My project MGB GT.
Discussion
I had a bit of car day yesterday (saturday) and I decided to fit my ebay burr walnut dash kit.
Easier said than done
I had to take half the dash apart to fit it
I now need two new heater control switch knobs as I could not get the little bleeders off without the aide of my dremel
I'm fairly happy with it considering it was only about £45 delivered but it is only a cover up for the tired looking hammerited dash beneath it; in a year or two I will fit a new dash but it's not a priority. I'll take some pics during the week and post up.
Whilst fiting the dash kit I had to remove the choke cable completely and when I put it back it would not operate again without jamming so I went and got a replacment one and fitted and that now all works fine, I took the opportunity to adjust the choke idle on the twin SU's as well and also the idle speed once warm as tickover was a bit high.
After that I did and oil and filter change which didn't go too well as my strap wrench broke
So I had to do my old trick of hammering a screw driver through the filter to use as a handle to undo it; I could only do up the replacement hand tight but it seems fine and doesn't leak.
I took the B out for a spin today and it went like a dream. Just the clonking hubs and poor brakes are now an issue and I'll be saving over the next couple of months to deal with them.
I've discovered a few things about the car too; It has a tube rear axle but it has half shafts and hubs suited to wire wheels so the wires with splined hubs were probably fitted from new. The rear suspension has been converted to telescopic dampers and I have a bump stop rubber missing one side.
I've also discovered that I have a later engine in my car, with the later distributor and the spin on type oil filter. I also have MGB GT V8 seats fitted.
That's pretty much it for this weekend; I will now be using the car a little during the week to see what the B is like in daily use.
Easier said than done
I had to take half the dash apart to fit it
I now need two new heater control switch knobs as I could not get the little bleeders off without the aide of my dremel
I'm fairly happy with it considering it was only about £45 delivered but it is only a cover up for the tired looking hammerited dash beneath it; in a year or two I will fit a new dash but it's not a priority. I'll take some pics during the week and post up.
Whilst fiting the dash kit I had to remove the choke cable completely and when I put it back it would not operate again without jamming so I went and got a replacment one and fitted and that now all works fine, I took the opportunity to adjust the choke idle on the twin SU's as well and also the idle speed once warm as tickover was a bit high.
After that I did and oil and filter change which didn't go too well as my strap wrench broke
So I had to do my old trick of hammering a screw driver through the filter to use as a handle to undo it; I could only do up the replacement hand tight but it seems fine and doesn't leak.
I took the B out for a spin today and it went like a dream. Just the clonking hubs and poor brakes are now an issue and I'll be saving over the next couple of months to deal with them.
I've discovered a few things about the car too; It has a tube rear axle but it has half shafts and hubs suited to wire wheels so the wires with splined hubs were probably fitted from new. The rear suspension has been converted to telescopic dampers and I have a bump stop rubber missing one side.
I've also discovered that I have a later engine in my car, with the later distributor and the spin on type oil filter. I also have MGB GT V8 seats fitted.
That's pretty much it for this weekend; I will now be using the car a little during the week to see what the B is like in daily use.
I did see the hole in the heater control knobs and used the exploded diagram in all 3 of my workshop manuals to see how they fit but I could not budge the pins enough to pull the knobs off.
Oil filter appears all OK with no leaks, although I did dribble a fair bit of old oil down the side of the engine when removing it most of which I have cleaned off but I'm going to use some jizer and clean it all up.
I wouldn't be surprised if my engine was replaced mid 90's when the car had a bit of an overhaul. The engine seems strong with good oil pressure (50+psi at idle) but the valve clearances need adjustment as it's a little tappety (job for next weekend, maybe).
I know what you mean regarding servicing, I've already done the coolant and I'll be changing the brake fluid when I do the brakes; the gearbox oil will be drained and replaced too. The rear diff is going, I'm buying a whole recon axle as they are inexpensive from the Hive. Suspension will also be greased and a new bump stop mounting peg needs to be welded on and a bump stop fitted but that's not too essential for use on good roads so can wait a while.
