The 3D Printer Thread
Discussion
Ambleton said:
Wish you hadn't posted these details....
I'm now toying with the idea of the Voron... already downloaded the STLs, instructions and parts list.
Damn you...
How many hours did it take to assemble once you had all the parts?
I really don't know, nor what the average is hour wise, but it was good fun doing it and I probably had it complete and printing within two weeks of the frame arriving as I had almost everything by that point.I'm now toying with the idea of the Voron... already downloaded the STLs, instructions and parts list.
Damn you...
How many hours did it take to assemble once you had all the parts?
It's proportional to the effort/detail you want to put into it, as some people go crazy on the wiring for example but I just did what was tidy enough and maintainable. Also the order in which parts arrive (often you're being delayed finishing one aspect because a part is still on it's way and to assume you have them all isn't realistic) plays a big part. I had all my z drives, the tool head and other sub assemblies and things all built up before I even had a frame.
I wouldn't say it's difficult to build though if you're mechanically inclined though, even the electronics part is relatively straight forward.
Not sure, I think it’s common to see high 40s with it like this. It’s not meant as a high temp thing specifically, just to achieve enough to reliably print ABS.
But if you insulate it properly and build it with that in mind I believe it’s possible to see 70 with only the bed heater but you’ll need to do some research on that.
There’s a guy on YouTube called Nero who’s part of the test team. He’s currently building a v1 one targeting higher temps for the kinda stuff you’re talking, so fully insulated enclosure, higher temp components etc.
But if you insulate it properly and build it with that in mind I believe it’s possible to see 70 with only the bed heater but you’ll need to do some research on that.
There’s a guy on YouTube called Nero who’s part of the test team. He’s currently building a v1 one targeting higher temps for the kinda stuff you’re talking, so fully insulated enclosure, higher temp components etc.
Out of interest, where did you source your parts for the voron?
Did you use any EU suppliers? I see companies like lecktor seem to have a good stock of parts for the zero and you'd assume you could be much more sure you are getting say a genuine LDO motor than with some of the AliExpress suppliers.
Did you use any EU suppliers? I see companies like lecktor seem to have a good stock of parts for the zero and you'd assume you could be much more sure you are getting say a genuine LDO motor than with some of the AliExpress suppliers.
Neil_Sc said:
Out of interest, where did you source your parts for the voron?
Did you use any EU suppliers? I see companies like lecktor seem to have a good stock of parts for the zero and you'd assume you could be much more sure you are getting say a genuine LDO motor than with some of the AliExpress suppliers.
I printed out the official Voron BOM for it (so 3 pages of A4 of parts) and just worked through it bit by bit deciding as I went.Did you use any EU suppliers? I see companies like lecktor seem to have a good stock of parts for the zero and you'd assume you could be much more sure you are getting say a genuine LDO motor than with some of the AliExpress suppliers.
For most of it followed their sourcing guide, so belts, rails, pulleys, t nuts, heater, spring sheet, hot end etc all from AliExpress recommended sellers - everthing on that list is well tested and trusted.
Then frame, hardware (bolts, washers, etc) from UK suppliers and electrical components (power supply, switches, molex connectors, SSR etc) from Farnell, Digikey and Mouser. Build plate came from a UK metal place who's name escapes me.
Cable chains and fans came from Amazon. My motors came directly from StepperOnline here. The SKR 1.4 boards from Amazon but think people are moving to using the new Fystek (sp) Spider board as the SKRs are in short supply if you can get one. Think those come from AliExpress.
There's a UK specific source list and people in Discord are quite good at helping with where to get stuff. A few UK based suppliers are appearing (and post on Discord) and one of the guys is supposed to be getting LDO stuff in stock soon.
It is a bit fiddly finding it all, but it's no worse than a few nights doing the research and then ordering it all.
I haven't noticed any mention of Delta printers yet.
I got a Flsun QQ-S/pro delta printer.
