1995 Griffith 500 restoration
Discussion
RobXjcoupe said:
A bit of an update.
I visited the car recently, freshly painted body now fitted to the chassis with all the running gear.
Body looks good, chassis looks good.
Dirty engine fitted back on brand new chassis, gearbox and diff in a similar condition. Was assured these items would be cleaned and looking good. Before strip down I actually asked to take these parts away to clean ready for the new chassis, was told it was part of the price so no need to take away. Was told too many hours involved to do that. Now wondering if gearbox,diff and engine have had an oil change as was originally told. My car also had a faulty alarm when dropped off. Again was told wouldn’t be an issue. No mention if this has or is going to be repaired or replaced.
Secondly I asked for my under cover twin lights to be fitted with deleted lower front main beam lamps. The front opening to be carefully opened up into a nice oval before paint. This was forgotten. So no front grille mod. Was told this could still be done. I said I wouldn’t want blended in paint on the front after a totally new paint job. So a 7” headlight upgrade was given as a sorry.
Lastly which is really bizarre is the interior. I said I would complete a new interior save the dash and windscreen surround. So both my front seats were stripped to component level?!
As a sorry they will fit my supplied new covering for the targa roof and fold down rear.
I’m gobsmacked. More so as I thought I’d chosen a competent specialist tvr garage to do the work.
The work on the chassis and body is good but both not what I originally asked for. I actually asked for a black chassis but got a white chassis.
Now I feel I need to hold my tongue to have the last bit of work completed so I can pick the car up and trailer away.
Sounds exactly what my experience of an alleged TVR specialist did to me. I visited the car recently, freshly painted body now fitted to the chassis with all the running gear.
Body looks good, chassis looks good.
Dirty engine fitted back on brand new chassis, gearbox and diff in a similar condition. Was assured these items would be cleaned and looking good. Before strip down I actually asked to take these parts away to clean ready for the new chassis, was told it was part of the price so no need to take away. Was told too many hours involved to do that. Now wondering if gearbox,diff and engine have had an oil change as was originally told. My car also had a faulty alarm when dropped off. Again was told wouldn’t be an issue. No mention if this has or is going to be repaired or replaced.
Secondly I asked for my under cover twin lights to be fitted with deleted lower front main beam lamps. The front opening to be carefully opened up into a nice oval before paint. This was forgotten. So no front grille mod. Was told this could still be done. I said I wouldn’t want blended in paint on the front after a totally new paint job. So a 7” headlight upgrade was given as a sorry.
Lastly which is really bizarre is the interior. I said I would complete a new interior save the dash and windscreen surround. So both my front seats were stripped to component level?!
As a sorry they will fit my supplied new covering for the targa roof and fold down rear.
I’m gobsmacked. More so as I thought I’d chosen a competent specialist tvr garage to do the work.
The work on the chassis and body is good but both not what I originally asked for. I actually asked for a black chassis but got a white chassis.
Now I feel I need to hold my tongue to have the last bit of work completed so I can pick the car up and trailer away.
I spoke to them about what I wanted done to my car for weeks before my car went to them to be clear and concise about what I wanted. Many agreements and promises made.
I typed out a long 'job sheet' and left a paper copy in the car AND emailed a copy to the 'specialist' office .
When I got the car back, many things were done I didn't ask for and things I did ask for weren't done. So many things in prior conversations where stated as being 'included'. Invoice seriously contradicted that. Fortunately, I have absolute proof of I was stated as being included.
I'm not directly naming said company because it's very likely to get legal.
Mighty Flex said:
Always an interesting read when I see new posts in here.
We did have a conversation about interior work by email, but this may be useful to others:
I investigated my interior a bit better and my best estimate is that it was originally biscuit, but has been sprayed (with varied levels of attention) doeskin or magnolia. It comes off very quickly back to the original colour with cellulose thinners, so this has got me thinking about returning it and then patching what is left with more care and attention.
I have the early type seats with the flat base- would it just be straightforward forward to change to the later seat base style as part of a refurbishment? That said, I have tried a mx5 seat in place of the tvr one and it is so much better...
