I have a new fuel pump (electronic type) on it's way from MGOC spares (plus a few more bits)

I'm going to sort that first then see if the starting is improved, I'm pretty sure the starting prob is down to the pump losing its prime and the cutting out is consistent with it failing too.

I'm going to hold off doing the electronic ignition for a while; as you say, it's best to not spend too much and use it. To that end. I'll be fitting cheap and cheerful points, condensor and new plugs and giving the B a good service.

Brakes will be the next thing to sort as they are quite poor and I'm locking up on the passenger side front and all the braking is at the front and none at the rear. So, I'm only going to replace the discs, pads, shoes and cylinders as cheaply as poss using the standard parts and not uprate them. I'll replace the brake fluid too and see if braking is improved, if not a new master cylinder may be necessary.

There's also a rather horrible clunking when braking and lifting off either the brake pedal or the accelerator and a further clunk when taking up drive again, I think some of the noise is the diff (which I'm told is common to most MGB's & nothing to worry about) but as it is quite bad I suspect that i have the problem that Alistair mentioned (worn wires and hubs) and indeed, I have checked the rears for wear and they do have about 1cm of freeplay with the handbrake on!

These are all safety things that I need to address before driving around in the car too much but rest assured the B will be in regular use once she starts and stops properly and the nasty noises have been resolved.

I'm aiming to do everything properly and not rush at it and also spend as little as possible by not going mad on replacing things for the sake of it but i will spend good money on the bodywork & paint in about 18 months time if I can.

I'm also enjoying the weather with the hood down in the Roadster at the moment

[Kentish]

Thanks Nigel;

Yes, I agree with all that.

I'm planning on doing the leads, cap and prob a coil in addition to the points, condensor & plugs - as you say they are quite cheap parts and can resolve a lot of issues.
I can also get a good discount at Lucas

The handbrake is working fine - that is how I discovered that the rear brakes aren't doing anything
I think a good lube up of the handbrake parts will be fine and then concentrate on the hydraulics, new rear shoes and a pair of rear cylinders and new stainless hoses all round, perhaps replace the rather old drums too, definitely replace the front discs and pads. But I'll use all standard parts as they are cheaper and should improve things.

I think I'll have to bite the bullet and buy a set of new hubs and some new wires before too long

[Kentish]

Hi Guys;

I do agree with you Nigel, the minilites do look great on the B, I am also quite a fan (like yourself) of the steelies with the hub caps. I would have to change my rear axle and half shafts though if I went for those as they are bolt on only IIRC. I'm probably going to go for a new set of painted wires and a new set of hubs - I do like the wire wheels and central spinners

Alastair, I know what you mean about having to pay someone else to do what you can do yourself, if you only had the time. Getting someone else to do it is so expensive!

My box of bits arrived yesterday from MGOC

A new fuel pump is going on this weekend and all the new ignition parts.

[Kentish]

Bugger!

I decided to go to my local Lucas for all the ognition parts but Lucas folded last year!

If I had known I'd have ordered them with the other bits from MGOC and saved the carriage

I checked with the local Euro Car Parts who list the MGB but they don't appear to agree that a 1969 MGB has a set of ignition points

[Kentish]

I had fun and games today with the new fuel pump.

Read about it here:-

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Moral of the story ......don't buy a cheap (£50) MGOC Spares Ecco pump!

[Kentish]

Robert060379 said:

Have you tried the MGB hive? 01945 700500 That's where I get all my bits (local-ish so it saves postage for me at least).

Thanks Robert, yes I have tried them and to be fair most suppliers sell the same or very similar parts at similar prices.

I have returned the pump for refund and MGOC Spares were very good and even refunded my carriage.

They are sending me a replacement original spec SU pump and I decided that I'd renew all the fuel lines at the rear whilst I was doing the pump, so that's all on the way to me and will be fitted next weekend.

I do have some good news!

I inspected my wheel splines and they are not worn at all, the hubs are not bad either. The freeplay I could feel was actually what I had originally thought and is in fact the rear axle.

The question is will a recon diff at £210 cure this, or should I go for a whole recon rear axle (tube axle) at around £300 and maybe a new set of splined hubs?