Deltans are in demand due to their superior speed to Cartesians ones, although in my case I got it as it takes up a bit less horizontal space and I couldn't fit a regular one in.
Print volume is cylindrical and is 255 x 360 mm tall.
The one I have is a bit non standard as it has.
Heavy duty reinforced nylon drive belts
Capricorn Bowden tubing
dual feed all metal extruder
2208 driver stepper motors which make it very quiet.
Still working through it all as I've never used a 3d printer before, I have a remote camera watching when it prints as it's in another room.
I got a Flsun QQ-S/pro delta printer.
Deltans are in demand due to their superior speed to Cartesians ones, although in my case I got it as it takes up a bit less horizontal space and I couldn't fit a regular one in.
Print volume is cylindrical and is 255 x 360 mm tall.
The one I have is a bit non standard as it has.
Heavy duty reinforced nylon drive belts
Capricorn Bowden tubing
dual feed all metal extruder
2208 driver stepper motors which make it very quiet.
Still working through it all as I've never used a 3d printer before, I have a remote camera watching when it prints as it's in another room.
My niece requested an RC "Blaze" from Monster Machines for her bday.
The only ones you can buy are s
te and only go forward and back and generally look very poor.
Take one RC rock crawler:
Add in a fairly heavy dose of CAD
Print...
Half tempted to make the STLs available on Thingiverse but I'm loathed to give away CAD design work for free
The only ones you can buy are s
te and only go forward and back and generally look very poor.Take one RC rock crawler:
Add in a fairly heavy dose of CAD
Print...
Half tempted to make the STLs available on Thingiverse but I'm loathed to give away CAD design work for free
Ambleton said:
My niece requested an RC "Blaze" from Monster Machines for her bday.
...
Half tempted to make the STLs available on Thingiverse but I'm loathed to give away CAD design work for free
So let me get this straight: It's ok for you to rip off the Blaze character (somebody else's CAD work), but you don't want to share the model because it's your work?...
Half tempted to make the STLs available on Thingiverse but I'm loathed to give away CAD design work for free
Regardless of which model of 3D printer you have at home, you probably owe the vast majority of the hardware, firmware and software to a community of people who gave away far more valuable work for free.
Fishlegs said:
Ambleton said:
My niece requested an RC "Blaze" from Monster Machines for her bday.
...
Half tempted to make the STLs available on Thingiverse but I'm loathed to give away CAD design work for free
So let me get this straight: It's ok for you to rip off the Blaze character (somebody else's CAD work), but you don't want to share the model because it's your work?...
Half tempted to make the STLs available on Thingiverse but I'm loathed to give away CAD design work for free
Regardless of which model of 3D printer you have at home, you probably owe the vast majority of the hardware, firmware and software to a community of people who gave away far more valuable work for free.
In any case, if there was a decent RC car that was an official licensed product I would have happily bought it. As it happens, there wasn't, so I created something similar for my neice.
I'm a design engineer by trade. If I gave away all my CAD design time then what would i live on and pay my mortgage with?
If people are prepared to give stuff away for free then that's up to them. Doesn't make good business sense to me but there we go.
Edited by Ambleton on Monday 21st June 20:10
For these photos, they aren't available, not anywhere, not at all, it took me nearly 20 years to collect up a set a few parts at a time so the only option is to have them made.
There are a couple of options, none are straightforward, but I wonder if they can be scanned and 3D printed? I have originals to scan.
Are there 3DP materials than are
- strong enough to have a 5/16 BSF screw embedded/tapped into so they can be screwed into the hubs.
- can be chrome plated.
Also, if anyone has the technology to make them, PM me to talk about price and min quantity. Production run wouldn't be very high, 4 per car obviously but there are only a couple of hundred cars in existence and many already have a set, so we might be looking at making 5 sets?
They are currently in 2 parts - the dish with HEALEY on is separate this can be or not 2 parts. Doesn't need to be as hollow, they're just like that because of how they are made, cant be fully solid doe to shape of the part underneath.
