Clutch WTF !!!
Discussion
Clutch pedal gave up 
thought it was the slave cylinder so quick job & have a spare.
Changed and bleed (with the help of a not very happy Mrs S
) problem solved...
NOT
The pivot in the middle of the release arm has pushed a bl00dy hole in the arm !!!!
Anyone replaced the release arm via the inspection hole ?? Is it possible ??
Fervent prayer
thought it was the slave cylinder so quick job & have a spare. Changed and bleed (with the help of a not very happy Mrs S
) problem solved... NOT
The pivot in the middle of the release arm has pushed a bl00dy hole in the arm !!!!
Anyone replaced the release arm via the inspection hole ?? Is it possible ??
Fervent prayer
Edited by Seasider on Monday 3rd July 08:05
I was going to say its a case of TADTS Del, but it's the LT77 gearbox I know about.
The LT77 is used in Landrovers and it's a well known fault for this to happen. I suppose the clutch mechanism could well be the same with the newer BW gearbox too though.
Have a look at the thrust bearing too Del, on the 4.3 the body is made out of nylon apparently, and the release arm catches it on lugs which wear off. Mine went on the drive the day after Le Mans last year. It's very expensive to replace though, unlike the release arm.
Anyone having work done which involves taking out the gearbox should have a really good look at the indentation pressure points on that arm. It's cheap and easily replaced while the box is out so if there is any doubt over the wear its worth replacing it.
The LT77 is used in Landrovers and it's a well known fault for this to happen. I suppose the clutch mechanism could well be the same with the newer BW gearbox too though.
Have a look at the thrust bearing too Del, on the 4.3 the body is made out of nylon apparently, and the release arm catches it on lugs which wear off. Mine went on the drive the day after Le Mans last year. It's very expensive to replace though, unlike the release arm.
Anyone having work done which involves taking out the gearbox should have a really good look at the indentation pressure points on that arm. It's cheap and easily replaced while the box is out so if there is any doubt over the wear its worth replacing it.
s 
chassis 33 said:
These are pretty much the best pictures I've been able to find...
Cant see my ex dimple in that photo
So would the bell have to come off as well? or with the gearbox off would that be enough (just thinking about saving a bit of extra work and i have read it's easier to split the two for removal)
Del
p.s. looks like i might be using my parts & labour cover anyway
Basically so long as you can remove the input shaft from the friction plate enough to allow the arm to move through the gap you're ok...but the more space you get the better, cos the sliders on the release arm that hold the thrust bearing aren't held in securely and they are a right bastard to keep inplace while you move the arm onto its pivot and engage the spring clips!
Regards
Iain
Regards
Iain
I'm not terribly sure its worth it. TBH it seems like something of an unfortunate freak occurrence. My Chim had done 123k before it left the road to race, I've had the engine out a few times and not noted and wear at all in this region, and I believe it is still the original box etc.
The other question is how to strengthen it, presumable by welding extra material on the back, which once the original metal is worn away will give all sorts of anomalies with the pivot point and make for a rather unpredictable clutch action.
If it were my car I'd replace the clutch arm and pivot ball with new, make sure there is plenty of high temperature grease smeared around the pivot and leave it.
Regards
Iain
The other question is how to strengthen it, presumable by welding extra material on the back, which once the original metal is worn away will give all sorts of anomalies with the pivot point and make for a rather unpredictable clutch action.
If it were my car I'd replace the clutch arm and pivot ball with new, make sure there is plenty of high temperature grease smeared around the pivot and leave it.
Regards
Iain
Curiouser and curiouser!!! Although welding more material in may make the dimple more brittle. Very curious as to why it should fail like that other than just a weakness of design (but then there would be loads of examples out there surely), has the release bearing failed or something that would cause the clutch arm not to act on the centre of the dimple?
Regards
Iain
Regards
Iain
chassis 33 said:
Curiouser and curiouser!!! Although welding more material in may make the dimple more brittle. Very curious as to why it should fail like that other than just a weakness of design (but then there would be loads of examples out there surely), has the release bearing failed or something that would cause the clutch arm not to act on the centre of the dimple?
Regards
Iain
Regards
Iain
Nothing that i'm aware of. I think your correct about welding, leave well alone and smother in lube
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