L322 Owners - step forward...
Discussion
I've owned a Classic , a P38 and two L322s - still running the latest one.
I've been in an L322 since about 2010. First one was a 2006 with the Jag V8 (relatively rare, everyone thought diesel was the answer back then) which I put, I think, about 40k on, then I swapped to a 2010 5.0 SC which is my daily. I've had that about 4 years and put something like 25k on it. The only problems I have had were a cooling fan failure which was £400-ish to replace, and a tiny leak in the aluminium coolant pipe at the back of the engine, which the indy I use repaired rather than replaced as the part was on back order.
I hear all the horror stories about reliability but for me, so far, they've not had any significant problems, and they are a very nice thing to waft around in. With the length of time I've had them, and as a pensioner now, I do sometimes think about changing the SC for something a little cheaper to run (18-20mpg on short journeys, hefty road tax) but within the realms of not taking massive finance for something, it's difficult to know what to go for.
I've been in an L322 since about 2010. First one was a 2006 with the Jag V8 (relatively rare, everyone thought diesel was the answer back then) which I put, I think, about 40k on, then I swapped to a 2010 5.0 SC which is my daily. I've had that about 4 years and put something like 25k on it. The only problems I have had were a cooling fan failure which was £400-ish to replace, and a tiny leak in the aluminium coolant pipe at the back of the engine, which the indy I use repaired rather than replaced as the part was on back order.
I hear all the horror stories about reliability but for me, so far, they've not had any significant problems, and they are a very nice thing to waft around in. With the length of time I've had them, and as a pensioner now, I do sometimes think about changing the SC for something a little cheaper to run (18-20mpg on short journeys, hefty road tax) but within the realms of not taking massive finance for something, it's difficult to know what to go for.
sirmarcus said:
I have just bought (but not yet collected) a 2009 L322 Vogue with 106k miles. I bought it based on its service history more than anything else. Only time will tell whether I’ve made a good decision - will report back with some early ownership experiences…
Keep us posted, would be interested to know how you get on with it.Recalcitrant said:
Evening all.
I am interested in L322 owner experiences, I'm sure there must be plenty of you here?
These have what appears to be a fairly negative reputation in terms of reliability, but is it deserved? There are countless examples for sale at very high mileage.
Often the horror stories are second hand, rather than first - "my mate Dave down the pub spent £10k a year on his"
On the face of it, they look a very nice car, inside and out, for £10-15k (for later 2010+ diesel models). Plenty of parts available, and plenty of knowledge out there.
So, how have yours been to run? Please include the age and model as I suspect a 2002 version may differ quite a bit from a 2012.
A lot of YouTubers seem to buy them for the footage / stories, a couple I've enjoyed have been:I am interested in L322 owner experiences, I'm sure there must be plenty of you here?
These have what appears to be a fairly negative reputation in terms of reliability, but is it deserved? There are countless examples for sale at very high mileage.
Often the horror stories are second hand, rather than first - "my mate Dave down the pub spent £10k a year on his"
On the face of it, they look a very nice car, inside and out, for £10-15k (for later 2010+ diesel models). Plenty of parts available, and plenty of knowledge out there.
So, how have yours been to run? Please include the age and model as I suspect a 2002 version may differ quite a bit from a 2012.
Sam's Motor & Machines - https://www.youtube.com/@SamsMotors
Tyred Format - https://www.youtube.com/@TyredFormat
Lucy on Cars bought a high miler 2009 TDV8 (3.6) - in fairness not a lot has gone wrong despite the clickbait titles!
The consensus from a lot of reading around / thinking of dipping my toe seems to be, 4.4V8 Petrol (Jaguar) or the 4.2 SC seem to engine wise have less issues, most appear to say to avoid the 5 speed GM box in the earlier petrol BMW engined car or the BMW 3 litre diesel. The TDV8 does seem to be a great engine for the car so long as you accept that the turbos might throw a fit and drain you of the best part of £4k. I think it's worth considering how frequently (if ever) you'll drive into a low emission zone the fuel economy may offset the LEZ costs.
