Buying a 1990 Cooper
Discussion
Rear subframe (front is fine because its usually covered in oil)
Rust which will be pretty prevalent but check boot floor, radius arm mounting points and scuttle, oh and the sills.
Being a '90 it will probably be a carb car (I think) so nothing perculiar there either.
Anything else is general car stuff really, they shouldnt have too much trouble finding a decent 90 Cooper there were rather a lot of them...
>> Edited by Plotloss on Thursday 23 October 15:01
Rust which will be pretty prevalent but check boot floor, radius arm mounting points and scuttle, oh and the sills.
Being a '90 it will probably be a carb car (I think) so nothing perculiar there either.
Anything else is general car stuff really, they shouldnt have too much trouble finding a decent 90 Cooper there were rather a lot of them...
>> Edited by Plotloss on Thursday 23 October 15:01
I just bought a black one. It's fairly good bodywise, but needs a LH apex panel, possibly a new front panel and new ends to the scuttle panel.i.e. all the usual suspects. The gearbox is very stiff to change and I suspect a selector fork problem, but the engine and gearbox are coming out for a complete rebuild to the new 'Enduro' Rally regulations.
Chris Spennewyn will do the bodywork and I'll do everything else including the 'blueprinting' of the standard engine.
I paid £1200 for the complete car which has 100,000 miles on it. It is a carb version, so it doesn't need a cat. I'm hoping for around 80 bhp at the flywheel from the blueprinted engine.
Watch for a report on its progress in Mini Magazine next year.
Chris Spennewyn will do the bodywork and I'll do everything else including the 'blueprinting' of the standard engine.
I paid £1200 for the complete car which has 100,000 miles on it. It is a carb version, so it doesn't need a cat. I'm hoping for around 80 bhp at the flywheel from the blueprinted engine.
Watch for a report on its progress in Mini Magazine next year.
I wrote the following for a mate a while ago who knew nothing about mini's but wanted to get one. It's not fully comprehensive but is a pretty good checklist IMHO...
First up check all the following:
Check all bodywork:
- check paintwork all over - is it shiny still or dull in places
- stonechips?
- make a note of general dings around the car so you can guesstimate the cost of any potential repairs
- front and rear valences (small panels under the bumper line) - these are prone to rot
- inner & outer wings (front and rear) - you'll have to open the bonnet to check the fronts, the rear's you can check by looking up inside the wheel arch and from inside the boot
- a-panels (small panel between front wing and door) These also have an inner panel which you can only feel by sticking your arm up inside the fr wheel arch.
- door skins (tend to rot on bottom and on seams inside & out)
- front scuttle (panel between windscreen and bonnet that the water jets sit in) - v expensive to repair properly
- check all panel joins and seams for rusting (esp on front nr headlights and around doors, and all along seam where bumpers join car)
- check rear wings and main rear panel - r wings generally rot along bottom nr wheel arch
- squat down on each corner and look along the sides of the car at the panels for dents and alignment. Everything should be in alignment - dents will stick out like a sore thumb as will poorly fitting doors
- check gaps between panels are consistent (esp bonnet, doors and bootlid)
- if they're not it may point to a previous shunt
- get inside car and lift floor mats - check footwells for rust, give them a good knock and listen for hollowness.
At a basic level, all rot is bad and will cost money to replace.
It's just a ticking bomb in your wallet - however ALL Mini's rust so the main thing is to be happy that anything which needs repairing is the cheaper stuff and not the stuff which will cost you more than the car's worth!
Check underneath:
- front and rear subframes aren't rotting (especially at the point where they bolt onto the body work)
- jacking points should not be rotted - should be able to jack car up on both without problems
- sills - should be solid. Rot can be cured here but it's a good few hundred quid to do properly.
- floorpans should be solid and not rotting through. As above on costing.
- underside of battery box. Rot is bad.
- exhaust system from join at base of manifold all the way to the back box. Is it all on nice and tight? Is it blowing anywhere? Is it standard or modified? If modified what is it, who fitted it, when etc.