I'm not too worried about cosmetic stuff yet
I want to get the car nice and relaible which it appears to be now but I do want to get those brakes and hubs sorted and if I do the hubs I can't put the old wheels with worn splines back on as they will wear the new hubs and the tyres are also old. I know wheel choice is a bit of a cosmetic one but I'd hate to wear the new hubs prematurely. I've priced up all the brakes parts including new calipers, discs, pads, shoes, cylinders, hoses, copper lines, master cylinder, recon back axle, hubs, wheels and tyres and spinners at £1300 and can probably haggle a discount if I'm pushy
I want to get to the stage of a mechanically very sorted car. Then do a few bits of tidying up on the body and underneath and POR15 the underside and then underbody seal and take the car in for some paintwork. Then over a year or two, replace carpets, refurb my seats, fit new inertia reel belts and clean up the otherwise pefect headlining.
Sounds a fair bit of work but I'm starting with a sound car so not really as bad as all that and I've rebuilt classic Alfas and re-built a couple of kit cars in the past. I'll probably get the garage to do the rear axle and I may get them to do the brake lines after I've fitted the rest of the brake parts as that job is much easier on a ramp and worth checking on a brake tester after
What is really nice is that I have spent a small amount of time on giving the car a quick polish and wax and it looks superb, the dash was quite a cheap easy fix as I hated staring at the hammerite
Carpets are a bit DIY and worn but OK for a while.
The huge improvement is how the car starts and runs and how smooth it is since doing some servicing and replacing a few parts. There is still work to do, some hose clips to add and replace to stop any possible air leaks etc. But on the whole I'm exceptionally pleased with how it is improving week by week.
Caliper Recon. exch. x2 £72.00
Brake Disc x2 £21.90
Lockheed Brake Pads, Pins and Clips £9.50
GT Rear Wheel Cylinder x2 £19.90
Copper Brake Pipe Set £37.95
Brake Master Cylinder (up to '78) £47.50
Aeroquip Brake Hose Set £32.50
Front Wire Wheel Splined Hub x2 £125.00
New diff & Recon. back axle £165.00
Rear Wire wheel splined hub x2 £110.00
Wire Wheel Chrome S.S. Spoke 14" x4 £519.80
Wire Wheel Spinner with MG x4 £66.00
Copper Hide Hammer £13.95
165 x 14 Uniroyals x4 £130.00
£1,371.00
Brake Disc x2 £21.90
Lockheed Brake Pads, Pins and Clips £9.50
GT Rear Wheel Cylinder x2 £19.90
Copper Brake Pipe Set £37.95
Brake Master Cylinder (up to '78) £47.50
Aeroquip Brake Hose Set £32.50
Front Wire Wheel Splined Hub x2 £125.00
New diff & Recon. back axle £165.00
Rear Wire wheel splined hub x2 £110.00
Wire Wheel Chrome S.S. Spoke 14" x4 £519.80
Wire Wheel Spinner with MG x4 £66.00
Copper Hide Hammer £13.95
165 x 14 Uniroyals x4 £130.00
£1,371.00
I've decided on what I want to do with hubs, wheels etc.
I'm going to replace the entire rear axle with a recon one as it's quite worn and then I do not need to worry about whether I already have the correct length of half shaft for the wheels I'm going to fit.
Wheels, I've decided to go for bolt on hubs instead of splined and fit 15"x5.5" minilites.
They look great and the cost saving for them is around £500.
Wire wheels are nice but perhaps the MGB was a bit modern for them and they were a bit out of date even in the 60's, more suited to an MGA I think.
Minilites are a classic wheel and the works racing cars had them fitted so they are in keeping with the B.
The B's I was looking at on Sunday at a car show all looked great with the minilites fitted.
I'm going to replace the entire rear axle with a recon one as it's quite worn and then I do not need to worry about whether I already have the correct length of half shaft for the wheels I'm going to fit.
Wheels, I've decided to go for bolt on hubs instead of splined and fit 15"x5.5" minilites.
They look great and the cost saving for them is around £500.
Wire wheels are nice but perhaps the MGB was a bit modern for them and they were a bit out of date even in the 60's, more suited to an MGA I think.
Minilites are a classic wheel and the works racing cars had them fitted so they are in keeping with the B.
The B's I was looking at on Sunday at a car show all looked great with the minilites fitted.
Moss recommend 15" for road use - I'm not sure the minilites look right in 14" either.