Let us know what you buy and how you get on - check the insurance before you buy (some postcodes are now significantly more than you might expect).
I had a the BMW 4.4 and it was a great car but the gearbox was trash.
Had it replaced and then 2 years later that started to grumble.
The suspension airbags were also garbage and the suspension pump. All replaced over time.
Did the rear bushes myself (the big ones) and it wasnt that bad but I had a full workshop.
Replaced all the coils and plugs myself too - no biggy but 8 x ££ = £££.
The inside was nice.
The drive was nice.
We had 2 major snow events in the time I had it and the RR was very, very capable.
Was it worth it?
Think I paid about £13k for it and it cost me about £5k ish (IIRC) to keep going for 2 and a bit years.
PXd for 7k.
Yeah I will say yes. But only just.
I am considering another but will be a euro 6 L406.
Lighter. Less strain on the gearbox, suspension etc.
Cheaper road tax.
Nicer inside (subjective).
Just need prices to come down a smidge more.
These days a good scan tool and youtube means you can fix all the minor stuff DIY.
Back when I had mine for 90% of stuff I used an indy.
My only other advice would be to change your oil every 6 months / 5k on the diesels.
Its literally a 20 minute job and I have a feeling the turbo issues are all down to oiling.
Some models need a turbo oil return mod. So check for that if it applies.
Had it replaced and then 2 years later that started to grumble.
The suspension airbags were also garbage and the suspension pump. All replaced over time.
Did the rear bushes myself (the big ones) and it wasnt that bad but I had a full workshop.
Replaced all the coils and plugs myself too - no biggy but 8 x ££ = £££.
The inside was nice.
The drive was nice.
We had 2 major snow events in the time I had it and the RR was very, very capable.
Was it worth it?
Think I paid about £13k for it and it cost me about £5k ish (IIRC) to keep going for 2 and a bit years.
PXd for 7k.
Yeah I will say yes. But only just.
I am considering another but will be a euro 6 L406.
Lighter. Less strain on the gearbox, suspension etc.
Cheaper road tax.
Nicer inside (subjective).
Just need prices to come down a smidge more.
These days a good scan tool and youtube means you can fix all the minor stuff DIY.
Back when I had mine for 90% of stuff I used an indy.
My only other advice would be to change your oil every 6 months / 5k on the diesels.
Its literally a 20 minute job and I have a feeling the turbo issues are all down to oiling.
Some models need a turbo oil return mod. So check for that if it applies.
gotoPzero said:
My only other advice would be to change your oil every 6 months / 5k on the diesels.
Its literally a 20 minute job and I have a feeling the turbo issues are all down to oiling.
Some models need a turbo oil return mod. So check for that if it applies.
This is the best advice. Change the oil as above. The TDV8 has two oil drain plugs and be sure both are removed during oil change. Its literally a 20 minute job and I have a feeling the turbo issues are all down to oiling.
Some models need a turbo oil return mod. So check for that if it applies.
Also let the turbos cool down for 15 to 30 seconds before shut down.
2012 tdv8 here - about 65k on it. No real issues to speak off, did waste money on a new starter and battery because it had intermittent start problem - which turned out to be a simple known fault where the wire to the low current side of the starter solenoid doesn’t deliver enough current to engage, you just run a thicker wire in parallel - it’s documented on fulllfat iirc
it’s getting a genuine zf filter and fluid this service.
it’s getting a genuine zf filter and fluid this service.
A quick google does seem to suggest it's an 'as per the onboard service indicator' job.
I'd be curious as to the histories of cars that have had more issues with turbos etc. and how often the computer says it needs a service.
Surely something along the lines of every 10k miles (assuming this is made up of journeys where the car gets fully up to temperature and not many short journeys) or annually would be a good starting point.
I'd be curious as to the histories of cars that have had more issues with turbos etc. and how often the computer says it needs a service.
Surely something along the lines of every 10k miles (assuming this is made up of journeys where the car gets fully up to temperature and not many short journeys) or annually would be a good starting point.