I expect I'm not alone in having a wrinkly dash: it's full leather an I expect it may have shrunk, is there a way to save it? I have wondered if it will relax with a feed?
My dials are also looking a bit battered (black rings) so it's good to see what can be done without resorting to new.
This is just my opinion to possibly remove those wrinkles on the dash. Feed won’t work as the dash has technically been painted to recolour it and thus sealing the top of the leather. Feed would only soften the leather and wouldn’t remove the wrinkles. The process below would be used in conjunction with any leather softening.We did have a conversation about interior work by email, but this may be useful to others:
I investigated my interior a bit better and my best estimate is that it was originally biscuit, but has been sprayed (with varied levels of attention) doeskin or magnolia. It comes off very quickly back to the original colour with cellulose thinners, so this has got me thinking about returning it and then patching what is left with more care and attention.
I have the early type seats with the flat base- would it just be straightforward forward to change to the later seat base style as part of a refurbishment? That said, I have tried a mx5 seat in place of the tvr one and it is so much better...
I expect I'm not alone in having a wrinkly dash: it's full leather an I expect it may have shrunk, is there a way to save it? I have wondered if it will relax with a feed?
My dials are also looking a bit battered (black rings) so it's good to see what can be done without resorting to new.
First off the dash needs to be removed from the car.
Remove the glovebox lid also. This gives access to the leather tucked behind the dash panel. Using a heat gun, you need to warm up the leather to soften the glue. This will burn the sprayed on colour if it gets too hot.
Carefully pull the tucked over edges off the dash panel adjacent to the offending wrinkled area all the way to the wrinkled leather so you can get your fingers under the wrinkles.
All the time gently warming the leather to keep the old glue soft.
Now to remove the wrinkles you need to pull the leather left to right carefully without creating any bunching which will simply move the wrinkles to another part of the dash and at the same time stretch the leather back over the dash using fresh high temp contact adhesive to glue it all back in place. The stitched line around the glove box aperture is your guide to how much leather can be pulled down around the dash. Pull too hard and you have a wonky stitch line. To fit a new cover, you start with the stitched lines so it’s all straight and remove excess from the back of the dash. It’s not an easy job.
When complete you can prep the entire dash for a fresh recolour.
As the dash is out it also allows refurbishment of your dials, bulbs, switches etc
Harvy500 said:
RobXjcoupe said:
A bit of an update.
I visited the car recently, freshly painted body now fitted to the chassis with all the running gear.
Body looks good, chassis looks good.
Dirty engine fitted back on brand new chassis, gearbox and diff in a similar condition. Was assured these items would be cleaned and looking good. Before strip down I actually asked to take these parts away to clean ready for the new chassis, was told it was part of the price so no need to take away. Was told too many hours involved to do that. Now wondering if gearbox,diff and engine have had an oil change as was originally told. My car also had a faulty alarm when dropped off. Again was told wouldn’t be an issue. No mention if this has or is going to be repaired or replaced.
Secondly I asked for my under cover twin lights to be fitted with deleted lower front main beam lamps. The front opening to be carefully opened up into a nice oval before paint. This was forgotten. So no front grille mod. Was told this could still be done. I said I wouldn’t want blended in paint on the front after a totally new paint job. So a 7” headlight upgrade was given as a sorry.
Lastly which is really bizarre is the interior. I said I would complete a new interior save the dash and windscreen surround. So both my front seats were stripped to component level?!
As a sorry they will fit my supplied new covering for the targa roof and fold down rear.
I’m gobsmacked. More so as I thought I’d chosen a competent specialist tvr garage to do the work.
The work on the chassis and body is good but both not what I originally asked for. I actually asked for a black chassis but got a white chassis.
Now I feel I need to hold my tongue to have the last bit of work completed so I can pick the car up and trailer away.
Sounds exactly what my experience of an alleged TVR specialist did to me. I visited the car recently, freshly painted body now fitted to the chassis with all the running gear.
Body looks good, chassis looks good.
