B8 S4 Ownership
Discussion
A lot of the variation in ownership experience seems to depend on how the cars have been looked after through their lives - I've heard of a few with major oil leak issues (and they all like to drink a fair drop). Having come from more complex cars I'm all for staying on top of little jobs (changed a window mechanism which started grinding, well before it was likely to fail, as didn't fancy issues with the pillarless glass on the S5!)
Worth finding one that's seen regular ramp and stamp - I'd avoid anything that's been run out till 2 years between services every time, as the way the service counts down should mean that barely ever happens.
By the way, no mechanical dipstick on these, but they can be retrofitted and are much better than the MMI display for topping up.
Worth finding one that's seen regular ramp and stamp - I'd avoid anything that's been run out till 2 years between services every time, as the way the service counts down should mean that barely ever happens.
By the way, no mechanical dipstick on these, but they can be retrofitted and are much better than the MMI display for topping up.
RoVoFob said:
Sorry to hear that. Sounds like a pain - especially as it’s hardly a high-mileage car. Is it possible these are electrical issues or have you noticed mechanical problems (bar the leaks)?
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Thank you..
I am hoping that the last 2 issues (warning lights) are electrical issues. They both appeared relatively shortly after the car had been laid up for a couple of weeks, and I've had a few "low voltage" battery warnings recently too.
Would it be worth just trying to fit a new battery? Or would I need to clear the fault codes first?
matrignano said:
Thank you.
I am hoping that the last 2 issues (warning lights) are electrical issues. They both appeared relatively shortly after the car had been laid up for a couple of weeks, and I've had a few "low voltage" battery warnings recently too.
Would it be worth just trying to fit a new battery? Or would I need to clear the fault codes first?
Depends on the nature of the fault code memory for those items - how old is the battery? In my experience they're good for about 3 years before they start throwing warnings. If you can access a fault code scanning tool you'll probably find reports of the car going into deeper energy conservation modes - they don't indicate a fault as such, but if it's happening quickly after parking up for a while it does show the battery is weak.I am hoping that the last 2 issues (warning lights) are electrical issues. They both appeared relatively shortly after the car had been laid up for a couple of weeks, and I've had a few "low voltage" battery warnings recently too.
Would it be worth just trying to fit a new battery? Or would I need to clear the fault codes first?
When mine's in the garage for weeks at a time I always connect a maintenance charger at the charge points under the bonnet to keep the battery charged.
Note that to fit a new battery properly you need to tell the car it has been replaced, so it resets the battery management module. It's also quite involved to access the battery unless you're handy with the spanners. Quite a bit of trim in the boot to remove (spare wheel, tool kit, mounting brackets, B&O subwoofer)
Maybe speak to a local indy specialist about having a scan done and replacing the battery if it needs it, or just charge it up if you can at home? Under normal circumstances I'd suggest finding a local VCDS owner to scan it for you, but clearly that's not on the table at the moment.....
Adrian E said:
A lot of the variation in ownership experience seems to depend on how the cars have been looked after through their lives - I've heard of a few with major oil leak issues (and they all like to drink a fair drop). Having come from more complex cars I'm all for staying on top of little jobs (changed a window mechanism which started grinding, well before it was likely to fail, as didn't fancy issues with the pillarless glass on the S5!)
Worth finding one that's seen regular ramp and stamp - I'd avoid anything that's been run out till 2 years between services every time, as the way the service counts down should mean that barely ever happens.
By the way, no mechanical dipstick on these, but they can be retrofitted and are much better than the MMI display for topping up.
So a car that’s been to the garage around once a year sounds like a reasonably safe bet, then? Worth finding one that's seen regular ramp and stamp - I'd avoid anything that's been run out till 2 years between services every time, as the way the service counts down should mean that barely ever happens.
By the way, no mechanical dipstick on these, but they can be retrofitted and are much better than the MMI display for topping up.
One of the ones I’m looking at had an advisory for ‘front oil leak, but not excessive’ last year. Hopefully that’s not too bad a sign...
I’m used to not having a dipstick - both of my BMW 130is were dipstick-less. Annoying but not too much of a problem. Retrofit still sounds like it might be wise, though.
matrignano said:
I don't think swapping a battery is beyond my abilities, but I don't have any tools.