- has gearbox casing been "grounded out" i.e. it
should be ridged - has it been scraped, dented badly?
- has car been waxoyled or treated for water protection
underneath? - if so when and by whom? this is usually a good sign that the owner is taking care of it and is aware of the need for good rust protection
Check engine bay:
- look for leaks in general - follow all hoses and see if there are any leaks along them or at joins
- check gaskets aren't leaking
- leaks around oil filter and/or housing?
- check oil return pipe joints
- take oil filler cap off and check for "milkyness" on
underside of filler cap
- check coolant levels
- check general state of engine bay
- look down at the front of the engine bay at the structural bits - are they all in alignment, any dents/accident damage?
Check boot (some kitchen roll or a rag will be useful for this bit to check for moisture in hard to reach places):
- check boot floor for rust, especially in the battery box (take it out to look properly) and at the seams around the edge. Check for water penetration. Rust here is expensive to correct.
- take spare tyre out and check tyre well for rust/water penetration - as above, rust and water in here is bad.
- feel underneath and behind the petrol tank for moisture and rot. As above.
- feel down the gap between the back of the seat and the boot floor for moisture. As above.
- check general state of bootlid for rust - check on the inside where the number plate bolts on (prime rusting spot if no rubber grommets/seals have been used)
- get the jack out and make sure it works
- if the car has locking wheel nuts check you have the
"key" nut for them (usually stored in jack bag)
Basically a little moisture may occur thru condensation but if the boot feels damp or is swimming, walk away.
Tyres/Wheels:
- check tread - is wear even? are all 5 wheels legal?
- do they look in alignment.
- if possible jack the car up and check wheel bearings by grasping the wheel on each side and trying to move it against the hub
- are the wheels in decent nick or have they been curbed badly
- if it has wheel trims take them off and have a good look
- are wheelnuts on tight? if locking do you have a "key"... and does the key fit ALL the nuts!?!?
Interior:
- general appearance
- check for moisture under floor mats (front and rear) and in rear storage bins (can be a sign of rust from inner wings on rear if they're damp)
- check headlining for moisture and general condition (don't forget to look under the sun visors as they're often cr@ppy underneath)
- check condition of seatbelts (no tears, knicks etc) - check the inertia reels work (i.e. do they lock when tugged sharply and do they reel-in when you release them?)
Electrics:
- check everything and have someone else stand outside the car to make sure everything you're doing corresponds with what it's supposed to...
- radio
- wipers
- headlights (dipped and full beam)
- sidelights
- indicators
- brake lights
- reversing light
- fog light(s)
- interior light
- dash illumination (for night driving)
- heater
- fan
- horn
- any after-mkt items
Time to start the thing up!
Always start it from cold - if the engine is hot, wait until it's cooled down because you won't be able to check everything if it's already been run.
- does engine warm up ok
- how much choke does it need (if auto-choke, check that after engine reaches running temp it switches itself off (revs will drop))
- check engine idle speed - should be regular and approx 1k rpm
- check for blue smoke from exhaust (suggests burning oil in petrol mix)
- listen for tapping
- drive it in each gear... go from right down the bottom end of the revs up until its revving well in each gear then take your foot off the accellerator and check that revs drop off naturally and progressively.
Check also the travel of the gear stick when you do this - does it jump around? A little bit of play is natural (as the gear linkage will move with the engine) but lots of movement suggests engine
bushes/mounts may need replacing.
- check clutch (does engine hold revs or is clutch
slipping/juddering?) A good test is stick it in first gear, put the handbrake on and gently lift the clutch to the biting point and past it almost to the point
of stalling - car should pull hard against the handbrake and not slip on the
clutch.
- on test drive have someone follow you in another car - does the one you're driving "crab" i.e. is it travelling straight down the road or does it appear to be moving slightly sideways? (this often happens
when subframes are out of alignment or if the car's had a shunt and the body's bent.