There are a couple of options, none are straightforward, but I wonder if they can be scanned and 3D printed? I have originals to scan.
Are there 3DP materials than are
- strong enough to have a 5/16 BSF screw embedded/tapped into so they can be screwed into the hubs.
- can be chrome plated.
Also, if anyone has the technology to make them, PM me to talk about price and min quantity. Production run wouldn't be very high, 4 per car obviously but there are only a couple of hundred cars in existence and many already have a set, so we might be looking at making 5 sets?
They are currently in 2 parts - the dish with HEALEY on is separate this can be or not 2 parts. Doesn't need to be as hollow, they're just like that because of how they are made, cant be fully solid doe to shape of the part underneath.
john2443 said:
...
Are there 3DP materials than are
- strong enough to have a 5/16 BSF screw embedded/tapped into so they can be screwed into the hubs.
- can be chrome plated.
...
3d printing metals is state of the art, but at the same time very expensive and may only be chrome plated with considerable effort and further manual steps.Are there 3DP materials than are
- strong enough to have a 5/16 BSF screw embedded/tapped into so they can be screwed into the hubs.
- can be chrome plated.
...
Printing them in ABS, creating a smooth outer surface with acetone steam and then painting them with chrome effect spray might give a similar look, but IMO not parts that might be used on a car that is actually driven.
john2443 said:
Are we looking at two deep drawn sheet metal (steel) parts that are chrome plated?The screw/thread looks like it is fixed by a cage and four pop rivets; the embossed chrome cap seems to have six lugs at the bottom to connect both chrome plated parts. Your BOM is certainly longer than two items, where the pop rivets should be easy to find.
Can you separate the two chrome plated parts by bending the six lugs straight, so that the inside becomes visible?
There are serious attempts to build prototype metal forming tools/dies with simple FDM printers, but deep drawing I have to see yet. It would be nice to not only having parts that look like the original, but also being as similar as possible.
Here's a clip to show how simpler geometries are created into sheet metal with press and FDM-printed dies: https://youtu.be/4nVLj9px_tk
I would not say it's impossible, but deep drawing the shapes shown in your pictures might need a lot more force than the dimples because the metal has to be forced to flow, especially into the 12 beads.
Starting and experimenting with 0.5mm aluminium, and then carefully high gloss polishing it might lead to acceptable results.
I'm also interested in other opinions.
Bodo said:
john2443 said:
...
Are there 3DP materials than are
- strong enough to have a 5/16 BSF screw embedded/tapped into so they can be screwed into the hubs.
- can be chrome plated.
...
3d printing metals is state of the art, but at the same time very expensive and may only be chrome plated with considerable effort and further manual steps.Are there 3DP materials than are
- strong enough to have a 5/16 BSF screw embedded/tapped into so they can be screwed into the hubs.
- can be chrome plated.
...
Printing them in ABS, creating a smooth outer surface with acetone steam and then painting them with chrome effect spray might give a similar look, but IMO not parts that might be used on a car that is actually driven.
john2443 said:
Are we looking at two deep drawn sheet metal (steel) parts that are chrome plated?The screw/thread looks like it is fixed by a cage and four pop rivets; the embossed chrome cap seems to have six lugs at the bottom to connect both chrome plated parts. Your BOM is certainly longer than two items, where the pop rivets should be easy to find.
Can you separate the two chrome plated parts by bending the six lugs straight, so that the inside becomes visible?
There are serious attempts to build prototype metal forming tools/dies with simple FDM printers, but deep drawing I have to see yet. It would be nice to not only having parts that look like the original, but also being as similar as possible.
Here's a clip to show how simpler geometries are created into sheet metal with press and FDM-printed dies: https://youtu.be/4nVLj9px_tk
I would not say it's impossible, but deep drawing the shapes shown in your pictures might need a lot more force than the dimples because the metal has to be forced to flow, especially into the 12 beads.
Starting and experimenting with 0.5mm aluminium, and then carefully high gloss polishing it might lead to acceptable results.
