running temperature

running temperature

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Edt

Original Poster:

5,104 posts

285 months

Sunday 14th September 2003
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Recently my 500 is running a little hotter than usual. What shall I hit with a big hammer ?

Ed


(hammer aside, would a full bleed be the 1st obvious step ?)

GreenV8S

30,231 posts

285 months

Sunday 14th September 2003
quotequote all
I think checking the water level would be the first step, and bleeding the rad would be the second step. Then start looking for a hammer.

Dan

1,068 posts

285 months

Monday 15th September 2003
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What is hotter than normal Ed??

I knocked me chin spoiler off a few weeks ago and have noticed in the recent hot spell 92-93 on the gauge, but the fans stll seem to be handling it.

Cheers Dan

P.S. sorry about the lack of contact re the web site, only the company went down the pan

scruffy

3,757 posts

262 months

Monday 15th September 2003
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My Griff used to run between 85-95, though the water leak didn't help, though when water tight, 92, according to the gauge. Though quite how good the gauge, as long as it's stably sensible IMHO.

Sorry about the company Dan...!!

Edt

Original Poster:

5,104 posts

285 months

Tuesday 16th September 2003
quotequote all
Yup also sorry Dan.. what you up to now?

Temperature... rarely went above (indicated) 90oC but recently creeping to 93/94 ish & the fans struggle to bring it back until the car gets up to speed again. Will invest in a bottle of Water Wetter (or is it t'other way round) next time passing Halfords

Ed

rude girl

6,937 posts

260 months

Tuesday 16th September 2003
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Mine sits at about 90 in warm weather - a bit less in the cool, but the fans are doing most of the work. Joolz and I thought we might have a bit of a mess about one weekend and see how we can best play with the airflow to bring it down a bit. I'll report back once the mighty J has done his stuff, but don't hold your breath - he's come back from hols to a packed schedule.

joospeed

4,473 posts

279 months

Tuesday 16th September 2003
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Damn . I was going to reply but you beat me to it.
yep rude's griff was stunning in france last two weeks, didn't overheat once, proving that if you have a cooling system in good condition you don't need any fancy gizmos to stop it overheating, if it's overheating there's a fault. However, the fans were controlling the temp on the otter switch, rather than airflow through the rad from ram effect, so need to look into channeling air straight into the rad and stop it leaking around the outside and bleeding back in front of the rad when stationary.

spend

12,581 posts

252 months

Tuesday 16th September 2003
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I padded gaps around radiator using pipe lagging from local DIY store - you can cut segments & stuff the cavities from behind the grill.

Also made splitter by cutting square guttering in 1/2 length wise, drilled + cut slots (as sacrificial weak points) then covered in tape. Est cost to be about £5 for 4 splitters!

Got carried away & 'lagged' some pipes in engine bay - but material seems to melt a bit from exhaust heat when loud pedal used :-)

Dave

Edt

Original Poster:

5,104 posts

285 months

Tuesday 16th September 2003
quotequote all
joospeed said:
Damn . I was going to reply but you beat me to it.
yep rude's griff was stunning in france last two weeks, didn't overheat once, proving that if you have a cooling system in good condition you don't need any fancy gizmos to stop it overheating, if it's overheating there's a fault. However, the fans were controlling the temp on the otter switch, rather than airflow through the rad from ram effect, so need to look into channeling air straight into the rad and stop it leaking around the outside and bleeding back in front of the rad when stationary.


When I'm on the move it's OK... its when sitting in traffic it gets above 90. In the good old days the twin fans usualy managed to keep it on 90, but now they're battling as hard as they can & it reaches a few degrees higher

regards
Ed

joospeed

4,473 posts

279 months

Tuesday 16th September 2003
quotequote all
sounds like you need a recore then on the rad .. by the time the temp reaches 90 odd deg it's way past thermostat opening time and the temp is being controlled off the fans and fan switch, you might find that the rad fins are blocked with dead leaves and insects, or that many of the fins are missing and either the fan airflow isn't as great as before, or it's as great but over a smaller effective working area, this coupled with hot air seeping back through to the front of the radiator would be enough to swing the balance - whilst ever the car is moving there's a supply of cold air to the rad anyway so teh fans would be shifting cold air over the rad, and then a small drop off in rad efficiency wouldn't be noticeable.

