1995 Griffith 500 restoration
Discussion
A modelling trick when you finish a kit and remove the masking to find dust inside the canopy is to use a brush to create static to draw the debris away from view, ideally toward a hole in the bottom.
A more aggressive tactic is to pop in some small plastic beads or similar & agitate whilst vacuuming the available hole.
Not sure if this will work but it is another line of enquiry.
I also once ‘repaired’ a waterlogged Smiths rev counter by popping it in the oven an bringing the oven up to about 80 degrees C.
It still worked and was now dry.
My experience doesn’t always constitute advice.
A more aggressive tactic is to pop in some small plastic beads or similar & agitate whilst vacuuming the available hole.
Not sure if this will work but it is another line of enquiry.
I also once ‘repaired’ a waterlogged Smiths rev counter by popping it in the oven an bringing the oven up to about 80 degrees C.
It still worked and was now dry.
My experience doesn’t always constitute advice.
Stick Legs said:
How?
We need answers!
Mounted in a lathe chuck, clocked up, parting tool used to carefully cut away the flanged part of the bezel. Proper squeaky bum time as no room for mistakes.We need answers!
Sharpened a small flat blade screwdriver to a point to gently prise off the bezel.
Popped it off, cleaned up the clock face and job done.
RobXjcoupe said:
Mounted in a lathe chuck, clocked up, parting tool used to carefully cut away the flanged part of the bezel. Proper squeaky bum time as no room for mistakes.
Sharpened a small flat blade screwdriver to a point to gently prise off the bezel.
Popped it off, cleaned up the clock face and job done.
Very neat. Sharpened a small flat blade screwdriver to a point to gently prise off the bezel.
Popped it off, cleaned up the clock face and job done.
RobXjcoupe said:
RobXjcoupe said:
Mounted in a lathe chuck, clocked up, parting tool used to carefully cut away the flanged part of the bezel. Proper squeaky bum time as no room for mistakes.
Sharpened a small flat blade screwdriver to a point to gently prise off the bezel.
Popped it off, cleaned up the clock face and job done.
You have got to be feeling goodSharpened a small flat blade screwdriver to a point to gently prise off the bezel.
Popped it off, cleaned up the clock face and job done.
Have witnessed a few near on impossible fixes throughout my life, your fix is now added
Perfection
Polly Grigora said:
RobXjcoupe said:
RobXjcoupe said:
Mounted in a lathe chuck, clocked up, parting tool used to carefully cut away the flanged part of the bezel. Proper squeaky bum time as no room for mistakes.
Sharpened a small flat blade screwdriver to a point to gently prise off the bezel.
Popped it off, cleaned up the clock face and job done.
You have got to be feeling goodSharpened a small flat blade screwdriver to a point to gently prise off the bezel.
Popped it off, cleaned up the clock face and job done.
Have witnessed a few near on impossible fixes throughout my life, your fix is now added
Perfection
sixor8 said:
You'd have a secondary income I reckon, doing that to the analogue speedometers (Chimaeras and Cerberas too). 
So many of them stick eventually, and it's getting the bezel off without butchering it that's the main problem.
The Griff and chimaera dials are just rehashed old Jaguar items. New chrome chamfered bezels are available for Jaguar dials. If the TVR bezels are damaged at removal they can be replaced with a Jaguar part. I’ve just tried to keep my Griff dials looking original where possible and on a tiny budget. So many of them stick eventually, and it's getting the bezel off without butchering it that's the main problem.
RobXjcoupe said:
sixor8 said:
You'd have a secondary income I reckon, doing that to the analogue speedometers (Chimaeras and Cerberas too).
So many of them stick eventually, and it's getting the bezel off without butchering it that's the main problem.
The Griff and chimaera dials are just rehashed old Jaguar items. New chrome chamfered bezels are available for Jaguar dials. If the TVR bezels are damaged at removal they can be replaced with a Jaguar part. I’ve just tried to keep my Griff dials looking original where possible and on a tiny budget. So many of them stick eventually, and it's getting the bezel off without butchering it that's the main problem.
sixor8 said:
RobXjcoupe said:
sixor8 said:
You'd have a secondary income I reckon, doing that to the analogue speedometers (Chimaeras and Cerberas too).