- at approx 20 and 50 mph check the brakes - find a straight, flat bit of road, loosen your grip on the wheel and brake progressively - does it pull to either side? If so have brakes, tracking and wheel balances
checked out
- is steering response good? at slow speed and at motorway cruising - do you get excess "speed wobble" through the steering column? might indicate worn bearings.
Check the paperwork:
- MOT's consistent with miles? Do all numbers add up (i.e. VIN numbers, dates etc.)
- V5 consistent with VIN?
- Full Service History? Who with? Main dealers, specialists or "my mate"?
- Ask owner what work has been carried out, what parts have been upgraded/replaced - then look at receipts for what's been done - does this tally with what you've been told about the car?
- Call previous owner if it makes you more comfortable - ask them about the history from when they had it.
Lastly, ask if it has ever been crashed, used on a track etc.
If it has ever had a shunt, no matter how small (unless parking dents), I would walk away as there are loads of good un-stacked mini's out there.
Enough to be going on with??
First up check all the following:
Check all bodywork:
- check paintwork all over - is it shiny still or dull in places
- stonechips?
- make a note of general dings around the car so you can guesstimate the cost of any potential repairs
- front and rear valences (small panels under the bumper line) - these are prone to rot
- inner & outer wings (front and rear) - you'll have to open the bonnet to check the fronts, the rear's you can check by looking up inside the wheel arch and from inside the boot
- a-panels (small panel between front wing and door) These also have an inner panel which you can only feel by sticking your arm up inside the fr wheel arch.
- door skins (tend to rot on bottom and on seams inside & out)
- front scuttle (panel between windscreen and bonnet that the water jets sit in) - v expensive to repair properly
- check all panel joins and seams for rusting (esp on front nr headlights and around doors, and all along seam where bumpers join car)
- check rear wings and main rear panel - r wings generally rot along bottom nr wheel arch
- squat down on each corner and look along the sides of the car at the panels for dents and alignment. Everything should be in alignment - dents will stick out like a sore thumb as will poorly fitting doors
- check gaps between panels are consistent (esp bonnet, doors and bootlid)
- if they're not it may point to a previous shunt
- get inside car and lift floor mats - check footwells for rust, give them a good knock and listen for hollowness.
At a basic level, all rot is bad and will cost money to replace.
It's just a ticking bomb in your wallet - however ALL Mini's rust so the main thing is to be happy that anything which needs repairing is the cheaper stuff and not the stuff which will cost you more than the car's worth!
Check underneath:
- front and rear subframes aren't rotting (especially at the point where they bolt onto the body work)
- jacking points should not be rotted - should be able to jack car up on both without problems
- sills - should be solid. Rot can be cured here but it's a good few hundred quid to do properly.
- floorpans should be solid and not rotting through. As above on costing.
- underside of battery box. Rot is bad.
- exhaust system from join at base of manifold all the way to the back box. Is it all on nice and tight? Is it blowing anywhere? Is it standard or modified? If modified what is it, who fitted it, when etc.
- has gearbox casing been "grounded out" i.e. it
should be ridged - has it been scraped, dented badly?
- has car been waxoyled or treated for water protection
underneath? - if so when and by whom? this is usually a good sign that the owner is taking care of it and is aware of the need for good rust protection
Check engine bay:
- look for leaks in general - follow all hoses and see if there are any leaks along them or at joins
- check gaskets aren't leaking
- leaks around oil filter and/or housing?
- check oil return pipe joints
- take oil filler cap off and check for "milkyness" on
underside of filler cap
- check coolant levels
- check general state of engine bay
- look down at the front of the engine bay at the structural bits - are they all in alignment, any dents/accident damage?
Check boot (some kitchen roll or a rag will be useful for this bit to check for moisture in hard to reach places):
- check boot floor for rust, especially in the battery box (take it out to look properly) and at the seams around the edge. Check for water penetration. Rust here is expensive to correct.
- take spare tyre out and check tyre well for rust/water penetration - as above, rust and water in here is bad.
- feel underneath and behind the petrol tank for moisture and rot. As above.