I think for an extra £80 or so, a recon rear axle is the way to go.

What do you think?

[Kentish]

Kentish said:

I had fun and games today with the new fuel pump.

Read about it here:-

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Moral of the story ......don't buy a cheap (£50) MGOC Spares Ecco pump!

So, today it was both hands to the pump again

I received my replacement pump from MGOC Spares (a decent original SU pump this time) and I took the opportunity to order some new new fuel lines, one from the tank to the pump and one from the pump to the fuel line that leads to the engine bay.

I've only placed 3 orders with MGOC Spares so far and they've got it wrong 3 times!

They sent everything but didn't put the new fuel pipe from the tank to the pump in the parcel to me, despite me actually giving them all the part numbers. Can't anyone get anything right??

Anyway, I got the pump in and all new fittings and washers and the new piece of flexi pipe went in, the one that connects to the hard fuel line to the engine bay.

I fitted the vent pipes to the pump as these had been left off the old pump, cleaned the electrical terminals and did everything up nice and firmly, mounting the pump nice and securely in the bracket too.

All looked good; I backfilled the fuel line to prime the pump (in case it needed it) and that all looked good so I reconnected the fuel supply to the carbs and jumped in to fire her up.

A few turns on the starter and she sprang into life, ran for 3 mins and then spluttered to a halt.

I took off the hose at the carbs again & repeated the backfilling process and same again, ran for a few mins and stopped.

It was clearly using fuel in the fuel line and float chambers and then running dry.

I had already blown out all of the fuel lines with compressed air so I knew there were no blockages.

I began to suspect that there must be an issue with the fuel supply to the pump, could there be a pick up pipe inside the tank that has come off??

I decide to test for this by undoing the solid pipe from the tank (the one MGOC Spares neglected to send) and then fit some rubber fuel line over the end with a funnel connected at the other end - I then filled the funnel with fuel and looked for leaks before starting the car - well I didn't need to look far!

Fuel pee'd out everywhere from that pipe; it must have a crack in it and hence is sucking in air and no fuel.

Problem solved, unfortunately the sinlgle most important part is the one I don't have because they forgot it and I now have to wait until next week to hear that sweet little engine running again.

Oh well, at least I now know what the problem is - shame it has taken 3 weeks to sort it out though!

Thanks for all the help here and my thanks to Watford Classics who are sending me out a replacement for the broken fuel pipe. This is the second time I've ordered from them and they have been very good.

[Kentish]

Robert060379 said:

I DIY my fuel lines out of Stainless pipe from a local plumbing centre. Fit and forget.

That's a good idea although I'd need to get a flaring tool and olives to fit this particular pipe and I'd have to solder on a banjo the other end - can you solder stainless steel though?

[Kentish]

I fitted a new fuel line, new pump and all new connections yesterday.

The pipe was about £7 and I just had to shape it, there was quite a tight bend required as it went into the pump and on bending it the pipe collapsed a bit as they do without the use of pipe bender.

Not a big issue as I put the collapsed pipe in the bench vice and squeezed the sides back out to open it up but still retain the bend.

I got the car back on the ground and had to turn it over for ages but it eventually ran fine.

I then went out for a 50 mile run

All was OK for a while but it was a pain to get started again and on the run it cut out a few times.
I then realised that it's a worn ignition switch and does not maintain a circuit consistently on the part of the switch where you turn the car over and where the key springs back in the running position.
Now I know of the fault I can jiggle the switch back and the car runs fine.

I've decided to order a new switch and barrel as they are inexpensive and to rule out any ignition system issues I'm fitting a magnetic ignition pick up and all new ignition parts (plugs, silicone leads, coil, cap, rotor).

Now that is sorted I need to concentrate on the brakes!

On the run I noticed that if I braked firmly the front wheels locked up and the car nose dives, indicating that all the braking is at the front.

Is this quite normal for a B?

[Kentish]

Robert060379 said:

Perfectly normal and a very good sign that there's nothing wrong with the Master. I run drilled and grooved standard disks (MGB Hive £50ish) with four pot (Westfield) Hi Spec calipers and red stuff pads. The original calipers can handle most situations on the road but the four pots use less fluid and give the car more rear bias (ideal for going sideways).

