Defender Td5 brakes
Discussion
The brakes on my 110 are not as 'good' as they should be, despite new calipers all round, new fluid (x4) Brembo pads (fitted today) no better than the newish Bearmachs that were on previously. Don't you just hate it when you through a bunch of cash at a problem and it makes no difference whatsoever! No man maths can solve this today 
What next, in order of cheapness - braided hoses, new master cylinder, new servo? I know it doesn't stop like a 911 but it stopped better when it had seized, rusty calipers front and rear. Any ideas much appreciated?
What next, in order of cheapness - braided hoses, new master cylinder, new servo? I know it doesn't stop like a 911 but it stopped better when it had seized, rusty calipers front and rear. Any ideas much appreciated?
Edited by Sisu9 on Monday 20th June 06:32
Just had a thought on this, the brakes became more poor after a garage (not an LR specialist) fitted new calipers all round and rear brake pipes a few months back. I took the car back for the brakes to be bled again, fearing there was air in the system, but nothing really improved.
Just trying to narrow down where I should concentrate my efforts. Any ideas welcome.
Just trying to narrow down where I should concentrate my efforts. Any ideas welcome.
Not just brake parts, things like tyres shocks 4 tons of stuff in the boot 
Don't know enough about defender brakes but could you have fitted calipers from a different version or were they from a later / better version before you changed them. Defenders tend to be made up of all kinds of parts. More so as they get older.
Don't know enough about defender brakes but could you have fitted calipers from a different version or were they from a later / better version before you changed them. Defenders tend to be made up of all kinds of parts. More so as they get older.Could you get it onto a brake dynamometer (MOT station) to measure the actual braking effort?
Is the vaccum assist working - With the engine switched off, press the footbrake repeatedly until the pedal feels firm – this releases any residual vacuum in the system. Still pressing firmly on the brake pedal, start the engine. If the pedal gradually sinks toward the floor of the vehicle with the engine running, vacuum is being generated
Have they perhaps kinked one or both the new brake lines?
Is the flexy to the tee piece atop the rear axle routed correctly and free from kinks?
Is the vehicle unladen?
Is the vaccum assist working - With the engine switched off, press the footbrake repeatedly until the pedal feels firm – this releases any residual vacuum in the system. Still pressing firmly on the brake pedal, start the engine. If the pedal gradually sinks toward the floor of the vehicle with the engine running, vacuum is being generated
Have they perhaps kinked one or both the new brake lines?
Is the flexy to the tee piece atop the rear axle routed correctly and free from kinks?
Is the vehicle unladen?
Sisu9 said:
Just had a thought on this, the brakes became more poor after a garage (not an LR specialist) fitted new calipers all round and rear brake pipes a few months back. I took the car back for the brakes to be bled again, fearing there was air in the system, but nothing really improved.
Just trying to narrow down where I should concentrate my efforts. Any ideas welcome.
When you bleed the master cylinder the seals are travelling further down the bore than normal. If they are starting to get old the act of bleeding the brakes can cause the seals to bypass fluid.Just trying to narrow down where I should concentrate my efforts. Any ideas welcome.
That would be my first thing to do (using a quality TRW or OEM part).
Good advice and makes a lot of sense re the circumstances. Bought a brake cylinder refurb kit and new hoses and will try that. Cheaper fixes first!
The brakes are neither spongy or hard, they're just not that good. This was the case just after the front caliper change and before the new tyres were fitted.
The brakes are neither spongy or hard, they're just not that good. This was the case just after the front caliper change and before the new tyres were fitted.
Just wanted to report back on this as I think it's also useful for anyone else who experiences problems.
Braided hoses have been fitted front and rear and this has much-improved braking, to the point where the wheels almost locked on tarmac (no ABS). On talking to the mechanic, he told me that although the brake hoses looked ok on the outside they can decompose on the inside and therefore compromise braking. I think with further bedding in of the pads they may improve still further.
Play in the steering was also somewhat improved by only 1/8th tightening of the steering box.
Braided hoses have been fitted front and rear and this has much-improved braking, to the point where the wheels almost locked on tarmac (no ABS). On talking to the mechanic, he told me that although the brake hoses looked ok on the outside they can decompose on the inside and therefore compromise braking. I think with further bedding in of the pads they may improve still further.
Play in the steering was also somewhat improved by only 1/8th tightening of the steering box.
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