I have 14" x 5.5 currently and I feel the extra inch will make no noticable adverse difference to handling, if anything braking grip and traction should be better. That's why you shouldn't have 30psi in your tyres
I may in the fullness of time fit some larger wilwood calipers and the smaller wheels won't offer enough clearance (I'm also thinking ahead to things I may do in the future).
Granted, the steering may feel slightly heavier but I don't find it overly heavy anyway and could suffer it being slightly heavier, if it is. I also have a mountney fitted (not a tiny one though)
My original bakelite triple 3 spoked steering wheel was cracked (common prob) and unsafe to use so I fitted the mountney that came in a box of parts with my car
I have 14" x 5.5 currently and I feel the extra inch will make no noticable adverse difference to handling, if anything braking grip and traction should be better. That's why you shouldn't have 30psi in your tyres
I may in the fullness of time fit some larger wilwood calipers and the smaller wheels won't offer enough clearance (I'm also thinking ahead to things I may do in the future).
Granted, the steering may feel slightly heavier but I don't find it overly heavy anyway and could suffer it being slightly heavier, if it is. I also have a mountney fitted (not a tiny one though)
My original bakelite triple 3 spoked steering wheel was cracked (common prob) and unsafe to use so I fitted the mountney that came in a box of parts with my car
Well, on reflection the 15" wheels don't look right as the holes are too large so I'll be going for 14" minilites as they look much more "proper"
I'm a bit unclear whether you need a hub with bolt on wheels or whether they go straight onto the drive flange?? It'll reduce my unsprung weight even more if they do
I've a feeling that there is also a hub for the bolt on wheels that is in turn bolted to the drive flange.
Incidentally, a rear axle originally intended to have bolt on wheels is 48" wide from back plate to back plate and a rear axle with original wire wheels is 46.5" wide. That is how you can tell whether you have a conversion kit fitted.
My wife is trying to talk me into doing all the brakes first and then the axle, wheels and hubs a bit later in a couple of months time but I don't see the point in that as you then have to remove some of what you have recently fitted and then refit it again. I'll make a mechanic out of her yet
I'm a bit unclear whether you need a hub with bolt on wheels or whether they go straight onto the drive flange?? It'll reduce my unsprung weight even more if they do
I've a feeling that there is also a hub for the bolt on wheels that is in turn bolted to the drive flange.
Incidentally, a rear axle originally intended to have bolt on wheels is 48" wide from back plate to back plate and a rear axle with original wire wheels is 46.5" wide. That is how you can tell whether you have a conversion kit fitted.
My wife is trying to talk me into doing all the brakes first and then the axle, wheels and hubs a bit later in a couple of months time but I don't see the point in that as you then have to remove some of what you have recently fitted and then refit it again. I'll make a mechanic out of her yet
Nothing to report this weekend as I didn't do any work on the B; I just drove it a lot
The brakes do continue to scare the crap out of me but other than that and the clonking the B is great to drive
Has anyone else noticed how many youngsters look at your MGB; I guess it's becasue they don't remember seeing them around as we used to.
The brakes do continue to scare the crap out of me but other than that and the clonking the B is great to drive
Has anyone else noticed how many youngsters look at your MGB; I guess it's becasue they don't remember seeing them around as we used to.
A bit late but last weekend I replaced my 2 dash heater controls and the indicator relay and fitted my centre console and armrest, new gaitor and round gear knob.
Still saving up for back axle, front & rear hubs, half shafts, rear shoes and drums, front discs and pads, solid brake lines, stainless hoses, wheels & tyres.
Still saving up for back axle, front & rear hubs, half shafts, rear shoes and drums, front discs and pads, solid brake lines, stainless hoses, wheels & tyres.
An update on the brakes, not much to say other than I appear to have one left front brake working and that's all!
As you can imagine, the braking is quite hair raising so I have a pair of exchange calipers on order. I did consider a kit to rebuild them but at £34 each for an entire caliper there did nopt seem much point
New cylinders (£19) are going on the rear along with new lines and hoses.
All standard parts, no upgrading other than good pads!
As you can imagine, the braking is quite hair raising so I have a pair of exchange calipers on order. I did consider a kit to rebuild them but at £34 each for an entire caliper there did nopt seem much point
New cylinders (£19) are going on the rear along with new lines and hoses.