Dirty engine fitted back on brand new chassis, gearbox and diff in a similar condition. Was assured these items would be cleaned and looking good. Before strip down I actually asked to take these parts away to clean ready for the new chassis, was told it was part of the price so no need to take away. Was told too many hours involved to do that. Now wondering if gearbox,diff and engine have had an oil change as was originally told. My car also had a faulty alarm when dropped off. Again was told wouldn’t be an issue. No mention if this has or is going to be repaired or replaced.
Secondly I asked for my under cover twin lights to be fitted with deleted lower front main beam lamps. The front opening to be carefully opened up into a nice oval before paint. This was forgotten. So no front grille mod. Was told this could still be done. I said I wouldn’t want blended in paint on the front after a totally new paint job. So a 7” headlight upgrade was given as a sorry.
Lastly which is really bizarre is the interior. I said I would complete a new interior save the dash and windscreen surround. So both my front seats were stripped to component level?!
As a sorry they will fit my supplied new covering for the targa roof and fold down rear.
I’m gobsmacked. More so as I thought I’d chosen a competent specialist tvr garage to do the work.
The work on the chassis and body is good but both not what I originally asked for. I actually asked for a black chassis but got a white chassis.
Now I feel I need to hold my tongue to have the last bit of work completed so I can pick the car up and trailer away.
I spoke to them about what I wanted done to my car for weeks before my car went to them to be clear and concise about what I wanted. Many agreements and promises made.
I typed out a long 'job sheet' and left a paper copy in the car AND emailed a copy to the 'specialist' office .
When I got the car back, many things were done I didn't ask for and things I did ask for weren't done. So many things in prior conversations where stated as being 'included'. Invoice seriously contradicted that. Fortunately, I have absolute proof of I was stated as being included.
I'm not directly naming said company because it's very likely to get legal.
My better experience shows the non specialist that can restore any marque is the real specialist. Restoring parts rather than replace, modifying according to customer requirements noting any issues before commencing with any work.
Happy new year!
Been a while doing anything trev wise. So finished off the wiring ie shortening the loom to the fusebox.
Plugged battery in for a test and nowt. Plugged the alarm back in and nothing. Well the remotes are not doing anything. So my question is do my remotes need syncing with the alarm module?
The alarm module was sent away and came back with a good bill of health and an upgrade. The remotes were also checked and with new batteries work.
I found a rather simple method to sync the remotes which still didn’t do anything visually with the hazard lights but the starter then cranked the engine but no fuel pump prime. I could here a relay click on pause then click again. Presumably the fuel pump relay?
If I unplug the alarm module the starter doesn’t crank the engine. Plug alarm back in, starter works but no fuel pump????
I’ve checked and double checked my wiring and visually all corresponds with my pictures before and after. I literally shortened the loom one wire at a time so no mistakes were made.
Any ideas of how to sync my foxguard alarm would be a good start. A double check so to speak
Thanks in advance for any help
Been a while doing anything trev wise. So finished off the wiring ie shortening the loom to the fusebox.
Plugged battery in for a test and nowt. Plugged the alarm back in and nothing. Well the remotes are not doing anything. So my question is do my remotes need syncing with the alarm module?
The alarm module was sent away and came back with a good bill of health and an upgrade. The remotes were also checked and with new batteries work.
I found a rather simple method to sync the remotes which still didn’t do anything visually with the hazard lights but the starter then cranked the engine but no fuel pump prime. I could here a relay click on pause then click again. Presumably the fuel pump relay?
If I unplug the alarm module the starter doesn’t crank the engine. Plug alarm back in, starter works but no fuel pump????
I’ve checked and double checked my wiring and visually all corresponds with my pictures before and after. I literally shortened the loom one wire at a time so no mistakes were made.
Any ideas of how to sync my foxguard alarm would be a good start. A double check so to speak
Thanks in advance for any help
Dave at HF Solutions knows the Foxguard alarm well enough to have told me how to bypass the immobilising. https://www.hf-solutions.co.uk/TVR
I had problems with the starter motor not cranking, in fact zero response at all on the starter circuit, though the fuel pump primes every time.
