The need to jig
Discussion
Cooperman
Chris only had your work number so couldn't call you on Sat. Ill (if all goes to plan) be going back up there this weekend to collect, so you could if you want bring it along then.
I'm actually going up tomorrow as well to give Chris a new subframe and steering rack.
Its very tough to get a SPI subframe at the mo because British Motor Heritage decided there was more of a demand for cross members on midgets then front subframes on late minis?????
Thanks Cooperman Chris really is a person who's phone number you NEVER want to lose.
I couldn't believe how much he charges seeing as he has repaired restored and painted 250GTO's and lots of very expensive mini's.
You also know he is good when he has work coming out off his ears and has never spent a penny on advertising its all through word and mouth. I don't think many companies can do that.
So thanks again Cooperman I'm smiling in the fact that I know Chris is going to do a excellent job for a fair price.
Chris only had your work number so couldn't call you on Sat. Ill (if all goes to plan) be going back up there this weekend to collect, so you could if you want bring it along then.
I'm actually going up tomorrow as well to give Chris a new subframe and steering rack.
Its very tough to get a SPI subframe at the mo because British Motor Heritage decided there was more of a demand for cross members on midgets then front subframes on late minis?????
Thanks Cooperman Chris really is a person who's phone number you NEVER want to lose.
I couldn't believe how much he charges seeing as he has repaired restored and painted 250GTO's and lots of very expensive mini's.
You also know he is good when he has work coming out off his ears and has never spent a penny on advertising its all through word and mouth. I don't think many companies can do that.
So thanks again Cooperman I'm smiling in the fact that I know Chris is going to do a excellent job for a fair price.
Hi Dave, I'm sorry I missed you on saturday. The photo-shoot and interviews took until 4 pm. I suppose I should have expected this as there were two cars, my '64 'S' and Geoff's Clubman 1275 GT.
I've just been looking at your car and the sub-frame certainly needs changing. Once Chris has straightened out the floor and porta-powered the 'A' post back into place so that the door shuts properly it will be fine. it looks as though the wing will push back OK. So, no need to jig after all.
I'll bring the rally car around next saturday morning - please give me a projected time. My new acquisition, a 1991 Cooper 1275 carb model should also be there. i have just got this to prepare into a rally car for the new Enduro/1400 cc class. I don't know how competitive a later Cooper will be against things like Suzuki Swifts, Peugeot 106 Rallys and other 1400 cc cars, but I want to give it a good try. My intention is to create a build sheet and spec so that anyone wanting to get into rallying without it costing a small fortune can do so in a Mini. The Mini Shop will probably be able to offer a complete preparation kit 'out of the box' if enough Mini owners want to go rallying rather than bolting on chrome in fitting ICE (I know which I prefer!). It will be relatively inexpensive as you are only allowed a standard engine and transmission. It just needs careful and selective assembly to optimise the manufacturers tolerances.
Anyone else interested?
I've just been looking at your car and the sub-frame certainly needs changing. Once Chris has straightened out the floor and porta-powered the 'A' post back into place so that the door shuts properly it will be fine. it looks as though the wing will push back OK. So, no need to jig after all.
I'll bring the rally car around next saturday morning - please give me a projected time. My new acquisition, a 1991 Cooper 1275 carb model should also be there. i have just got this to prepare into a rally car for the new Enduro/1400 cc class. I don't know how competitive a later Cooper will be against things like Suzuki Swifts, Peugeot 106 Rallys and other 1400 cc cars, but I want to give it a good try. My intention is to create a build sheet and spec so that anyone wanting to get into rallying without it costing a small fortune can do so in a Mini. The Mini Shop will probably be able to offer a complete preparation kit 'out of the box' if enough Mini owners want to go rallying rather than bolting on chrome in fitting ICE (I know which I prefer!). It will be relatively inexpensive as you are only allowed a standard engine and transmission. It just needs careful and selective assembly to optimise the manufacturers tolerances.
Anyone else interested?
Dave, I meant to add that it seems as though your rear LH radius arm is bent slightly. Either that or your rear sub-frame has bent with the impact. Chris and I will jack the back up and take a really good look.
Before you have the car back we must check that the rear wheels are toeing-in between 2 mm and 4.5 mm. If the sub-frame is only very slighty out of line you can get away with filing the hole in the outer rad. arm bracket oval and welding a thick washer in place to hold the setting when you get it right. It's not too difficult and I was doing this on the Clubman GT rally car the sat before last. This now handles like a dream.
With your rear camber brackets it could be very simple. Let's have a look at this after the front is sortd.
Before you have the car back we must check that the rear wheels are toeing-in between 2 mm and 4.5 mm. If the sub-frame is only very slighty out of line you can get away with filing the hole in the outer rad. arm bracket oval and welding a thick washer in place to hold the setting when you get it right. It's not too difficult and I was doing this on the Clubman GT rally car the sat before last. This now handles like a dream.
With your rear camber brackets it could be very simple. Let's have a look at this after the front is sortd.
Hi Cooperman
If I had the money and space I would love to rally minis.
I used to race go-karts and talking to people who have raced minis and go-karts generally say that minis are cheaper to race once you have bought the car and prepared it.
But then I would have to find someware to keep it then buy a trailer and find somewhere to keep that!!!
I'll have to keep my fingers crossed for a huge compensation payout after a lorry driver tried to kill me with his wheel after he didn't to his nuts up properly!
One day perhaps.
When you do a rally down this way post the details as I would like to come down and watch.
My cars a bit of a mess at the mo isn't it!!
It used to be so clean and perfect but when you use minis as everyday transport they just don't stay that way, the engine used to be gleaming.