Also I have an S5 Cab and I guess battery replacement is probably that bit trickier.
I'll see if I there is an Audi specialist open nearby.
Actually any recommendations in central-ish London please?
Not a specialist, but I phoned a couple of Audi main dealers yesterday to see if I could get standard suspension and ADS suspension replacement costs (expecting ADS to be much more expensive). Most were closed but Finchley Road took the call - haven’t got back to me yet, but might be worth a call...Also I have an S5 Cab and I guess battery replacement is probably that bit trickier.
I'll see if I there is an Audi specialist open nearby.
Actually any recommendations in central-ish London please?
Adrian E said:
I wouldn't worry too much about hill hold assist - you can retrofit it fairly easily - new parking brake switch with the hill hold button, and one wire to run to the ABS controller under the bonnet. It's a rare option, so I wouldn't rule out a car without it.
Realise you're discussing manual cars here but I can see why HHA might be rare, given most cars are auto - mine (auto) doesn't have it and simply doesn't need it.As an aside my Wife's (manual) Q2 has it and it can sometimes be a hindrance, especially if on a downhill section as you can't easily roll forwards for a better view out of a junction plus we've had a couple of occasions where it (or the handbrake?) has come on in traffic and wouldn't release - not quite sure why but will ask the dealer at the first service/visit.
catso said:
Realise you're discussing manual cars here but I can see why HHA might be rare, given most cars are auto - mine (auto) doesn't have it and simply doesn't need it.
My '09 manual A4 had HHA and generally I loved it. So ticked the box when I ordered the S4, and it's pretty much a waste of time.The combination of HHA, DSG and Stop/Start is pretty badly thought out. HHA isn't really about hill starts - it just allows you to release the footbrake in traffic without risk of the car rolling. However, when you release the footbrake, stop/start restarts the engine immediately!
RoVoFob said:
So a car that’s been to the garage around once a year sounds like a reasonably safe bet, then?
One of the ones I’m looking at had an advisory for ‘front oil leak, but not excessive’ last year. Hopefully that’s not too bad a sign...
I’m used to not having a dipstick - both of my BMW 130is were dipstick-less. Annoying but not too much of a problem. Retrofit still sounds like it might be wise, though.
Definitely a safer bet, and less likely to have issues with the oily bits if the oil hasn't been left festering well beyond its best. Just a sign of more careful ownership.One of the ones I’m looking at had an advisory for ‘front oil leak, but not excessive’ last year. Hopefully that’s not too bad a sign...
I’m used to not having a dipstick - both of my BMW 130is were dipstick-less. Annoying but not too much of a problem. Retrofit still sounds like it might be wise, though.
Ref the one you've seen, I'd want to know where that leak is coming from and get a quote for fixing - it could quickly become problematic and stripping the front end to access anything is going to be a few hours work.
There's a blanking plug at the front right of the engine on the top of a dipstick tube. They leave the tube on the engine to allow main dealers to use a mechanical dipstick to check accuracy of the MMI reading when it keeps reporting under/over filled. The block is based on the 3.2 used in previous generation of A6 and the dipstick from that is a straight fit - part number I can dig out if needed.
matrignano said:
I don't think swapping a battery is beyond my abilities, but I don't have any tools.
Also I have an S5 Cab and I guess battery replacement is probably that bit trickier.
I'll see if I there is an Audi specialist open nearby.
Actually any recommendations in central-ish London please?
You'd need a small socket set at the least to get to it. It's not massively more complicated to access on the cab - it's basically right on the centreline of the car, under the spacesaver. So spacesaver out, tool set and bracket out, B&O amp out, clamp removed from battery, terminals disconnected, swap battery, reconnect and unplug the small 2 pin plug on one of the terminals for a short while to reset the battery management module. Then ideally you need to put a different serial number for the battery in with VCDS or similar so the car realises it has a new battery.Also I have an S5 Cab and I guess battery replacement is probably that bit trickier.
I'll see if I there is an Audi specialist open nearby.
Actually any recommendations in central-ish London please?
Worth charging a new battery before fitting - they're usually only half charged, so if you're not using the car it helps to top it up before fitting!
silentbrown said:
My '09 manual A4 had HHA and generally I loved it. So ticked the box when I ordered the S4, and it's pretty much a waste of time.
