uh-oh, now i've really done it...
Discussion
selbymsport said:
Hold on a minute, you had the output seals changed and now its leaking like crazy!! I think its best to back track to locate the problem. Who did the repair? where exactly is the oil coming from
1 output shaft seals
2 diff joint
3 output flange joint
4 crack in casing
5 other area not yet suspected
6 question? if it was ok before your repair, why is it leaking now? what has been disturbed? is it related? find the anwers to these questions before you part with your hard earned cash!!
Clean the car/engine let it stand and then insoect it if ok run engine but do not drive, then inspect again, if still no leak found, drive short distance then inspect again if still no leak found go to the pub for a few, and you will definately find a leak
right, on closer inspection the diff casing has split and this is causing the severe leak (it has others, but hey - it's a mini
) so I need a new box and I need to pay the garage chap to take the existing engine out and swop the new (soon to be purchased
) diff on to the old 'box and block...not ideal, but the exisiting gearbox was rebuilt in 2002 and the existing block has an MG head and a 286 kent cam in it so I'm loath to lose the extra urge.. for this job my man has quoted me £400 just for the labour...my friend (who is a mini guru) reckons on 6 hours work to take it out, swop the diff and put it back in again..what do you think? is this reasonable? he usually charges £20 per hour for cash
minimax said:
for this job my man has quoted me £400 just for the labour...my friend (who is a mini guru) reckons on 6 hours work to take it out, swop the diff and put it back in again..what do you think? is this reasonable? he usually charges £20 per hour for cash
Is he doing anything more than just refitting a complete gearbox and diff?
To put it in perspective, I just had the following done at Somerford:
- Time in 266 cam
- Refit distributor
- Supply and fit Luminition magnetronic ignition
- Remove and inspect gearbox
- Supply and fit oil pump
- Refit gearbox
- Fit cylinder head
- Set valve clearances
- Supply and fit all necessary gaskets
- Steam clean engine
Total bill: £300
Given that the cost of the Luminition kit is about £70, I'd say the labour cost was very reasonable indeed.
Edit to clarify: I'd say that the labour cost I paid was very reasonable - I would say that what you are being quoted is OTT.
>> Edited by miniman on Thursday 31st March 10:55
£400 sounds a bit steep to me.
6 hour seems about right, but I can have a word with F-in-L tonight - I can remember him saying it took him about 4-5 hours to remove a 'box from car, replace a (layshaft?) bearing, and refit... but that was his own car in his own time
He doesn't do work on the side anymore, but the garage he works at only charge £35/hr labour (and their loan car is a nice little BMW 318ti compact
)
6 hour seems about right, but I can have a word with F-in-L tonight - I can remember him saying it took him about 4-5 hours to remove a 'box from car, replace a (layshaft?) bearing, and refit... but that was his own car in his own time
He doesn't do work on the side anymore, but the garage he works at only charge £35/hr labour (and their loan car is a nice little BMW 318ti compact
)filmidget said:
£400 sounds a bit steep to me.
6 hour seems about right, but I can have a word with F-in-L tonight - I can remember him saying it took him about 4-5 hours to remove a 'box from car, replace a (layshaft?) bearing, and refit... but that was his own car in his own time
He doesn't do work on the side anymore, but the garage he works at only charge £35/hr labour (and their loan car is a nice little BMW 318ti compact
that would be good, thank you
minimax said:
Hold on a minute, you had the output seals changed and now its leaking like crazy!! I think its best to back track to locate the problem. Who did the repair? where exactly is the oil coming from
1 output shaft seals
2 diff joint
3 output flange joint
4 crack in casing
5 other area not yet suspected
6 question? if it was ok before your repair, why is it leaking now? what has been disturbed? is it related? find the anwers to these questions before you part with your hard earned cash!!