All standard parts, no upgrading other than good pads!
I've not done a huge amount to the MGB as I'm saving for the big ticket items but I have tidied up the rather messy hand painted dash with a walnut veneer kit from fleabay (£43) - it's not perfect but it looks much better than the horrible hammerite!
I fitted a decent console to replace the bodged one covered with carpet and I made a new fascia to go in the console to house the gauges and switches. Also fitted the arm rest for a little extra storage and a new gaitor, chrome ring and gear knob to replace tired looking originals.
Here's a few pics.
Oh, and the MGB now has undercover parking when not in the garage
I fitted a decent console to replace the bodged one covered with carpet and I made a new fascia to go in the console to house the gauges and switches. Also fitted the arm rest for a little extra storage and a new gaitor, chrome ring and gear knob to replace tired looking originals.
Here's a few pics.
Oh, and the MGB now has undercover parking when not in the garage
Edited by Kentish on Saturday 29th August 10:41
Just a quick update.
I have been using the MGB a bit but she is now laid up awaiting replacement rear wheel cylinders due to one leaking.
I noticed that the one brake with the greater efficiency is the front passenger side and it's because the caliper has previously been replaced in the recent past. I'm going to replace the other side and fit a new pair of discs and pads when I do the rear cylinders and the rear shoes.
Another thing I have noticed is that the exhaust does not clear the chassis and that is a cause of clonking too, on closer inspection the down pipes look like they are at the wrong angle or are too short so I may need to adjust or replace those (possibly extend them) and then realign the exhaust system.
I think I have come to a decision on the wheels and will replace the worn splined hubs with bolt ons and the shorter half shafts and fit some minilite reps. I think I'll have a measure up first to see whether I can get the wheels to fit using the old half shafts - they will sit further out but as long as they clear the arches it should be fine.
I have been using the MGB a bit but she is now laid up awaiting replacement rear wheel cylinders due to one leaking.
I noticed that the one brake with the greater efficiency is the front passenger side and it's because the caliper has previously been replaced in the recent past. I'm going to replace the other side and fit a new pair of discs and pads when I do the rear cylinders and the rear shoes.
Another thing I have noticed is that the exhaust does not clear the chassis and that is a cause of clonking too, on closer inspection the down pipes look like they are at the wrong angle or are too short so I may need to adjust or replace those (possibly extend them) and then realign the exhaust system.
I think I have come to a decision on the wheels and will replace the worn splined hubs with bolt ons and the shorter half shafts and fit some minilite reps. I think I'll have a measure up first to see whether I can get the wheels to fit using the old half shafts - they will sit further out but as long as they clear the arches it should be fine.
Hubs are interchangeable but the half shafts are longer if you have splined hubs so they usually require replacing with those intended for use with bolt on hubs.
I asked MGB Hive about prices and they said they would do me some secoinhand half shalfts and bolt on hubs at a discounted price.
Very generous of them to offer but as you say, the splined hub set up is quite sought after and demands a higher price
I'd rather do a swap with someone looking for a splined hub complete axle and also swap over the front hubs too. My wheels & tyres could be included as they are fine, just the hubs are worn.
I asked MGB Hive about prices and they said they would do me some secoinhand half shalfts and bolt on hubs at a discounted price.
Very generous of them to offer but as you say, the splined hub set up is quite sought after and demands a higher price
I'd rather do a swap with someone looking for a splined hub complete axle and also swap over the front hubs too. My wheels & tyres could be included as they are fine, just the hubs are worn.
wildoliver said:
The axle case is also narrower don't forget.
I doubt you will have to work too hard to find takers on a swap like that!
Well, if anyone is interested then please feel free to get in touch.I doubt you will have to work too hard to find takers on a swap like that!
Exchange items must be free of extensive wear and in good condition (as are mine with the exception of the splined hubs).
I had an offer through from Moss and decided to place an order and save some money until I noticed that their rear wheel cylinders are £46.95 each!
I had a look at other suppliers and the exact same part with the same part number is only £7.95 - £10 each (slight price variations depending on supplier).
That's a huuuuuuge difference!
I decided to order the parts as and when needed from MGBHive or MGOCS.