The combination of HHA, DSG and Stop/Start is pretty badly thought out. HHA isn't really about hill starts - it just allows you to release the footbrake in traffic without risk of the car rolling. However, when you release the footbrake, stop/start restarts the engine immediately!
We've got HHA on our Golf GTI with DSG - only time it gets used on that is if we're in stop start traffic on a major road so I don't have to hold it on the footbrake. It's a pain in the backside for parking. On the auto if you usa HHA you need to brake very lightly so the engine doesn't cut out on stop-start. If you do brake hard enough for stop-start to kick in, I find a quick tap on the throttle before you need to pull away will restart the engine without disengaging HHA, then just throttle again to pull away when you're ready.The combination of HHA, DSG and Stop/Start is pretty badly thought out. HHA isn't really about hill starts - it just allows you to release the footbrake in traffic without risk of the car rolling. However, when you release the footbrake, stop/start restarts the engine immediately!
I can relate to it being much more useful on a manual - have a feeling you get 'HHA light' anyway for clutch control purposes, so it holds the car briefly until you have the bite point, to stop the car rolling back?
silentbrown said:
My '09 manual A4 had HHA and generally I loved it. So ticked the box when I ordered the S4, and it's pretty much a waste of time.
The combination of HHA, DSG and Stop/Start is pretty badly thought out. HHA isn't really about hill starts - it just allows you to release the footbrake in traffic without risk of the car rolling. However, when you release the footbrake, stop/start restarts the engine immediately!
I’d rather the car simply had a manual handbrake, but HHA with a manual is far better than just a slow-to-react switch by itself. Thankfully newer auto cars seem to have much better integrated HHA and stop-start.The combination of HHA, DSG and Stop/Start is pretty badly thought out. HHA isn't really about hill starts - it just allows you to release the footbrake in traffic without risk of the car rolling. However, when you release the footbrake, stop/start restarts the engine immediately!
Does HHA with an auto S4 keep the brake lights on when stopped? More and more cars seem to have super-bright rear brake lights permanently on when stopped at junctions or traffic lights. Hate it! Can be blinding.
Adrian E said:
There's a blanking plug at the front right of the engine on the top of a dipstick tube. They leave the tube on the engine to allow main dealers to use a mechanical dipstick to check accuracy of the MMI reading when it keeps reporting under/over filled. The block is based on the 3.2 used in previous generation of A6 and the dipstick from that is a straight fit - part number I can dig out if needed.
I didn't like the idea of no dipstick on my S4 so I bought one from an Audi dealer, cost around a tenner IIRC.RoVoFob said:
Has anyone driven/owned both S4 Saloon and Avant - if so, how do they compare?
I’ve owned a B8 S4 saloon and a B8.5 S4 avant. Practicality wise it’s pretty self explanatory, I actually prefer the looks of the avant so it’s a no brainier for me. Saying that, my bike fits in the back of my current Octavia hatch far easier than the S4 avant.Saloon had the adaptive dampers where as the avant didn’t, if I’m honest it’s not something I noticed and it was nice having one less thing to worry about as the cost to repair these things out of warranty is painful. Both had the sports diff which seems to be regarded quite highly and it was quite playful considering the weight of the car.
Both were S-tronic, but having driven a manual in the past I would go for 3 pedals if I was to get another.
Adrian E said:
Definitely a safer bet, and less likely to have issues with the oily bits if the oil hasn't been left festering well beyond its best. Just a sign of more careful ownership.
Ref the one you've seen, I'd want to know where that leak is coming from and get a quote for fixing - it could quickly become problematic and stripping the front end to access anything is going to be a few hours work.
There's a blanking plug at the front right of the engine on the top of a dipstick tube. They leave the tube on the engine to allow main dealers to use a mechanical dipstick to check accuracy of the MMI reading when it keeps reporting under/over filled. The block is based on the 3.2 used in previous generation of A6 and the dipstick from that is a straight fit - part number I can dig out if needed.
Seems to have been looked after, so the leak’s the main concern. Will look into it. That was an MOT advisory in September, but not on the most recent one in March, oddly. Either they’ve fixed it, or it’s so small it’s hard to notice...Ref the one you've seen, I'd want to know where that leak is coming from and get a quote for fixing - it could quickly become problematic and stripping the front end to access anything is going to be a few hours work.