- feel down the gap between the back of the seat and the boot floor for moisture. As above.
- check general state of bootlid for rust - check on the inside where the number plate bolts on (prime rusting spot if no rubber grommets/seals have been used)
- get the jack out and make sure it works
- if the car has locking wheel nuts check you have the
"key" nut for them (usually stored in jack bag)
Basically a little moisture may occur thru condensation but if the boot feels damp or is swimming, walk away.
Tyres/Wheels:
- check tread - is wear even? are all 5 wheels legal?
- do they look in alignment.
- if possible jack the car up and check wheel bearings by grasping the wheel on each side and trying to move it against the hub
- are the wheels in decent nick or have they been curbed badly
- if it has wheel trims take them off and have a good look
- are wheelnuts on tight? if locking do you have a "key"... and does the key fit ALL the nuts!?!?
Interior:
- general appearance
- check for moisture under floor mats (front and rear) and in rear storage bins (can be a sign of rust from inner wings on rear if they're damp)
- check headlining for moisture and general condition (don't forget to look under the sun visors as they're often cr@ppy underneath)
- check condition of seatbelts (no tears, knicks etc) - check the inertia reels work (i.e. do they lock when tugged sharply and do they reel-in when you release them?)
Electrics:
- check everything and have someone else stand outside the car to make sure everything you're doing corresponds with what it's supposed to...
- radio
- wipers
- headlights (dipped and full beam)
- sidelights
- indicators
- brake lights
- reversing light
- fog light(s)
- interior light
- dash illumination (for night driving)
- heater
- fan
- horn
- any after-mkt items
Time to start the thing up!
Always start it from cold - if the engine is hot, wait until it's cooled down because you won't be able to check everything if it's already been run.
- does engine warm up ok
- how much choke does it need (if auto-choke, check that after engine reaches running temp it switches itself off (revs will drop))
- check engine idle speed - should be regular and approx 1k rpm
- check for blue smoke from exhaust (suggests burning oil in petrol mix)
- listen for tapping
- drive it in each gear... go from right down the bottom end of the revs up until its revving well in each gear then take your foot off the accellerator and check that revs drop off naturally and progressively.
Check also the travel of the gear stick when you do this - does it jump around? A little bit of play is natural (as the gear linkage will move with the engine) but lots of movement suggests engine
bushes/mounts may need replacing.
- check clutch (does engine hold revs or is clutch
slipping/juddering?) A good test is stick it in first gear, put the handbrake on and gently lift the clutch to the biting point and past it almost to the point
of stalling - car should pull hard against the handbrake and not slip on the
clutch.
- on test drive have someone follow you in another car - does the one you're driving "crab" i.e. is it travelling straight down the road or does it appear to be moving slightly sideways? (this often happens
when subframes are out of alignment or if the car's had a shunt and the body's bent.
- at approx 20 and 50 mph check the brakes - find a straight, flat bit of road, loosen your grip on the wheel and brake progressively - does it pull to either side? If so have brakes, tracking and wheel balances
checked out
- is steering response good? at slow speed and at motorway cruising - do you get excess "speed wobble" through the steering column? might indicate worn bearings.
Check the paperwork:
- MOT's consistent with miles? Do all numbers add up (i.e. VIN numbers, dates etc.)
- V5 consistent with VIN?
- Full Service History? Who with? Main dealers, specialists or "my mate"?
- Ask owner what work has been carried out, what parts have been upgraded/replaced - then look at receipts for what's been done - does this tally with what you've been told about the car?
- Call previous owner if it makes you more comfortable - ask them about the history from when they had it.
Lastly, ask if it has ever been crashed, used on a track etc.
If it has ever had a shunt, no matter how small (unless parking dents), I would walk away as there are loads of good un-stacked mini's out there.
Enough to be going on with??
Blimey that was long, incidentally he might be interested in this which I saw on the Miniworld Mini Trader site...
www.adzcollect.com/default.asp?pubid=1151.
www.adzcollect.com/default.asp?pubid=1151.
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