The 3D Printer Thread
Discussion
Personally I would be buying a 3D scanner and looking to partner up with someone who has a printer and the ability to clean up your scanning files.
It'll cost you way under 2K to get started and you'll be able to scan any part you can get your hands on from any car manufacturer.
In fact for 2K you could easily buy a scanner AND a printer and as much filament you'd need to print off a decent print run.
It'll cost you way under 2K to get started and you'll be able to scan any part you can get your hands on from any car manufacturer.
In fact for 2K you could easily buy a scanner AND a printer and as much filament you'd need to print off a decent print run.
bryn_p said:
Thanks again for the all the advice.
OR3D have been extremely helpful but the cost of getting some CAD files useable for manufacture is £2k plus VAT which is obviously quite a lot.
However, as the parts cost over £300 per side originally and there are none available any more, it's possible I could sell them for £600 per pair.
So now it comes down to manufacturing cost
If they sell for that and there is a bit of volume, a mould tool will be £1-2k... Which would be a much better process than 3D printed. OR3D have been extremely helpful but the cost of getting some CAD files useable for manufacture is £2k plus VAT which is obviously quite a lot.
However, as the parts cost over £300 per side originally and there are none available any more, it's possible I could sell them for £600 per pair.
So now it comes down to manufacturing cost
Here is the 3D scan company that was recommended to me:
https://www.j-supplied-3d.co.uk/?gclid=EAIaIQobChM...
J supplied 3D.
I am torn as I have a decent artillery sidewinder pro printer and I use Fusion 360 but get frustrated that I do not use it enough to be able to draw anything I like within the software, I often get stuck not knowing how to do what I want it to do, I could easily draw it on paper faster.
I have been looking at 3D scanners under £1000 and the online reviews show that they are a long way from perfect with some limitations. I enjoy restoring 1980 / 1990's 2 stroke motorbikes and often the Italian stuff can be hard or expensive to find parts for - I recently paid £200 for an air box lid that I should be able to scan, print and then sell more of. Not sure if I should buy a scanner or send off to be scanned.
https://www.j-supplied-3d.co.uk/?gclid=EAIaIQobChM...
J supplied 3D.
I am torn as I have a decent artillery sidewinder pro printer and I use Fusion 360 but get frustrated that I do not use it enough to be able to draw anything I like within the software, I often get stuck not knowing how to do what I want it to do, I could easily draw it on paper faster.
I have been looking at 3D scanners under £1000 and the online reviews show that they are a long way from perfect with some limitations. I enjoy restoring 1980 / 1990's 2 stroke motorbikes and often the Italian stuff can be hard or expensive to find parts for - I recently paid £200 for an air box lid that I should be able to scan, print and then sell more of. Not sure if I should buy a scanner or send off to be scanned.
its been about 9 years since i used a 3d scanner, and by far the most difficult part was getting the point cloud into decent surfaces you could actually use to print from. It may well have improved since then but i reckon it will be a steep learning curve. Hence the high costs I guess.
ARHarh said:
its been about 9 years since i used a 3d scanner, and by far the most difficult part was getting the point cloud into decent surfaces you could actually use to print from. It may well have improved since then but i reckon it will be a steep learning curve. Hence the high costs I guess.
Yeah I figured these guys are charging £650 a day because they know what they're doing and are going to get a far better (and quicker) result than I do if I spend £2k on equipment and try to do it myself. And the actual manufacturing cost is not that high (far less than the parts cost when they were available) so if I get a run of them made there's a chance I'd get my money back anyway.Thanks again for all the advice gents
Clio V6 Phase 1 - There were 1,513 production cars built in total between 2001 and 2002
-15% lost in accidents or having a different bumper = 1,286 (it's probably less than that!)
10% of them may need replacement for fog light panels in future; 3% get them used from the aforementioned 15%, makes a market potential for 90 pairs. This is very basic approach to gauge the potential. If there are no replacement bumpers left, nobody will need those inserts. Also, it might take ten years until you sold them off.
Invest for design data creation £2500 - £28/pair
A capable CAD designer could also build up the model without scanning it, but having only a dozen reference points measured with a Romer arm. The rest can be done with a caliper. You might get some minor deviations in the shape, but fit will be as original. Advantage will be to have fully parametric design data, which eases mold design (see below).
With a target price of £150 per pair, there's some left for other investments, costs, material and processing:
With a quantity set, you may select the manufacturing process:
high invest for two cavities soft steel mold for ~£20k, low unit price, very close to original part
The latter could be very interesting: vacuum forming rigs are around for a long time, and can be had used. There's also not much to it, you can build one yourself by re-using an infrared heater and a vacuum cleaner (guides on youtube). Cutting to shape and gluing could be done by you to increase your value creation. The forms can be made from modelling foam on a hobby CNC mill, since the material is soft, and dimensions seem to be smaller than DIN A4 and <90mm height.
-15% lost in accidents or having a different bumper = 1,286 (it's probably less than that!)
10% of them may need replacement for fog light panels in future; 3% get them used from the aforementioned 15%, makes a market potential for 90 pairs. This is very basic approach to gauge the potential. If there are no replacement bumpers left, nobody will need those inserts. Also, it might take ten years until you sold them off.
Invest for design data creation £2500 - £28/pair
A capable CAD designer could also build up the model without scanning it, but having only a dozen reference points measured with a Romer arm. The rest can be done with a caliper. You might get some minor deviations in the shape, but fit will be as original. Advantage will be to have fully parametric design data, which eases mold design (see below).