Dan

1,068 posts

285 months

Wednesday 17th September 2003
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Scruff, Ed, thanks for the comments, I'm waiting to here back from a co who made a conditional offer, will be in a couple of weeks tho

If that falls through I am thinking of becoming Angle Grinder Mans comedy sidekick "HACKSAW BOY!!!"

GreenV8S

30,231 posts

285 months

Wednesday 17th September 2003
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I've got a theory that when the cooling system has been filled with hard water the inside of the rad gets silted/limescaled up and reduces the effectiveness. It would only take a very thin layer of limescale to give a significant insulation effect. I've never tried it, but in theory flushing the rad out with descaler solution would fix this. Also its surprising how many people never bleed the radiator. The standard cooling system design has no mechanism to remove any gas bubbles that collect here, and they will gradually build up to form a gas pocket that will stay there indefinitely. If you're using the car in the summer it's worth bleeding the rad every few months.

RichB

51,703 posts

285 months

Wednesday 17th September 2003
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GreenV8S said:
I've got a theory that when the cooling system has been filled with hard water the inside of the rad gets silted/limescaled up
Pete, doesn't the anti-freeze have a limescale inhibitor? Rich...

FlipFlopGriff

7,144 posts

248 months

Wednesday 17th September 2003
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I've got a leak, currently under investigation, and topped up the water this morning following Steve Heaths instructions. It doesn't warn that when expoeeling the air and the water comes out it might force the bleed bolt out. What fun trying to get this back. Got it to the front of the mesh but it doesn't fit through. Had to bend the mesh and get my hand in.

Edt

Original Poster:

5,104 posts

285 months

Wednesday 17th September 2003
quotequote all
whilst tinkering last night looking for the bleed screw (falied) stumbled across a bleed pipe (????). Was about 12" long, tucked away by the n/s of the plenum, ending with a jubilee clip. I loosened this clip and coolant level rose in the front reservoir. Or is this something completely different ?

Regards
Ed

GreenV8S

30,231 posts

285 months

Wednesday 17th September 2003
quotequote all
This sounds like a blanked off throttle heater feed. But it's in exactly the right place to bleed air out of the top of the manifold so go for it! (Would have expected water in the swirl tank to go DOWN when air was bled out though.)

Edt

Original Poster:

5,104 posts

285 months

Wednesday 17th September 2003
quotequote all
ho ! Up it was... will play again tonight
Cheers Peter

regards
Ed

GreenV8S

30,231 posts

285 months

Wednesday 17th September 2003
quotequote all
Since the pipe will be higher than the swirl tank, you will need to have the engine running when you bleed it. Otherwise all you're doing is letting air into the system - which would explain the water level going up!

ROLFE

167 posts

253 months

Wednesday 17th September 2003
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Is the bleedscrew the large brass screw on the the top of the radiator? I have tried to bleed it from there but it appears to be all or nothing and if it comes out you loose all your water before you get the thing back in. If this isnt it were is it?

Edt

Original Poster:

5,104 posts

285 months

Thursday 18th September 2003
quotequote all
GreenV8S said:
Since the pipe will be higher than the swirl tank, you will need to have the engine running when you bleed it. Otherwise all you're doing is letting air into the system - which would explain the water level going up!


Well have had a further play.. plenty of air rose up from the front reservior. Then I let the car sit running for 10 mins as the fans cut in & out. Temp remained pretty steady so maybe it was as simple as that! Away for a few days now (going to Silverstone to watch the Autocar Sideways Challenge tomorrow!!) so will report early next week

Regards
Ed