Patrick Bateman said:
I'd be curious as to the histories of cars that have had more issues with turbos etc. and how often the computer says it needs a service.
From memory - service every 12k miles - replacing the turbo was "the beginning of the end" for me so would have been at about 180k miles.Mostly motorway driving, very limited short/city drives - but equally I can easily go 1-2k miles over service intervals before being able to get something booked.
Vsix and Vtec said:
I once owned a '58 plate TDV8 Vogue SE for two years. Lovely thing, super comfy, unstoppable on any terrain. I did about 40k miles. Most of my issues were MOT related items (rusty brake pipes, leaking PAS pipe) until the dreaded EML. Aftermarket specialist diagnosed it as the left bank EGR valve. They advised I replaced both, as they're next to each other and the parts only cost £250 each. I was quoted £3,000 all in, which unfortunately was a bit too steep for me to handle at that time, and so with equity still in the car (and the EML intermittent) I part exchanged it.
If I had to chose again, I'd pick the same year (the last one before the fully digital dash, which can be very problematic) but with the Jaguar 4.2 petrol V8.
The EGR valves aren't next to each other. There is an EGR valve on each bank, so they have to go through the wheel arch to get to both of them. If I had to chose again, I'd pick the same year (the last one before the fully digital dash, which can be very problematic) but with the Jaguar 4.2 petrol V8.
I suspect the reason they said to do both was some diagnostics won't tell you which EGR valve is at fault, so they have no choice but to do both of them really.
Sadly its aging diesel and EGR issues are quite common the 3.6TDV8 You can get the valve mapped outm, but getti0nng to it to blank it completely is as much labour as replacing them.
I have a 2007 RR 3.6TDV8. They are simply amazing cars and like others, my family have quite taken to it and I am now thinking of selling it. I'm thinking of a Golf R, but then Mrs B said she thought it was a bit of a step down from a RR
The space isn't the best compared to other RRS of the same vintage, but the engine and comfort levels and superb. They certainly give you the grin factor and even with 'only' 280bhp on tap, they are plenty quick enough.
Patrick Bateman said:
A quick google does seem to suggest it's an 'as per the onboard service indicator' job.
I'd be curious as to the histories of cars that have had more issues with turbos etc. and how often the computer says it needs a service.
Surely something along the lines of every 10k miles (assuming this is made up of journeys where the car gets fully up to temperature and not many short journeys) or annually would be a good starting point.
I've escaped any turbo issues so far - during my 8 years of ownership I have done 55k miles, serviced/changed the oil at least annually.I'd be curious as to the histories of cars that have had more issues with turbos etc. and how often the computer says it needs a service.
Surely something along the lines of every 10k miles (assuming this is made up of journeys where the car gets fully up to temperature and not many short journeys) or annually would be a good starting point.
Now on 110k miles - during my ownership i replaced alternator, oil cooler and turbo hoses (and consumables of course).
I do drive the car with mechanical sympathy - letting it warm up just a bit and getting oil circulating before setting off, letting the car cool for 30 secs after a long hot run.
every third tank or so i fill up with premium diesel.
This is a great thread - good to see some true ownership experiences being shared.
I've run a late 3.6TDV8 as a family car for the past 18 months. There's a detailed thread in Reader's Cars including costs here.
Of the very detailed remarks I've read so far on here this one from Krikkit stands out the most to me:
Only other comment to add is if I had my time again I'd probably go for 4.4TDV8 with 8spd box, as I think these offer a decent step up in economy thanks to the long top gears.
I've run a late 3.6TDV8 as a family car for the past 18 months. There's a detailed thread in Reader's Cars including costs here.
Of the very detailed remarks I've read so far on here this one from Krikkit stands out the most to me:
Krikkit said:
I think this all revolves around what kind of owner you are and what kind of car you're purchasing...
If you're someone who has to have every single thing perfect, and won't touch anything yourself, be prepared to funnel a serious amount of money into the fire unless you buy an absolutely perfect car.
