3.9i into Defender
Discussion
Try and mount the ECU somewhere cool (drivers seat box ideal), with the connector being the lowest point. This means external moisture will tend to drip off rather than accumulate.
For air box won't the standard RR metal cylinder type fit somewhere? Be sure to get a good cold air supply to the air box.
Oily cone filters don't do the MAF element any favours if over-oiled.
If in doubt use OEM.
For air box won't the standard RR metal cylinder type fit somewhere? Be sure to get a good cold air supply to the air box.
Oily cone filters don't do the MAF element any favours if over-oiled.
If in doubt use OEM.
wheelbarrowman said:
I have a tdci seatbox, the ECU just sits inside it.
I have 110 so fuel tank over back axle. I used to have a leaky long range auxiliary tank, but removed it when replacing seatbox.
Ah I see, thanks. I think the battery box (under the passenger's seat) is going to be favourite for me, I'll either bolt it to the side or make a shelf for it.I have 110 so fuel tank over back axle. I used to have a leaky long range auxiliary tank, but removed it when replacing seatbox.
Just filled it up with coolant and had it running longer, burning all the oily hand marks off the exhaust manifolds
Really want to get the props on and get it moving but I'm a bit under the weather at the moment so anything requiring significant physical work is a no no. It sounds glorious on the open Disco 2 > 1 headers with only the cats though. Deep and burbling but not outrageously noisy. I think a nice 2.5" exhaust with a small silencer will be the way to go. My 100"Bowler has a Jetex 2.5" system from the y-piece to exit, it sounds fabulous. Discreet rumble at low revs. The y-piece is a mix of 3.9 EFi downpipes into 2" Jetex parts.
I'll post/pm photos if you want.
It's so discreet at idle that when green laning you are within a car's length of pedestrians before they hear you.
I'll post/pm photos if you want.
It's so discreet at idle that when green laning you are within a car's length of pedestrians before they hear you.
This is turning into the longest project ever. However.....
.....drum roll please: today I drove it along the road (and back). That's the first time it's moved under it's own steam with the 3.9 in it. Literally just along the road and back as there are still far too many parts missing from it, but I just needed to prove it would move. So, another burst of energy towards getting to finished.
Still entirely one person's work, (well, plus this and a few other forums), so there's a certain sense of achievement involved.
.....drum roll please: today I drove it along the road (and back
). That's the first time it's moved under it's own steam with the 3.9 in it. Literally just along the road and back as there are still far too many parts missing from it, but I just needed to prove it would move. So, another burst of energy towards getting to finished.Still entirely one person's work, (well, plus this and a few other forums), so there's a certain sense of achievement involved.
OK, so I'm back with another question!
I need to wire in a start inhibit for Park/Neutral. The gearbox has a switch for this (I believe it earths the connection in P/N) but on the donor car that goes back through the ECU and presumably thus into a relay somewhere which I don't have (nor the wiring for).
So my plan is to wire in a separate relay, which will operate via the gearbox switch earth, and the switch side will sit in the starter motor solenoid circuit. Ignition on, car in P/N and the relay coil circuit is made and the starter will operate; once in any other position the relay will drop out, so the relay coil won't normally be energised.
Seems simple to me but am I missing anything?
Also, I have a 30A relay but the starter solenoid cable (I'm using the existing Defender wiring for that) is quite a heavy gauge. Surely the solenoid (not the starter) won't draw a huge amount of current?
I need to wire in a start inhibit for Park/Neutral. The gearbox has a switch for this (I believe it earths the connection in P/N) but on the donor car that goes back through the ECU and presumably thus into a relay somewhere which I don't have (nor the wiring for).
So my plan is to wire in a separate relay, which will operate via the gearbox switch earth, and the switch side will sit in the starter motor solenoid circuit. Ignition on, car in P/N and the relay coil circuit is made and the starter will operate; once in any other position the relay will drop out, so the relay coil won't normally be energised.
Seems simple to me but am I missing anything?
Also, I have a 30A relay but the starter solenoid cable (I'm using the existing Defender wiring for that) is quite a heavy gauge. Surely the solenoid (not the starter) won't draw a huge amount of current?
CAPP0 said:
OK, so I'm back with another question!
I need to wire in a start inhibit for Park/Neutral. The gearbox has a switch for this (I believe it earths the connection in P/N) but on the donor car that goes back through the ECU and presumably thus into a relay somewhere which I don't have (nor the wiring for).
So my plan is to wire in a separate relay, which will operate via the gearbox switch earth, and the switch side will sit in the starter motor solenoid circuit. Ignition on, car in P/N and the relay coil circuit is made and the starter will operate; once in any other position the relay will drop out, so the relay coil won't normally be energised.
Seems simple to me but am I missing anything?
Also, I have a 30A relay but the starter solenoid cable (I'm using the existing Defender wiring for that) is quite a heavy gauge. Surely the solenoid (not the starter) won't draw a huge amount of current?