Lovely, thanks for the tip!

The bite is quite poor on the brakes, only really working well with a very heavy push, so new discs and pads are on the cards. I know they are non-servo'd but they should be better than they are.

I think I will also replace the rear wheel cylinders as one had a small leak but has stopped with use. I may also replace the solid brake pipes front to rear as they look ancient and are probably steel!

I'll check on the price of the master cylinder and the reservoir assembly as I may replace those too and be confident that I have the brakes in tip top condition.

I have the magnetic igntion coming and I have all the replacement ignition parts (cap, rotor, leads and sports coil).

Once this is all done I will look into whether the carbs are in good order, they seem OK - the return springs may require replacement but that is all.

I should then run and stop OK

The back axle and hubs will be the next job - still not sure which way to go on those but it's going to be a rolling resto and plenty of time to decide!

[Kentish]

BTW.

I ordered all the last lot of items from MGB Hive and they were excellent, arrived all correct the next day (just the one item on back order).

I'll be ordering from them again!

[Kentish]

Thanks for the tip Robert, I'll look into the possibility of fiting the capri cylinders to get more brake pressure at the rear.

I took the car out today and tested the brakes, there is pretty much no braking at the rear and the front braking isn't even at speed and the car snakes around. The most alarming part is when the front left locks up with the resulting screech of tyre and tyre smoke - at least it was for the cyclist who was wobbling around in front of me

The good news is that I have the car running perfectly now!

I discovered last weekend that the ignition switch was dodgy and was not making contact when turned over to the momentary start position and also in the running position it became clear that the switch was intermittent.

So, I received my new ignition switch from MGB Hive; took the old one out and the connections were entirely different!

Not too much of an issue as I marked up the original connections and the individual leads (no muti-plugs in those days) and then tested the old switch to see what connected to what. I then did the same on the replacement switch and the job was done!

The car was less difficult to start than before but clearly the problem wasn't just the switch.

I had also bought a new set of plugs, leads, cap, rotor, sports coil and a fan belt.

I fitted all of these and tidied up some of the wiring as I went along (mainly for the coil). When I fitted the new cap and rotor I noticed the old rotor was very different to the new one and a fair bit shorter!

With all the new parts installed I fired her up and she started instantly!
No more cranking over and over and over to get the car to start.
The real test would be how it starts when hot as that was the worst time before fitting the new parts.

I went out for a run on some fast roads and the B pulled really strongly and could easily and quickly reach speeds above 70, the overdrive worked perfectly too.

What a difference!

After getting back home I left the car for an hour and then went out and started it and it now runs immediately on turning the key, starting first time every time.

I was rather pleased with my 2 hours worth of efforts

More work to come next weekend, plus I'll take a few pics of what I've been doing.

Edited by Kentish on Sunday 12th July 23:36

[Kentish]

SB - Nigel said:

As they are now available for 1275 Spridgets (weren't when I bought ignitor head of course!!)

I've just swapped from an ignitor head in existing (possibly worn) dissy which had new, rotor, cap, leads and coil

to 1-2-3 full electronic dissy big improvement well worth the money

Hi Nigel;

I've heard they are good but quite expensive, so I have decided to go for a magnetic pick up type to replace the points and these work well and are only £45.

[Kentish]

Hi Nigel;

The magnetic pick up type I have opted for isn't too expensive if it is no good but they are apparently excellent and they also negate any wear issues with the dissy. Although, I appear to have a later 45D4 dissy fitted to my car and on checking it out it has no excessive movement of the shaft so is in good condition, quite clean inside too and looks like it may have been replaced not too many years/miles ago.

I've started pricing up the brake parts, not too bad for standard bits - there's the other thread about that so I won't go into detail here.

I'm quite pleased with how the car starts now, brilliantly in fact, hot or cold!
It runs and goes well too, there is some pre-ignition so think the timing needs checking and it's running slightly rich so a tune up of the carbs is probably required.

I'm quite happy with progress so far though and the car is getting quite useable.