SR8 questions

[parsonsj]

So for my next question:

Has anybody ever removed and replaced the windshied/dash cover? I pulled mine off for access to the behind the dash wiring, and it's time to put it back on. It's obviously been off and on a couple of times based on the several layers of silicon sealant I've just spent hours removing from both surfaces.

The original sealant seems to have been urethane-based. I'm wondering if I really need sealant at all -- it would be much easier for future maintenance if I could remove it quickly.

thanks!

[parsonsj]

And another question: is it normal for these motors (SR8 / RPB) to leak oil past the main studs? I've washed them off with brake clean a couple of times, but several of them are dripping wet with oil a couple of days later.

[parsonsj]

And yet another question: is there any way to know if I have a standard or a wide seat?

Is there a measurement or a tell-tale of some sort?

I'm hopeful I've got a standard seat and can get some relief with a wide(r) seat.

[parsonsj]

I talked with Jim at Wisko Racing in Virginia. He confirms that my seat is the standard size and is checking with Radical about a wider model.

[parsonsj]

OK, I've got both seats now, the wide and a standard. The wide fits my 57 yr old body much better, and I'm heading to Atlanta next month to get an EIS seat insert made for it.

[parsonsj]

Next question: How does one strap these cars to a trailer? Wheel nets?

Or do you use the hub adapters?

thanks!

[splitpin]

Hub Tie Downs like these >

https://www.radicalonline.co.uk/products/AT0008-%2...

Just two required (some use just the one, but I veer towards the belts and braces principle), fitted to rear wheels only, nicely but not ridiculously tight tether each way on both. Not using the front wheels avoids putting the geo out of sync when tightening and/or when in transit. Tip 1: insert the tie downs when the car is on the trailer so they can be inserted with the hoop horizontal or thereabouts; that way the tethers have very little tendency to pull on the steering. Tip 2: use a bolt and nylock nut rather than a long splitpin(!) to secure the tie down to the hub.

HTH

Cheers

Trev

[parsonsj]

Trev, that's most helpful! Thanks very much.

John

[malbrech]

Did you get a response to access the battery. New to a Radical myself and need to replace the battery . How do you get into the side compartment where it is located?

[parsonsj]

I've (finally) got the car running. With the cam sensor connected, the engine does go into 720 mode. Well, it does when one gets the pins in the proper ports, anyway. All good there.

My last track day generated an enormous engine oil leak, and I think my "main stud" leak was this too. I think I've got a crack in the crank case cover (not sure of the correct term) where pressurized oil exiting the filter goes into the engine block. Anybody seen this before?

[parsonsj]

Unfortunately, it seems clear that this will require an engine disassembly to repair. The leak is in the piston squirter pressure port, and is a fire risk. Sigh.

[parsonsj]

Let's see if we can leak to a video...

https://youtu.be/sR16AnzLdYk

The video shows an oil leak in my crankcase cover. A new one is 3000 pounds. I'm looking for a less expensive alternative...

[Martin B]

If it is just a porous casting (rather than a crack), what about getting it sealed using the (I think it is) vacuum (ceramic?) impregnation process?

A friend of mine has had some old (1960s) aluminium cylinder head castings sorted like that as they were porous.

Or you could get it lazer welded as there is minimal heat involved in that process.

Edited by Martin B on Thursday 7th December 10:55

Edited by Martin B on Thursday 7th December 10:58

[parsonsj]

I've not heard of vacuum ceramic for repair of castings. I'm a bit leery of any welding. The voids in the casting are full of oil, and any welding is going to iffy at best. I could have mill that passage away, then fill with weld, then re-machine.

Another idea would be to press a thin-wall tube inside the existing hole. I'd worry about it eventually slipping out of place, but that might be a simple repair.

Another idea would be to block the passage. It's a perfect size for 1/4-20 tap, and I could put a 1.5" set screw into it with Loctite pipe sealant. The leaking passage is used for the piston squirter on that cylinder only (why a direct feed from the main oil galley?); all the other piston squirters get oil secondarily from the main galley.

See the hole next to it on the top surface? That's an oil feed for the cams. I could grind a little valley there to get oil back to that squirter after blocking the passage.

[Jonathan Wright]

Hi John
It’s a shame you not in the UK., I’m sure we could help you out with the repair.
Take a look at our facebook page and look through the photos, the oil shouldn’t cause to much problem with the welding.

https://www.facebook.com/pg/AquablastUkCambridgeLt...

[parsonsj]

Jonathan—your Post has inspired me! I’ve done a fair bit of TIG welding, but this part is too expensive for me to ply my skills. But I found a local company that does similar repairs to what I see on your Facebook page that tell me they can fix the casting for me next week.

Edited by parsonsj on Saturday 9th December 00:28

[parsonsj]

Martin,

I finally found some information about the vacuum/pressure impregnation process. I can't find anybody local to me that does it one a small scale, but it look promising for sure.

[parsonsj]

Martin,

I finally found some information about the vacuum/pressure impregnation process. I can't find anybody local to me that does it one a small scale, but it look promising for sure.

[parsonsj]

Casting flaw was repaired with pressed-in brass sleeve. Now off to Radical Performance Engines (at Spring Mountain Racing in Nevada) for refresh.