10 inch wheels
Discussion
I run S brakes on my 66, I'm also don't view brakes as an engineering taboo. I personally regard things like my welding better than the factory original. Meticulous is the name of the game, shaved metro callipers ARE SAFE, if you have a methodical split and check and reassemble of them. It's a matter of knowledge and care. I've seen a fiesta conversion and it looks very tidy and safe.
A question I asked myself when I sandblasted my S callipers was "how much meat is left between the gallery and the air?" They were made in 1966 and had "some surface rust". So I split them and had a look.
If you have a mate who is a competent engineer, a conversion like this often saves a large amount of money and in lots of cases is better. Trust me, pushing about 120mph, S brakes are a bit shit really.
I have also heard of a weeping void in a billet alloy calliper. You have to be safe, use the best materials and add excess scrutiny and care, especially if you drive it like a clown. It is about time that someone cast up some hubs which allows you to fit 2 callipers per wheel.
If you don't trust it, get your wallet out. When you buy some KAD brakes or special aftermarket stuff, all you are buying is a bodged together set of components. I don't advocate throwing pennies down the scrapper, using new components and carefully assembling them....job done.
Stu
A question I asked myself when I sandblasted my S callipers was "how much meat is left between the gallery and the air?" They were made in 1966 and had "some surface rust". So I split them and had a look.
If you have a mate who is a competent engineer, a conversion like this often saves a large amount of money and in lots of cases is better. Trust me, pushing about 120mph, S brakes are a bit shit really.
I have also heard of a weeping void in a billet alloy calliper. You have to be safe, use the best materials and add excess scrutiny and care, especially if you drive it like a clown. It is about time that someone cast up some hubs which allows you to fit 2 callipers per wheel.
If you don't trust it, get your wallet out. When you buy some KAD brakes or special aftermarket stuff, all you are buying is a bodged together set of components. I don't advocate throwing pennies down the scrapper, using new components and carefully assembling them....job done.
Stu
guru_1071 said:
stu
i doubt kad or the like will agree with their products been classed as 'bodged together' i know how much the cad engineering drawings, metalurgical tests and rigerous testing costs on some of the products work have made, particually the calipers.
still, its your life, i guess
i doubt kad or the like will agree with their products been classed as 'bodged together' i know how much the cad engineering drawings, metalurgical tests and rigerous testing costs on some of the products work have made, particually the calipers.
still, its your life, i guess
I'd say fiesta callipers from an auto parts store were equally sound. I agree, bodging is a bad idea but it is possible to create safe conversions. My 130mph garden tractor has metro front brakes
If you're going to 10" wheels, which is the best for any Mini, the original Cooper 'S' brakes are fine. The later hubs from the 8.4" brakes are the same as the 'S' so all you need are a pair of calipers, the drive flanges and a pair of new discs.
With regard to stopping power, the current carbon-metallic pads are totaly adequate for any road or race application. It's not correct the the original 'S' set-up is in any way lacking for high-speed applications as those of us involved in Historic motor sport, racing or rallying, have to use the original brakes and only pad material and brake fluid may be changed for up-rated specification.
I don't know where the mis-apprehension that 4-pot calipers or other fancy mods are necessary to stop a Mini comes from. Maybe it's the manufacturers of those kits who want to make more profit.
My 'S' brakes still work when the discs are glowing red!
With regard to stopping power, the current carbon-metallic pads are totaly adequate for any road or race application. It's not correct the the original 'S' set-up is in any way lacking for high-speed applications as those of us involved in Historic motor sport, racing or rallying, have to use the original brakes and only pad material and brake fluid may be changed for up-rated specification.
I don't know where the mis-apprehension that 4-pot calipers or other fancy mods are necessary to stop a Mini comes from. Maybe it's the manufacturers of those kits who want to make more profit.
My 'S' brakes still work when the discs are glowing red!
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