However, if you're prepared to put up with the odd niggle, and maybe think about doing some simple things yourself, they can be a great option imho.
Seconded. I would't consider one at the age/mileage they are if paying someone else maintain it. If you're someone who has to have every single thing perfect, and won't touch anything yourself, be prepared to funnel a serious amount of money into the fire unless you buy an absolutely perfect car.
However, if you're prepared to put up with the odd niggle, and maybe think about doing some simple things yourself, they can be a great option imho.
Only other comment to add is if I had my time again I'd probably go for 4.4TDV8 with 8spd box, as I think these offer a decent step up in economy thanks to the long top gears.
bakerstreet said:
The EGR valves aren't next to each other. There is an EGR valve on each bank, so they have to go through the wheel arch to get to both of them.
I suspect the reason they said to do both was some diagnostics won't tell you which EGR valve is at fault, so they have no choice but to do both of them really.
Sadly its aging diesel and EGR issues are quite common the 3.6TDV8 You can get the valve mapped outm, but getti0nng to it to blank it completely is as much labour as replacing them.
I have a 2007 RR 3.6TDV8. They are simply amazing cars and like others, my family have quite taken to it and I am now thinking of selling it. I'm thinking of a Golf R, but then Mrs B said she thought it was a bit of a step down from a RR
The space isn't the best compared to other RRS of the same vintage, but the engine and comfort levels and superb. They certainly give you the grin factor and even with 'only' 280bhp on tap, they are plenty quick enough.
The Harry's Garage video mentions treating the EGR's as a consumable and replacing them at 80-90k (I think) as they can cause some issues. Would assume it applies to the 4.4 as well.I suspect the reason they said to do both was some diagnostics won't tell you which EGR valve is at fault, so they have no choice but to do both of them really.
Sadly its aging diesel and EGR issues are quite common the 3.6TDV8 You can get the valve mapped outm, but getti0nng to it to blank it completely is as much labour as replacing them.
I have a 2007 RR 3.6TDV8. They are simply amazing cars and like others, my family have quite taken to it and I am now thinking of selling it. I'm thinking of a Golf R, but then Mrs B said she thought it was a bit of a step down from a RR
The space isn't the best compared to other RRS of the same vintage, but the engine and comfort levels and superb. They certainly give you the grin factor and even with 'only' 280bhp on tap, they are plenty quick enough.
gotoPzero said:
I had a the BMW 4.4 and it was a great car but the gearbox was trash.
Had it replaced and then 2 years later that started to grumble.
Out of interest, did you find out why the gearboxes failed?Had it replaced and then 2 years later that started to grumble.
The grumbling in the gearbox on my 4.4 BMW V8-engined L322 turned out to be because the oil/water heat exchanger was one of the many things in the cooling system that failed and thus allowed coolant into the gearbox, eating away at its friction linings.
If you buy one make sure you buy a decent code reader.
I bought a late 2010 4.4 TDV8 last year and touch wood its been reliable bar some niggles. B
I had one of the intake pipes split so replaced all 4 of those with silicone variants and think i snagged an EGR temperature sensor cable while doing it. I get a random warning about it but it makes no difference to everyday driving. Something to fix when i get a weekend of decent weather along with the seal at the back of the oil cooler too.
The other thing of concern on the 4.4 diesels is the addition of DPFs.
You want to service the gearboxes regularly too.
I was also surprised how expensive they were to insure but i guess thats down to the theft risk and keyless entry.
I bought a late 2010 4.4 TDV8 last year and touch wood its been reliable bar some niggles. B
I had one of the intake pipes split so replaced all 4 of those with silicone variants and think i snagged an EGR temperature sensor cable while doing it. I get a random warning about it but it makes no difference to everyday driving. Something to fix when i get a weekend of decent weather along with the seal at the back of the oil cooler too.
The other thing of concern on the 4.4 diesels is the addition of DPFs.
You want to service the gearboxes regularly too.
I was also surprised how expensive they were to insure but i guess thats down to the theft risk and keyless entry.
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