Spax 'n' HiLos
Discussion
Nah that bolt screws into the space between the top of the tower and the cone surely?
Was it like it before?
My guess is that the top tower mount has gone meaning that the tower is closer to the underneath of the bulkhead than it should be meaning there is a gap between the underneath of the bolt and the top of the bulkhead if you see what I mean.
Was it like it before?
My guess is that the top tower mount has gone meaning that the tower is closer to the underneath of the bulkhead than it should be meaning there is a gap between the underneath of the bolt and the top of the bulkhead if you see what I mean.
) Cant seem to find a diagram of the suspension.
The knuckle goes into the trumpet and then fits into the bottom of the cone. The cone then sits under compression between the inside top of the tower and the trumpet. This is what gives the spring.
The other side of the tower (the side the body sits on) has nothing but a mount between the tower and the body.
The big bolt slides through the hole in the body and tightens the body to the subframe (easier to look at it as a body that sits on two subframes rather than two subframes that attach to the body).
I am almost convinced that its the tower mount though I dont understand how its moved. Either way its a good idea to replace the standard ones with either deflex or solid ones...
The knuckle goes into the trumpet and then fits into the bottom of the cone. The cone then sits under compression between the inside top of the tower and the trumpet. This is what gives the spring.
The other side of the tower (the side the body sits on) has nothing but a mount between the tower and the body.
The big bolt slides through the hole in the body and tightens the body to the subframe (easier to look at it as a body that sits on two subframes rather than two subframes that attach to the body).
I am almost convinced that its the tower mount though I dont understand how its moved. Either way its a good idea to replace the standard ones with either deflex or solid ones...
You don't need to remove the tank to get at the LH damper. Remove the rear seat squab and cut a hole approx 4" x 3.5" in the vertical panel. Be careful not to drill through the tank! Fikle the edges of the hole smooth so you don't get more 'Mini Spanner Rash'
You can then get a spanner onto the damper top nuts.
Finally cut an aluminium plate to cover the hole and fit using 4 self-tappers with some bathroon sealer around the edge.
Then you'll always be able to change both dampers in a few minutes per side. This is done on all rally cars so that broken dampers can be changed at service points very quickly.
If anyone wants the position of the hole, let me know and I'll measure mine.
You can then get a spanner onto the damper top nuts.
Finally cut an aluminium plate to cover the hole and fit using 4 self-tappers with some bathroon sealer around the edge.
Then you'll always be able to change both dampers in a few minutes per side. This is done on all rally cars so that broken dampers can be changed at service points very quickly.
If anyone wants the position of the hole, let me know and I'll measure mine.
Took it all apart again tonight. At least I now have it down to 40 minutes from wheel off to wheel on again 
However, it's no better. I measured the depth of the hole with an old aerial and the distance from the bolt head down to the hi-lo is about 2 inches longer than the bolt, so it's not bottoming out.
I'm thinking I might just shim it with a couple of extra washers. Opinions?
However, it's no better. I measured the depth of the hole with an old aerial and the distance from the bolt head down to the hi-lo is about 2 inches longer than the bolt, so it's not bottoming out.
I'm thinking I might just shim it with a couple of extra washers. Opinions?
Just a thought...you do have the rubber pad between the top of the subframe tower and the body? It's a "pointy oval" shape and is fairly thick.
If you haven't done so already a set of nylon, or solid metal spacers makes a world of difference to the handing of mini's with rubber mounted subframes. The amount the the subframe moves around is quite scary, even with non-knackered rubber bits. With the car staionary, try turning the steering wheel side to side as you watch the engine...
If you haven't done so already a set of nylon, or solid metal spacers makes a world of difference to the handing of mini's with rubber mounted subframes. The amount the the subframe moves around is quite scary, even with non-knackered rubber bits. With the car staionary, try turning the steering wheel side to side as you watch the engine...
I bought and installed fully adjustable front and rear suspension last year.
I remember i to had some movement in that bolt (mine was drivers)
But i put it down to the fact i had also installed a solid sub-frame mounting kit (consists of ally spacers for front eyes and tower mounts)
and it hadnt settled yet + the fact its not recomended to tighten any suspension part till the car is on its wheels.
When i got back after a V slow short drive tightened all parts and play had gone.
I tell ya those ally mount kits are worth it!!!
I remember i to had some movement in that bolt (mine was drivers)
But i put it down to the fact i had also installed a solid sub-frame mounting kit (consists of ally spacers for front eyes and tower mounts)
and it hadnt settled yet + the fact its not recomended to tighten any suspension part till the car is on its wheels.
When i got back after a V slow short drive tightened all parts and play had gone.
I tell ya those ally mount kits are worth it!!!
Mr2Mike - I went and bought a pair of the rubber jobbys but found they were already there when I got home.
Dave - spot on, mate. Took it for a 5 minute spin and when I got back it was good and tight.
Only problem is now I can't get out of the estate because of the frikkin speed bumps!
Dave - spot on, mate. Took it for a 5 minute spin and when I got back it was good and tight.
Only problem is now I can't get out of the estate because of the frikkin speed bumps!
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