Mini City 1293

[Fatboy]

Good News, be sure to post up the dyno results

[Mini_Lund]

Had the mini tuned on the Dyno, here are the power graphs and a short video of the rolling road.
Are they respectable figures? I have nothing to compare too!

She was up on torque, think it was 112lbf·ft









ETA: Video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Vf0caOi88Y

Edited by Mini_Lund on Saturday 31st July 12:47

[Fatboy]

Looking very good there, congratulations!

Sounds really good too (what you could hear over the fan :-))

[pistonring]

112lbs ft of Torque!! Bloody hell that's impressive

[Cooperman]

Excellent figures. That should drive really well on the road. It's quite a wide torque band as well which will make it great in traffic or very twisty roads.
Well done that man!

[Mini_Lund]

Cooperman said:

Excellent figures. That should drive really well on the road. It's quite a wide torque band as well which will make it great in traffic or very twisty roads.
Well done that man!

Cheers Pete, the figures do speak for themselves. However, in all honesty I'm not overly impressed. On harsh acceleration, in 3rd gear, changing to 4th, it will bog down and slow. I'm guessing that its just how the SU over fuels as the needle flys up then the fuelling settles? It also wants to pull left and right when pushing it, I'm guessing thats the torque? Switched the engine off after a good drive last night and I got abit of run-on; engine kick started itself again. The idle speed is set at 750rpm, the idler gears chatter abit.

What are your thoughts?

[GTRMikie]

Mini_Lund said:

What are your thoughts?

Did the rolling road guy set your engine up or just do the power runs? It sounds like you need it set up on a rolling road by an A series guru like AC Dodds. There could be even more power available!

[Mini_Lund]

GTRMikie said:

Mini_Lund said:

What are your thoughts?

Did the rolling road guy set your engine up or just do the power runs? It sounds like you need it set up on a rolling road by an A series guru like AC Dodds. There could be even more power available!

It was set-up. The timing was apparently spot on at 8degrees, but he did mention that it started advancing a tad early, but seemed no problem. The needle was inspected, and I'm sure he adjusted the profile a little as it was worn. BGJ needle I think it was. He did say the needle was alright for the vehicle specifications, but no needle swap or bob weights were changed.

I'm just not overly impressed, as I expected a little more power. Shes lumpy at idle, but I'm still unsure as to what the cam is as it didn't have a part number on. It did look like a standard MG one though.

He advised I tried to source a 2" carburettor off of the 2litre Austin Princess, for abit more power.

...Still not quite there

[minipete]

Sounds like you could do with a second opinion on the tune up,everytime i`ve had mine on the rollers,theres always a differance.It shouldn`t bog down if its been set up correctly.As for the carb,are you using a HIF44?This should be fine on a mildly tuned 1293,i ran one on my 1380 and never had any fuelling problems and that was rollered at around 100bhp at the wheels.Thats a rough 100bhp!

[Mini_Lund]

minipete said:

Sounds like you could do with a second opinion on the tune up,everytime i`ve had mine on the rollers,theres always a differance.It shouldn`t bog down if its been set up correctly.As for the carb,are you using a HIF44?This should be fine on a mildly tuned 1293,i ran one on my 1380 and never had any fuelling problems and that was rollered at around 100bhp at the wheels.Thats a rough 100bhp!

I'll ask AC over on ML Motorsport, see what he has to say.

Cheers guys

[minipete]

Would be a good bet,if he can re profile your needle it could make all the differance.

[GTRMikie]

minipete said:

if he can re profile your needle

AC is THE man for reprofiling needles.

[Mini_Lund]

Unfortunately AC's guess is as good as any. He suggested using a BBA as a starting point and going from there.

'The flat spot after changing gears is the piston damper. You need to fit an LZX 2085 this will cure that issue.'

Need to find somewhere reasonably locally that is mini friendly and does needle re-profiling on a rolling road setup. I'm on the brink of throwing in the towel. This car has never been quite right for me and I'd hoped this engine build would perform and see me through...

[Mini1275]

Mini_Lund said:

There's something missing. I know the sill strip isn't on in the photo, but I have since put it back on. Its just not quite there...

Really?, looks a very nice mini to me. I always say the key to having a good looking mini is not over doing it. Again, lovely car

[FWDRacer]

Tom - not being funny - but your rolling road man sounds like he doesn't know his arse from his elbow.

Car bogging down on the road? This isn't at all right - and 2" Princess Carbs? Sorry - this is dark ages tuning mentality. Somebody that is churning out bullsh*t.