Clean the car/engine let it stand and then insoect it if ok run engine but do not drive, then inspect again, if still no leak found, drive short distance then inspect again if still no leak found go to the pub for a few, and you will definately find a leak
right, on closer inspection the diff casing has split and this is causing the severe leak (it has others, but hey - it's a mini
so I need a new box and I need to pay the garage chap to take the existing engine out and swop the new (soon to be purchased
for this job my man has quoted me £400 just for the labour...my friend (who is a mini guru) reckons on 6 hours work to take it out, swop the diff and put it back in again..what do you think? is this reasonable? he usually charges £20 per hour for cash
Are you sure the diff casing is split. Diff casings don't just split, unless they have been abused or have been fitted incorrectly. Early casings have a gasket between joint, later casings are sealed by compound only. As the gasket is .007" thickness this can be the source of a leak or sometimes a loose bearing in the diff housing which in turn causes a leak, have a good look to check it out
selbymsport said:
selbymsport said:
Hold on a minute, you had the output seals changed and now its leaking like crazy!! I think its best to back track to locate the problem. Who did the repair? where exactly is the oil coming from
1 output shaft seals
2 diff joint
3 output flange joint
4 crack in casing
5 other area not yet suspected
6 question? if it was ok before your repair, why is it leaking now? what has been disturbed? is it related? find the anwers to these questions before you part with your hard earned cash!!
Clean the car/engine let it stand and then insoect it if ok run engine but do not drive, then inspect again, if still no leak found, drive short distance then inspect again if still no leak found go to the pub for a few, and you will definately find a leak
right, on closer inspection the diff casing has split and this is causing the severe leak (it has others, but hey - it's a mini
so I need a new box and I need to pay the garage chap to take the existing engine out and swop the new (soon to be purchased
for this job my man has quoted me £400 just for the labour...my friend (who is a mini guru) reckons on 6 hours work to take it out, swop the diff and put it back in again..what do you think? is this reasonable? he usually charges £20 per hour for cash
Are you sure the diff casing is split. Diff casings don't just split, unless they have been abused or have been fitted incorrectly. Early casings have a gasket between joint, later casings are sealed by compound only. As the gasket is .007" thickness this can be the source of a leak or sometimes a loose bearing in the diff housing which in turn causes a leak, have a good look to check it out
the diff was not rebuilt IIRC only the 'box and internals, and I drive it hard all the time so I expect the bearing has indeed buggered up. the garage man said the diff pin had partially come out, and to be fair, I did notice gearchanges become a bit more difficult, coupled with a more pronounced transmission shunt on takeoff which I don't get when moving, probably because I take great car to match revs and double declutch at all times (anorak!) so it could well be knackered after taking that kind of abuse and putting 85BHP through a diff designed for 50BHP
it would help if I knew what I was looking for, I have no idea what the diff even looks like
damn my numptyness! 
coupled with no facilities or time to look at it and I guess I'm going to have to take the guys word for it...
F-in-L think 6 hours is about right, maybe a touch longer 'by the book'
Also, the gearbox (and engine) I have is only 55k miles! not 80k...
He thinks you would be better just swapping the whole box, rather than mess about trying to swap just the diff over (also something about matched pair - not sure now)
And regarding mechanical numptyness - found another spare gearbox that currently selects 2 gears at once - apparently all it needs is something realigning/tightening. You can have that as well if you fancy having a play...
Also, the gearbox (and engine) I have is only 55k miles! not 80k...
He thinks you would be better just swapping the whole box, rather than mess about trying to swap just the diff over (also something about matched pair - not sure now)
And regarding mechanical numptyness - found another spare gearbox that currently selects 2 gears at once - apparently all it needs is something realigning/tightening. You can have that as well if you fancy having a play...
filmidget said:
F-in-L think 6 hours is about right, maybe a touch longer 'by the book'
Also, the gearbox (and engine) I have is only 55k miles! not 80k...
He thinks you would be better just swapping the whole box, rather than mess about trying to swap just the diff over (also something about matched pair - not sure now)
And regarding mechanical numptyness - found another spare gearbox that currently selects 2 gears at once - apparently all it needs is something realigning/tightening. You can have that as well if you fancy having a play...
YHM
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