I'm also interested in other opinions.
How do people prototype stuff? CAD is not my strong suit, although I'm improving all the time.
I've put a larger nozzle on, and lowered some settings, but sometimes it's still a couple of hours before I realise I've made a mistake.
An additional and/or faster machine might be good especially when building multiple parts but think the wife's response would be two worded, with one of the words being "off".
Is it carboard, or clay, or something else? Or just live with it and print overnight and deal with the crap in the morning?
Also sidebar question. I've got a desktop CNC machine, nothing very powerful. Wonder if printing more solid blocks and then CNC out holes etc would be quicker? Anyone do that? For example at the minute I'm designing and printing a housing for a custom ring style door bell. The front panel has 4 holes for the camera, IR LED and a button. The camera holes have recesses to take perspex disks. All that, with support seems to add time. Wondering if I should print solid then CNC the holes out.
I've put a larger nozzle on, and lowered some settings, but sometimes it's still a couple of hours before I realise I've made a mistake.
An additional and/or faster machine might be good especially when building multiple parts but think the wife's response would be two worded, with one of the words being "off".
Is it carboard, or clay, or something else? Or just live with it and print overnight and deal with the crap in the morning?
Also sidebar question. I've got a desktop CNC machine, nothing very powerful. Wonder if printing more solid blocks and then CNC out holes etc would be quicker? Anyone do that? For example at the minute I'm designing and printing a housing for a custom ring style door bell. The front panel has 4 holes for the camera, IR LED and a button. The camera holes have recesses to take perspex disks. All that, with support seems to add time. Wondering if I should print solid then CNC the holes out.
Printing solid will take an eternity. Not sure how well it would machine either.
I've not done a huge amount of self designed work but I usually adjust the slicer settings, lower infill typically, Print at a lower resolution, less walls/smoothing etc. It never shaves that much time off though. I've also stopped prints early if they have got the the point I want to check the fit/everything marries up.
Otherwise it's a case of waiting.
I've not done a huge amount of self designed work but I usually adjust the slicer settings, lower infill typically, Print at a lower resolution, less walls/smoothing etc. It never shaves that much time off though. I've also stopped prints early if they have got the the point I want to check the fit/everything marries up.
Otherwise it's a case of waiting.
Scabutz said:
My Creality Ender 3 V2 has started printing just crap. Using the same settings I always have, edges are jagged, parts wont stick. Just getting really bad results.
I've levelled the plate, and checked and double checked, cleaned the plate. What else should I try?
Is your hot end on the Fritz? (Just changed mine after a couple of years use and printing like new again on a cr-10s)I've levelled the plate, and checked and double checked, cleaned the plate. What else should I try?
Clogged nozzle?
Extruder gear grooves full of PLA?
Paddymcc said:
Scabutz said:
My Creality Ender 3 V2 has started printing just crap. Using the same settings I always have, edges are jagged, parts wont stick. Just getting really bad results.
I've levelled the plate, and checked and double checked, cleaned the plate. What else should I try?
Is your hot end on the Fritz? (Just changed mine after a couple of years use and printing like new again on a cr-10s)I've levelled the plate, and checked and double checked, cleaned the plate. What else should I try?
Clogged nozzle?
Extruder gear grooves full of PLA?
I'll start with a good clean and see what happens.
Bullett said:
Show us a picture of the dodgy print.
Filament that has absorbed some moisture is another possibility.
I binned them in disgust. I ran some cleaning filament though and changed the nozzle.Filament that has absorbed some moisture is another possibility.
I've got some other odd problems now. Nothing is sticking to the plate. I was used PETG. I tried PLA and that was even worse. The PETG has been opened for a while so maybe moisture is problem.
When printing its missing patches of infil, but the bigger problem is the piece is lifting off the bed after about an hour.
I'm using the same method and temps as before. Using 3d printer glue. Could it be a problem with the plate? I've wiped it with water. Does it need a deeper clean maybe?
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