There's a blanking plug at the front right of the engine on the top of a dipstick tube. They leave the tube on the engine to allow main dealers to use a mechanical dipstick to check accuracy of the MMI reading when it keeps reporting under/over filled. The block is based on the 3.2 used in previous generation of A6 and the dipstick from that is a straight fit - part number I can dig out if needed.
Thanks for all the info and advice. Very helpful. Just need to wait until lockdown’s over and I go and see any of these cars now!
Adrian E said:
Definitely a safer bet, and less likely to have issues with the oily bits if the oil hasn't been left festering well beyond its best. Just a sign of more careful ownership.
Ref the one you've seen, I'd want to know where that leak is coming from and get a quote for fixing - it could quickly become problematic and stripping the front end to access anything is going to be a few hours work.
There's a blanking plug at the front right of the engine on the top of a dipstick tube. They leave the tube on the engine to allow main dealers to use a mechanical dipstick to check accuracy of the MMI reading when it keeps reporting under/over filled. The block is based on the 3.2 used in previous generation of A6 and the dipstick from that is a straight fit - part number I can dig out if needed.
How concerned would you be about another 96k-mile S4 with adaptive suspension and an advisory for ‘offside rear spring corroded’ in 2019? It’s on original suspension and coming up to 11 years old. Ref the one you've seen, I'd want to know where that leak is coming from and get a quote for fixing - it could quickly become problematic and stripping the front end to access anything is going to be a few hours work.
There's a blanking plug at the front right of the engine on the top of a dipstick tube. They leave the tube on the engine to allow main dealers to use a mechanical dipstick to check accuracy of the MMI reading when it keeps reporting under/over filled. The block is based on the 3.2 used in previous generation of A6 and the dipstick from that is a straight fit - part number I can dig out if needed.
Imagine a new set of adaptive suspension could be several thousand pounds... Non-adaptive S4-spec Bilstein B12 kit is well under £700, meanwhile.
On a different note, I understand that pre-facelift models have hydraulic steering. Is Dynamic Steering on a pre-facelift model still hydraulic, or does that need to be electric to vary the weighting? Thanks.
RoVoFob said:
One of the ones I’m looking at had an advisory for ‘front oil leak, but not excessive’ last year. Hopefully that’s not too bad a sign...
Mine had a minor, not excessive leak from the back of the gearbox. Dealer picked it up at the MOT, (a couple of months after the warranty expired!) but not at the service a few months earlier.They wanted £120 to diagnose the problem (which was clearly a faulty gasket so didn't need 'diagnosing') but as the leak was minimal I left it until the next service which I had done by an independent.
They fixed the leak for little more than the proposed diagnostic fee and changed the gearbox oil/filter at the same time along with service etc.
They told me that it looked like the gasket sealant had been applied too sparingly when it was built.
Other than that, the only problem I've had was an intermittent faulty coil pack (dealer wanted £60 to 'diagnose') so I bought a new coil for £30 and swapped it myself.
RoVoFob said:
How concerned would you be about another 96k-mile S4 with adaptive suspension and an advisory for ‘offside rear spring corroded’ in 2019? It’s on original suspension and coming up to 11 years old.
Imagine a new set of adaptive suspension could be several thousand pounds... Non-adaptive S4-spec Bilstein B12 kit is well under £700, meanwhile.
On a different note, I understand that pre-facelift models have hydraulic steering. Is Dynamic Steering on a pre-facelift model still hydraulic, or does that need to be electric to vary the weighting? Thanks.
I wouldn't be unduly worried - most suspension is 'corroded' to some degree - probably just one of those advisories that'll come and go year to year!Imagine a new set of adaptive suspension could be several thousand pounds... Non-adaptive S4-spec Bilstein B12 kit is well under £700, meanwhile.
On a different note, I understand that pre-facelift models have hydraulic steering. Is Dynamic Steering on a pre-facelift model still hydraulic, or does that need to be electric to vary the weighting? Thanks.
The adaptive dampers aren't that expensive from Audi, if memory serves. Springs won't vary in terms of price between adaptive or not either.
Yes, dynamic steering is hydraulic - it's not great, but most of them have it, including mine.....
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