I chose to bypass the starter motor circuit only, then discovered the previously installed 'hot start relay kit' was incorrectly wired and falling to bits, so I've made a couple of changes to that circuit with added fuses and an uprated relay on advice of the wonderful people on here - all can be uncovered on the latter pages of this thread https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I mention it because you might find the immobiliser relay inside the alarm has finally given up on your fuel circuit, and it's a simple bypass to test that bit - these wires are not covered in that thread, but you can PM me to find out.
I had problems with the starter motor not cranking, in fact zero response at all on the starter circuit, though the fuel pump primes every time.
I chose to bypass the starter motor circuit only, then discovered the previously installed 'hot start relay kit' was incorrectly wired and falling to bits, so I've made a couple of changes to that circuit with added fuses and an uprated relay on advice of the wonderful people on here - all can be uncovered on the latter pages of this thread https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I mention it because you might find the immobiliser relay inside the alarm has finally given up on your fuel circuit, and it's a simple bypass to test that bit - these wires are not covered in that thread, but you can PM me to find out.
PabloGee said:
Dave at HF Solutions knows the Foxguard alarm well enough to have told me how to bypass the immobilising. https://www.hf-solutions.co.uk/TVR
I had problems with the starter motor not cranking, in fact zero response at all on the starter circuit, though the fuel pump primes every time.
I chose to bypass the starter motor circuit only, then discovered the previously installed 'hot start relay kit' was incorrectly wired and falling to bits, so I've made a couple of changes to that circuit with added fuses and an uprated relay on advice of the wonderful people on here - all can be uncovered on the latter pages of this thread https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I mention it because you might find the immobiliser relay inside the alarm has finally given up on your fuel circuit, and it's a simple bypass to test that bit - these wires are not covered in that thread, but you can PM me to find out.
Thank you for the info. I had problems with the starter motor not cranking, in fact zero response at all on the starter circuit, though the fuel pump primes every time.
I chose to bypass the starter motor circuit only, then discovered the previously installed 'hot start relay kit' was incorrectly wired and falling to bits, so I've made a couple of changes to that circuit with added fuses and an uprated relay on advice of the wonderful people on here - all can be uncovered on the latter pages of this thread https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I mention it because you might find the immobiliser relay inside the alarm has finally given up on your fuel circuit, and it's a simple bypass to test that bit - these wires are not covered in that thread, but you can PM me to find out.
I have an original wired plug instead of the hot start mod. So I know that circuit is good. I can’t actually turn the alarm on/off. The starter turns though? Unplug the alarm main unit and no turning starter. Checked the fuel pump and ecu relays and they are good. So time to pm you I think
With a bit of help from some well drawn circuit diagrams the non working alarm and no fuel pump prime checked as zero power going to both items. Seems the spare fuse position according to my original TVR driver manual isn’t actually a spare fuse position. Popped said fuse in and the alarm came to life and in turn gave power to the fuel pump. I only looked at that because the supplied circuit diagrams showed two fuses were used for the alarm.
So I’m happy, my shortened main loom to the fusebox isn’t faulty which would have been a mammoth task to check.
Currently my modified battery box has now been removed to fibreglass over moved screw positions and then a coat of satin black and a new carpet outer as it was originally.
Feels like I’m moving forward again
So I’m happy, my shortened main loom to the fusebox isn’t faulty which would have been a mammoth task to check.
Currently my modified battery box has now been removed to fibreglass over moved screw positions and then a coat of satin black and a new carpet outer as it was originally.
Feels like I’m moving forward again
Not much to look at, battery box with a coat of satin black. Didn’t bother fitting carpet to the outside as it’s not seen bolted in position.
Also its a bit nippy in the garage currently and the wiring being moved around won’t do it any favours. I’ve ordered extra wiring components to run the heated seat circuits from the door switches to under the seats. Decided to use relays rather than let the switch take the current. Just thought a failed relay in the future will be easier to change than an obsolete Jaguar s-type heated seat switch
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