Get the car down to somebody that knows there A-series onions before you bore wash the engine and screw it up. It sounds like it is very rich in the mid range (big torque) and weak as p!ss just on/off idle - hence the over run. It isn't making 80bhp, I doubt the top end of the needle is anywhere near correct - this sort of output should be easily achived on your spec. An overly lean A-series will run on considerably when stinking hot - but a well set-up tuned unit shouldn't run on after a normal drive. Sorry - the alarm bells are ringing a bit.

PM me if you need a recommendation - the car has all the ingredients - it is just the fine tuning left. This will be a great car when set-up properly.

[Mini_Lund]

FWDRacer said:

Tom - not being funny - but your rolling road man sounds like he doesn't know his arse from his elbow.

Car bogging down on the road? This isn't at all right - and 2" Princess Carbs? Sorry - this is dark ages tuning mentality. Somebody that is churning out bullsh*t.

Get the car down to somebody that knows there A-series onions before you bore wash the engine and screw it up. It sounds like it is very rich in the mid range (big torque) and weak as p!ss just on/off idle - hence the over run. It isn't making 80bhp, I doubt the top end of the needle is anywhere near correct - this sort of output should be easily achived on your spec. An overly lean A-series will run on considerably when stinking hot - but a well set-up tuned unit shouldn't run on after a normal drive. Sorry - the alarm bells are ringing a bit.

PM me if you need a recommendation - the car has all the ingredients - it is just the fine tuning left. This will be a great car when set-up properly.

I really can't agree more. I've been recommended a place down in Hawarden Deeside, spoke to the guy yesterday on the phone, sent an email with all my specs over, just waiting to hear from him. I wouldn't mind finding out your recommendations too, as that may be of help. The only other, far less viable option, would be to trailor down to ML Motorsport in Kent.

Cheers FWD, I needed to hear that - just the fine tuning left!

[FWDRacer]

Tom - It is a very long (but enjoyable) drive to the Cotswalds. Go and see Ralph at Pitstop - the needle will be hand fettled and bespoke - he will get the very most out of your package - the car will sing afterwards. He is ex-Oselli engineering.

[Mini_Lund]

FWDRacer said:

Tom - It is a very long (but enjoyable) drive to the Cotswalds. Go and see Ralph at Pitstop - the needle will be hand fettled and bespoke - he will get the very most out of your package - the car will sing afterwards. He is ex-Oselli engineering.

I have considered doing exactly this, but I'm going to try AB garage in Hawarden, Deeside as its a little closer to home. I have been recommended this garage by a fellow mini nut who has also had his car setup there. I'll book it in for ASAP and let you know how I get on.

On another note, I'm still not so sure about this drilled thermostat. The heater blows warm for the first few seconds, then cold from there on after. I have ran the engine without the cap on for a few minutes, but this hasn't cured the problem. The heater worked great with the old engine, so I'm a little suspect. Does the thermostat really require 4 holes to compensate for the lack of the bypass? The weather hasn't been great as of late, should I pop the thermostat out of the 850 in?

Edited by Mini_Lund on Monday 9th August 12:29

[guru_1071]

tom

dont bother going to little no mark garages who see a mini once every blue moon.

take it to a recognised rolling road that does a lot of minis AND su tuning.

you probably wont go wrong taking it to minisport - they are probably nearest to you and ive never heard a bad word said about Rob who runs the rollers.

i always use mick at MBE, but he is in Lincoln, which is further away for you.

...a 2" princess carb! - at this point i would have stopped listening to the 'expert' who spouted that particular gem!!! :0

[GTRMikie]

Mini_Lund said:

On another note, I'm still not so sure about this drilled thermostat. The heater blows warm for the first few seconds, then cold from there on after. I have ran the engine without the cap on for a few minutes, but this hasn't cured the problem. The heater worked great with the old engine, so I'm a little suspect. Does the thermostat really require 4 holes to compensate for the lack of the bypass? The weather hasn't been great as of late, should I pop the thermostat out of the 850 in?

Edited by Mini_Lund on Monday 9th August 12:29

I tried a drilled thermostat on one of my 1275 engines some time ago, and the engine took forever to warm up. I now run with a thermostat in my 1275 and 1303 AC Dodd built engines, but I leave the heater valve open to act as the bypass. As long as the heater "flap" is closed and the fan is off, I have no problems with heat in the cabin. Also it sounds like you may have an air lock in the heater.