So many of them stick eventually, and it's getting the bezel off without butchering it that's the main problem.
The Griff and chimaera dials are just rehashed old Jaguar items. New chrome chamfered bezels are available for Jaguar dials. If the TVR bezels are damaged at removal they can be replaced with a Jaguar part. I’ve just tried to keep my Griff dials looking original where possible and on a tiny budget. So many of them stick eventually, and it's getting the bezel off without butchering it that's the main problem.
Being greedy I think.
Polly Grigora said:
RobXjcoupe said:
That made me smile
You've got me smilingTotally agree lots of pointless morning meetings. Jaguar had far more management staff involved than the Ford equivalent.
Press shop production didn’t like toolroom boys telling them to hurry up as we need a line for try out. Press shop supervisors were a mixed ability bunch. Best meeting was a particular supervisor losing his s
te because he didn’t understand the engineering, basically stood up told everyone he was the only man in the room that could lift 250lb then stormed out?! Higher management were speechless and one of our toolmakers who was a big fella simply said he could lift 250lb but could we just make sure the panels numbers are completed for lunchtime so we could set our tools. 
Changed the bulb for the clock. Very subtle difference but worth it I think. Top picture uses a forward facing led bulb, 2nd picture uses a side facing led bulb which is a greener light also. Below shows the two versions of the bulb.
I think I can call it a day with the bulbs and dials now.
RobXjcoupe said:
Indeed but if they made them available repairs could be made elsewhere. I originally contacted Caerbont to buy a new temp gauge but they wasn’t interested, just want to sell me a new complete set of gauges.
Being greedy I think.
I'm a little surprised they would only sell a set. The individual gauges are in their catalogue (under Chimaera and Griff, they are the same):Being greedy I think.
https://www.smiths-instruments.co.uk/products/tvr-...
They also available with striped logo if required.
If a Chimaera or Griff analogue speed completely packs in, the digital ones don't have the oil & ignition warning lamps in so a new rev counter would be needed too. I asked...... They're £185 and £195 each respectively. Plus VAT and P+P no doubt.
sixor8 said:
RobXjcoupe said:
Indeed but if they made them available repairs could be made elsewhere. I originally contacted Caerbont to buy a new temp gauge but they wasn’t interested, just want to sell me a new complete set of gauges.
Being greedy I think.
I'm a little surprised they would only sell a set. The individual gauges are in their catalogue (under Chimaera and Griff, they are the same):Being greedy I think.
https://www.smiths-instruments.co.uk/products/tvr-...
They also available with striped logo if required.
If a Chimaera or Griff analogue speed completely packs in, the digital ones don't have the oil & ignition warning lamps in so a new rev counter would be needed too. I asked...... They're £185 and £195 each respectively. Plus VAT and P+P no doubt.
Always an interesting read when I see new posts in here.
We did have a conversation about interior work by email, but this may be useful to others:
I investigated my interior a bit better and my best estimate is that it was originally biscuit, but has been sprayed (with varied levels of attention) doeskin or magnolia. It comes off very quickly back to the original colour with cellulose thinners, so this has got me thinking about returning it and then patching what is left with more care and attention.
I have the early type seats with the flat base- would it just be straightforward forward to change to the later seat base style as part of a refurbishment? That said, I have tried a mx5 seat in place of the tvr one and it is so much better...
I expect I'm not alone in having a wrinkly dash: it's full leather an I expect it may have shrunk, is there a way to save it? I have wondered if it will relax with a feed?
My dials are also looking a bit battered (black rings) so it's good to see what can be done without resorting to new.
We did have a conversation about interior work by email, but this may be useful to others:
I investigated my interior a bit better and my best estimate is that it was originally biscuit, but has been sprayed (with varied levels of attention) doeskin or magnolia. It comes off very quickly back to the original colour with cellulose thinners, so this has got me thinking about returning it and then patching what is left with more care and attention.
I have the early type seats with the flat base- would it just be straightforward forward to change to the later seat base style as part of a refurbishment? That said, I have tried a mx5 seat in place of the tvr one and it is so much better...
I expect I'm not alone in having a wrinkly dash: it's full leather an I expect it may have shrunk, is there a way to save it? I have wondered if it will relax with a feed?
My dials are also looking a bit battered (black rings) so it's good to see what can be done without resorting to new.
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