With a target price of £150 per pair, there's some left for other investments, costs, material and processing:
With a quantity set, you may select the manufacturing process:
- FDM printing:
- SLS printing:
- vacuum softmold(s)
-
injection molding
- hybrid vacuum forming for the shell geometry + FDM-printed screw bosses
The latter could be very interesting: vacuum forming rigs are around for a long time, and can be had used. There's also not much to it, you can build one yourself by re-using an infrared heater and a vacuum cleaner (guides on youtube). Cutting to shape and gluing could be done by you to increase your value creation. The forms can be made from modelling foam on a hobby CNC mill, since the material is soft, and dimensions seem to be smaller than DIN A4 and <90mm height.
I am completely new to this 3d printing lark. I just bought an Ender 3 V2. Built it and tried prinitng. I ordered some PETG because what I want to build needs to be strong. Started with something simple.
I cant get it to print properly. I levelled the bed, have tried different bed temps between 70-80 different nozzle temps 220-245. Added 0.02 z axis offset. It doesnt stick to the glass bed and just ends up spooling up in a messy heap.
Any ideas please?
I cant get it to print properly. I levelled the bed, have tried different bed temps between 70-80 different nozzle temps 220-245. Added 0.02 z axis offset. It doesnt stick to the glass bed and just ends up spooling up in a messy heap.
Any ideas please?
Had exactly the same issue with PETG, purple glue stick was the answer.
The one I have is the elmers one from the US, because thats the only recommendation I could find at the time, available here but is not cheap.
Since learnt that Tesco do one in their "go create" range that works - this one https://www.tesco.com/groceries/en-GB/products/281...
Have not tried it myself yet. I did find it in my local branch, but it wasn't with other glue, there was a separate bit for all the "go create" stuff.
I flip the glass over to the smooth side, stick some glue on and off you go. Follow the temperatures suggested by the filament maker, but you're in the right area, 230/70 or so. The other thing I read to help get a good print with PETG is turn the fans off in the slicer.
The one I have is the elmers one from the US, because thats the only recommendation I could find at the time, available here but is not cheap.
Since learnt that Tesco do one in their "go create" range that works - this one https://www.tesco.com/groceries/en-GB/products/281...
Have not tried it myself yet. I did find it in my local branch, but it wasn't with other glue, there was a separate bit for all the "go create" stuff.
I flip the glass over to the smooth side, stick some glue on and off you go. Follow the temperatures suggested by the filament maker, but you're in the right area, 230/70 or so. The other thing I read to help get a good print with PETG is turn the fans off in the slicer.
ReverendCounter said:
Scabutz said:
I ordered some PETG ... I cant get it to print properly. ..
Is your printer inside an enclosure? Is it in a cold room, or in a draught - maybe the temps need to be increased/decreased because of the ambient temp.If you're printing onto a glass bed use hair spray on the bed.
Let the print bed heat up, I usually use 60degrees, and then give it a fine dusting of hair spray.
The hot bed plus the sticky spray works wonders and it's easy to separate when it cools down after printing too. When the glass bed becomes too gunky from lots of spray it's easily cleaned off in warm soapy water.
Let the print bed heat up, I usually use 60degrees, and then give it a fine dusting of hair spray.
The hot bed plus the sticky spray works wonders and it's easy to separate when it cools down after printing too. When the glass bed becomes too gunky from lots of spray it's easily cleaned off in warm soapy water.
Scabutz said:
It's not enclosed. It was in my office. I do like the window open and it was cold today
They need to be in a draught free stable temperature/environment. You can put a simple photography tent around them like here, if you scroll down a bit: https://blog.prusaprinters.org/cheap-simple-3d-pri...Or make sure the window is closed and there aren't any draughts cooling things down too much.
Has anyone built themselves a Voron printer or any experience with them?
I've had an Anycubic i3 Mega for years, doing various upgrades with good success but never really took proper time to do anything more. Sort of how it goes, got fed up and left things for a while.
With things coming on so much over the last few years and my Dad buying an Ender 3 v2 (which is really good for the price) I've started using it more and this time really enjoyed it in a way I didn't before.
I would like to learn 3D cad a bit more but the prospect of designing proper stuff isn't realistic, so had a look for 'good' DIY printers and came across Voron. Had never seen them before but I've now watched hours of videos and read everything, looked at all the cad designs, documentation etc. It all looks brilliant... not just 'as far as open source projects go' but really properly well thought out right down to standardisation of parts and ensuring all the recommended components being available worldwide.
As a start, I've decided to build an Voron M4 extruder and fit it to my i3 - https://vorondesign.com/voron_m4
Got all the parts printed for one and going to order bearings etc. Don't care if it costs more than buying something, it's the fun of it
I've had an Anycubic i3 Mega for years, doing various upgrades with good success but never really took proper time to do anything more. Sort of how it goes, got fed up and left things for a while.
With things coming on so much over the last few years and my Dad buying an Ender 3 v2 (which is really good for the price) I've started using it more and this time really enjoyed it in a way I didn't before.
I would like to learn 3D cad a bit more but the prospect of designing proper stuff isn't realistic, so had a look for 'good' DIY printers and came across Voron. Had never seen them before but I've now watched hours of videos and read everything, looked at all the cad designs, documentation etc. It all looks brilliant... not just 'as far as open source projects go' but really properly well thought out right down to standardisation of parts and ensuring all the recommended components being available worldwide.
As a start, I've decided to build an Voron M4 extruder and fit it to my i3 - https://vorondesign.com/voron_m4
Got all the parts printed for one and going to order bearings etc. Don't care if it costs more than buying something, it's the fun of it
fiatpower said:
Scabutz said:
What is a raft? I'm printing a simple round object
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