Once Chris has sorted the bodywork I'm going to get all that rust sorted maybe a full re-spray.
I'm going to change my final drive from a 3-1 to a 3-4
get all the suspension set up again and finally put in a set of those Corbeau Classics to stop me falling out of my seat.
Once all that's done I'm booking myself for a track day.
If I had the money and space I would love to rally minis.
I used to race go-karts and talking to people who have raced minis and go-karts generally say that minis are cheaper to race once you have bought the car and prepared it.
But then I would have to find someware to keep it then buy a trailer and find somewhere to keep that!!!
I'll have to keep my fingers crossed for a huge compensation payout after a lorry driver tried to kill me with his wheel after he didn't to his nuts up properly!
One day perhaps.
When you do a rally down this way post the details as I would like to come down and watch.
My cars a bit of a mess at the mo isn't it!!
It used to be so clean and perfect but when you use minis as everyday transport they just don't stay that way, the engine used to be gleaming.
Once Chris has sorted the bodywork I'm going to get all that rust sorted maybe a full re-spray.
I'm going to change my final drive from a 3-1 to a 3-4
get all the suspension set up again and finally put in a set of those Corbeau Classics to stop me falling out of my seat.
Once all that's done I'm booking myself for a track day.
Cooperman
Just seen the part you added.
That radius arm is definatly bent I'm just hoping the subframe isnt also bent.
I wasnt planning on doing that part untill the next pay packet but if you know of anywhere which is doing good deals on re-con arms I think I would be best of letting you guys do it.
Just seen the part you added.
That radius arm is definatly bent I'm just hoping the subframe isnt also bent.
I wasnt planning on doing that part untill the next pay packet but if you know of anywhere which is doing good deals on re-con arms I think I would be best of letting you guys do it.
Dave, I've got all the tools necessary to re-con the radius arms. Really all you need is a hammer and a 13/16" long reamer plus the repair kit. It's a lot cheaper than buying them exchange. Of course, if you want to change the rear bearings and brake cylinders at the same time it's up to you, but really all you need to find is a complete second hand dry suspension LH radius arm, and they have not changed since 1961, I believe. I will see if Chris has one spare as I don't think I have a 'dry' one and the hydro arms are different. Alternatively get one from a scrapper and I'll do it for you free-of-charge if you bring it up with you next Saturday with a repair kit. With a scrapper, or a second-hand arm without the backplate and bearings fitted you would need new wheel bearings -you can have the latest taper-roller bearings or the original type, they're not expensive, but don't forget the new seals as well'. In addition I guess you would be wise to have new cylinders as you don't want to take any chances with the braking system.
If you don't change this arm the car will not handle nicely and you'll scrub out your rear tyres quickly.
If you don't change this arm the car will not handle nicely and you'll scrub out your rear tyres quickly.
Cooperman
Thanks for the offer,I will get myself another radius arm for saturday.
I need to ask a few questions to be sure I know what I need
Whats a reamer?
Can you tell what bearings you have just by taking the hub nut off?
What does the repair kit consist off?
I'm not sure but I thought that the wheel bearings are contained in the hub so effectivly I can remove the hub change the arm and slide the hub back on again, is this correct?
Thanks for the offer,I will get myself another radius arm for saturday.
I need to ask a few questions to be sure I know what I need
Whats a reamer?
Can you tell what bearings you have just by taking the hub nut off?
What does the repair kit consist off?
I'm not sure but I thought that the wheel bearings are contained in the hub so effectivly I can remove the hub change the arm and slide the hub back on again, is this correct?
Dave,
Just bring a second-hand rad arm, a wheel bearing kit, a rad arm repair kit and leave the rest to me. I'll deliver a 'fittable' arm to Chris which we can fit and check the tracking of before you have the car back. It will only be a couple of hours of Chris' time as you can come up one Saturday and we'll do the fitting & tracking together, if you like. We might get it all done this Saturday if you have the time.
Just bring a second-hand rad arm, a wheel bearing kit, a rad arm repair kit and leave the rest to me. I'll deliver a 'fittable' arm to Chris which we can fit and check the tracking of before you have the car back. It will only be a couple of hours of Chris' time as you can come up one Saturday and we'll do the fitting & tracking together, if you like. We might get it all done this Saturday if you have the time.
Hello, first post!
DodgyDave, there is a place in Braintree called Chapel Hill Auto Body Care. They specialise in repairing and restoring Minis. Although I have never used them, I have been for a look round their workshop and have been very impressed. They have full bodyshop and painting facilities including a low-bake oven.
They have been comissioned to spray all sorts besides minis though, including doing a helicopter with a flip-flop pearlescent!
I'm not associated with them in any way - just thought it was somewhere fairly close who might be just what you're looking for.
Thanks,
Andy.
DodgyDave, there is a place in Braintree called Chapel Hill Auto Body Care. They specialise in repairing and restoring Minis. Although I have never used them, I have been for a look round their workshop and have been very impressed. They have full bodyshop and painting facilities including a low-bake oven.
They have been comissioned to spray all sorts besides minis though, including doing a helicopter with a flip-flop pearlescent!
I'm not associated with them in any way - just thought it was somewhere fairly close who might be just what you're looking for.
Thanks,
Andy.
No problem. Chris doesn't usually get into his workshop until about 10-30 on a Saturday, so I'll see you there some time after that. I'll bring my '64 car down and give you a trip. It's having its new Falken tyres on this evening so I need to scrub them in a bit before the next event.
The only thing that might stop me is if I catch the flu my wife currently has!
The only thing that might stop me is if I catch the flu my wife currently has!
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