I had a look at other suppliers and the exact same part with the same part number is only £7.95 - £10 each (slight price variations depending on supplier).
That's a huuuuuuge difference!
I decided to order the parts as and when needed from MGBHive or MGOCS.
wildoliver said:
Bhive aren't the cheapest (although cheaper than OC) but Nigel and Sandras service is excellent!
I don't always live in France, I am building a home out there but actually spend a lot of time over here (working sadly), I'm found in sunny Yorkshire most days!
I have had to press the MGB into action as my master cylinder expired on my Audi.I don't always live in France, I am building a home out there but actually spend a lot of time over here (working sadly), I'm found in sunny Yorkshire most days!
It has been doing really well, keeping up with modern traffic, starting 1st time each time.
I still have to fit my points less electronic ignition module, a job for the winter but it all works fine for now.
And I noticed i need to fit some better throttle return springs to the twin SU's.
During the week I spoke with a mate of mine who owns a garage (miles away but...) he knows another workshop near him who is an MGB restorer
We are going to look into doing a deal with him to swap axles and hubs and wheels and do the work at my mates workshop
whilst the B is on the ramps it will be a good opportunity to sort out the exhaust clearances as it currently drums on parts of the chassis.
I tackled the brakes today.
Stripping off the old calipers and flexi hoses was easy.
I replaced these with new standard lockheed calipers, standard lockheed pads and a set of uprated Goodridge stainless hoses.
I was going to replace the discs with new standard items too but I took the hubs and discs off together, unbolted them but could not get them apart so had to put the same discs back which was not an issue really as they are both in excellent condition and the same thickness as the new ones I wasn't able to fit.
I replaced the brake fluid too whilst bleeding the brakes
I didn't have time to replace the rear shoes and cylinders today but may have time on Sunday if it doesn't rain too much!
On the test drive I noticed that she still pulls left under braking slightly but less so than before so this is likely to be the master cylinder. They are even enough to pass an MOT I should think and the stopping power is much improved but I think I may have to bleed them a little more (was doing them on my own). The pedal is slightly soft but if you release and push the pedal again it is very firm and braking is excellent.
I now get lock up under braking on both front wheels so the braking effort is definitely more even and effective now. The Pirelli P4000 tyres are the main problem, they have about as much grip as a pair of ice skates!
These will be replaced with some decent tyres soon when I replace the worn wire wheels.
Yes, I've decided to stick with wires wheels
All 4 hubs are worn, I've source 2 new rear ones for £70 for the pair which is a good price. I'll be sourcing a pair of front hubs soon too and I can fitt these to the new discs before they go on the car.
I have a few plans in mind for bodywork and upgrades but I'll go into that at a later time.
All I'll say for now is 'works, light weight, race, bumperless, sebring'
Stripping off the old calipers and flexi hoses was easy.
I replaced these with new standard lockheed calipers, standard lockheed pads and a set of uprated Goodridge stainless hoses.
I was going to replace the discs with new standard items too but I took the hubs and discs off together, unbolted them but could not get them apart so had to put the same discs back which was not an issue really as they are both in excellent condition and the same thickness as the new ones I wasn't able to fit.
I replaced the brake fluid too whilst bleeding the brakes
I didn't have time to replace the rear shoes and cylinders today but may have time on Sunday if it doesn't rain too much!
On the test drive I noticed that she still pulls left under braking slightly but less so than before so this is likely to be the master cylinder. They are even enough to pass an MOT I should think and the stopping power is much improved but I think I may have to bleed them a little more (was doing them on my own). The pedal is slightly soft but if you release and push the pedal again it is very firm and braking is excellent.
I now get lock up under braking on both front wheels so the braking effort is definitely more even and effective now. The Pirelli P4000 tyres are the main problem, they have about as much grip as a pair of ice skates!
These will be replaced with some decent tyres soon when I replace the worn wire wheels.
Yes, I've decided to stick with wires wheels
All 4 hubs are worn, I've source 2 new rear ones for £70 for the pair which is a good price. I'll be sourcing a pair of front hubs soon too and I can fitt these to the new discs before they go on the car.
I have a few plans in mind for bodywork and upgrades but I'll go into that at a later time.
All I'll say for now is 'works, light weight, race, bumperless, sebring'
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