No, I don't think so, I use a standard mini relay to control the feed to my starter solenoid.I need to wire in a start inhibit for Park/Neutral. The gearbox has a switch for this (I believe it earths the connection in P/N) but on the donor car that goes back through the ECU and presumably thus into a relay somewhere which I don't have (nor the wiring for).
So my plan is to wire in a separate relay, which will operate via the gearbox switch earth, and the switch side will sit in the starter motor solenoid circuit. Ignition on, car in P/N and the relay coil circuit is made and the starter will operate; once in any other position the relay will drop out, so the relay coil won't normally be energised.
Seems simple to me but am I missing anything?
Also, I have a 30A relay but the starter solenoid cable (I'm using the existing Defender wiring for that) is quite a heavy gauge. Surely the solenoid (not the starter) won't draw a huge amount of current?
Do you have ballasted or non-ballasted ignition coil?
If you have an automatic gearbox the 14CUX ecu needs to know when neutral is selected too.
100SRV said:
CAPP0 said:
OK, so I'm back with another question!
I need to wire in a start inhibit for Park/Neutral. The gearbox has a switch for this (I believe it earths the connection in P/N) but on the donor car that goes back through the ECU and presumably thus into a relay somewhere which I don't have (nor the wiring for).
So my plan is to wire in a separate relay, which will operate via the gearbox switch earth, and the switch side will sit in the starter motor solenoid circuit. Ignition on, car in P/N and the relay coil circuit is made and the starter will operate; once in any other position the relay will drop out, so the relay coil won't normally be energised.
Seems simple to me but am I missing anything?
Also, I have a 30A relay but the starter solenoid cable (I'm using the existing Defender wiring for that) is quite a heavy gauge. Surely the solenoid (not the starter) won't draw a huge amount of current?
No, I don't think so, I use a standard mini relay to control the feed to my starter solenoid.I need to wire in a start inhibit for Park/Neutral. The gearbox has a switch for this (I believe it earths the connection in P/N) but on the donor car that goes back through the ECU and presumably thus into a relay somewhere which I don't have (nor the wiring for).
So my plan is to wire in a separate relay, which will operate via the gearbox switch earth, and the switch side will sit in the starter motor solenoid circuit. Ignition on, car in P/N and the relay coil circuit is made and the starter will operate; once in any other position the relay will drop out, so the relay coil won't normally be energised.
Seems simple to me but am I missing anything?
Also, I have a 30A relay but the starter solenoid cable (I'm using the existing Defender wiring for that) is quite a heavy gauge. Surely the solenoid (not the starter) won't draw a huge amount of current?
Do you have ballasted or non-ballasted ignition coil?
If you have an automatic gearbox the 14CUX ecu needs to know when neutral is selected too.
What does the neutral feed to the ECU do? I guess I can parallel that connection with the solenoid relay.
Many thanks for your input on this, it's been invaluable and very much appreciated! I received all the Jetex parts and mocked up the exhaust last weekend, very similar to yours although I have a slight issue with chassis clearance and exit point, mine not being the same as yours there, but it will be workable although I will probably have to alter the rear 3/4 behind the wheel.
You are welcome, happy to help. Good to know re the exhaust, glad the information was of use.
You'll need reverse signal from the automatic transmission to control the reversing lights too.
Lots of subtle things with 14CUX to be aware of, here is the first hit I found.
https://www.actproducts.co.uk/2011/lucas-14cux-fue...
Briefly:
Inhibitor Switch Sense – Manual and Automatic Transmission
The ECU uses this inhibitor switch signal to know whether it is managing a vehicle with a manual or an automatic transmission. For an automatic transmission, the ECU needs to know whether the car is in gear or not.
For cars with a manual transmission, this signal is connected to chassis ground via a 510 Ohm resistor. With automatic transmission it is connected to the inhibitor switch. In this case the signal is grounded when the transmission shifter is in the Park or Neutral positions. In gear the signal is allowed to float up, which means 5 Volts normally.
You'll need reverse signal from the automatic transmission to control the reversing lights too.
Lots of subtle things with 14CUX to be aware of, here is the first hit I found.
https://www.actproducts.co.uk/2011/lucas-14cux-fue...
Briefly:
Inhibitor Switch Sense – Manual and Automatic Transmission
The ECU uses this inhibitor switch signal to know whether it is managing a vehicle with a manual or an automatic transmission. For an automatic transmission, the ECU needs to know whether the car is in gear or not.
For cars with a manual transmission, this signal is connected to chassis ground via a 510 Ohm resistor. With automatic transmission it is connected to the inhibitor switch. In this case the signal is grounded when the transmission shifter is in the Park or Neutral positions. In gear the signal is allowed to float up, which means 5 Volts normally.
Edited by 100SRV on Friday 11th October 14:26
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